Whoisthatguy.... Curious as to what sled you are currently on?
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2014, WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE... PREDICTIONS... RUMORS.
- Thread starter theletup
- Start date
Maybe they should have and option when snowchecking:
No carbon fibre on sled.
Chaincase as option on RMKs
Front heat exchanger.
Tunnel coolers in the middle of tunnel.
Good reliable H.O. motor.
Add a few pounds and stuff won't break.
No carbon fibre on sled.
Chaincase as option on RMKs
Front heat exchanger.
Tunnel coolers in the middle of tunnel.
Good reliable H.O. motor.
Add a few pounds and stuff won't break.
S
snopromod
Well-known member
Maybe you and hoistthatguy should buy trail sleds because you sure dont sound like any mountain rider I have been around!
My RMK is my trail sled and I ride the piss out of it. I do ride the mountains 10 days a year and when I'm there I'm never off the throttle except for lunch.
Maybe you should take off your training wheels and ride that sled like it should be. lol
Maybe you should take off your training wheels and ride that sled like it should be. lol
D
Dizzle
Well-known member
S
snopromod
Well-known member
those training wheels help me sidehill better! In two weeks ill ditch bang it in bear lake, id trying to qualify for jackson hole hillclimb. You mean riding the mountains every weekend isnt enough?
Added some things (wink)
I'd like to see some refinements in the sled...But not throwing the baby out with the bathwater.
To the Roseau engineers and admin in Medina that might read this... I think you have a great sled here... and you HAVE been listening to our input and suggestions and have given us an amazing package in a sled..
Keep working guys, your almost there!!
DRIVETRAIN:
The QD will of course get this through necessity.
1) I'd really like to see a tensioner on the QD and gear ratio options
2) Change out that Hokey 11mm pitch "Proprietary" belt... Sheesh... run the proven 8mm Gates Polychain GT Carbon on there and give up on "one source, "Polaris only" replacement parts mentality for this part.
3) The QD really needs a MUCH more formidable bash-plate or integrated "shoe" under the lower pulley to protect against belt drive hits from those NORMAL things that real world RMK owners encounter in the day-2-day.
4) Ditch the center track driver... it really is just added weight with marginal benefit at best, especially at the track tension that is already required/specified by P.I.
Take the lead from one of your premiere dealers, Struthers... who is running 250+ HP boosted sleds WITHOUT the use of the center driver or other Combo/extro drivers. Time for the engineer that is pushing that feature to re-consider.
5) Put lube ports BACK onto the Jack and Drive shafts... allow us to do PREVENTIVE maintenance on our sleds!!
SUSPENSION:
1) Add bushings to the rear suspension...IMO "Stone-Age" mentality to run aluminum in bare steel tubes with only grease.
2) Make the limiter strap adjustable.
3) Continue to work with Randy at W.E. on refining the shocks... see if you can come up with a better ice-scraper for the shafts that will hold up longer...Talk to any of your premiere dealer/field-R&D inputs that service the shocks... they'll help out!!
4) Rubber stops in the skis:... make them out of a high quality urethane material so they don't eject you in crusty snow when you are turning back uphill.... or make them wider to distibute the load over the entire width of the spindle rather than just half of it.
CHASSIS:
1) Provide just a hair more lug tip clearance to the tunnel for the
2) E-coat the engtire chassis on the LE models to shed snow.
3) Run a 1.5mm UHMW tunnel liner at the front of the tunnel where the 6 lb chunk of ice forms and creates resistance on the PRO RMK's.... Stop focusing on purely dry weight... the riding weight if it holds a 20 lb chunk of ice that decreases driveline efficiency is certainly an in-use serious consideration!
4) Take the stock Running boards to the next level and coat them from the factory like you do the BB's.
5) Make a bumper from PG&A that is actually worth a darn!
ELECTRICAL:
1) Put positive locking connectors on the hi/lo-set/mode-warmer switch connections on the back of the console switches... same with the hand warmer element wires.
2) Move the bundle of ground connections to a place that cannot be broken off when you take a bumper hit and the tab comes loose.
3) Separate the lighting and ECU VR's again... no need to have them in the same unit where if one side fails... it has a strong likelyhood of taking out the other.
4) In this day and age of accessories run a bit better MOSFET VR like the Shindengen regulator on the charging side to provide a reliable DC power source rather than jeopardizing the ECU power supply.
Give consumers a better DC power take off point!!
5) The starter on the ES.... Make the drive more robust and use a starter motor that takes advantage of today's compact/light motor technology.
6) Mount the PERC switch into the clamp for the brake lever like Ride Engineering does on their aftermarket kill switches.
FUEL SYSTEM / OIL:
1) Get rid of that hokey oil tank... take a clue from the RUSH fuel tank and add it as a "Wing" like the rush has to the exhaust side of the sled... More access and get rid of the oil on the clutch side!
2) Make the fuel filter with quick disconnects on BOTH sides of the filter housing itself... For a service item, it is ridiculous that the owner of a snowmobile should pay over $100 for a filter that should cost no more than $25 from the OEM/dealer network.... A QD on either side of the filter canister built into the lines makes the filter A) Easier to change a filter B) Better for the consumer. ... I'm sure that Synerject can pull this off easily.
MFD (Gauge):
1) Run a factory Gauge lifter on the sled with a "chimney" for heat exit on ALL RMK's ... Heck, I know you designed the Instrument to be viewed from a seated position on the 2010 RUSH... but this is the RMK... the hood vents are loaded with snow often... we could use a better view of the gauge and more heat exit... I'm sure you could still work this into the EPA noise/drive-thru test.
2) Is the Kelch gas-cap/gauge REALLY lighter than the sender in the tank??? Put the gauge sender back into the tank... the wiring and PFA are already setup for that... just activate the MFD to take the signal on the RMK's.
ENGINE:
1) KEEP WORKING ON THE ENGINE RELIABILITY in the 2-stroke Cfi
Do another Andes mtns trip this summer and REFINE REFINE REFINE the mapping!
2) Lets see something in a 2 cyl, 4-stroke, NA and Turbo in the RMK... taking advantage of the purchase of tech from acquisition of SwissAuto... 4 stroke, 170 turbo hp, at 480 lbs dry.
Snowcheck options
1) Handlebars
2) Colors
3) Shock choice
4) Track (offer a good aftermarket track as an option)
Snowcheck MUST offer bar height choices... heck... your top riders, Adams and Burandt, both run lower aftermarket bars... and are selling butt-loads of them to others... make this a Snowcheck choice!!
Probably more to come.
.
I'd like to see some refinements in the sled...But not throwing the baby out with the bathwater.
To the Roseau engineers and admin in Medina that might read this... I think you have a great sled here... and you HAVE been listening to our input and suggestions and have given us an amazing package in a sled..
Keep working guys, your almost there!!
DRIVETRAIN:
The QD will of course get this through necessity.
1) I'd really like to see a tensioner on the QD and gear ratio options
2) Change out that Hokey 11mm pitch "Proprietary" belt... Sheesh... run the proven 8mm Gates Polychain GT Carbon on there and give up on "one source, "Polaris only" replacement parts mentality for this part.
3) The QD really needs a MUCH more formidable bash-plate or integrated "shoe" under the lower pulley to protect against belt drive hits from those NORMAL things that real world RMK owners encounter in the day-2-day.
4) Ditch the center track driver... it really is just added weight with marginal benefit at best, especially at the track tension that is already required/specified by P.I.
Take the lead from one of your premiere dealers, Struthers... who is running 250+ HP boosted sleds WITHOUT the use of the center driver or other Combo/extro drivers. Time for the engineer that is pushing that feature to re-consider.
5) Put lube ports BACK onto the Jack and Drive shafts... allow us to do PREVENTIVE maintenance on our sleds!!
SUSPENSION:
1) Add bushings to the rear suspension...IMO "Stone-Age" mentality to run aluminum in bare steel tubes with only grease.
2) Make the limiter strap adjustable.
3) Continue to work with Randy at W.E. on refining the shocks... see if you can come up with a better ice-scraper for the shafts that will hold up longer...Talk to any of your premiere dealer/field-R&D inputs that service the shocks... they'll help out!!
4) Rubber stops in the skis:... make them out of a high quality urethane material so they don't eject you in crusty snow when you are turning back uphill.... or make them wider to distibute the load over the entire width of the spindle rather than just half of it.
CHASSIS:
1) Provide just a hair more lug tip clearance to the tunnel for the
2) E-coat the engtire chassis on the LE models to shed snow.
3) Run a 1.5mm UHMW tunnel liner at the front of the tunnel where the 6 lb chunk of ice forms and creates resistance on the PRO RMK's.... Stop focusing on purely dry weight... the riding weight if it holds a 20 lb chunk of ice that decreases driveline efficiency is certainly an in-use serious consideration!
4) Take the stock Running boards to the next level and coat them from the factory like you do the BB's.
5) Make a bumper from PG&A that is actually worth a darn!
ELECTRICAL:
1) Put positive locking connectors on the hi/lo-set/mode-warmer switch connections on the back of the console switches... same with the hand warmer element wires.
2) Move the bundle of ground connections to a place that cannot be broken off when you take a bumper hit and the tab comes loose.
3) Separate the lighting and ECU VR's again... no need to have them in the same unit where if one side fails... it has a strong likelyhood of taking out the other.
4) In this day and age of accessories run a bit better MOSFET VR like the Shindengen regulator on the charging side to provide a reliable DC power source rather than jeopardizing the ECU power supply.
Give consumers a better DC power take off point!!
5) The starter on the ES.... Make the drive more robust and use a starter motor that takes advantage of today's compact/light motor technology.
6) Mount the PERC switch into the clamp for the brake lever like Ride Engineering does on their aftermarket kill switches.
FUEL SYSTEM / OIL:
1) Get rid of that hokey oil tank... take a clue from the RUSH fuel tank and add it as a "Wing" like the rush has to the exhaust side of the sled... More access and get rid of the oil on the clutch side!
2) Make the fuel filter with quick disconnects on BOTH sides of the filter housing itself... For a service item, it is ridiculous that the owner of a snowmobile should pay over $100 for a filter that should cost no more than $25 from the OEM/dealer network.... A QD on either side of the filter canister built into the lines makes the filter A) Easier to change a filter B) Better for the consumer. ... I'm sure that Synerject can pull this off easily.
MFD (Gauge):
1) Run a factory Gauge lifter on the sled with a "chimney" for heat exit on ALL RMK's ... Heck, I know you designed the Instrument to be viewed from a seated position on the 2010 RUSH... but this is the RMK... the hood vents are loaded with snow often... we could use a better view of the gauge and more heat exit... I'm sure you could still work this into the EPA noise/drive-thru test.
2) Is the Kelch gas-cap/gauge REALLY lighter than the sender in the tank??? Put the gauge sender back into the tank... the wiring and PFA are already setup for that... just activate the MFD to take the signal on the RMK's.
ENGINE:
1) KEEP WORKING ON THE ENGINE RELIABILITY in the 2-stroke Cfi
Do another Andes mtns trip this summer and REFINE REFINE REFINE the mapping!
2) Lets see something in a 2 cyl, 4-stroke, NA and Turbo in the RMK... taking advantage of the purchase of tech from acquisition of SwissAuto... 4 stroke, 170 turbo hp, at 480 lbs dry.
Snowcheck options
1) Handlebars
2) Colors
3) Shock choice
4) Track (offer a good aftermarket track as an option)
Snowcheck MUST offer bar height choices... heck... your top riders, Adams and Burandt, both run lower aftermarket bars... and are selling butt-loads of them to others... make this a Snowcheck choice!!
Probably more to come.
.
Good luck at qualifying. We always need great riders.
Sounds like fun.
I guess what I was looking for in 2014 would be a base model 163.
This way I can add whatever I want.
It would need a chaincase, no carbon fibre parts ,a front cooler, and an 800 H.O.
Sounds like fun.
I guess what I was looking for in 2014 would be a base model 163.
This way I can add whatever I want.
It would need a chaincase, no carbon fibre parts ,a front cooler, and an 800 H.O.
Eric, again, that is a fantastic post.
IN addition to that:
Relocate the VES oil evac line away from the clutches. Route it out the bottom of the belly pan holes under the exhaust side A-arms like many of us do before we ever fire it up the day our sled comes home. Or put a collection jug down below and route it into that.
Tip-up rails? Did we ever hear the rationale for going away from this? I rather liked the tipped-up rails.
How about at least some sort of a fuel meter on the gauge.
Am I just not seeing mine or is there not one?
An additional hot wire pigtail for accessories that is NOT up behind the headlight. Make one available down in the velcro'd bag of wires that goes to the handlebars.
The one you already have up behind the headlight is great, but it's hard to wire in something (like the cordless Teth-air) that doesn't attach to the hood. When you take the hood off and you disconnect the main wire-harness , you also have to disconnect any additional accessory that added with that available pigtail behind the headlight.
IN addition to that:
Relocate the VES oil evac line away from the clutches. Route it out the bottom of the belly pan holes under the exhaust side A-arms like many of us do before we ever fire it up the day our sled comes home. Or put a collection jug down below and route it into that.
Tip-up rails? Did we ever hear the rationale for going away from this? I rather liked the tipped-up rails.
How about at least some sort of a fuel meter on the gauge.
Am I just not seeing mine or is there not one?
An additional hot wire pigtail for accessories that is NOT up behind the headlight. Make one available down in the velcro'd bag of wires that goes to the handlebars.
The one you already have up behind the headlight is great, but it's hard to wire in something (like the cordless Teth-air) that doesn't attach to the hood. When you take the hood off and you disconnect the main wire-harness , you also have to disconnect any additional accessory that added with that available pigtail behind the headlight.
Lots more good quality carbon fiber, improved QD, reinforced driveshaft, more carbon fiber, coated chassis, and some more carbon fiber...
I would really like to see them coat the chassis with never wet. Would be simple, easy to apply, reduce the riding weight without increasing the dry weight, and I, as a consumer can't buy it to spray on myself!
O and a 4 stroke turbo under 450 lbs in the pro chassis. /direct injection 800 option.
H
High Velocity
Well-known member
Another PLP.
C
clamlake600
Well-known member
I heard something about a flex track, but different from skidoos....hmmmm.
Would love to see the 120 in a pro chassis
I would love to see a base model RMK 163 option with maximum cooling ability... my 09 base RMK 700 was running 30-50*F cooler than a friend's brand new '13 PRO was on hardpack last weekend because of his restricted cooling capacity, ridiculous!!!
Give the option of bar cluster or console switches and don't lock that into the Base or Pro categories as has been the case since 2009. I like being able to make changes on the fly without taking my hands off the bars.
Give us back the steel driveshaft that has been proven since 2005 and a belt drive that can be re-geared and tensioned, or just go back to the chaincase.
Add better reinforcement to the front of the tunnel where the 'crumple zone' has been so well documented. There is a threshold of being too light in the wrong areas, and a minor bump shouldn't be something to be worried about. Remember back in '08 when the XP was at the mercy of being totaled by a Pine Cone and the IQ was the most resilient chassis on the snow... You better look again.
Spend some time on RELIABILITY so we don't have to worry every time we drop down into a bowl or get 20 miles away from the truck wondering if we are going to make it back.
I agree on the base model 163....i prefer the chain case, I like the bars better, throw on some Raptors and ride it. And I hate carbon fiber....work around that stuff every day and much prefer aluminum. Beef up the rear half of the tunnel too, or at least include a rubber mallet to straighten after every ride. Improve the wiring harness quality...hopefully without the made in China label and try out some of that dielectric silicon gel to avoid those pesky moisture problems.
I like the seat, track, skis, front susp except the shocks, and the clutches.....but how about stepping into the 21st century with the Team Tied??
I like the seat, track, skis, front susp except the shocks, and the clutches.....but how about stepping into the 21st century with the Team Tied??
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LMAO couldn't have said that better myself. My rear part of tunnel looks like an alluminum can that I crushed then tried to staighten back out. I have bent it or dented it in all over from just kicking the snow off it... What a joke.. Dealer told me I had 4 grand worth of damage to the sled cause the tunnel is totalled... lol whatever you say bud
2014 Rumors?
Where did all the rumors go? Surely with only a few weeks to go until the new releases somebody knows something? This is going to be my first time to snowcheck and I want to get excited!
Where did all the rumors go? Surely with only a few weeks to go until the new releases somebody knows something? This is going to be my first time to snowcheck and I want to get excited!
The rumors that I'm hearing is Refine Refine Refine... and of course BNG.
I still don't discount the 2 stroke rumor in a RMK... that would be cool... but probably unlikely.
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I still don't discount the 2 stroke rumor in a RMK... that would be cool... but probably unlikely.
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RMK-King
Super-Moderator
Quoted from sledrumors.com
"2014 Polaris Snowmobiles
2014 Polaris Pro RMK’s will come with machined billet pulleys on the QuickDrive instead of cast for improved belt life under abusive situations. There are options for more power, but will Polaris make a move or rely on aftermarket? Boondockers Turbo has proven a reliable companion to the ProRMK and successful big bore applications satisfy the power craving in deep powder. Watch for the 2014 Polaris Pro RMK 800 to also have a power boosted option for 2014."
"2014 Polaris Snowmobiles
2014 Polaris Pro RMK’s will come with machined billet pulleys on the QuickDrive instead of cast for improved belt life under abusive situations. There are options for more power, but will Polaris make a move or rely on aftermarket? Boondockers Turbo has proven a reliable companion to the ProRMK and successful big bore applications satisfy the power craving in deep powder. Watch for the 2014 Polaris Pro RMK 800 to also have a power boosted option for 2014."
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