I am, he told me 68 and so that’s what I’m going to run?Then you should listen to Caleb and just run what we says ?
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I am, he told me 68 and so that’s what I’m going to run?Then you should listen to Caleb and just run what we says ?
If it were that simple to make slight adjustments in only 10min I think that makes sense.My experience, adjustable weights CAN BE… not always… alot of fugging around.
It seems like magnum forces typically have consistently good feedback.
Me I like to take 10 minutes and throw the correct 10 series in and ride.
Totally can see that.I really hate having to pull the clutch apart to change the magnets in weights. If I do adjustable weights, it’s only the ones you can easily adjust in a couple minutes, BD, SLP or CPC (dalton).
Not wrong about anything.If it were that simple to make slight adjustments in only 10min I think that makes sense.
But that also means having multiple weights with you. And in my case, my sled tools i carry are for "what ifs" and getting a broken sled off the trail. Light and minimal. My impacts and tools I rather use to swap out weights in a clutch out in the field, are at the shop. And 10min might be a bit quick at least for me.
You get 100rpm + or - for each SLP screw weight you add or remove. Very easy to hit proper RPM which I am looking for 8250 to 8300.
If I am hitting 8400 I add 1 screw weight to reach weight and nail it every time. And it "truly" only take 5min and all you need is 1 simple tool tool that comes with the kit and a handful of screw weight. They live in my vest pocket and make on mountain changes EXTREMELY simple.
It's not only for elevation changes it is also snow pack that makes a huge difference. Same elevation I run different weight combinations for winter soft snow than I do later season spring snow.
And in most cases you can guess in your garage what weights to be running in the place you plan on riding the next day. But I have learned you really can't dial it in and make it spot on until you are actually at the spot you are riding in the snow condition that is there that day.
These adjustable clutches have made the game easier in my opinion.
Interested in this setup and wondering about elevation and if this or similar would work for me. Ride mostly around 6500 to 7000 feet, fairly tight tree bashing and looking for something for my 22 850 khaos 165 that would make bottom and mid more rippy. Thx for the help. Was considering these weights in 61 base to 70 with capsules and guess I need a different primary spring? Dont really know much about clutching, my sled rips but interested if easy enough to gain performance.I just rode two days using the BD High Energy weights and a black/green primary spring on my 22 Matryx 165. Def noticed a difference in response low to mid range. Never made any long pulls only short blasts in the trees and it would hold at 8300rpm. Screws were easy to change on mountain.
No experience with any of the other adjustable weights
Call BD. I ended up needing 63 base and not the 61 I had gotten on FB. Basicically If you have QD2, 61 is too low of a base weight.Interested in this setup and wondering about elevation and if this or similar would work for me. Ride mostly around 6500 to 7000 feet, fairly tight tree bashing and looking for something for my 22 850 khaos 165 that would make bottom and mid more rippy. Thx for the help. Was considering these weights in 61 base to 70 with capsules and guess I need a different primary spring? Dont really know much about clutching, my sled rips but interested if easy enough to gain performance.
I ride 6000-8000’. This wkd rode in really dry bottomless 2-3’ in most places. When climbing in fresh snow I was hitting like 8500 and it would stay there so thinking I might get another set of capsules to try and bring it down a bitInterested in this setup and wondering about elevation and if this or similar would work for me. Ride mostly around 6500 to 7000 feet, fairly tight tree bashing and looking for something for my 22 850 khaos 165 that would make bottom and mid more rippy. Thx for the help. Was considering these weights in 61 base to 70 with capsules and guess I need a different primary spring? Dont really know much about clutching, my sled rips but interested if easy enough to gain performance.
What spring rate is the black/green (slp?) and capsules were you using? Pls.let me know how the changes go!I ride 6000-8000’. This wkd rode in really dry bottomless 2-3’ in most places. When climbing in fresh snow I was hitting like 8500 and it would stay there so thinking I might get another set of capsules to try and bring it down a bit
I have the same issue, i have noticed the most after coming down hill usually slowly picking way down through trees after a pull in deep snow. When i turn around and rip it to go back up i often hit that dead spot. I chalked it up to snow in exhaust tip, usually only happens 1 time until next pull... my remedy was to try and stay on the gas more on downs. Not sure if that is the culprit. Running slp can as fyi.
I spoke with BD and they suggested the lighter 59 base and with their capsule set to aiming for 8400 to 8650..seems high to me if peak power is 8025 or 8050?Call BD. I ended up needing 63 base and not the 61 I had gotten on FB. Basicically If you have QD2, 61 is too low of a base weight.
Anyone telling you peak power is at 8025-8050 wants to see your engine make it 10,000 miles. I would block them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.I spoke with BD and they suggested the lighter 59 base and with their capsule set to aiming for 8400 to 8650..seems high to me if peak power is 8025 or 8050?
If I want to wake up the bottom end and mid for better tree riding what should I do? Wasnt wanting to spend $500 on a whole kit, was hoping somd weights with different profile and maybe a spring would do it?
Where does Indy Specialty say the Target for the RPM is on the top end on his kit?
I haven’t set eyes on my kit yet.Where does Indy Specialty say the Target for the RPM is on the top end on his kit?