Yamadoo remodeling

[Wheel House Motorsports]

you basically summer up my issue, and im dealing with it accordingly, the issue is that if the bolt only has support on one side, it can twist the rubber mount like you said, I just need to have tabs on either side that dont allow it to do that, and I layed my rear mount on the kitchen counter(nice and level) it rocks kinda funny, the thing has a nice tweak in it by the right clutch side mount, would explain my shortened center to center issue. i am working on rebuilding the motor mounts bigger and stronger, and still somewhat light. I can also move the motor around a hair due to the fact that I no longer have a giant carb rack that is trying to clear the steering post, so that allows me to make the mounts not all tiny and twisted..

also, the ups man came today... GOT PROPANE!??? The system is stupid simple, and this is the fuel defivery system minus the tanks.

Line in from the tank throught a lockoff valve that is activated when the sled is cranking/on, this makes sure that high pressure propane isnt pushing on stuff when the sled is off. then to the regulator, it runs coolant throught it to make sure the engine is only seeing vapor propane. then I will connect a line that runs the propane vapor into the propane mixer(carb) I need to fabricate a adapter to go from the square bolt pattern to 2.5" pipe to connect to my throttle body, other then that, its pretty freakin simple, as far as boost referencing, there is a labeled balance port on the mixer and the regulator, you just hook a line between them and bam, its ready for boost. the nice thing about the propane carbs is that there are 2 knobs to adjust tuning, the idle one and the WOT one, which just dials from R<->L that being rich to lean, its stupid simeple, so should be damn easy to tune. I got most mounting locations already figured out, this weekend I will most likely get the regulter mounted and the lines for it plumed in. enough blabbing, heres a picture of the parts laying on the floor.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

Well, worked on my front motor mounts today, got them pretty much the way I like them, They are both just double layer chunks of road sign, so when I get a chance, they will be welded around the edge to create one thick layer. they also are gonna get a couple more bolts per side holding them into the chassis. But when you lay them on top of one another, I would say they are within 1/32" of exactly the same, so a LOT better then before. also gonna be running a big throught bolt to keep things in check. heres a quick picture of the new mounts bolted in. Im impressed with how close they came out considering they were made with a sawzall in an alley. Im also using parts of my old front mounts to hold the through rod in place, thus eliminating almost any flex that could exist.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

well.. A productive weekend to say the least. I got a LOT done today. mounts are 90% done. I am gonna pull the rear one back out to clean up edges and paint, and reinstall another little hanger to support the throught rod on the front right corner of the motor. I put a long straight edge against the machined edge on the back side of the primary and it runs damn near perfectly along the tunnel all the way to the end of the running boards, it might angle like 1/8" over 4'.... before you could look at the motor and see it sitting crooked, it would have easily been 2-3" off at that distance. I also build a small bracket that ties the front and rear of the bulkhead together, I see this as a very large benefit as I had made some small notching in the factory bracing in the bottom of the bulkhead and feal that it weakend the structure of it somewhat, even thought its got some aluminum angle welded on.. This brace creates a sort of box around the motor giving the bulkhead MUCH more structure, I also plan on installing a similar stype brace on the mag side as well. I know that this motor makes a LOT more power then the chassis was designed for(and doo isnt know for strength to start), so I am trying to lock thigs together as much as possible as last season truely showed me what to much flex can do, blow belts, rubbing lines.. lots of stupid problems caused by laziness.

enough blabbing, on to the pictures... The rear mount isnt exactly light.. but its damn strong..

 

[jskattum606]

I think that chromoly Rod will do wonders for chassis flex. Should help keep those clutches true under power. good deal

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

Well.. I ordered up some tanks. If it works out correctly, I should be able to mount them under the seat with just a little carving, this will be a nice "stealth" look, minus the intake coming out where the gas tank should be.

Also time to go cut a hole in the tunnel and redo the tunnel dump setup.
Got luckey and theres a coolant line from the carb heater system in the main lines, so plumbing coolant to the turbo is gonna be easy as pie. Its time to start running lines and mounting propane parts. I do have to wait to get some welding on my intercooler and header done before I can go to crazy.

 

[Thunderguy BOOSTED]

TTT

 

[Yamaha_nisse]

Ah, very nice work!

Where did you get the propane parts from?
Looks pretty sweet...

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

Thanks, the propane parts came from helmar inc.. they are nothing fancy, just run of the mill impco parts. With the tanks I just picked up and my fittings/lines, and I need a few more, I am into propane $500 almost dead even, But I cheated and am using air tanks instead of propane, so not certified, so I have to fill them. Either way with the spare parts I had laying around, I might finish out my conversion at about $600 ish.

Santa (UPS man) came today, got the tanks, took the sawzall to the stock seat, now I have a custom deal. the stock 05 doo seats arent light, but mine now might weight 5#.. not the softest as it only has like 2-3" of foam over the tanks, but once the tanks get painted black, it shuold look pretty sneaky. Also got my turbo inlet situated for now, I like it as its behind the little wind deflector on the side panel, should help with deep pow clogging, and I can get to it and knock the snow off really easy compared to up out the front. Downpipe is ready, just needs to be welded up... things are starting to come along.. Lots of work on the charge tube, but I just need my tig welder helper.

 

[jacmmaxwell]

I bet if you thread a propane valve in on of those tanks there is not a service station out there that would care if they are certified. Just make sure they have the newer style connection.

Looks like you could cut up the underseat trim and make it even cleaner then you have there, and would add to the stealth of the under seat tanks.

Can't wait for some sound clips of this beast huffin gas

 

[jskattum606]

man is that ever scarry looking. Looks like your gonna be setting on two BOMBs haha

Just curious, say you fill up in the morning, tanks are 80% full and you start the sled to get it warmed up in the parking lot. Is the pressure going to rise in the tanks
How much?
What pressure are the tanks rated for?
What pressure do you think that drastic tempature change will produce?

Just got me thinking being how close your turbo is to your tanks.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

dont worry, The temp of the engine shouldnt warm it up to much.. Propane, at 100 degree's is right around 200 psi, the tanks are rated to right around 300, and I have a 180 psi pop valve on it, so if it gets high, it bleeds off a little gas, and I can fill them 100% if I fill up right before I go ride.. otherwise the pop valve vents liquid, which aint ideal.. I have talked to some propane folks about it and they approve of my technique..

I would put a valve on them, but thye are not setup properly at all, and I really honestly doubt anyone would fill them.. EVER. unless they were retarted. Either way, another step in the process.

 

[t_thall]

How much will you be able to carry in those tanks?

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

full they each hold 5 gallons.. From talking with the guys with the HP3 setups, they run dual 7 gal tanks, and can ride 80+ miles without running out. It has a lot of things to do with how the propane runs for air fuel ratio... etc etc. but 10 gallons will get me more then far enough.. If I ride a 60 mile day, its a lot of miles cruising around fast, the way I like to ride, I just dont put on a ton of miles before im dead *** tired from getting stuck or stupid crap. I wanted the 5's as they fit a LOT nicer then the 7's would.

I also am gonna put a little bit of mesh/sheating around the edges of the seat so its a little more stealth. BUT, I do like the idea of a big *** vent behind the motor/turbo.

As far as the tank/turbo location, its like 8 inches away at least.. and those ends dont have lines coming out, so I plan on a little heat shield, but its so open there, Im not to worried.

 

[kidrman]

I would put a valve on them, but thye are not setup properly at all, and I really honestly doubt anyone would fill them.. EVER. unless they were retarted. Either way, another step in the process.

I can't remember the last time I got propane from someone who wasn't a retard

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

I can't remember the last time I got propane from someone who wasn't a retard

Trust me, after thinking about the folks that usually fill my tanks.. I really think it would be pretty easy to get them filled, I got a trick or two up my sleave as well for getting them filled for me.

I also plan on running some sort of covering/mesh down around the edges of the tank os its not super open, more space for snow to build up and hang out in.

 

[jskattum606]

Cool, I didnt realize you were running a relief valve. That should work slick. I think the tanks look great under there

 

[jacmmaxwell]

Well reached the free member limit, good luck ... funny I can't read anymore but I can post.

 

[rmking600]

wow ive missed alot sick assssss sled

 

[Yamaha_nisse]

Ah, thanks for the info... Rolling LPG thoughts in my mind now

How do you do with the IC etc? Or do you use the carbs as throttle bodies? And let the LPG go in the same way as the gas?
Is LPG liquid or in "gas" form when it enters the carbs?

Sorry for all the questions, PM if you don't want them in your thread..

But once again. awsome sled on your budget!!!

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

I got rid of the carbs and am running a single throttle body with a custom manifold, the propane is entered into the air via a propane mixer/carb in the charge tube between the intercooler and the throttle body. It only lets propane vapour into the motor. The system works very similar to a gasoline setup.. the tanks have liquid LPG in them, which is pushed to the propane regulator by the pressure in the tank alone, then the regulator has coolant run throught it to keep a constant supply of propane gas to feed to the mixer. the regulator and mixer are boost referenced together by a single line, and adapt for the given pressure in the intake. Once I get it up and running, I will let folks know actually how easy it is to run.

Dont worry about the questions, I think propane is a really neat alternate fuel, and it can be done a LOT cheaper thne the HP3 setups, I will credit them, there kits are VERY nice, but htis is more of a project for the DIY person who wants something a LOT different. I know a few other yama-doo's like mine existed before.. but htis should set it pretty far apart now.

also, I am still working on figuring out how to deal with the whole tank filling game, but I am starting to settle on a few ideas, I just need to find some parts to get it going.