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another shaft failure

Sad fact just like cats belt issue you wont here about anything from the manufacturer until they have a fix, nothing looks worse then "yup its got an issue, but we don't know how to fix it!!!"

Givem time, they will fix it just like they did there motors, muahahhaa jk

Had to put a lil jab, but seriously if you can afford a turbo you can afford a couple hundred dollar upgraded drive shaft!!

The dealer wont say anything till they have a fix manufactured and ready to ship.

Be patient.

There is a big difference between a hand built prototype and a mass produced sled...

-Aksnopro
 
This machine like all other production machines without a turbo, was not designed at the drawing board to have a turbo .

It is the lightest machine buildt out there right now and there had to be some sacrafices made to get it there .

The drivetrain can't handle a turbo

It's jackshaft is a two piece .

The belt does not have constant tension .

And you've seen what can happen to the driveshaft .

Explains why the Assault has none of this .

The aftermarket boys and girls have their work cut out on this one , this one best be left alone , for blinging only , or just by yourself a CMX and by pass all of it .

It's also a plug for Polaris if you read between the lines .
 
Just wondering if this would work take the shaft out before it brakes and get it welded

The shafts are aluminum with steel end caps.:face-icon-small-win

I did read an article however where Honda has figured out how to weld the two metals together in some kind of stir method.
 
seriously, not to be a dick in anyway, but that is the risk taken when adding mods that will knowingly void your warranty. i do the same thing on almost every sled i own and understand my risks. now with that said, if i was in your shoes and was in the process of installing a turbo i would be more concerned. and i would do two things; first i would check how hard the glue is coming out of the fill holes on your drive shaft. if it is soft, or flakes i would show your dealer and NOT ride it until taken care of. second, assuming the glue is hard i would still consider spending the money to replace the drive shaft with one from years past. or if possible, i'd probably try to hold off on the turbo install until i had ridden the thing for a few miles. the failures seem to be early on but that doesn't mean more can't or won't show up down the road. then if it fails, warranty. although you would still be stuck dragging the damn thing back to the truck...

pv

Likewise, I'm not trying to be argumentative nor, more importantly, detract from the thread...but in the context of my earlier response to you, I am saying that these types of threads pontificating on potential future issues, either quantified or not, give people like myself - whom are in the process of modifying our '13s - an idea as to what we might want to consider further modifying (drive shaft for example), to avoid what sounds like a high-probability breakage event that, in my situation, might result in a helicopter flyout...(Or in other peoples cases, DEATH and the resulting need for Polaris in the upringing of their children - apparently).

I for one dont have the luxury of a simple "ride'r her and see what happens" mentatility. Of course to a large degree, that is the nature of ALL riding, and thus why we pack sattelite phones and epirbs and ****e. But mainly because I ride out of bounds and in illegal riding areas! (OH MY GOD, lets over take the thread now and focus on THAT)...illegal because some LEFTY TWAT WITH STRAP-ON FANCY WALKING SKI THINGIES tells me that I am not allowed to go dent the snow in there anymore...because he wants to...

Um...yeah...so that's my bit
 
So now you have to put old parts in a new sled to be able to use it or put some aftermarket kit on the driveshaft just to get it to work. I can see why some people are freaking out. Hopefully Polaris recognizes this issue, if its an issue and fixes problem. I do not have a 13 but if i did i would be concerned also.(But wouldnt keep me from riding it). The thought of putting money into a brand new sled just so you can use it or adding parts from a 2005 or whatever seems off the wall to me. Just my opinion, and everyone know's that doesnt matter, just ask my wife! LOL. Hope in pans out for everyone. Good luck.

Yes, opinions are like a--holes, everyone has one.
 
The shafts are aluminum with steel end caps.:face-icon-small-win

I did read an article however where Honda has figured out how to weld the two metals together in some kind of stir method.

You could rivet a wide steel tab all the way round then weld her, Oh and add some superglue:face-icon-small-win
 
The shafts are aluminum with steel end caps.:face-icon-small-win

I did read an article however where Honda has figured out how to weld the two metals together in some kind of stir method.

US Navy has been welding steel and aluminum together for 35 years at least, use high pressure explosive to liquefy them and they blend together, one side of plate is steel and the other side is aluminum...True story


http://www.triplate.com/?pagina=triplate_solution
 
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I'm GUESSING; they failed to get the quick connect all the way seated on one part or the other of the two compound glue system, thus it never hardened. It is either all base or all hardener. It no work a so good a like that! The hand built shafts for the prototypes likely had well trained competent employees doing the work, proficient with what to be aware of and ensured as near perfection as possible. Then for production they automated it and put a couple minimum wage employees with minimal training and complete lack of give a **** to oversee it. Resulting in X number of sticky, half glued, never will cure, weak shafts. If and when they pushed the quick connect on the rest of the way, so that both parts were again flowing as intended the shafts will be nearly as good as the hand built ones. Just hope your's isn't sticky and soft or check it for some piece of mind.


Proto's are built by tool and die guys or engineers. Always. Thats why proto's have such a low failure rate. Once you put it into production and make jigs and robots to do the work your perfection rate drops substantially because just as you said you insert the human element into it. There is no truer statement in this life than this: You can teach most people anything but the one thing you cant teach someone is to care.
 
Can't believe I'm commenting on this thread:face-icon-small-sad

Sled build date is probably not the issue but rather the build date of the component in question--driveshaft. If there was a bad run-- the most likely explanation-- hopefully the driveshaft is dated so that those with affected shafts can get them replaced.


My Rant:
How many threads do we have going on this subject? How many comments from non Pro owners, comments from Polaris haters, comments from "experts" who heard from this guy, that that guy had a failure, and that guy heard another guy..... Where does it end?

Reading a post on the Internet is NOT the same as acquiring knowledge in the real world or having FIRST hand experience. Too many people on here with a desire to contribute when all they are doing is rehashing, re posting, or out right
plagiarizing something they read somewhere else. Also seems to be some new to the Polaris side posters who as fanning the flames of the Pro being a POS. I don't drink koolaid from any manufacturer, I just try and report MY findings, measurements, experiences. What are some of these posters trying to gain?--market share? Better resale on their AC, Doo, Yamaha? I don't know.

Forum mob mentality-- let's get em!

Did I read the other post correctly that the guy who sent a certified letter to Polaris didn't even experience a failure himself?

Rant over.


Get used to it--Cat owners dealt with it all year last year!!!:sorry::sorry:
 
US Navy has been welding steel and aluminum together for 35 years at least, use high pressure explosive to liquefy them and they blend together, one side of plate is steel and the other side is aluminum...True story


http://www.triplate.com/?pagina=triplate_solution

Not to get off topic but that is not a weld by definition and is a very inferior way to accomplish this. That process would never survive this application. However my late uncle's company Spur industries does accomplish this at the molecular level and their bonding process does indeed survive the stresses like this. They have used their inserts on steel drilling rig bits and aluminum drill pipe with their insert welded between the two. Lots of potential uses, google them if interested.
 
Not to get off topic but that is not a weld by definition and is a very inferior way to accomplish this. That process would never survive this application. However my late uncle's company Spur industries does accomplish this at the molecular level and their bonding process does indeed survive the stresses like this. They have used their inserts on steel drilling rig bits and aluminum drill pipe with their insert welded between the two. Lots of potential uses, google them if interested.

Didn't say it would work here, just saying it can be done
 
another possible temporary fix posted on snow and mud;

Well today i built some clamps to clamp over the driveshaft to strengthen around the area where its breaking. They can be installed on both sides, and while the shaft is on the sled, here are some pics. There available at Parkland Motorsports for $70. If the glue does fail this clamp will keep it together.

tysonclamp.jpg


tysonclamp2.jpg


tysonclamp1.jpg
 
hey guys i built the billet ones there and i figured balance would be no concern since if you ever look at a drive axel mid day of riding its full of snow and ice and there is no vibration problems unless you get huge ice build up so a few grams isn't going to make a difference
 
Gzzzz.the drivers in the original pictures don't even look like they have even touched a track....must not have been very many miles b/4 the grenade went off.
 
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