Break in
- Thread starter turbonium
- Start date
WFO isn't that why they offer a 4 year warrenty!
Hey some people have no sense of humor. I got a bad rating for my wfo comment on this tread after I even put a wink behind it. But i also believe you break them in like you are going to ride them.
The new Pro Ride manual suggests that you never keep the RPM's at a constant spot (keep revving) and that you add oil to the fuel in small amounts (5 gal I think).
READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL....SHEESH.
Proper break in will set the stage for long life and minimal troubles.
Taking care of your fuel system, how you fuel and what you put in is important.
Use the right oil, do the maint (I like to check all belt and track adjustment before the 1st ride.. and before the 2nd as well ... keep an eye on the track tension and belt deflection for the first 150 miles IMO.
Setting the belt deflection is an owners responsibility.
You should also check the belt side clearance before you pick up your sled... that is something that is critical to the performance and longevity of your clutches/belts and this is only done by the dealer (or some one who has a lot of $$ in tools the the knowledge on how to use them)
These are things that not only affect longevity but also the performance of your sled.
Take the time to break in the belt... as has ALWAYS been required... even more so with the new belts costing $180 each.
Read the Owners manual FRONT TO BACK...There is enough new stuff on this sled to keep you learning for a while.
The suspension is very adjustable...and you will notice big differences in handling if you take the time to learn how to adjust it... much different than your previous model years.
If you are a heavy rider... I'd say over 250 lbs... you should probably buy the heavy springs for this sled.
Good luck
Proper break in will set the stage for long life and minimal troubles.
Taking care of your fuel system, how you fuel and what you put in is important.
Use the right oil, do the maint (I like to check all belt and track adjustment before the 1st ride.. and before the 2nd as well ... keep an eye on the track tension and belt deflection for the first 150 miles IMO.
Setting the belt deflection is an owners responsibility.
You should also check the belt side clearance before you pick up your sled... that is something that is critical to the performance and longevity of your clutches/belts and this is only done by the dealer (or some one who has a lot of $$ in tools the the knowledge on how to use them)
These are things that not only affect longevity but also the performance of your sled.
Take the time to break in the belt... as has ALWAYS been required... even more so with the new belts costing $180 each.
Read the Owners manual FRONT TO BACK...There is enough new stuff on this sled to keep you learning for a while.
The suspension is very adjustable...and you will notice big differences in handling if you take the time to learn how to adjust it... much different than your previous model years.
If you are a heavy rider... I'd say over 250 lbs... you should probably buy the heavy springs for this sled.
Good luck
For filling... even/especially from the pump...Use one of these to keep as much water out of your tank as possible.
Use it at the pump and when fueling from cans... make sure that you keep your on-sled can clean and use this to fill it.... be extra careful when fueling in the field so that you don't get snow/water in the tank during the transfer.
http://www.outerwearsracing.com/proddetail.asp?prod=11022
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R
Ron
ACCOUNT CLOSED
I'll try the "other view" on break-in even though it may not be popular. There is a lot of good independent info on the web, Google "break-in 2 cycle engine". You can do a lot of damage to the engine if it gets too hot during initial break-in. Premature wear may not result in failure.
It's generally agreed that you should seat the rings with some hard acceleration for short bursts. The moving parts and bearings (crank, connecting rod and wrist pin), pistons, cyclinder walls, etc all need some time to settle in to mate with each other. Even though tolerances are much better than they used to be...you still need to be careful that you keep the engine heat down for a while.
I heat soak my engine 3 times in my garage before hitting the snow. The first ride I avoid climbing, look for a trail ride with low rolling resistance, and stop frequently the first 50 miles to let the engine cool. I pack snow on the jugs when I stop to speed cooling. During the first 100 miles I avoid constant R's and pin the throttle for speed bursts up to 50-60 MPH.
Overkill????? Maybe but it doesn't take much effort and around here it's a good idea to stay on the trail until we get some deeper snow anyway. It's an expensive piece of equipment why not use some care during break-in?
It's generally agreed that you should seat the rings with some hard acceleration for short bursts. The moving parts and bearings (crank, connecting rod and wrist pin), pistons, cyclinder walls, etc all need some time to settle in to mate with each other. Even though tolerances are much better than they used to be...you still need to be careful that you keep the engine heat down for a while.
I heat soak my engine 3 times in my garage before hitting the snow. The first ride I avoid climbing, look for a trail ride with low rolling resistance, and stop frequently the first 50 miles to let the engine cool. I pack snow on the jugs when I stop to speed cooling. During the first 100 miles I avoid constant R's and pin the throttle for speed bursts up to 50-60 MPH.
Overkill????? Maybe but it doesn't take much effort and around here it's a good idea to stay on the trail until we get some deeper snow anyway. It's an expensive piece of equipment why not use some care during break-in?
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Also,
After your first ride...after the clutch has fully seated on the taper... you should break the clutch bolt loose and re-torque it to the factory 80 ft/lbs rating
IMO
Before the first ride ... remove the belt (paying attention to the printing on belt and the direction it was installed.. make a not of it) and wash it with a stiff scrub brush, super hot water and dish soap... rinse really well and let it dry overnight.. This removes any belt mold release residue and manufacturing "swarf" when the belt was ground to size
Clean the clutch faces with acetone and clean white rags till you dont get any residue on them.
Re install the belt and adjust the deflection.
After your first ride...after the clutch has fully seated on the taper... you should break the clutch bolt loose and re-torque it to the factory 80 ft/lbs rating
IMO
Before the first ride ... remove the belt (paying attention to the printing on belt and the direction it was installed.. make a not of it) and wash it with a stiff scrub brush, super hot water and dish soap... rinse really well and let it dry overnight.. This removes any belt mold release residue and manufacturing "swarf" when the belt was ground to size
Clean the clutch faces with acetone and clean white rags till you dont get any residue on them.
Re install the belt and adjust the deflection.
T
theshadowrider
Well-known member
5 gal seems like a lot of oil to add......................Kidding!
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Funny 
I hope you are kidding. If not, I was referring to the amount of fuel to put in the tank (so as not to dilute the entire fuel capacity).
G
gman086
Well-known member
Your friend isn't the sharpest tool in the drawer is he??
Unfortunately... old myths (the lame "manufacturer covering their butts" manual method) die hard. The '70's called and they want their break in procedure back!
I subscribe to this train of thought and have been very successful with it:http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Have FUN!
G MAN
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This were at 2000feet-600meters.
1feet of wet heavy snow.
we like the 11 series.
This was 11-66 Weights- all other stock.
BTW.MH this guy rides his sled this way no matter of condition....
G MAN.... I've read that one before... nice theory...lots of arguments for and against...
There are lots of opinions on this topic.
AND big differences between 2 and 4 cycle engines and how they operate.
There is a reason for the warning at the top of his page.
That is because it is.
HMMM...
Reading this entire article and assuming that it applies to high output 2 stroke motors may be a bad idea.
Is there any info on that site that talks specifically about 2-stroke, ported engines?
Take it for what you will.
We do agree on something...
Enjoy your sled!!
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