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Chris Burandt Clutch Kit for new Matryx 850 including helix, thoughts?

I just installed a Burandt clutch kit on a friends sled for him. The springs are standard color SLP springs in SLP packaging with specs, a custom Venom helix also marked, SLP Magnum Force Weights, and a roller bearing with thrust washer. It hasn’t been on snow with the new clutching yet so I can’t comment on how it performs. But none of the specs are hidden.
I do apologize for my misinformation on Spring and Helix being marked on the Burandt Clutch Kit. Normally I would install myself and would have known this. But I sent the whole Kit to Patricks Carbon Customs brand new in the box with my primary and secondary. He installed it all before lightening and balancing the clutches. Good to know they are marked. I will take a look when I pull the clutches to inspec and clean.

From what I understand about Burandt Venom Helix is it has a double ramp to it.
 
I find it interesting what a huge range of helix angles people use, seen anywhere from low 30’s to high 50’s for angles. Just goes to show everyone has their opinion on how clutching should be done. Ones guys “best setup ever” will be the next guys “what the hell was this guy thinking” clutching.
 
I ran my stock 850 with the stock clutch components; proper weights for my elevation (paid very close attention to detail, belt deflection and cleanliness ect.)- stock was decent. I bought the Carl's Cycle's kit for my elevation 6-8K feet. The kit uses the stock primary black spring. Kit included EPI belly buster weights, venom helix and secondary spring with roller bearing for back shifting. All parts were marked and in the supplier's original packaging (no secrets). It was the best bang for my buck performance wise, I'd buy it all over again in a heart beat. That being said, Carl's is in my hometown and they have the altitude around here dialed with their setup (might be different elsewhere). My sled shifts much better, pulls harder and stays at 8300 WFO.
 
It's what feels best for you. Kit's all feel different, some rev very fast others a bit slower rev, but pull harder. Some are very strong on the bottom, but fade after that. Others are not so strong on the bottom end, but pull more on top.
 
I don't have this sled, have never ridden it and don't know what I'm talking about...which means I am Snowest Certified to chime in here and give bad advice. That said, the trick to good clutching comes down to more cowbell and a well-place hot dogger. You don't want the hot dogger too close to the header because you will burn your burritos before lunch. At the stinger and you'll have delicious, hot somewhat crispy burritos. I don't like hot pockets.
 
I don't have this sled, have never ridden it and don't know what I'm talking about...which means I am Snowest Certified to chime in here and give bad advice. That said, the trick to good clutching comes down to more cowbell and a well-place hot dogger. You don't want the hot dogger too close to the header because you will burn your burritos before lunch. At the stinger and you'll have delicious, hot somewhat crispy burritos. I don't like hot pockets.
How can you be certified and not like hot pockets? You might have your certificate revoked! Do you even dangle?????
 
There are definitely two things going on here: some of us are indeed too quick to throw parts at our sleds before evaluating how it's working and what really needs to be addressed; on the other hand, you have to be pretty unaware (or maybe too into mountain beers) to be unable to notice a difference in clutching changes. It's pretty silly to blindly throw a kit on because it's "the best." But it's also silly, to my mind at least, to ride a sled that's out of tune, or that you don't like the feel of - and clutching has more to do with those things than anything else that's easily changed in the engine/drivetrain. After you've read up on clutching, then tinkered with it on your sled for a while, you'll get a pretty good understanding of what does what. Then, if something feels off in the factory clutching, you'll probably have some idea whether Joe Blow's Killer Klutch Kit (don't put that acronym on your sled, even it Joe's kit works great) is going to address that "problem" area or not, or maybe even make it worse.

I'm the type who'll tinker just to tinker. So clutching is a "fun" thing to play with for me. Maybe I want a little softer engagement, so I'll try a softer primary spring or weights with more mass at the heel. Maybe I want more backshift, so I go to a shallower helix or stiffer secondary spring. I might have to back-track and take a different approach, but eventually I come to a combination that performs and responds better than before. Even an "if it's not broke, don't fix it" rider would probably notice the difference; to them, the difference might not be worth the effort, but it doesn't mean it's imperceptible. Obviously unless somebody's totally OCD, it's going to be "good enough" at some point. One thing I've noticed: when the snow's great, my clutching seems pretty spot on; when it's crummy, I'm always finding the next little quirk to work on...
 
. One thing I've noticed: when the snow's great, my clutching seems pretty spot on; when it's crummy, I'm always finding the next little quirk to work on...
Either your definition of “great” snow and “crummy” snow is completely different than mine or you need to actually find deep snow……….

I’ve noticed exactly the opposite……….

But maybe “great snow” = hero snow for you. ???
 
Obviously I mean nice, fluffy snow, which unfortunately is a little scarce around here this season. When it's the set-up stuff, or spring mashed potatoes is when I tinker. Guessing everybody got that one except for you...
 
Obviously I mean nice, fluffy snow, which unfortunately is a little scarce around here this season. When it's the set-up stuff, or spring mashed potatoes is when I tinker. Guessing everybody got that one except for you...
So when the snow is “great” usually that means deeper, which creates more load on the clutching, more heat, engine works harder.
In my experience this highlights any weaknesses in my clutching setup.
Loose belt deflection, low rpm, belt worn or glazed, too much flyweight, sacked out primary spring…… etc. this prompts me to change/ fix the issue.

When the snow is “crummy” all these subtle symptoms are “masked” by the lower amount of snow, less heat, lighter load on the engine……… = hero snow, no changes needed.

I’m sorry you were offended by me pointing out your lack of connection to reality……..

I’m actually interested in helping you understand clutching theory.

I just have a hard time not reverting to sarcasm…..

Please try to think of it as light hearted jesting instead of insulting your mother.
 
It's what feels best for you. Kit's all feel different, some rev very fast others a bit slower rev, but pull harder. Some are very strong on the bottom, but fade after that. Others are not so strong on the bottom end, but pull more on top.
Absolutely agree. I used to like having a variety of springs, weights, Helix. Go try a combo, log the info of what I thought and what I might adjust the next time out. Take mental notes, write down in a notepad when I got back to the truck which combo I liked and did not like with the setup for an area, type of riding, snow conditions. Also write down what I want to change next time to possibly improve it. Then take a trip somewhere else and do the same with developing another setup for that area. At the end of the year I'd order another sled and start all over the following year. Nerd stuff right.
 
Absolutely agree. I used to like having a variety of springs, weights, Helix. Go try a combo, log the info of what I thought and what I might adjust the next time out. Take mental notes, write down in a notepad when I got back to the truck which combo I liked and did not like with the setup for an area, type of riding, snow conditions. Also write down what I want to change next time to possibly improve it. Then take a trip somewhere else and do the same with developing another setup for that area. At the end of the year I'd order another sled and start all over the following year. Nerd stuff right.
I’m glad I’m not the only one ?
 
I also think clutching is over rated, ive ridden a couple sleds with clutch kits, (one cat, one poo 850) and honestly i like the way my stock one felt better, they are setup pretty good from factory- i could think of alot of things i would do to my axys long before anything on the clutching- just rebuild them once they wear out and ride them. Dont fix whats not broken.... the only reason i could see investing in clutching is if youve done something to change the sled (more power-gearing-track etc....) im thinking of throwing a pipe on mine and i still might leave the clutching well see
 
My .02, your sled is a mass produced piece of equipment. Depending on where you and your ride type and zone land on the bell curve, the sled might be perfect for you, or it might not. You taylor your machine to your liking. There might be something left on the table for your sled if you’re on one end or the other of the spectrum. The same can be said for suspension. Whatever the 50 percentile is may or may not work best for you specifically. If stock is good enough, ride it. If you think it’s lacking, then tweak it. Burandts setup might work awesome in the Colorado snow, at that altitude, with that riding style. It may not be optimized in others. To each there own. Test it, if you don’t like it, try something else, or if you’re content with Polaris’ setup then leave it. Others in this thread have said the same already.
 
I have a home brew clutch kit combo that i put together, its a missile on both bottom and top .
I got to finnaly compare it to a tottaly stk pro 65 with a slp can vs my 65 Koas, both 22s, there was a very clear differance between my settup and the pro stk clutching. On one climb, i was over 100 feet above him, another he had to make 2 attempts to get up where i pulled it in one shot, in situations where we were up against a wall from a dead start, i could accelerate quick enough to get up on plane and go up and over.
He rode mine and he was tottaly impressed with its pull and track speed.
Now he wants the details off my kit lol
 
I have a home brew clutch kit combo that i put together, its a missile on both bottom and top .
I got to finnaly compare it to a tottaly stk pro 65 with a slp can vs my 65 Koas, both 22s, there was a very clear differance between my settup and the pro stk clutching. On one climb, i was over 100 feet above him, another he had to make 2 attempts to get up where i pulled it in one shot, in situations where we were up against a wall from a dead start, i could accelerate quick enough to get up on plane and go up and over.
He rode mine and he was tottaly impressed with its pull and track speed.
Now he wants the details off my kit lol
So, lets hear about the details.
 
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