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Break in

The best part about the article from mototuneusa is the part about the warming up your motor thoroughly.

This is something that MOST sledders don't do.

It is best to warm it up before you leave to ride... let the heat soak the engine... this is where the crank and case get to similar temps... remember that the case on the polaris, other than the water pump cavity, is not cooled.

Then at the hill, take it easy for the first mile and let the motor/crank/pistons reach temp so that they are at the same size as when the engine was built... so that bearing fit/crush is consistent.

Do the same after you stop for lunch.

Your engine will be much happier.
 
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part numbers for heavy springs?

[If you are a heavy rider... I'd say over 250 lbs... you should probably buy the heavy springs for this sled. ]


Any idea of the part number for these heavier springs? Thanks
 
[If you are a heavy rider... I'd say over 250 lbs... you should probably buy the heavy springs for this sled. ]



Any idea of the part number for these heavier springs? Thanks

I have a lot of excess muscle as well and would appreciate that part number.
 
Thank you guys for all the useful info

Wow this is some really good information. Thank you everyone who contributed.
 
break in time

was wondering if there is a break in time on the new pros or is all this a myth some say there is some say no and if there is how many miles or hours is it
 
was wondering if there is a break in time on the new pros or is all this a myth some say there is some say no and if there is how many miles or hours is it

Dealer told me for first 3 hrs the chip is programmed for max 7600rpm, after 3 hrs it's good to go!
 
i heat soak mine several times in the shop before i even take it out, then ride the first tank on/off throttle as much as possible. would stop every few miles the first ride and pull the side covers and take a look at the motor and look for any problems. they say no full throttle for the first tank but i think after about half a tank pull it to the bars for a short blast or 2 to make sure everything works at full power. after the first tank just ride it. have been breaking in 2 strokes this way for about 35 years and never had a problem, it works for me...
 
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Does the motoman info on break in apply to two strokes?

Certainly has for me - I go out to an alpine lake or steep straight and run pull after pull at WOT from the get-go for the first 20 miles. I'll stop if I feel the hifax sticking and pull over in pow to sinter them. Loading the motor at WOT isn't going to hurt them - they're programmed rich for break-in anyway. I also don't run the extra oil in the tank. The ONLY reason for that is so Poo can cover their butts when the lame dealers don't make certain there are no air bubbles in the oil lines on initial set-up (I make SURE there are none). My sleds are always among the fastest when comparing to equally set-up sleds.

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
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was wondering if there is a break in time on the new pros or is all this a myth some say there is some say no and if there is how many miles or hours is it

Im not sure how long it is, my SB Assault really woke up last year at the 8hr mark. an Instant 150RPM, was running 8200, then 8350 the rest of the day. Its was noticable. jme

My uncle worked in the Polaris Performance Dept for years. He always told us to break them in how we were going to ride them, break them in hard. so i do. never had an issue and sleds always pull hard. I'll run the premix though for the first tank.
 
Sort of related to this topic....

Does Polaris have a break-in hour meter, or chip, for their 4-stroke ATVs also?
A couple of new and just recently new Polaris 850s that I know of seem to run rough and pop when going in and out of the throttle at low R's or letting off on a down hill coast, or coasting down hill and getting into the throttle.
 
TTT

Relevant discussion this time of year.

The part that gets me from the above mentioned article is...

Although the examples shown here are motorcycle engines,
these principles apply to all 4 stroke engines:

Motoman's presentation IS solid with lots of background and critical thought.

I just don't want to find myself simply believing or dis-beliving this presentation, simply because it is "on the internet".

Our RMK engines have already been run at the factory for about a minute, not on a dyno, they do "pin it" but do not put a load on it.

How the ECU limits the first hours of operation may play a part in this as well.



I've got to admit it... this presentation holds a lot of water and I may just have to.....
eatcrow.jpg










.
 
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Here is my .02 and what works for me

1)ALWAYS use a mineral based oil, not just for break in, but Always!! Little more details located http://www.2strokeheads.com/OIL-TECH.htm

2)Always run MORE oil over less. This is one of the main reasons why engines fail or get damaged on snowmobiles.. CRANK THE OIL UP!! Get your ratio to around 30:1 and enjoy a better running and longer lasting engine.

3)After the 1st 5-10 miles of on/off throttle running. Get some good HARD pulls in and seat the rings.. After a few hard pulls.. ride it like normal

4) Do NOT heat cycle your engine in the garage at all. This is simply a bad idea because the rings faces are new and MUST form to the cylinder walls in the manner that they will be used. Ring seal is critical!! How well the rings mate to the cylinder wall is directly related to how well they seal and this is directly related to power output.
In general, engines that are "gently" broken in are engines that are also more "gentle" in terms of HP output.. Of course, this work well for the manufacturers, less HP = less stress on the engine = less potential for failure...
 
Brand new to Polaris. Just talked to the dealer I purchased from and he told me for break-in to:
-Ride 100 miles varying throttle with no full throttle
-1st tank mix oil as said above; 2nd tank to mix half the oil in
-Break in "chip" will cease and allow full operation after 8hours of riding

Again, being new to Polaris, do I need to ride it on the trail to take it easy for 100 miles? Thinking of riding the trails for 30 miles or so for the belt, then head off the trail all while taking it easy and not pushing it hard. Any thoughts on this?

*I do not have the sled (owners manual) yet*
 
I broke in 4 sleds per motoman's method. All run strong but I think the true test is the test of time and there are so many variables it would be very hard to know if that was the right method or not. Would love to put my sleds on a dyno and compare to the long slow break-in method.
 
Thank you Matte. Coming from skidoo that is what I was used to. I just Don't want to blow a motor or have a tragic accident because I did something dumb. I know most 2 strokes are the same but as we all know there are certain recommendations for some over others. Thanks again.
 
I have received some PMs about break in. I think you can do it ANY WAY and you will be OK. Long and slow, motoman, something in between and your sled will run fine. I think the motoman method is worth some horsepower and isn't causing any harm so that's what I did and it worked great on 4 sleds. I think seating the rings is the most important part of break in. This is not brand specific either.
 
I am gonna chime in here...last year I bought a 2011 pro rmk 163..as did two good friends..in fact one friend bought his from the same dealer and in fact they are consecutive serial numbers..about as equal as you will ever get off an assembly line..both friends broke theirs in differently then I did mine..one rides pretty hard..but keeps the throttle moving and tries not to be abusive...the other..broke his in by a nice long trail ride..never going over 1/2 throttle for the first 30 miles...me..well I checked mine over in the shop..made sure everything looked good, washed the belts and clutches..checked alignment, belt deflection and all that stuff..topped off the chaincase since it was a touch low..checked track tension...got the track in the air and preceded to hot cylce it by firing it up and keeping the rpms constantly moving up and down till the temp guage hit 150 ..shut it off and let it cool ..next nite repeated the same in the air run...next weekend..took it out to a local riding area..fired it up unloaded it off the trailer and let it run till it hit 120 ..shut it off got dressed and refired it..let it warm back up to 120 and took off..I constantly varied the throttle/rpms for the first 30 miles and always have the temp guage displayed......and that includes hitting full throttle repeatedly but instantly getting off it too..as each mile elapsed I would extend the time it was full throttle by a sec or so...at the end of the first 5 miles i stopped and opened both sides and looked for leaks, melting, hot clutches...anythiing abnormal..let cool for 10-15 minutes..then rewarm it up to 120 and off again..this was repeated again at the 15 and 25 mile marks...by the end of 30 miles I would hold it wide open on climbs for 1-2 full minutes at a time...oddly both of my buddies sleds just dont seem to run quite as good as mine does.....neither will pull 68 gram weights at2500 feet with stock clutching(both run 66;s to get 8000-8100), neither pulls as hard either..I contribute that to the difference in break in...I think running them hard without being abusive(constant one throttle position/running too hot, running constant full throttle or idle)is very important to a good running motor..and if done right I think it shows for the life of the motor...I know first ride this season..sled ran just flawless..2500 ft + elevations..68 gram mtx's with 2 grams in the belly 1 gram in the tips....turning 8100 rpm...44 to 49 mph trackspeed in good deep snow and just super crisp....hope this helps someone...
 
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