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850 bogging

I would be interested to know if there as a temperature change or elevation change? I found my sled ran worse after I dropped to a lower elevation.

Im here at about 315 ft. no elevation change and no big temperature change. Just the smoler gap on the spark plugs.

I would not dare to go from 9 to 6 on my spark plugs btw. Im new to these sled engines, but in the turbo car world that would be risky move.
Also in turbo car scene, it's common knowledge that iridium spark plugs dont take flooding as good as regular spark plugs. Might not be a fact, but seem to be some kind of thing.
 
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Im here at about 315 ft. no elevation change and no big temperature change. Just the smoler gap on the spark plugs.

I would not dare to go from 9 to 6 on my spark plugs btw. Im new to these sled engines, but in the turbo car world that would be risky move.
Also in turbo car scene, it's common knowledge that iridium spark plugs dont take flooding as good as regular spark plugs. Might not be a fact, but seem to be some kind of thing.

Only main reason I went to iridium was the high temperature it can handle.
 
Only main reason I went to iridium was the high temperature it can handle.

Dont get me wrong , i dont think that i know better than you. My English is bad, so i might sound rude or something beacause i cant write it any other way.

Anyway, i would like to hear what happens if you try the smaler gap, because you have been testing lots of other options.
 
Dont get me wrong , i dont think that i know better than you. My English is bad, so i might sound rude or something beacause i cant write it any other way.

Anyway, i would like to hear what happens if you try the smaler gap, because you have been testing lots of other options.

Doesn't changing to a smaller gap allow fuel to short out that gap easier or flood the gap easier? I assume spark flows through air easier than through fuel?? I expect fuel to be less conductive but i could be wrong. I did not take you as rude. : )
 
My 850 is also bogging and I have 10.2 hrs and set on "NON ETH". It had it when new but is getting worse as I log more hrs. Love the sled but it's hard to ride in the deep with this bog unless I ride fast. It usually only bogs when going slow and then you stab the gas. My dealer said they had a few reports of the situation and polaris is aware of it with no fix yet. Kinda sux because it's my first polaris and I really enjoy it until it bogs. I hope the fix soon
 
Have anyone of you guys tried to recalibrate the exhaust valves if you still notice some bogging after 10-20hours passed?
 
My 850 146 SKS would bog 100% every time if i go WOT from standing still or from low speed. UNTIL TODAY!!

Last night i reduced the spark plug gap from stock 0.7mm to somewhere about 0.45m. And today i could not make this thing bog!

I had awesome 170km ride,0 issues. i tried like 20 times to make it bog, on the trail and off the trail and nothing. It hits 8400rpm and then settles to 8300 and puls hard.

I also smoked my brothers Brp 850 powered Lynx RE Boondocker from the standing still and from the roll.

SO IF YOUR PATRIOT BOGS, TRY TO REDUCE YOUR SPARK PLUG GAP TO 0.5MM.

It worked for me at least for today. So pumped right now!


And how does someone reduces spark plug gap? Im not sure i know what you mean sry
 
By lightly tapping the side electrode/ground to close the gap with the center electrode. Thus should produce a hotter spark, but it does not get as much air/fuel to ignite since it is a more confined area. I used to grind the side/ ground electrode past the ctr. line of the ctr. electrode to expose more air fuel mixture. Just make sure both a sharp edge as that is where the electricity easily jumps from. That is why you replace spark plugs after so many miles, as ea. edge gets rouded off, then voltage doesn't arc/jump very well and places higher demand from the electrical system. Maybe he is on to something as these engines run colder overall with coolant upgrade, maybe too cool to properly atomize the fuel? Then again maybe some are running cooler than others after break-in and computer can't quite adjust for altitude/temp? Does anyone know if Polaris re-designed the combustion chamber from the 800's? Mike
 
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By lightly tapping the side electrode/ground to close the gap with the center electrode. Thus should produce a hotter spark, but it does not get as much air/fuel to ignite since it is a more confined area. I used to grind the side/ ground electrode past the ctr. line of the ctr. electrode to expose more air fuel mixture. Just make sure both a sharp edge as that is where the electricity easily jumps from. That is why you replace spark plugs after so many miles, as ea. edge gets rouded off, then voltage doesn't arc/jump very well and places higher demand from the electrical system. Maybe he is on to something as these engines run colder overall with coolant upgrade, maybe too cool to properly atomize the fuel? Then again maybe some are running cooler than others after break-in and computer can't quite adjust for altitude/temp? Does anyone know if Polaris re-designed the combustion chamber from the 800's? Mike

Combustion chamber on the 850 is almost exactly the Sam as the 800 Axys motor..... And I mean almost exactly.

A few tenths different.

Dan
 
And how does someone reduces spark plug gap? Im not sure i know what you mean sry

Here is a video where this guy talks about spark plug gaps. What it does, and whats the theory behind the adjusting. In our sleds, the air/fuel mixture is so rich, that it "kils" the spark. With smaller gap the spark is stronger so the rich air/fuel mixture wont kill it so easy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlkFYlzPuvo

And here is a video about adjusting the actual gap adjusting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk70oyUEftY


It takes like 10 minutes and 0$ from you to to try this.
 
Doesn't changing to a smaller gap allow fuel to short out that gap easier or flood the gap easier? I assume spark flows through air easier than through fuel?? I expect fuel to be less conductive but i could be wrong. I did not take you as rude. : )


In my mind, the spark is stronger with smaller gap. It takes less energy to make the spark with smaller gap.

In other way, it needs richer air/fuel mixture to kill the spark when the gap is smaller.


Thats why i wanted to try reducing the gap, because we cant lean the air/fuel mixture, or make the ignition stronger at the moment.
 
Ive been talking about this on Finnish sled forum also, and there is a guy who had the boggin problem in his 850 Pro RMK, and he found the solution also from reducing the gap.



So 2/2 at the moment.
 
Ive been talking about this on Finnish sled forum also, and there is a guy who had the boggin problem in his 850 Pro RMK, and he found the solution also from reducing the gap.



So 2/2 at the moment.

So stock gap is, .027 inches or .7 mm so what are they going to???????
 
This other Finnish guy did not even measure it, he just tapped it smaller :face-icon-small-con



I went to between 0,40 and 0,50 on my Plugs




Update from this other Finnish guy who has 850 Pro RMK. He went and bought new plugs and tool for measuring and reduced the gap to 0,45. Works really good and he is very happy. He even said that he dont need leaner mapping anymore because its working so well and puls good from low rpm also.
 
Update from this other Finnish guy who has 850 Pro RMK. He went and bought new plugs and tool for measuring and reduced the gap to 0,45. Works really good and he is very happy. He even said that he dont need leaner mapping anymore because its working so well and puls good from low rpm also.


Yup. Thats me. Im so happy right now. Thanks for the advice.
Finally my sled rips as it should be and bogging are totally gone.
 
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