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3" Track for the Pro

Interesting info all the way around. I haven't pulled the trigger on anything and the more research I do the more hesitant I am to go with the X3. I have no doubt it will be an outstanding track in the deep snow and on "those days" it will be king. But... for the rest of the days what are the negatives going to be?

-How will it effect trail characteristics? Now some may say, "We are MOUNTAIN riders how cares about how it performs on the trail?" Unfortunately we ALL spend some amount of time on trails and at some point it can become significant. Is the X3 at that point yet???

- As stated, we are suppose to keep speeds down to 50 mph. Now I'm decidedly not a short track bump guy, but 50? Even that will be slow for me on occasion. And over 50, how fast will damage/issues occur? What will that damage/issues be?

- Along the same lines as above, how bad is the vibration going to be on trail, and in the deep for that matter? I think the new center driver setup will help as there is less places for ice to build up and cause imbalance but the size of the track is going to cause some in of itself. And any vibration equals inefficiency. How much? Well that is really hard to say.

- Besides sated speed limitations, it will be slower. Especially compared to the 2.25 PC. And, although not as bad as previous CE, it is also going to be heaver. Overall effect will be...???? Hard to say.

- And personally, I still don't like running combo/extro drivers. I know all the arguments and recent improvements, it's just a personal preference. .

- But on the flip side, in the deep, D!mn this thing is going to KILL it! (I'm pretty sure anyway :) )

I'm honestly not trying to be Mr. Debby Downer, I'm just trying to figure out what is going to be best for me. I was trying to decide between the 2.6 PC and the X3 but I'm hearing so issues with the PC and I'm not sure if I'm ready to commit to the X3 since i currently only have one sled. Actually, right now I'm seriously considering sticking with what I know worked great and was very happy with, the 2.25 PC. (lLfe just sucks when there are so many choices. Don't it?? :) )

Sorry for the excessively long post, but just my thoughts and considerations.

PV
 
PV,

I have come up with my own non-extro option for the '13-'14 PRO RMK whether you run the 3" or not. It is a lot more work and money than the simple driver change but a much better option in my opinion. If I did not think so, I would not have spent so much money getting the parts made for my six builds this winter in prep (read R&D) for my full carbon sled next year. PM me if you want more info.
 
I agree with LH that his 9 tooth driver will see some improvements in efficiency... but, for the average rider, and complete respect towards LH, the difference will not be profound IMO, especially on the single ply tracks for majority of riders out there.

Time will tell... looking forward to seeing LH's builds!


.
 
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Interesting info all the way around. I haven't pulled the trigger on anything and the more research I do the more hesitant I am to go with the X3. I have no doubt it will be an outstanding track in the deep snow and on "those days" it will be king. But... for the rest of the days what are the negatives going to be?

-How will it effect trail characteristics? Now some may say, "We are MOUNTAIN riders how cares about how it performs on the trail?" Unfortunately we ALL spend some amount of time on trails and at some point it can become significant. Is the X3 at that point yet???

You will need to go slower with a tall lug track to keep the paddles from delaminating... You also need to keep stock track tension for the track to work properly... regardless of driver size or tunnel clearance.

- As stated, we are suppose to keep speeds down to 50 mph. Now I'm decidedly not a short track bump guy, but 50? Even that will be slow for me on occasion. And over 50, how fast will damage/issues occur? What will that damage/issues be?

You will need to keep your trail speeds below 50 yes... maybe less... Delamination occurs when the root of the paddle is repeatedly flexed too much and generates heat at the root of the paddle... separating it from the track belting and voiding the warranty. Many people get angry about this and say ... "I never went above 45 with this POS track...and Camo is not warrantying the damage"... Owners fault, not Camo... especially with those Only 2 or 3 times that they drag raced their buddy to the trailer... or ripped up an icy hill on boost for 2 minutes... flapping away.

- Along the same lines as above, how bad is the vibration going to be on trail, and in the deep for that matter? I think the new center driver setup will help as there is less places for ice to build up and cause imbalance but the size of the track is going to cause some in of itself. And any vibration equals inefficiency. How much? Well that is really hard to say.

I've ridden a 7 tooth Avid equipped X3 Pro RMK 162" and saw some additional vibration... but NOT significant.... Not enough to worry me or keep me from putting this same setup on my personal sled this year. IMO. this is the best mod for the money.

- Besides sated speed limitations, it will be slower. Especially compared to the 2.25 PC. And, although not as bad as previous CE, it is also going to be heaver. Overall effect will be...???? Hard to say.

Yes, heavier slightly, maybe not as snappy, but that also depends on dialing in the gearing and clutching. If you are loosing traction in the deep with a shorter lug track... the taller lug of the X3 will move you farther faster... Less "slip" in the snow.

- And personally, I still don't like running combo/extro drivers. I know all the arguments and recent improvements, it's just a personal preference. .

PV... I've heard all the arguments as well... and have not seen a difference in the real world from trimming rails, even without the anti stab. I run anti stab though.

- But on the flip side, in the deep, D!mn this thing is going to KILL it! (I'm pretty sure anyway :) )

Yep!:face-icon-small-coo

I'm honestly not trying to be Mr. Debby Downer, I'm just trying to figure out what is going to be best for me. I was trying to decide between the 2.6 PC and the X3 but I'm hearing so issues with the PC and I'm not sure if I'm ready to commit to the X3 since i currently only have one sled. Actually, right now I'm seriously considering sticking with what I know worked great and was very happy with, the 2.25 PC. (lLfe just sucks when there are so many choices. Don't it?? :) )

Keep the 5.1 if you dont run the X3 IMO. The Pro's outweigh the cons if you ride more pow than hardpack.

Sorry for the excessively long post, but just my thoughts and considerations.

PV



...
 
MH

Thanks for the info on the delam/damage issues and causes. Good additional info to consider. Glad to hear the vibration really isn't that bad from your experience. I always like to hear unbiased (as possible) personal experiences. Decidedly was not trying to re-hash the 7 tooth driver discussion again, was nothing more than my opinion. If I with the X3 I'll definitely be going the 7 tooth route. Probably with the center extra, but not positive yet. Also, the other nice plus I see of the 7 tooth drives is it actually gets the gearing on the Pro close to my preference. Here in AK the vast majority of my riding tends to be in pretty heavy snow (lots of sea level coastal mountains) so the PC/CE actually works better the majority of days than the 5.1. I was really happy with the 2.25 PC, but just my experience.

PV
 
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Not sure if it got covered (long thread)

but the ice age drop chaincase is a sweet billet unit and you dont have to run 7toothers to fit, also, the little D&R does help it get one the snow very nicely.
 
The 2012 I bought had the wrinkle and the chain case was glued on....

While the glue will not preclude damage, it makes the chaincase (in this case) and bearing plate on the '13-'14's a stressed member, helping to take and distribute the impacts / loads to the whole surface rather than point loading it at the attachment hardware. I agree with MH that glueing is preferable.

On my sleds I replace the entire tunnel sides to eliminate the stock cheese grater design and the need for multiple weighty sandwich plates.
 
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While the glue will not preclude damage, it makes the chaincase in this case and bearing plate on the '13-'14's a stressed member, helping to take and distribute the impacts / loads to the whole surface rather than point loading it at the attachment hardware. I agree with MH that glueing is preferable.

On my sleds I replace the entire tunnel sides to eliminate the stock cheese grater design and the need for multiple weighty sandwich plates.

We can agree to disagree... I would say if anyone out there has pics showing a wrinkled tunnel under the chaincase/plate.... I would change my view. Stretched bolt holes.... something to prove that glueing make a difference at all.

I agree that it makes sense to want to glue, is sure does not hurt to glue.
 
Lynn,

It is not keeping th etunnl from wrinkling under the case... but making the case part of the tunnel to reinforce the area... "bridging the gap" so to say.

Trust me, Polaris would not spend the $ on another assembly line operation if it did not keep them from having issues... Especially warranty issues.
 
That makes sense. Thank you Eric.

Lynn,

It is not keeping th etunnl from wrinkling under the case... but making the case part of the tunnel to reinforce the area... "bridging the gap" so to say.

Trust me, Polaris would not spend the $ on another assembly line operation if it did not keep them from having issues... Especially warranty issues.
 
Ok about to put the track in with 7 tooth drivers. What is the easiest way to in stall? Remove Quik Drive mount or is there a way to get it in there with out removing the mount. I have put the axle in close but looks like I need more room to make it work.
 
Ok about to put the track in with 7 tooth drivers. What is the easiest way to in stall? Remove Quik Drive mount or is there a way to get it in there with out removing the mount. I have put the axle in close but looks like I need more room to make it work.

You should be able to pull the snap ring and remove the lower bearing to allow a little more room to line the drivers up and then re-install the bearing and snap ring. I have not and won't run a seven tooth but the principle is the same regardless. Works like a charm with the stock setup. No need to unglue and re-glue every track change.
 
Team Tied Clutching

Who's running the X3 with 7tooth drivers and a Tied setup on a 12 Pro 163"??? What are you running for clutching??? I'm @ 2500'-5000'.
I'm running the stock primary spring, Dalton adjustables with 66.3 grams, Team Tied with 73-59-36 helix and Team Red spring. Just rode an area on Saturday where 66.3 grams would rev to 8500 with the old 5.1 track and on Saturday it would rev 7850-8250 and drop down to 7600 under load and bounce back. I switched the helix to 73-57-36 today and am gonna try it. Looking at the helix, you can see the roller marks and looks like it is too much helix to shift all the way out... Roller marks look to be only coming 1/2 the way or so down the cut..... What do you guys think???
 
So the big question is...
If a guy procrastinates until late November (or beyond) to think about the new track and whatever drivers are needed for them... will they be available? In other words are the preseason orders enough to have prompted more production runs punched or not... Or has the ship sailed?

I'd like to hear some more real life experience thinking that a few of the reviews are speculating on ordered parts or garage performance.

Orders are filled EASILY. Dropped my sled off on Weds last week, picked it up on Friday. Can't wait to get into this new fresh we have (we got a LOT of it).

156 "X3", 15 wide. Not center punched. 7t Avids. Anti-stab and rails trimmed. HiperFax. 8" Fabcraft rear idlers and offset axle. After this season, I may drill out the center holes anyway...just for track lube, if I decide I need it.

HiperFax, IMO, is a SMART idea with 3" paddles even if a guy has scratchers.

Also, re-arc your scratchers with the 3" paddles to increase the downforce needed with 1/2" taller paddles on the roads.


Does anyone know the weight of the 156 X3?

I saw the 162 is 59 LBS but didn't see the 156 weight? I'm guessing 55 LBS? Right about the same as the PC 153 2.6? Thanks

PV

156 "X3" is 56lbs according to Camoplast website.

Does anyone know the weight of the stock 2013 Polaris 5.1 in a 155" length?
 
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And remember, this isn't a "cheap" mod.


I also did a limiter strap upgrade...and a couple of smaller things.

But after paying parts and labor, I'm at $2k before I sell my stock track.
 
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