I
Idaho Slim
Well-known member
OK, first and foremost I must say with all honesty, I "Think" these XP's cannot be beat on the snow for steep & deep, for power, handling & climbing ability, (Turbo'd, Superchargered, & NOS sleds notwithstanding). I say "THINK" because I have ridden all the other contenders except the 800 Dragon, but reports I get from riders I respect say the Dragon wont hang in the steep & deep, Great sled they say and I dont doubt it since I honestly believe all the big four are good, ride the brand you liek and have a ball .......... Now .......................
Power: During breakin, I was giddy with the low end grunt, and most arm strecthing mid-range I have ever ridden. After breakin, point it, wick the throttle and ZOOM!
Handling; I was skeptical on owners saying they had difficulty getting it up for a side hill, I experienced same, however, after Setting the suspension for my style, it comes up on a rail instantly. Loosened the front limiter strap to the last hole, front shocks on the firmest setting (I weigh 175), front shock on rear suspension in the middle, rear adjusters on 2nd setting. I also pulled the sway bar completely, It does tend to dive to the inside a tad on trails when going thru a turn, But I didn't buy this for the trails, and this helps immensley for sidehilling.
Fit and finish was actually Nice, no loose ends,bolts etc.
Clutch Design: the clutchs obviously need help, BRP-WTF were you thinking, I have ours not eating belts, (500 miles on 3 different XP's) but this is pathetic having to do all your R&D on a $10,000 sled. We cut the secondary adjuster fingers, it works now, but belt delfection changes if you don't get the nipple tight. The factory set up for cluthes is shameable, BRP recommeded dealers to remove the pin weight prior to delivery, I had ours left in and ADDED another .7 to 1.7 depending on model rider etc. Primary springs are suspect, We have one w/ a 160/290, the other stock. The over reving is shamefull also, BRP recommends 8100- yet from trail to deep pull it can vary from 8600 on the trail to 7600 off trail and in the deep. The secondary cog design is PLASTIC with a ALUMINUM tightening nipple, um, PSSST.... these 2 materials DON'T MIX!
The idea of giving us a secondary that cannot be changed without a huge undertaking is idiotic, we buy these sleds to perform, in wanting them to perform, we like to TINKER and try things, this secondary should have been designed without having to pull the FRIKKING shaft!!!!
The heat issue is criminal, it is a MUST for us to go out and buy $250 vents, rip off all the plastic Noise EPA crap, and fiddle with pin weight just so the clutchs don't spontaneously catch FIRE they get so hot. At $10,000 a pop, we shoudln't have to doo diddly to them for this issue.
Give us the RIGHT belt, these are too long and you dang well know it.
Ergo's: The seat is good. The stock riser is good. (But at 6'3" adding the taller riser was needed). This is the COLDEST sled I have ever ridden, making it neccessary to go out and spend another $65 on handguards. I aint a sissy, but GEEZUS its cold, hurtfull actually.
OK, now for the really BAD...........
What is it with you BRP and your 800 motors?????
Mine just seized this morning, at EASY thottle use (6500-7500 rpm) This makes 3 different years 800 motors that have gone down. 01, 06 & 08, this aint my first rodeo, and I treat my machines right, spend the cash on Oil, service whatever, and these motors still die............ I love their power, but it is going to cost BRP on my sleds since I will always have a warrantied sled every 2 years, but the downtime is unacceptable.
I will continue to be a DOO rider since I honestly believe all 4 manufacturers have the same BS, they crank these "State of the Art" sleds out to get our dime at a sport we are all passionate about and we are suckers for it, but whats a Rider to doo???
Keep owning sleds with a warranty I spose.
My last comment: The SKI-DOO XP is an incredible performing sled when it runs, but it is a TUNER'S Sled, not a "Pull & GO" Sled, if you cant tinker and know what you are doing, PLUS have a good Dealer near-by, DON'T buy an XP, I mean this sincerely as I hate people blindly spending BIG money and having issues they cant contend with.......... Hell, I don't liek it myself.
Regards, Slim.
Power: During breakin, I was giddy with the low end grunt, and most arm strecthing mid-range I have ever ridden. After breakin, point it, wick the throttle and ZOOM!
Handling; I was skeptical on owners saying they had difficulty getting it up for a side hill, I experienced same, however, after Setting the suspension for my style, it comes up on a rail instantly. Loosened the front limiter strap to the last hole, front shocks on the firmest setting (I weigh 175), front shock on rear suspension in the middle, rear adjusters on 2nd setting. I also pulled the sway bar completely, It does tend to dive to the inside a tad on trails when going thru a turn, But I didn't buy this for the trails, and this helps immensley for sidehilling.
Fit and finish was actually Nice, no loose ends,bolts etc.
Clutch Design: the clutchs obviously need help, BRP-WTF were you thinking, I have ours not eating belts, (500 miles on 3 different XP's) but this is pathetic having to do all your R&D on a $10,000 sled. We cut the secondary adjuster fingers, it works now, but belt delfection changes if you don't get the nipple tight. The factory set up for cluthes is shameable, BRP recommeded dealers to remove the pin weight prior to delivery, I had ours left in and ADDED another .7 to 1.7 depending on model rider etc. Primary springs are suspect, We have one w/ a 160/290, the other stock. The over reving is shamefull also, BRP recommends 8100- yet from trail to deep pull it can vary from 8600 on the trail to 7600 off trail and in the deep. The secondary cog design is PLASTIC with a ALUMINUM tightening nipple, um, PSSST.... these 2 materials DON'T MIX!
The idea of giving us a secondary that cannot be changed without a huge undertaking is idiotic, we buy these sleds to perform, in wanting them to perform, we like to TINKER and try things, this secondary should have been designed without having to pull the FRIKKING shaft!!!!
The heat issue is criminal, it is a MUST for us to go out and buy $250 vents, rip off all the plastic Noise EPA crap, and fiddle with pin weight just so the clutchs don't spontaneously catch FIRE they get so hot. At $10,000 a pop, we shoudln't have to doo diddly to them for this issue.
Give us the RIGHT belt, these are too long and you dang well know it.
Ergo's: The seat is good. The stock riser is good. (But at 6'3" adding the taller riser was needed). This is the COLDEST sled I have ever ridden, making it neccessary to go out and spend another $65 on handguards. I aint a sissy, but GEEZUS its cold, hurtfull actually.
OK, now for the really BAD...........
What is it with you BRP and your 800 motors?????
Mine just seized this morning, at EASY thottle use (6500-7500 rpm) This makes 3 different years 800 motors that have gone down. 01, 06 & 08, this aint my first rodeo, and I treat my machines right, spend the cash on Oil, service whatever, and these motors still die............ I love their power, but it is going to cost BRP on my sleds since I will always have a warrantied sled every 2 years, but the downtime is unacceptable.
I will continue to be a DOO rider since I honestly believe all 4 manufacturers have the same BS, they crank these "State of the Art" sleds out to get our dime at a sport we are all passionate about and we are suckers for it, but whats a Rider to doo???
Keep owning sleds with a warranty I spose.My last comment: The SKI-DOO XP is an incredible performing sled when it runs, but it is a TUNER'S Sled, not a "Pull & GO" Sled, if you cant tinker and know what you are doing, PLUS have a good Dealer near-by, DON'T buy an XP, I mean this sincerely as I hate people blindly spending BIG money and having issues they cant contend with.......... Hell, I don't liek it myself.
Regards, Slim.
Last edited:
