BULLSH** POLARIS (ELECTRIC RELAYS IN HARNESS GO BAD FROM WATER INTRUSION)

[matchrocket]

Sled wouldn't stay running at all yesterday morning at the trail head on first startup (again...), display wouldn't turn on either. Took about 5m before it would idle normal and at the same time, the display turned on. Ran fine all day..

Pulled all three of the relays today... They were all severely corroded @ 260 miles on the sled.

Cleaned all the poles up, cleaned the connectors. Loaded them up with DI Grease then wrapped them with electrical tape and re-positioned ALL THREE in the UP position.

I still can't believe they were facing down before so water could pool in the connectors....

I hope my idle/display issues are gone now.

 

[gassit]

Im new to posting here but I have been doing alot of reading on these relays. I have a 16 axys hold over and a bd sidekick. been chasing eletrical problems all over. I have done the grease in the relays and the dash blinks, the trottle goes from no idle to a high idle like 2800 and slowly comes down. wont go into reverse and than 3 miles later it will idle normal and go into reverse as normal. I have relocated the relays. contacted three dealers and thay stated they havent had the issues. One stated it could be a bad cluster ( Guages ). now to top it off I lost the mag cylinder saterday.

the question is would the relays or tps make it run lean to burn it down. Pretty frustrated with this sled. but when it runs its crazy fun.

I have alot of questions on this sled but dont want to chase ten different threads. sorry

 

[mountainhorse]

quick question ... I don't have an AXYS harness handy..

Are the contacts in the relay connector bare brass or tin-plated brass?


.

 

[AndrettiDog]

I bought some of the S-R1 (non-sealed) relays today to get me by and to troubleshoot my problems. I figure I can spend some time sealing them up myself.

I'm curious what people are doing with dielectric grease. I'm no electrical guru by any means, but my understanding of dielectric grease is that it is an insulator (not a conductor). So it is used to keep spark arc from occurring (such as in spark plugs). I know it useful when used correctly to keep water away from the contact. How are you guys using and applying the grease?

 

[bailer]

I bought some of the S-R1 (non-sealed) relays today to get me by and to troubleshoot my problems. I figure I can spend some time sealing them up myself.

I'm curious what people are doing with dielectric grease. I'm no electrical guru by any means, but my understanding of dielectric grease is that it is an insulator (not a conductor). So it is used to keep spark arc from occurring (such as in spark plugs). I know it useful when used correctly to keep water away from the contact. How are you guys using and applying the grease?

I always just fill the female portion with a squeeze. I have used it on automotive and ag equip for 20yrs and never have had any trouble doing this and it has definitely solved and prevented many problems!

https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/81150.pdf

 

[LoudHandle]

Di-electric grease is Non-Conductive, therefore an Insulator!

I always just fill the female portion with a squeeze. I have used it on automotive and ag equip for 20yrs and never have had any trouble doing this and it has definitely solved and prevented many problems!

https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/81150.pdf

I thought it prudent to throw this statement out there; Di-electric grease is Non-Conductive, therefore an Insulator!
Using it as described above is okay on some types of connectors that have enough memory to retain their shape and push / scrape the grease out of the way where they actually are designed to contact.

If not? You essentially are floating the connector and making the issue you are attempting to fix worse. TPS connector being one prime example.

All connectors are not created equal and one should use some thought and good judgement as to where Di-electric grease is indeed suitable.

 

[Rick!]

I thought it prudent to throw this statement out there; Di-electric grease is Non-Conductive, therefore an Insulator!
Using it as described above is okay on some types of connectors that have enough memory to retain their shape and push / scrape the grease out of the way where they actually are designed to contact.

If not? You essentially are floating the connector and making the issue you are attempting to fix worse. TPS connector being one prime example.

All connectors are not created equal and one should use some thought and good judgement as to where Di-electric grease is indeed suitable.

Correct!
Nyogel used to be the factory favorite but I can't recall which flavor. It should be listed in a service manual.

 

[Motorbreath_]

Do you guys think water is getting inside of the sealed relays? I don't believe that is the problem... although I could be wrong.

 

[RDrangstveit]

Has anyone experienced there sled not starting due to a failed relay? I noticed that my high beams would not turn on during my last ride. The sled would hardly move then it would cut out and die. Then randomly it just starting running. Now my sled won't start at all. I have fuel and spark, checked everything.
Just curious if this could be related to a relay. Getting very frustrated. Sled has 100miles on it and I have a 6k dollar BD turbo kit that I can't even get installed until this is resolved. 2016 Axys

 

[spencer]

My sled has been in the shop for a week with an electrical issue. I put dielectric grease on all the fittings I could find from day one. 1700 miles in I started having issues. If I pin it WFO for a few seconds the dash display starts flickering violently and the motor goes from 8,300 RPM into some sort of limp mode that only lets if max out around 7,300 RPM. The relay contact points all look good and still have the dielectric grease in place.

Questions...
1- What does this "Load Shed Relay" do from MH's post above??
2- I see the two relays on the cross bar above the Y pipe, where is the 3rd relay?
3- Can relays like these go bad even if the contacts aren't corroded, and look good?

Thanks guys...

Mine does the same, except I don't see the codes, Guess I need to read on to see if you fixed it.

 

[AndrettiDog]

This relay thing can be a serious issue! My sled was bogging out and on the last ride the gauge wouldn't come on. Eventually it did. But the really scary part is that my check engine light (top left yellow light) was flickering off and on. So, just to check, I pulled my plugs. One side was leaner than the other. Too lean for my comfort. I think the oil pump might have not been running when that particular relay was not working. It seemed to dry out and then everything was fine. I have relays on the way!

 

[cdebodt44]

For the GPS model I ziptied to the holder which is near where you did yours. Also greased and sealed with some special tape.

Would you be able to post a picture of where you mounted yours? I had this issue on a recent trip. Sled would only pull 7000rpm and was throwing a code for the exhaust valves. Also how is everyone applying their dielectric grease?

 

[beamslayer]

I looked at mine yesterday at least the 2 that I found , no corrosion and they have the S in the part # . So my question is did some get the right relays and others not , does it have anything to do with build date Mine is a 2016 163 and I moved and taped mine up the first day I owned it .

 

[Prayn4snow]

This relay thing can be a serious issue! My sled was bogging out and on the last ride the gauge wouldn't come on. Eventually it did. But the really scary part is that my check engine light (top left yellow light) was flickering off and on. So, just to check, I pulled my plugs. One side was leaner than the other. Too lean for my comfort. I think the oil pump might have not been running when that particular relay was not working. It seemed to dry out and then everything was fine. I have relays on the way!

I think it can be a serious issue as well. I checked mine again today. Ive cleaned them once and after just a couple rides they are corroded again. I ordered 10 also but they are on back order until April the email said! So, for now this time I'm cleaning them up with a stainless steel brush and some CRC QD electronic cleaner. It says "cleans and protects with no residue". I hope it works, going out west tomorrow.

 

[RMKillR]

Would there be an issue if you completely taped the the two relays up, wires and back side of plug?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[calltrex]

Both the numbers that CO 2.0 posted are available through Mouser, inexpensively. (thank you CO 2.0 for posting that info)

They are electrically the same... the difference is one is sealed and the other is not


871-1C-C-R1 U01 (871=type, 1C=SPDT, C='flux tight', R1=resistor on coil, U01=??)
$3.12ea http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Song-Chuan/871-1C-C-R1-U01-12VDC/

871-1C-S-R1 (871=type, 1C=SPDT, C=sealed, R1=resistor on coil)
$2.61ea http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=871-1C-S-R1-12VDC

A 'Flux Tight' relay... is NOT a sealed relay... not sure I'd leave that one in there.

Anyone else have the 871-1C-C-R1 U01 in their sled??
Anyone with a failed relay have this 871-1C-C-R1 U01 (which is not sealed) as the failed relay?

TYCO

so which one you guys all ordering?

 

[Merlin]

I don't own an AXYS but if I was forced to run the open, non-sealed style of connectors used on these relays I'd be cleaning them several times throughout the season with electrical contact cleaner & then soaking them thoroughly with Corrosion Block. The light & oily consistency of Corrosion Block will allow it to cover the entire surface of the wiring terminals as well as permeating the wiring in the crimps.

Used this stuff for many years in mobile equipment applications on just about every type of electrical connector out there with success. FYI, it's good stuff but it does not last forever and has to be reapplied regularly depending on how much exposure to water it sees.

If warranty wasn't a concern, the OEM connectors & relays should be sitting in the bottom of a trash can. Sealed / weather proof style, like M.H. posted earlier, would be the answer.

 

[mountainhorse]

By the looks of it... Polaris is using bare brass terminals in the connector housings.... kind of dissappointing that if the HAD to use an open (non sealed) connector base... that they did not specify the fraction of a cent more for tin plated connectors.... don't get me wrong... I think, for this kind of application, to be using a non sealed CONNECTOR (not just sealed relay) is irresponsible to the purposeful, robust, dependable, durable design that I'm sure that the engineers in Roseau are shooting for !!


.

 

[cdebodt44]

Pulled my relays going to my exhaust valves on my 17' as I was getting a code for my exhaust valves. looks like Polaris used quite a large amount of grease on them this year. One of them had a very small amount of corrosion around the base but otherwise minimal. I'm going to relocate them under the air box as some have stated already. Does the liquid electric tape act as an insulator like the dielectric grease does as well? Was thinking about applying some of that too.

 

[AndrettiDog]

I've read through this topic again and I still don't think anyone has answered where the relays are. It sounds to me like there are three for the non electric start sleds. Two in plane view behind the pipe tied to the over structure. Supposedly another in the velcro bag above the clutches but I haven't found it yet.

Then...there seems to be two for the electric start sleds? yes/no?

The only relay that has been identified is the shed relay which is in the velcro bag. I'd like to know which one is tied to the oil pump. I think that one started to fail for me.