I see what you mean about the rub bars on the front swing arm with smaller drivers. A guy could put a set of wheels in there or better yet a K-Mod that has wheels there instead of the wear bars 
15" wide cammo 162 x 3"
- Thread starter glassman
- Start date
In sever cases. I was more referring to the occasional "kiss" not a "whack" from a poor set up or tensioned suspension.
True, but not tight enough that would cause any damage.
The vinyl would be good for a little while...but would get torn up in short order IMO... Ice chunks, dirt, rocks etc...
Eric, I will throw in some knowledge that I gained back in the dragon days with the 2.5 camo extreme with and without a D&R..both machines improved performance on the hill up until the snow went over 2.5 ft. of fresh..once fresh snow exceeded 2.5 ft. the tight tunnel clearence had noticable problems getting up on step anytime it lost momentum, where the D&R open tunnel excelled with slow speed mobility.. We experienced this many times, and regardless of settings/adjustments nothing we found improved the mobility of the tight clearenced tunnel...now..for those who dont want to do a D&R on a pro..I am confident I know a way to fit a 3" with at least stock clearence..it will take some work, done right I doubt the average person could tell it had been modded, and it should allow stock handling/feel to be maintained..
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And how is that? Mike. Im curious
And how is that? Mike. Im curious
LOL...i suppose I should have expected that..basically..the frt edge of the coolers are the tightest point..so ...tear the tunnel down add .5" taller tunnel sides, rework the frt roll of the closeoff to bring it right up to the jack shaft, and then carefully recontour the tank mnts, and console to allow for the raised tunnel....done right, it looks like you could open this as much as .75" without any further modifications,it is work, but nothing to hard for anyone with some minor fab skills...everything else but the tunnel top,seat, and fuel tank stays exactly where it started. since nothing else moved the chances of it changing handling is extremely low, reliability wont be affected(actually if the new sides are done right it will be much stronger/stiffer), weight gain would be less then a pd or two, and fit and finish should be excelent..any locals want to do it..let me know..I will work you a deal on it...
Eric, this 3m paint protection tape(urethane based) will keep snow buildup down and withstand rocks,sticks,ice and such..it works very good...
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Scotchgard_Paint_Protection/Film/
Why not just add extended chaincase.
theres a few things I didnt like about the D&R as far as handling, having the drivers hanging out further and such...personal preference really ..but it is noticable....also..as of right now..to extend a 13 poo you have to change both the belt and the pulleys since polaris uses a special belt...so instead of just buying an extended case and belt, you are now buying a complete belt drive..
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Very good idea, to bad your so far away or i'd drag my sled over today...lol...but i'm going to give this a good hard look when I drag her out in a few weeks. May just slice the entire tunnel in half and add a "strip" all the way around. I usually pull everything apart each year anyhow.
I was thinking bout installing a CE 2.5 on my 11 Pro, now I'm looking at the 3". I currently have a 155, but was gonna up it to 163 with the 2.5. My question is: Is the 3" track designed for higher HP applications such as boost etc? Is there more hp loss running the 3"? Heavier track and more bite. My engine is stock but I have C3 extended d&r belt drive coming for it, so clearance is not an issue.
Question #2: What would it take to install a Standard RMK cooler in the front of the Pro tunnel? Or would a guy just be better off getting an add on rear cooler for extra cooling? I like the idea of having added clearance with the D&R but if it just fills up with ice why not install the cooler up front to melt it all.
Oh yeah, why would you coat the bottom side of the tunnel with HDPE or UHMW? Isn't that where you want the snow to be to cool the sled? I can see having it up front but not on the bottm of the tunnel.
Question #2: What would it take to install a Standard RMK cooler in the front of the Pro tunnel? Or would a guy just be better off getting an add on rear cooler for extra cooling? I like the idea of having added clearance with the D&R but if it just fills up with ice why not install the cooler up front to melt it all.
Oh yeah, why would you coat the bottom side of the tunnel with HDPE or UHMW? Isn't that where you want the snow to be to cool the sled? I can see having it up front but not on the bottm of the tunnel.
i hear ya on the drivers down lower. I made a a spacer which drops the skid plate 3/4 inch near the driver . This puts the driver drop exactly same as stock for piece of mind. Also the 3 inch paddles take any hit/shock and flex well to protect the axle
Snow only belongs three places on a sled, under the skis, under the track / hyfax, and on the coolers long enough to cool the engine before melting and dropping off. Anywhere else it is a penalty, weather needless weight, friction, or plugging the incoming air.
As to the rest of your ?'s others will need to reply.
After speaking with an individual who you all know but I wont mention names, They had 2 new pros 163. One got a pump gas Turbo and the other got a 3 inch.Both were nose to nose on a climb in fresh bottomless. Thats what a 3 inch will do.
Also the 3 inch will make a sled run a tad hotter on the trail so I keep the cooler
You dont cover the entire tunnel..just where there is no coolers at, the idea is to stop the build up of snow/ice...very common for the sled to pack 40+ pds of snow/ice around...frt cooler will go right into a pro rmk, not sure it is quite as good as one of the good rear tunnel coolers that the after market provides as far as cooling ability...
My thought on adding the standard cooler would be to eliminate snow build up in the front of the tunnel.
How well of a job does powder coating a tunnel do of reducing snow build up inside?
