Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

14 pro bully dog silber bogging

I ride 5000-8000 feet. If I let off the throttle quick and get back on it right away baro changes and it boggs. Baro should only change with elevation. Is baro changing for anyone else when quickly on and off throttle while under boost? You need to watch the baro pid before letting the throttle all the way off to see if it has changed.
 
I ride 5000-8000 feet. If I let off the throttle quick and get back on it right away baro changes and it boggs. Baro should only change with elevation. Is baro changing for anyone else when quickly on and off throttle while under boost? You need to watch the baro pid before letting the throttle all the way off to see if it has changed.

I assume the barosensor is located under the hood. Here's a thought.
When you let of the trottle, the brv valve opens, and actually let out compressed air in your engine compartment. Rising underhood air pressure, which in turn will affect the pressure that baro sensor reads. I know that engine compartment is well ventilated, but barometric pressure is not much , so just a tiny change in the airpressure, will result inn different readings.
So let say when you are off/and on trootle in a second, brv opens, and turbo are still spooling and creating high airflow when you open trottle again, it might happend that the brv not manage to close for a second or to after you stab it, letting pressurized airflow from turbo escape out the brv in the engine compartment, raising the reading of the barosensor.
 
I ride 5000-8000 feet. If I let off the throttle quick and get back on it right away baro changes and it boggs. Baro should only change with elevation. Is baro changing for anyone else when quickly on and off throttle while under boost? You need to watch the baro pid before letting the throttle all the way off to see if it has changed.


what RPM is that at?
 
Nytro41- wot usually 8000-8200 rpm.

Daltech- Baro reads off the tmap which is in the charge tube and is reseting while boost is still present. I would think it should only reset at no throttle and idle or low rpm. I even cut the blowoff valve spring short enough that the bov bounces open and closed at idle in attempt to release the charge pressure faster, no help. Basically I'm just curious if everyone else's does this or there's something wrong with my firmware in the ecu.
 
I dont know. I will check that out next time I go riding.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
Nytro41- wot usually 8000-8200 rpm.

Daltech- Baro reads off the tmap which is in the charge tube and is reseting while boost is still present. I would think it should only reset at no throttle and idle or low rpm. I even cut the blowoff valve spring short enough that the bov bounces open and closed at idle in attempt to release the charge pressure faster, no help. Basically I'm just curious if everyone else's does this or there's something wrong with my firmware in the ecu.

so where is the bog exactly. if it is when you let off and get back on it. what ive noticed is its when the Exhaust Valves closed and open. what happens is the exhaust Valves close then when you snap on the throttle again it takes 1 second for them to open again. (i think its one second i am not 100% sure)
so it is actually lean at that point. what needs to happen is fuel is needing to be added at about 6300 RPM to 6700 RPM on Exhuast Valves Closed and then take away some fuel at same RPM on Exhaust valves Open. on mine it was low throttle % but higher Rpm..
just a thought but it fixed my sled. i dont know if your having the same issue.
 
Yes it happens when I let off and get back on it.
I can't adjust fuel with the bullydog.
 
Last edited:
I spoke to Justin on Friday about everything, didnt come out and admit there is a problem but told me they hope to know more by mid week... Its mid week now, update please Boston or Silber??
 
Nytro41- wot usually 8000-8200 rpm.

Daltech- Baro reads off the tmap which is in the charge tube and is reseting while boost is still present. I would think it should only reset at no throttle and idle or low rpm. I even cut the blowoff valve spring short enough that the bov bounces open and closed at idle in attempt to release the charge pressure faster, no help. Basically I'm just curious if everyone else's does this or there's something wrong with my firmware in the ecu.



Yes my Baro resets everytime I would blip the throttle and when the stutter occurs.
 
Another update on our progress to eliminate our bogging issue:

- Decided to remove the throttle position sensor to inspect. Noticed the sensor has 2 ways the sensor can engage throttle body actuator. I did not pay close attention when we removed it might have been possible to be indexed incorrectly - I doubt it but possibly. The sensor has a wide slot and a narrow slot for the throttle body to engage. If the sensor is mounted in the larger slots, this would allow the sensor to possibly not rotate consistently. Just a thought.

- Used volt meter to check operation of throttle block stuck throttle switches. Throttle off measured 4k ohms and 2k ohms throttle on. However, during the transition between the switch we would see an open condition. I understand this circuit is designed to give an open condition if the throttle is stuck but I don't think we should see that during normal operating conditions. It might be possible for one of the switches to be sticking and not snap back to normal position causing a short time open condition in the circuit. I imagine the ECU sees this condition and shuts off spark until the switch finally closes. Just my theory. I ended up cutting the end off the switch side of the harness and soldering in a 10K ohm resistor just to bypass the switch circuit entirely.

- I gapped the plugs to .017 (down from .020). I was told that under boost it is better to have a tighter gap.

- Installed a Dobec Gen 4 fuel controller. This kit comes with an air / fuel gauge. I set it into a monitoring mode so I could watch the A/F during the normal operation of the Bulldog.

Results:
- Previously, I was having issues with the check engine light coming on and engine stuttering when I just let off the throttle or was just taking off from a stop. This problem is gone!!

- The sled ran great with no issues from 6-8000 feet.

- Once I got above 8,000 foot level started to have some small bogging issues especially right after I would restart the engine. After 5 minutes the bogging would go away. I think it has something to do with the coolant temperature. When starting after sitting with the sled off for 5 minutes the temp gauge would spike to 150 degrees then drop off to 100 the build back up to 127 - 130. Once the engine got back to the 130 range it would run better.

- Also notice the higher the elevation the worse the sled ran. I then took the Dobec Gen 4 out of monitoring mode into active mode to help the Bulldog correct the fuel. I played around with the settings for a couple of hours and by the end of the day I had the sled running great at high elevations. Only one small area I am still getting a "burp" that must be around the spot where the Dobec starts correcting the fuel.


Next steps:

- Taking the spark plug gaps back to .020. Hoping this solves the initial start-up bogging.

Hope this helps


Update:

- Taking plugs back to .020 cleaned up bottom end studder.

- The GEN 4 control box fixed most of the bogging issues. I still get one small one when I just start to move the throttle. I suspect happens just as the Dobec starts controlling fuel. As we got higher in the altitude I started to get some bogging but made a couple of minor adjustments and it went away.

I think if you do the things I mentioned in this entire posting you will solve most of your bogging issues.
 
Ya...so your back to punching buttons with elevation change just like I had to do last year. Total BS. This is not what we were sold with the bullydog. I would just like somebody to make a map that worked for my sled. What ever I have right now is close but is not right.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
How did MTNTK get it figured?? Has anyone tried one of their Bullydog maps with the KPA turbo/larger injectors?
 
Ya...so your back to punching buttons with elevation change just like I had to do last year. Total BS. This is not what we were sold with the bullydog. I would just like somebody to make a map that worked for my sled. What ever I have right now is close but is not right.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Yes, it sucks but decided I need to make my sled run and quit waiting around for a fix. I highly doubt you will ever see an update. Even if a new map is created, I learned Bullydog charges something like $200 for a reflash of an ECU and I doubt anybody will be willing to pay more money for this. The Dobec kit seems works and it comes with an A/F gauge.
 
Ok so I have a dobec controller from my 12 silber kit already and I already have a O2 so basically I need to have my dobec reprogrammed for what? A stock sled? How did you order your dobec? (Configuration wise). Im thinking vipec is the way. Then I have an ecu that can follow me from sled to sled and never have to worry about this bs.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
I just had a good talk with Cory. Rest assured he and Justin are working overtime trying to find a solution to the bog and other issues. Justins time is better spent working on a solution than coming on here for sure. Keep up the good work and hope you have a break through soon.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
I'm going to take mine to vohk. Eric said he would put a boondocker box on it and get it dialed in so that this winter won't be completely wasted. Should've just got a boondocker turbo. I can't even sell this sled because nobody wants this turbo kit.
 
Be like many others and remove kit, sell or keep sled, and lick your wounds. Totally reminds me of the PSI days and the wonderful owner of that company. I got it much harder this time though. Maybe next year when the new awesome Silber kit comes out, I can get some of my loss back selling my paperweight in pieces on ebay and I can forget this fiasco. I don't have it in me to try and sell this POS to anybody. That would be just plain mean. Don't hold your breath boys. If they find an answer before spring, you will probably not like the answer. Obviously, MNTK did a lot of testing to make theirs work. Obviously this is not the case here.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top