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2012 PRO 800 Bogging

I was riding my 2012 800 PRO today in deep powder and three times when I let off the throttle slightly and went back to full throttle it bogged down resulting in a stuck. Initially I thought it was deep powder conditions that were restricting exhaust flow and intake as my hood was completely covered in snow. I changed the spark plugs and that didn't help. I noticed that my throttle was iced up and would not completely go back to the full off position. I never experienced this on the trail as I was on the way home, only in deep powder while turning. I read a few threads that recommended tightening the throttle cable. What does everyone think? Thanks
 
i am experiencing the same type of bog except it happens all the time powder or hard pack. Mine is a 13 but when you hold it at full throttle for like 10 seconds then it bogs. Tried spark plugs but doesn't seem to matter.
 
I have a similar issue with my 2011, usually happens when I am working it hard in deep powder and get out of the throttle and then back on it again same as your's.

I was told to try different fuel, that helped for a few rides, but I am now back to the same problem and it is worse then before.
 
My 12 has the exact same issues. I've had it at the dealer three times, first time they adjusted the throttle cable and TPS sensor, they said that the tps was towards the low end of the tolerance so they put it in the middle. Second time they did nothing but talked to polaris for 3 hours and told me that I needed to put my snow flap back on.. I told them to order new injectors. So the 3rd time they installed new injectors at customers request.
I'm fairly certain that the bog occurs when engine temp is somewhere between 90 & 100 degrees and rpms are around 4-5k. I've also experienced a hesitation at WOT too.
I haven't been riding since the new injectors but will update.
163 Bone stock hold over 12, 450 miles .
 
Keep us posted on how it works with the new injectors. I really want to get rid of my bog, my 755 I had last never bogged and that is about the only thing I miss about it.
 
Keep us posted on how it works with the new injectors. I really want to get rid of my bog, my 755 I had last never bogged and that is about the only thing I miss about it.

I have it too.. been to the dealer 4 or 5 times now. Re-synced throttle bodies, new fuel, new injectors, new fuel lines, new reeds, new primary spring, and multiple re-flashes. not as bad, but it still has the bog. last year they said tweak two or three pins in the ecu...no thanks! Please let us know if you find a definite solution..
 
You guys ever have the check engine lite come on? Any codes? I had similar symtoms. One was "Stuck Throttle" and the other was mag side injector circuit. Replaced the ecm/ecu and problem gone.
 
Yes I have had the c.e.l. come on when "the bog" occurs. Dealer said it was a stuck throttle code.
 
My wifes did this and they first adjusted the tps and it went away for 1 ride. Second time they replaced tps and it worked for another ride. Finally threw an injector code. Replaced injectors and no more problems. Mine only needed a new tps. When it started acting up dealer just replaced it as to not keep messing with it. Injector code on wifes sled was only code thrown on either sled.
 
I was riding my 2012 800 PRO today in deep powder and three times when I let off the throttle slightly and went back to full throttle it bogged down resulting in a stuck. Initially I thought it was deep powder conditions that were restricting exhaust flow and intake as my hood was completely covered in snow. I changed the spark plugs and that didn't help. I noticed that my throttle was iced up and would not completely go back to the full off position. I never experienced this on the trail as I was on the way home, only in deep powder while turning. I read a few threads that recommended tightening the throttle cable. What does everyone think? Thanks

Here in Tahoe, when we have deep pow it is heavier and stickier. Sometimes snow will build up between throttle block and flipper causing the TSS to think the throttle is stuck open. Happens when rolling out of throttle and back on. Now my TSS switch is taped shut-- I ALWAYS run my tether--and I don't get that particular bog.

I used to get that bog if I was cranking turns in deep pow. If I rolled off throttle and stabbed it, it would sometimes bog-- ended up being the algorithm in the ECU to prevent over rev in the event of a broken belt. If the track was on edge and spinning up too fast (according to the ECU) it would cut out for a split second. Slightly heavier (heel bias) primary weights helped alleviate that problem versus 10-62 at 6-8000'.
 
Dad and I spend 2 hours tonight going through the list of things that could be wrong. We reset the TPS, cleaned the exhaust valves, checked compression, and went through the clutches. Just got back in from a short ride and it seems to have cleared up my problem, but won't be a for sure until I can take it out for a real ride.
 
Had the exact same problem happen to me when working hard in deep powder.

The dealer had it in three separate times and tried different fixes.

As other posters have stated above, the problem didn't go away until they replaced the ECU.
 
Similar issues with my 2011 Pro. Had it to Dealer to make sure TPS was set correctly and check and clear any codes. Still had a bog while testing.
As an alternative check the tech unplugged the hoses to the power valves .
NO MORE hesitating or bogging . Turns out the power valve solenoid was faulty to some degree . Replaced solenoid and engine is running smooth and strong after 100+ miles.
Something easy to check at home. worked for me.
 
If you have a polaris tether this could be causing it. Wiggle the rubber boot to see if it sputters while idling. This first happened to a friend of mine on his 12 pro then same thing on my 13. You can put a small screw into the rubber boot to make sure it fully depresses the button on your kill switch.
 
New injectors and I'm still getting the dreadful bog! I guess I need to tell the dealer to put in a new ECU!
 
X2 on the tether. I unplugged mine and it ran like it was supposed to plugged it back in same issue. Remove the large washer off the back it allows the actuater to be pushed more and your problem is solved.
 
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