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Best Fix kit for 2013 Pro???

MikeMetzger

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Seems to be a lot of kits out there and Im curious which one has worked the best for people? If I do the fix kit, should I also just do new jugs and high compression head?
 
Don't bother with a "fix kit". Go with RK Tek pistons and call it a day. Ran them in my '11 for 3 years and 3000 hard miles. As long as your cylinder skirts are in good shape, leave the jugs alone.
 
Personally, thought the 11' and 12' had the most issues. I have a 13' and just did an Mtn. Tek. kit but I had no issues prior to installing...unlike my 11' which had all the issues.
 
I guess I won't really know until I pull the jugs and check them. Im at just over 2000 miles with mine and torn on the idea of either fixing it now, or riding one more season.....
 
Personally I think spending a few hundred on pistons (even stockers) is cheap insurance, we do push these machines to their limit!
 
I installed Bikeman's Kit and Head on my 2011, and have had no issues, it runs awesome!! Did it last season @2000 miles, now has 3000 miles and it runs strong.
 
Maybe its as simple as extra fuel and oil on stock components... I know my stock pistons weren't that bad after 1300 miles and my cylinders measured exactly what they should (13 Pro).

With that being said I couldn't be happier with my RKT DI kit.
 
RKT DI 14.1 head for me. Very happy with it. Installed from new. Not going to say you have to get this, different strokes for different folks. Works for me. Do whatever kit you want, anything is better than leaving it IMO.
 
I installed a RKT DI kit 2 years ago in my 11 assault. Swapped that to my 12 assault. Worked real good in both sleds.
Now updating to his rev 2 kit in my 12.

Going back over the directions I see one of the steps is to check the ring end gap to 18-20 thou....I haven't done this on any of the installs, have you guys been checking the gap before installation?
 
I installed a RKT DI kit 2 years ago in my 11 assault. Swapped that to my 12 assault. Worked real good in both sleds.
Now updating to his rev 2 kit in my 12.

Going back over the directions I see one of the steps is to check the ring end gap to 18-20 thou....I haven't done this on any of the installs, have you guys been checking the gap before installation?

Uhhhhh.......
If you dont have enough ring end gap. Squuueeaakkkk!
 
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I installed a RKT DI kit 2 years ago in my 11 assault. Swapped that to my 12 assault. Worked real good in both sleds.
Now updating to his rev 2 kit in my 12.

Going back over the directions I see one of the steps is to check the ring end gap to 18-20 thou....I haven't done this on any of the installs, have you guys been checking the gap before installation?

YES!!! Mine were way too tight (15thouish) last year and I believe there was a few with issues on here last year that didn't check em.
 
So what is the recommended gaps? I am about to put new pistons/rings in a 910, manufacturer says .004/inch of bore which puts me at .015 for top ring. I was thinking .020 would be more what people are going for?
 
Seems to be a lot of kits out there and Im curious which one has worked the best for people? If I do the fix kit, should I also just do new jugs and high compression head?

I run Wossner pistons but quite frankly they're no better than any other if they don't fit the hole they are installed in.

It doesn't matter whether you have Wossner, Wiseco, OEM, etc., if the cylinders are not properly sized to the pistons or if the bores happen to be out of round or have excessive taper, nothing will last.

So the best advice would be, regardless of whose kit you choose, the clearances must be properly blueprinted during assy. If you cannot do this, have a machine shop do it for you. If the clearances are not within spec. of the piston manufacturers recommendations, the cylinder block will need to be sent out for repair to a reputable shop that performs replating as one of it's main services.

The 800 CFI cylinder skirt will not tolerate excessive piston to cylinder wall clearance for any length of time.


That has been proven.
 
So what is the recommended gaps? I am about to put new pistons/rings in a 910, manufacturer says .004/inch of bore which puts me at .015 for top ring. I was thinking .020 would be more what people are going for?

.018-.020 ring end gap for a stock bore 800.

Polaris port timing is good 80% of the time great 10%, mediocre 10% of the time.

Lowered port timing is great 20% of the time and good 40% then mediocre 40%.

Some die hard fans claim its better in every situation but they are fooling themselves.

Lowered port timing has been mediocre at best in ak.
From the few sleds i have seen and heard of running around here.

You couldn't pay me to run one of those DI kits.

Just my experience.

Snake oil and excuses.
 
ring gap

All rings gapped out at .016" so filed them to spec at .018-.020.
I had only idled the machine for about 2 min so should be ok.

Only 2.5 hours to completely tear down, gap rings and change fuel filter...I've had this motor apart too many times:face-icon-small-dis
 
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