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Chris Burandt Clutch Kit for new Matryx 850 including helix, thoughts?

I wish someone would make a Big&Tall clutch kit. At 6'7 and running 250lbs, I have bought a few over the years pretty sure that they design them for the 5'10 buck fitty pound man. Friends will say how great theirs is or mine is at first and I get on and it's a different experience for me. I always have to change something slightly or just piece together my own through trial and error.
 
One thing for sure. Don't buy a clutch kit because the guy who is selling it is cool. Ride your sled and evaluate how it can be better. Different engagement, quicker or slower upshift, over/under revy feeling, bottom end grunt, loss of rpm as load increases, clutch heat etc. It is all about tuning to make it "act and react" the way you like. Some will like TRS clutching style and some will like the Burandt style. Not all will like it really smooth if it is sluggish down low and doesn't backshift well. Not all will like it snappy if it digs holes and trenches in the bottomless pow. I would never make a change to a sled until I find out what is wrong with it.
 
One thing for sure. Don't buy a clutch kit because the guy who is selling it is cool. Ride your sled and evaluate how it can be better. Different engagement, quicker or slower upshift, over/under revy feeling, bottom end grunt, loss of rpm as load increases, clutch heat etc. It is all about tuning to make it "act and react" the way you like. Some will like TRS clutching style and some will like the Burandt style. Not all will like it really smooth if it is sluggish down low and doesn't backshift well. Not all will like it snappy if it digs holes and trenches in the bottomless pow. I would never make a change to a sled until I find out what is wrong with it.
Amen. I definitely went out on a limb hoping that Chris did his homework and that the helix and spring weights that come in his kits were design to enhance performance. But I will say so far on my 22 Kaos Slash 165 that I really like the adjustable SLP Magnum Force clutch weights. I've been able to tune those on the fly to get the proper RPM and shift points. So much that I got another set and put them in my Axys.
 
I wish someone would make a Big&Tall clutch kit. At 6'7 and running 250lbs, I have bought a few over the years pretty sure that they design them for the 5'10 buck fitty pound man. Friends will say how great theirs is or mine is at first and I get on and it's a different experience for me. I always have to change something slightly or just piece together my own through trial and error.
One or two tooth gear down on top pulley will bring back some snappiness for you. You tall.
 
I wish someone would make a Big&Tall clutch kit. At 6'7 and running 250lbs, I have bought a few over the years pretty sure that they design them for the 5'10 buck fitty pound man. Friends will say how great theirs is or mine is at first and I get on and it's a different experience for me. I always have to change something slightly or just piece together my own through trial and error.
Im 6'8" and 240lbs. I have clutching that will work great for your rider weight. Check out Altitude Power Sports on Facebook and Instagram.
 
I have indyDan balance my clutches when new and always run a decent belt and factory clutching. I usually buy EPI belly Buster weights for the elevation I run the most and then for my elevation when out west. Once thing nice about riding deep U.P. of Michigan snow is we are at sea level so no performance loss. I really notice the power loss out west because we are typically at 10,000 plus feet. Usaully have to take around 10 grams out. I have drag raced my buddies sled which are indentical to mine but they have clutch kits and I always win. So it can't be too bad.
We’re the clutch kits from Speedwerx and Bikeman?
 
Save your money on clutch kits especially during these transitory times of fake inflation. Our resident forum experts have determined only the top 3% of riders will benefit from an improved clutch calibration and proper alignment. Are you a 3%er?
 
^ Absolutely spot on. Can you run a line up a steep, treed slope that'd have a big name rider gulping and crossing his fingers before he followed you? If not, then you'll never notice any difference from clutching or gearing your sled. Also, all this talk of alignment, belt life, clutch temps - it's a bunch of hens clucking. Just run what the FSM says and spend the money you save on extra OEM belts (will probably save enough to buy two!). If you think your belts aren't lasting long enough, you're getting RPM fade, or something else "isn't right," you're probably just imagining things. Even if you're not, it's your fault for not feathering the throttle enough, riding when it's too warm, or not wearing enough brand-name gear.
 
Save your money on clutch kits especially during these transitory times of fake inflation. Our resident forum experts have determined only the top 3% of riders will benefit from an improved clutch calibration and proper alignment. Are you a 3%er?
You forgot to slide the word "woke" in there. Otherwise this is another exceptional Rusty Dave post ???
 
^ Absolutely spot on. Can you run a line up a steep, treed slope that'd have a big name rider gulping and crossing his fingers before he followed you? If not, then you'll never notice any difference from clutching or gearing your sled. Also, all this talk of alignment, belt life, clutch temps - it's a bunch of hens clucking. Just run what the FSM says and spend the money you save on extra OEM belts (will probably save enough to buy two!). If you think your belts aren't lasting long enough, you're getting RPM fade, or something else "isn't right," you're probably just imagining things. Even if you're not, it's your fault for not feathering the throttle enough, riding when it's too warm, or not wearing enough brand-name gear.
Incorrect.
 
If it bothers you that the specs are missing on the helix and spring color you’re most likely a liberal, and you despise capitalism. It can take many many weeks sometimes months and even years to come up with a really good clutch improvement system. Problem with leaving all the identification marks on clutch components allow someone to simply change the results that you’ve come up with by 1° or maybe 2° and and then claim improvement. ( for their riding style or weight ). It’s a big difference between clutch set ups for 150 pound rider versus a 375 pound rider.

then they give it to some pro rider or so-called pro rider they go on public forums or Facebook and brag about how awesome it is when they don’t even know the difference from one kit to another cause I’ve never actually purchased anything they get everything for free.

Wheelhorse Motor Sports you must be one those in line for school loan debt relief. ….. and if you say clutch kits don’t work you’ve obviously never driven a Polaris side-by-side……. Clutch life, belt life performance increases are at percentages is so high it’s almost hard to calculate improved operator experience.

The reason guys like you get on a public forum and rant and rave about identifying marks being missing from the clutch components are usually too stupid to figure out something on their own or too cheap to spend the money on a developed kit.

I can say this a person like you could buy 200 different clutch components and test every combo and never come up with a side-by-side kit as good as one of our side-by-side kits.

and the reason I use side-by-side as an example is simply because the factory set ups are so bad Clutch sheaves actually melt and break….. ( do a google search on broke Polaris side by side clutches breaking ) snowmobile clutch set ups from the factory are much closer & better and it is much more complex to get improvements.

and there is a massive difference between clutching a snowmobile for 150 pound rider versus a 375 pound rider, and a massive difference between 6000 feet in elevation to 12,000 feet.

another thing there is no conventional non-adjustable clutch weight that can be made to work as good as an adjustable weight that you can move the weight around from close to the heel to weigh out on the tip and subtract weight in the middle where throttle aggressive throttle response is important. ( conventional weights cannot possibly cover the differences between 150 pound rider two or 375 pound rider it’s not possible)

over the years it’s always funny to see the guys that are pissy and jealous because they can’t see the numbers so they can’t go in order to helix is above and two helix is below and try to find a one percent change that happens by chance to work for their fat a$$……

then they go on a public forum or on Facebook and brag how awesome they are and how great a tuner they are when they really don’t know their head from a hole in the ground.

then to really top it off if it’s a Facebook page and the person who owns the Facebook page happens to not like someone that posts on that particular page doesn’t sell that product then they delete the post so they only leave information on there highlighting their products and how this particular pro rider or so-called pro rider spews their rhetoric and brags about how awesome their product is when most of them don’t know anything about different products they just take whatever is free.

and anyone who thinks a clutch kit is good for them because Chris Brandt loves it it’s crazy because there isn’t one riders out of 50,000 that can ride ever close to Chris Brandt’s capabilities.

Chris Brandt has two speeds…. shut off and wide-open throttle.

Chris Brandt can drive a snowmobile with the worst clutch set up there is better than just about anybody with the best clutch set up there is.

there’s always guys like Wheelhorse Motor Sports that are so jealous that someone’s making a possible profit off of something that they’re usually too stupid or lazy to figure out.

back in the day it was always funny to hear the stories from a guy or guys in a bar saying yeah I remember hearing about a group saying let’s all get together pool our money buy one clutch kit then we’ll figure out the components and then we’ll go buy them from the separate vendors and save 50 buck. LoL. ?

guys like Wheelhorse back in the drag racing days…… I could get a sled to come out of the hole three lengths faster in 15 minutes by clutching then guys like him could figure out in 10 years of copying other peoples stuff.



Dan
 
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If it bothers you that the specs are missing on the helix and spring color you’re most likely a liberal, and you despise capitalism. It can take many many weeks sometimes months and even years to come up with a really good clutch improvement system. Problem with leaving all the identification marks on clutch components allow someone to simply change the results that you’ve come up with by 1° or maybe 2° and and then claim improvement. ( for their riding style or weight ). It’s a big difference between clutch set ups for 150 pound rider versus a 375 pound rider.

then they give it to some pro rider or so-called pro rider they go on public forums or Facebook and brag about how awesome it is when they don’t even know the difference from one kit to another cause I’ve never actually purchased anything they get everything for free.

Wheelhorse Motor Sports you must be one those in line for school loan debt relief. ….. and if you say clutch kits don’t work you’ve obviously never driven a Polaris side-by-side……. Clutch life, belt life performance increases are at percentages is so high it’s almost hard to calculate improved operator experience.

The reason guys like you get on a public forum and rant and rave about identifying marks being missing from the clutch components are usually too stupid to figure out something on their own or too cheap to spend the money on a developed kit.

I can say this a person like you could buy 200 different clutch components and test every combo and never come up with a side-by-side kit as good as one of our side-by-side kits.

and the reason I use side-by-side as an example is simply because the factory set ups are so bad Clutch sheaves actually melt and break….. ( do a google search on broke Polaris side by side clutches breaking ) snowmobile clutch set ups from the factory are much closer & better and it is much more complex to get improvements.

and there is a massive difference between clutching a snowmobile for 150 pound rider versus a 375 pound rider, and a massive difference between 6000 feet in elevation to 12,000 feet.

another thing there is no conventional non-adjustable clutch weight that can be made to work as good as an adjustable weight that you can move the weight around from close to the heel to weigh out on the tip and subtract weight in the middle where throttle aggressive throttle response is important. ( conventional weights cannot possibly cover the differences between 150 pound rider two or 375 pound rider it’s not possible)

over the years it’s always funny to see the guys that are pissy and jealous because they can’t see the numbers so they can’t go in order to helix is above and two helix is below and try to find a one percent change that happens by chance to work for their fat a$$……

then they go on a public forum or on Facebook and brag how awesome they are and how great a tuner they are when they really don’t know their head from a hole in the ground.

then to really top it off if it’s a Facebook page and the person who owns the Facebook page happens to not like someone that posts on that particular page doesn’t sell that product then they delete the post so they only leave information on there highlighting their products and how this particular pro rider or so-called pro rider spews their rhetoric and brags about how awesome their product is when most of them don’t know anything about different products they just take whatever is free.

and anyone who thinks a clutch kit is good for them because Chris Brandt loves it it’s crazy because there isn’t one riders out of 50,000 that can ride ever close to Chris Brandt’s capabilities.

Chris Brandt has two speeds…. shut off and wide-open throttle.

Chris Brandt can drive a snowmobile with the worst clutch set up there is better than just about anybody with the best clutch set up there is.

there’s always guys like Wheelhorse Motor Sports that are so jealous that someone’s making a possible profit off of something that they’re usually too stupid or lazy to figure out.

back in the day it was always funny to hear the stories from a guy or guys in a bar saying yeah I remember hearing about a group saying let’s all get together pool our money buy one clutch kit then we’ll figure out the components and then we’ll go buy them from the separate vendors and save 50 buck. LoL. ?

guys like Wheelhorse back in the drag racing days…… I could get a sled to come out of the hole three lengths faster in 15 minutes by clutching then guys like him could figure out in 10 years of copying other peoples stuff.



Dan
Woah dan.

Tell us how you really feel! ?

Nick seems to like Tony’s clutching which has a lot of testing done to get it dialed.

There’s some similarities between Tony’s clutching and yours but as far as I know he was going towards the light springs and low angle helixes for a couple years before you went that way.

The carls, slp, burandt, clutch kits are very similar and arguably no better than stock for changing elevations and conditions.
 
LLLLLLET’S GET READY TO RRRRRUMBLE!
IN Polaris colors, INDYDAN!
In Arctic Cat colors, WHEELHOUSE!
 
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Incorrect.
I'm sorry... You must be one of those poor people with a box of clutch components somebody convinced you to swap out of your perfectly-engineered Polaris. All that money spent, when it's physically impossible to improve over what it came from the factory with. You clearly need to ride with someone with the talent to recognize, and convince you of Polaris's infallibility.
 
Woah dan.

Tell us how you really feel! ?

Nick seems to like Tony’s clutching which has a lot of testing done to get it dialed.

There’s some similarities between Tony’s clutching and yours but as far as I know he was going towards the light springs and low angle helixes for a couple years before you went that way.

The carls, slp, burandt, clutch kits are very similar and arguably no better than stock for changing elevations and conditions.
I don’t have a problem with anything on here, or do I blame anyone for choosing one product over another for what ever reason ( be it a so called pro rider uses it and barks how great it is even if that rider hasn’t tried anything else )

or they use a product because they saw it here.

clutching is very complex.

drag racing.
mtn type sleds @ ( 3000 all the way to 12,000 )
water skipping
trail sleds.

clutching can be wildly different in these applications.

that being said - what I think is funny - is someone barking how offended they are about products the do not pave the way ( with I.D. Marks for them to have a starting point to tune from ) or they Are offended by a assembled package that is simple and easy to install with good instructions )

the simple reason most people want to see the helix number is so they can try to make sense of how the sled performs with the helix numbers compared to the stock one or other kits.

if that’s what you want then go buy 200 different helixes and start testing and taking notes.

verse cutting corners by looking or asking what items are in kits they use or they seem to like or here a lot of people like it. ( so they can save a few bucks off the backs of other people )

gut instinct is wheel horse motor sports is a whinny little poor me cry baby. Slamming anyone that doesn’t get up every morning and go to work and plan a paved way to make everyone’s life easier at the expense of others.

and to the reference to TRS clutching to Indy Specialty clutching ( Not sure that’s much of a thing since Indy Specialty covers every style riding and elevation ) and Tony pretty much specializes is Mountain only.)

Tony has the luxury of being able to zone in on exactly Cooke City / Top of the world areas on sleds that are in a heated shop every night.

I have to please a much wider group that use their sleds in a broader environment ( -20 below zero sitting on a sled deck and the first move of the day is to back off the deck with a frozen belt without slipping and burning the belt )

or sitting outside all night at -20 below with the track froze to the ground.

Riders with Tony’s riding ability and style are rare ( There is not one person out off 5000 everyday riders that can ride as good as Tony ) or rides like him.

All Tonys sleds sit in his heated shop every night.

I sell many different kits and some are similar to what Tony likes ( high reving low end throttle response from a tucked clutch weight with a soft spring ) fun to drive and snappy in the trees. Tony’s has a great mtn focus in the Cooke area.

Great for some people ( Not great for a sled that sits outside in the cold or has to back up first to unload ) a tucked weight will burn the living **** out of the belt when it’s cold.

I sell all kits to use the stock Polaris belt ( Tony runs different belts ); I do not want to deal with aftermarket belts or aftermarket oil. ( brings in to many problems for ease dealing with lots people from all over the country not just the mountains.

most people are very touchy about what they like and don't like.

same goes with Chris Burandt. Just about nobody can ride like Chris or Tony.

you all gotta run with what you like, or think you will like.

so that being said with all have different set ups for the masses.

I have rode all over place in all different types of riding not just mountains. SW is of course a pretty big mountain crowd.

Cheers
Dan
 
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One point I'd like to mention is make sure you make several ski to ski uphill runs beside a solid running consistent machine before you decide your clutching is not satisfactory. Look for that set-up that works well in all elevations of the area you frequent. I've witnessed several friends over the years that have gone with So and So's clutching because somebody had a great review of the kit, and were highly disappointed. I had a friend who performed a gear down of his 850, plus new helix, springs, weights (spent approximately $1,200.00 and turned his sled into a turd, it didn't work well in any one condition, all it did was overrev and consistently ran poorly. Comparing with side by side runs in all conditions will give you the best visual of who launches well, who has mid pull, who has backshift. Don't forget extremely high elevation comparisons, not much runs well above 10,000 for instance. I've rode with many who brag day in day out how awesome their sleds are at say 8,000', but won't even run a comparison run at 10,500' because they know their machine will fall on its face. Finding a set-up that performs well from 8,000' to 11,500' can be extremely rewarding and satisfying, as many will be wrenching, cussing, and changing components all day long hoping for a better result. while others may be enjoying the day soaking up the sunshine while perched on a well tuned machine.
 
Thanks Dan, and maybe most people don’t know we are friends.
But a little background may be in order for the masses.
My career started in oval racing and cross country back in the ‘70s. Did my share of grass drags as well. Moved to the mountains in 1986. Best move ever.
I mostly ride Cooke and the Beartooth. I also ride, Nevada, California, Washington, Idaho, Colorado, Wisconsin and BC.
I built custom mountain sleds in the late ‘90s and early 2000’s sporting 990, 995,1200WC and 1375 Union Bay engines along with grass drag chassis and suspensions.
When mountain production sleds started to improve, the writing was on the wall for custom sleds.
I do clutching for customers from sea level to 12,000’.
To date I’m still involved in oval racing, RMSHA and flat land tuning.
I do like Gates belts, with that said 98% of my customers run stock belts.
I spent nearly 25 years doing R&D for 4 Polaris dealers. They sold my clutch kits along with shock packages, engine tuning and modifications.
Yes, my sleds sit in a heated shop when I’m home or at the shop. Along with anyone who stays with me.
Dan and his crew knows that because they have stayed with me.
Nightly maintenance at my shop is a priority. I pass that along to all who ride with TRS. It definitely lessens down time on the mountain when you find issues that can be fixed prior to a ride.
Frost covered clutches cannot grab a belt, we all know that. The Polaris belt is rock hard to start with add -20* and frost covered clutches. Nothing moves.
 
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