XP turbo build part 2

[nuttyn01]

boards

looks good. The one thing I didnt like about the airframe boards was I thought they were too long. Your design seems to fit the sled better IMO.

 

[Holomis International]

looks good. The one thing I didnt like about the airframe boards was I thought they were too long. Your design seems to fit the sled better IMO.

Thanks. It's a bit easier to make things look good and function when you are doing a 1 off, where as airframes have to be generic for each machine and easy to install. The problem with making the boards short is having to reinforce the tunnel where the upper skid mount use to tie into the running boards. So that is why I made side plates for the tunnel.

IMO the factory running boards are to long, and quite useless in the back portion so it was worth the extra work to shorten the boards and reinforce the tunnel. A kit could be put into production like this as it consists of cutting off the boards and then riveting etc... It is much easier to make a one off like this though.

Thanks for the input!

Jeff

 

[spacehog21]

Thanks! I did not drop the skid any, I wanted to leave it it factory in the rear, I have not done anything to the front either. I am going to ride it as is and see what changes I will make. I actually hope that it is a bit of a wheelie machine as I play in the tree's all day and to have it pull up and bounce like a jack rabbit makes it incredible through the tree's.

Thanks

Jeff

When you get that thing dialed in your going to need a better skid. I know you want a light nose crossing creeks and tree boondocking but the stock skid won't hold up if your putting out a lot of power.

Just something to consider in the future on your build.

I went with the diamond-s setup and there is nowhere for the snow to pile up now.

I also had to fabricate drop down brackets and strengthen my rear tunnel as you did. Mine are a 1/4 in thick and weigh .25lbs more than the stock drop downs.


Turbo power puts a lot of stress on your tunnel and suspension components. A skidoo is not built like a yamaha.

My sled doesn't crash and rarely leaves the ground but with the power it is putting out the stressed parts, including ice age rails, all looked like they belonged in a Dr Suess book. Squiggles, squaggles, up and down, side to side, a little twist here and there.

By the end of season nothing straight, even and true left.

I now have a Racers Edge skid - Much stronger


Speaking from experience I am just telling you before it happens... BEEF IT UP

 

[Holomis International]

When you get that thing dialed in your going to need a better skid. I know you want a light nose crossing creeks and tree boondocking but the stock skid won't hold up if your putting out a lot of power.

Just something to consider in the future on your build.

I went with the diamond-s setup and there is nowhere for the snow to pile up now.

I also had to fabricate drop down brackets and strengthen my rear tunnel as you did. Mine are a 1/4 in thick and weigh .25lbs more than the stock drop downs.


Turbo power puts a lot of stress on your tunnel and suspension components. A skidoo is not built like a yamaha.

My sled doesn't crash and rarely leaves the ground but with the power it is putting out the stressed parts, including ice age rails, all looked like they belonged in a Dr Suess book. Squiggles, squaggles, up and down, side to side, a little twist here and there.

By the end of season nothing straight, even and true left.

I now have a Racers Edge skid - Much stronger


Speaking from experience I am just telling you before it happens... BEEF IT UP

Thanks for the input, I will certainly look at some different options to beef this Girl up!

Jeff

 

[Holomis International]

So I got a bit more done on the build here:

-pulled the primary apart and it looked really good, gave it a cleaning and waiting for the wh/wh spring to show and 22grams of pin weight
-sides plates installed
-rear bumper built and powder coated and installed
-running boards powder coated and installed
-springs powder coated and installed
-rear wheels removed and now building the rear wheel kit with the powder freak wheels!

Hopefully get the panels all painted white this week so I can airbrush them this weekend, and then just a few things left to do, like build the gauge pod and final clean up of wiring and hoses etc... and we are close to firing it up.

Jeff

 

[Holomis International]

Got the first coat of white on it tonight, will be able to wet sand it tomorrow, then apply another coat of white, then wet sand and apply the pearl white, then ready for airbrushing.

Thanks

Jeff

 

[Holomis International]

Hey Guys

I decided to build a simple test contraption for my BOV so I could determine what would work best before going out and trying it for real. I very simply sealed off both ends of my BOV tube and left an air nipple so that I could apply some compressed air to try and determine how light of a spring I could get to still close the BOV firmly. I knew the one it came with would be much to stiff but thought I would give it a try anyways. It took about 75psi to open it, crazy! So that gave me a starting point, so I decided to cut the spring and see what that did. It took about 30psi for it to function. I couldn't cut the spring anymore otherwise it wouldn't keep the BOV sealed so I went on the hunt for another spring. I came up with a spring out of an old Mikuni I had lying around. I also wanted to be more accurate with the psi so I took my SATA spray gun with digital readout and I was able to dial the psi right down to 3psi. I found that by cutting the old Mikuni spring down a little bit I could get the BOV to open and close firmly with 3psi of air and still have it seal very well. So that is what I went with. Here's a quick clip of it working. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTE8vmnIzuU exciting I know!

Also got the primary re installed with 19 grams of pin weight and a WH/WH spring so we are going to try that to start with. Also installed the bellow relief valve, and re installed the BOV tube. Finally made up my 4 wheel rear kit with the powder freak wheels. I think it turned out well and only added about .5lb well worth it for the look.

So now to get the gauge pod done and air intake and then airbrush the panels, final clean up and re install the panels drop in some AV gas and fire this girl. With any luck I will fire it this weekend and maybe take it for a little test run up at our local ski mountain.

Thanks for checking it out!

Jeff

 

[Eli]

Question about your bov. Is the surface area the same on each side of the piston? I have a Tial and the surface area is much larger on the signal side. Equal pressures on each side of the valve(WOT) result in an inward or sealing force of the piston. So that said, I run a spring that is light enough to be open a bit at idle. The spring merely gives the initial seal and turbo pressure keeps it shut. The valves functions absolutely instantly now. Even a transition from full to half throttle gives release and I still get instant response in and out of the throttle in the trees.

 

[Holomis International]

Question about your bov. Is the surface area the same on each side of the piston? I have a Tial and the surface area is much larger on the signal side. Equal pressures on each side of the valve(WOT) result in an inward or sealing force of the piston. So that said, I run a spring that is light enough to be open a bit at idle. The spring merely gives the initial seal and turbo pressure keeps it shut. The valves functions absolutely instantly now. Even a transition from full to half throttle gives release and I still get instant response in and out of the throttle in the trees.

Thanks for the input, my surface area is the same on both sides with the exception of the fact that the signal side of the BOV brass "slider" is cupped, where as the charge tube side is a flat surface.

With this very light spring it should give excellent response. If not light enough I will modify it again.

Thanks again for the input.

Jeff