3" Track for the Pro
- Thread starter FatDogX
- Start date
I have an adjustable limiter strap that HM Turbos (Hart's Mortorsports) uses.
I'll snap a picture of it.
Just takes a 1/2" wrench or socked to turn up or down ski pressure.
Also have what Shane calls the "poor man's K-mod"...limiter strap on the rear scissor. It's supposed to couple the suspension.
Hitting the rough whoops is probably hard on it, but in the powder the idea is that it couples the suspension and makes it work better.
I'll snap a picture of it.
Just takes a 1/2" wrench or socked to turn up or down ski pressure.
Also have what Shane calls the "poor man's K-mod"...limiter strap on the rear scissor. It's supposed to couple the suspension.
Hitting the rough whoops is probably hard on it, but in the powder the idea is that it couples the suspension and makes it work better.
R
roni87
Well-known member
I'll try this...
Such a simple idea...I think i'll try this on my 146.
I could see the stock cross shaft bending after time though, maybe sleeve it with another piece of tubing if so.
If you want it like I have, just order the HM turbo's adjustable front limiter strap and then move the OEM stock limiter back to the rear scissor.
The rear limiter you see on mine is the stock limiter from up front.
Call Shane at 406-273-6111
The rear limiter you see on mine is the stock limiter from up front.
Call Shane at 406-273-6111
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According to Hart's, if you pound through the really rough stuff that rear scissor liniter set up wont last too awfully long and you'll have to replace the shaft or strap.
But if you behave with it on the trail it should be fine for a while.
I can't wait to see how it does in the powder.
R
R_8_N
Well-known member
Is anyone seeing overheating issues? our snow pack is crap and hard but my old track never really made my sled overheat. Now it just keeps climbing up. had to zip tie the flap to the bumper too because it was always getting sucked into the track. Any tips for this? Was thinking about adding the Fastrax cooler back there.
we have the same isssue on the doo,s . The 3 inch simply dosnt spin much and spray Sno into the coolers. At a minimum a one inch hole behind the center paddle[every other window] helps spray sno up into the cooler, I,m considering a hole every paddle Just for cooling. The first option will not pull any sno into the skid, Second option should pull enough to lower temps.
You may want to consider the $28 upgrade (a conversion to the Doo thermostat) which lowers the running temp and increases coolant flow thru the entire system (which is what the PRO needs, especially in marginal or setup snowpack regardless of what track). The cost ends up just north of $100 with all the hoses, clamps and misc. There are two threads that detail the subject quite well and the thought and testing that TRS put into the development of the kit.
I have had the same issues and added a PAR cooler on mine, it does help but does not totally eliminate the problem. Depending on the snow type the scratchers do not create enough dust to carry over into the track. Usually warmer weather were the snow has softened up a bit is the biggest challenge. I have tried a non ported flap (PPD) but all it did was suck into the track and stop all snow from getting in contact with the coolers. May try a Polaris flap, one thing I have noticed is the faster I ride the better the cooling. More snow seems to carry around with the track at greater speeds (30mph>) there is a caveat with this though as track temperatures seem to rise. My track has started to delaminate after 800 miles and will be replaced with the stock track once enough paddles decide to exit.
N
newtrout
Well-known member
My thoughts on the X3 15X162 and 7t drivers
I put the center-punched x3 15X162 on my '13 pro with the Avid center extro 7t drivers. I'm running roosterbuilt clutching. I know they put a lot of time into perfecting their setup, and it is specifically designed for the 3" with 7t drivers.
Here are my impressions:
-like others have said, it doesn't cool as well. If a stock pro is running 130*, I'd be at *150. This is only an issue on the trail. Any fresh at all, and I was running at the thermostat temp.
-I'm running the track looser than I did with the stock track and stock drivers. It didn't ratchet once in 150 miles of hard riding this past week.
-I agree with other reviews that I've seen on powder performance. You just flat get more groundspeed and less track spin when you wick the throttle. You can run through tricky situations at partial throttle and have more time to make decisions. I noticed no difference in sidehilling, even in hard snow. I didn't have a problem controlling ski lift and transfer. I don't see any need to change the rear skid.
-I knew this track would be great in the powder, but I was surprised at the firm snow performance. It hooked up fine on the hardpack. We hit some steep climbs on firm snow or packed trail this week, and it hooked up better than the stock track.
-I had zero vibration from the track or drivers. None. The only negative handling characteristic was it tended to push more in the corners on the trail. duh.
-The roosterbuilt clutching is spot on. It spins a little higher rpm down the trail, but you don't want to run this track over 50 mph anyway. RPMs never faded, and I had some of the coolest clutches I've ever had. The worst I saw was after a sustained climb through the trees where I was bouncing between 1/2 throttle and wide open for several minutes. After that pull I could keep my hands on either clutch face for ~ 2 seconds. After a long steady throttle pull, I could keep my hand on either clutch.
All said, I've never done a mod that made this much difference on a sled. Add the fact that it doesn't effect reliability and I have a hard time not recommending it.
I put the center-punched x3 15X162 on my '13 pro with the Avid center extro 7t drivers. I'm running roosterbuilt clutching. I know they put a lot of time into perfecting their setup, and it is specifically designed for the 3" with 7t drivers.
Here are my impressions:
-like others have said, it doesn't cool as well. If a stock pro is running 130*, I'd be at *150. This is only an issue on the trail. Any fresh at all, and I was running at the thermostat temp.
-I'm running the track looser than I did with the stock track and stock drivers. It didn't ratchet once in 150 miles of hard riding this past week.
-I agree with other reviews that I've seen on powder performance. You just flat get more groundspeed and less track spin when you wick the throttle. You can run through tricky situations at partial throttle and have more time to make decisions. I noticed no difference in sidehilling, even in hard snow. I didn't have a problem controlling ski lift and transfer. I don't see any need to change the rear skid.
-I knew this track would be great in the powder, but I was surprised at the firm snow performance. It hooked up fine on the hardpack. We hit some steep climbs on firm snow or packed trail this week, and it hooked up better than the stock track.
-I had zero vibration from the track or drivers. None. The only negative handling characteristic was it tended to push more in the corners on the trail. duh.
-The roosterbuilt clutching is spot on. It spins a little higher rpm down the trail, but you don't want to run this track over 50 mph anyway. RPMs never faded, and I had some of the coolest clutches I've ever had. The worst I saw was after a sustained climb through the trees where I was bouncing between 1/2 throttle and wide open for several minutes. After that pull I could keep my hands on either clutch face for ~ 2 seconds. After a long steady throttle pull, I could keep my hand on either clutch.
All said, I've never done a mod that made this much difference on a sled. Add the fact that it doesn't effect reliability and I have a hard time not recommending it.
One thing a buddy of mine does, that I plan on doing on my stocker, is to thread the tip of your ice scratchers and put one of those nyloc nuts with the built in washer on the end. It GREATLY increases the amount of snow spraying up in the skid/tunnel. The nuts will wear down in time, but as long as you change them before the threads get messed up all is well.
That's a great Idea! I never thought of doing that before. Now that's on my to do list for this week also.
Its the track. I run no T stat and same issue..
X2. Did it to mine last year after the RK TEK Drop in Kit. I'm running the X3 162" with the drop in kit and $28 dollar upgrade. I run 116-128 all day long depending if it is powder or trail.... The X3 throws one hell of a rooster tail though!!! LOL
Got my first ride today on my 3"....are you talking about my sled?
My exact issues.
Well set up snow, lots of sugar on a solid base and about 4" of whore frost.
I will say it vibrates more. I guess I mean that I can feel this track under me.
And it sounds like a po'd hummingbird.
It handled well. I am not seeing any of those reported "flickability" issues yet.
But holy fawhk it hooks up. It's a whole new sled.
Can't wait for the next ride.
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Yeah, I called it whore frost instead of hoar frost.
Yah they move Tons of air, you can hear it Roar!. not vibrate but you can hear it all the way up a climb,WHHHHOOO, From the bottom! and your spot on she hooks up, motor runs hotter. I run 25% hotter, the track needs porting simply to get sno up into the coolers and this helps tremendously,How much porting is subjective.
