I should maybe quantify my disgust with the world of "custom clutching" Both Indy and TRS have provided more free info online then most guys sell you in their kit. I've run both of their systems with above average results, I've landed on TRS as my preferred system as although it is the most nuanced, it provides the best overall results for me and my preferences. Also Tony's willingness to explain the details and teach about the CVT system is what helped increase my ability to help others enjoy their riding experience more. I've also had Indy do rebuilds / balances on my worn clutches and bring them to an above OEM level of finished spec. I have nothing but respect for the work these guys do.
Also preference is no joke on clutching. While I LOVE my setups i've found I put guys on the sled who cant stand it. Not that it doesnt work well, they just do not enjoy the power delivery or are just not used to it so struggle to ride as well. So "best" is still subjective. My use of the term best is a quality power delivery with the least heat / fade / component wear as this provides the most consistent results from pull to pull and day to day.
My personal experience from almost 20 years of riding & wrenching transitioning from a complete newb of mechanical and riding skills to fairly seasoned in both regards has found one thing. The majority of riders don't know or care how anything works, they just want "better". They do not know what better is or how to even quantify it in any sort of real world results. So when every shop shows up with their 'secret' recipe for clutching that's the best in the world..... call me a bit skeptical. I've too often gotten kits that are virtually identical to OEM configurations or just repeats of other aftermarket kits as Dan mentioned and after being sold the same repackaged system. The amount of companies selling a rebranded what I would call the Carls Cycle clutching is disgusting. Again, as dan mentioned people copy and change the angle 1-2* on the start or finish or maybe plus or minus a few pounds on the spring rates, but ultimately its the same recipe that's been around since the dragon came out. Or my favorite is just provide a cool trade named weight which is a literal identical copy of the OEM 10 series weights and charge double.
Why I caution guys against throwing a clutch kit at their sleds before having any sort of baseline or routine maintenance done is as follows. For the last few seasons I've done fairly large amount of tunnel cuts on axys sleds. These sleds all consistently have $1-5k in other mods done to them so no just beater stockers. The one thing that I notice on nearly every machine when pulling in my shop is that the belt deflection is insanely loose and the belt is usually incredibly worn and should be reduced to a spare at best. When removing panels for work I find the sheaves are incredibly glazed, worn/missing roller bushings, and often primary springs are broken. Point being the general cross sections of sleds are at well below the OEM baseline for performance due to general neglect or lack of understanding of necessary service and upkeep.
Moral of the story: If a guy isn't capable of keeping his system in proper condition then the components of his clutch kit wont net qualty results either. I will give CB a lot of credit here, hes put some quality info on YouTube videos about this along with clutching for elevation properly and how massive the results can be. I say all this not from some holier then thou attitude as I was that guy for many years, but riding with so many people through the years that mod their sleds in a way that actually makes it function worse then stock is why I am such a critic of a LOT of mods and companies putting sales before quality product and helping make people have a better experience.
That said, I have done multiple clutching upgrades over the years and some had made a noticeable improvement in back shifting etc… None of them made me a better rider.
