Yamadoo remodeling

[Yamaha_nisse]

Thanks, googled a bit and found some threads you have answered in.. Looked like your first plans started like 2 years ago

I'm from Sweden my self and calculated that I'll save 10$ every 60miles running LPG.. In a season that's some cash. And sure I can tweek up the boost!!

You don't want to PM me the parts you used (part #) would be great (they had alot of different parts)..

One more thought, when the tank is starting to running low, don't the pressure in the tank starting to drop then.. 4
Say when it's about 25% left, is the pressure the same as when the tank is filled at 80%..

Thanks
Rasmus

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

I have been thinking about this system for just about 2 years. My buddy at college had a dual fuel truck and that got me started.. then I went 4 stroke.. so it all came together this season.

I will just make another brief statement on propane systems and function.

In the automotive type propane systems like mine, the regulator has coolant run throught it. This is done because pressure in a propane tank is dependent HIGHLY on temperature, so, as long as there is liquid in the tank flowing down to the regulator getting coolant on it, your going to see more then enough pressure... The propane delivered to the mixer from the regulator is very low pressure, so it needs almost none in the tank to run/start. propane turns from a liquid to a gas at -44* So theoretically you cant ride colder then that unless you heat the tanks a bit.. But personally I wont ever be out then... let alone thinking about sledding. propane expands 270x when it evaporates, SO, 1 drop of liquid equates to quite a bit more vapor, meaning that just a tiny bit of liquid fuel can create enough pressure in the tanks to drive the system.

The pressure will be affected by level, but primarly by the temperature of the tanks.. The tunnel cooler runs right along beneath the tanks, and heat from the motor will be blowing onto the front, so I am confident there will be MORE then enough heat to keep tank pressure plenty high. here is just a little chart for more info.

 

[Yamaha_nisse]

Been searching alot now on the internet and found these mixers..

Well my tought was to put this on the charge tube before the IC. And use the carbs. as throttle boddies?

Do you think that could work? Should be alot less work to do it that way, then you don't need to fab new manifolds etc.
And, should the second BOV be placed between the carbs and engine? To prevent flooding.

Thanks

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

Those are very interesting looking.

I already sold my carbs.. I was gonna use them as throttle boddies, but the issue was that in my setup, they forecd the airbox to close to the steering post and it would rub, getting rid of the carbs is allowing me to knock out a bunch of space... and my old airbox/manifold wasnt the best design.

as for mixers.. I am going to be running an impco 200 series one. Its what brads hp3 setups run, but his have a billet cap on top, and possibly a different gas valve... I dont know.

as far as the BOV, I will be installing only 1, but I think I understand where it needs to be placed to work properly alone, there might be some compresser surge on the turbo, but the thing shouldnt flood, which is my bigger concern.

I am also figuring out still what to do for lines/fittings on the tanks as I think I am gonna just get a large tank and then fill the sled ones on my own so as not to have to deal with tricking people into filling my tanks, after discussing with my propane dealer buddy, it seems like the wisest idea as even if tanks have the right valves a lot of places just wont fill them because they arent normal looking tanks and it concerns them. If I do it all on my own.. I will be setup, so I can top off right when I unload the sled, fill it up, then go ride.

 

[Yamaha_nisse]

Ah, ok.
Will look into those mixers as well.

More info came up when I contacted a few LPG fanatics (not sledders, but on std cars).
They gave me a BIG warning to use mixer setup on Turbocharged engine, because using that setup will cause some serious backfire.

Hum, I'm quite stalled atm. I know it works due to HP3 uses mixer and not injection systems.
But how have they gotten around the backfire problem that all the people I've talked to claim would be a serious problem?

Only thing I came up with was to put the mixer REALLY close to the engine (less volume, less backfire). But they still told me to be aware of big backfires....

Any ideas?

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

As long as you dont have tons of charge tube.. its not really a big idea.. dont pipe it throught the intercooler, as thats a LOT of surface area and not as strong as piping. As far as dealing with backfires. I have really not had annyone talk to me about that being an issue.. Yes it can happen, and its a little more scary, but it should be tuned relatively closely, resulting in no backfires.. In all my crazy arse testing on my sled last season I never had it backfire and I did some pretty stupid stuff as far as air fuel ranges.. Either way. I am not quite there yet as I have a lot of crap to get welded up before I get to that stage in the system.

Also, you say 'causes' backfires. Im not sure what would cause a backifire with it setup like that? I mean it will propogate a backfire as theres more air/fuel in the intact tract, but it seems like it shouldnt be a big deal IMO. I guess I will find out.

 

[Thunderguy BOOSTED]

my god dude!! you have so serious skills!! epic build........

 

[Yamaha_nisse]

Well, not sure either what they ment. They didn't tell me in specific what would cause it.
A niceley tuned in engine shouldn't backfire (only engine I've ownd who backfired was an old carb volvo 142 lol).

Well back to topic.

How will you do with the TPS?

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

the throttle body I have has a TPS sensor on it, just needs some cut/splicing.

BUT, I do need to find out wtf tps sensors do on a carbed motor.. there really isnt anything the computer needs to know for carbs.. just timing, which is based on rpm.

 

[Yamaha_nisse]

Haha yeah.

Have no frekkin idea myself.
But as the TPS is directly connected to the ignition unit (ECU) it should have something to do with the igntion.. I GUESS!

What throttle boddie did you use? The one impco supplies or another one?

And maybe a more important question from all of us, when are you planning to crank it up for the first time?

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

I had a pair of throttle bodies of my ski-doo 1000 motor I sold out of the sled. I just split them, and am using the one with the TPS, it also has the adapter for the throttle cable on it already, so that worked out very well. I just need to build a flange to adapt the plate on the back of the mixer to a 2.5" tube so I can plumb everything inline.

As far as projected running date, I want it ready and on the snow before october, we usually get early storms around then, and I want to be able to get out and test on it. I just am waiting to go back to college this weekend and start getting some welding done on the beast.

 

[t_thall]

the throttle body I have has a TPS sensor on it, just needs some cut/splicing.

BUT, I do need to find out wtf tps sensors do on a carbed motor.. there really isnt anything the computer needs to know for carbs.. just timing, which is based on rpm.

I think the timing is different for different throttle positions also
ie: wide open at 1000 rpm or wide open at 9000

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

I think the timing is different for different throttle positions also
ie: wide open at 1000 rpm or wide open at 9000

that was my only thought.. oh well, I will dig deeper, see how it works, and then wire up the one I got.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

WELL... got my sled down to college with me and back in a garage.. thank goodness. the alley situation was getting kinda old.

I took ALL the plastics off and am currently working on where all the crap on the sled is gonna get mounted.

I am toying with the idea of running no plastics, then just building tube framed side panels with aluminum skinned bottoms, and totally meshed out top.. Also, this would allow me to mesh over the whole nose of the sled resulting in a HUGE vent situation, and the intercooler getting retarted airflow, also, I would sorta rebuild my tube front bumper so it would be somewhat like a nytro setup as I would no longer have a nose cone, SO the bumper would get a litting sheeting on the bottom to create a float plate so the sled wouldnt just stick into everything. sorta float over it hopefully. my main goal with the removal of all the plastics.. etc etc.. is I actually think I can loose some weight off the sled, simlify things, and trim the thing up a bit as the stock plastics on the RT are rather bulky, resulting in more impacts, hung up.. just overall bigg body. the mesh and aluminum side sheets would just have little snaps to hold them down, like the ones on jeans you wear.. This would allow all the panels to easily be taken on/off, or replaced as need be.

I will be picking up some material and playing with the thing more hopefully this weekend, and talking to my welder buddy about how the panels would be build/supported.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

been a while, so figured I would throw an update up. well, ended up desciding that most of the plastic is going back on, just getting a tube front bumper/belly pan with meshed skin to flow lots of air into the IC...

I have made some progress, starting to get after it now, getting closer to winter.. header is half welded up, downpipe is done, charge tubing is getting worked on slowly, probably about half done. Intake manifold is my last big hurtle before I can get to crazy and start the thing. Just been spending a lot of time working on how to mount stuff now so its clean and doesnt suck...

motor mounts also need a little massaging to get things exactly how I want them.. but very close. Needs lots more working on, but getting closer.

thanks jskattum606 for the welding, ski's, and pressing the drivers on.
inked rider for the free track.. gonna work out SLICK!

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

figured I would get some pictures up here.. nothing TO crazy..

downpipe is done, header just needs the turbo flange finish welded, lines are all run to turbo. Just need final attachment. Charge tube needs some slight massaging to get around a brace I built, other then that its run. Intercooler needs outlet pipe welded and installed. intercooler itself is mounted and has the fan behind it.. hooked it up and it pulls nice, moves a LOT of air.. Gotta get my propane mixer outlet flange finished. Lots of little crap to do, but its really starting to move now as im getting pretty amped about the buggy. intake manifold is also coming along really well, just needs to be cleaned up and the ends capped. intake is also getting a 90 so its up a little higher.. but still behind things protected from snow.

and my girlfriend hating on my sled.. as it is kinda like her competition.

 

[sledfvr]

and my girlfriend hating on my sled.. as it is kinda like her competition.

LMAO! My wife used to like sledding and now I thinks she hates it. I know exactly what you're talking about. Looks like it's coming along nicely.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

I got a bunch more cap done up today.. avids are on, skid is back in with my new track.. got some more welding on parts done. Shes getting somewhere now that im actually working on the stupid thing, just still busy with college and cutting firewood for extra money to pay for it.. kinda viscous cycle.. need time to make money, then If I have money I have no time to use it.

 

[relentless rider]

On your intake tube,is the propane going to get evenly distributed to each cylinder? looks like the first two cylinders are going to pull more fuel.Like on the rx1 intercoolers there is a plate inside to equalease pressure to each cylinder.

 

[relentless rider]

Just looked at your youtube videos,looks like she ran good.Nice job building this sled,i thank its cool as heck!!Should work even better this winter.