W
Wyoming T/A
ACCOUNT CLOSED
yes it is
XP owners-Your driveshaft WILL break
- Thread starter trinitypowder
- Start date
yes it is
Quote:
Originally Posted by High Voltage View Post
T.A. is the brake down on the jackshaft or not?
yes it is
So how do these people not have brakes after the drive shaft brakes?
The Revs it was a problem, we rode 30 miles to get a chain to bring a sled off a larg hill last year. I t was one good Idea they had for the XP.
Originally Posted by High Voltage View Post
T.A. is the brake down on the jackshaft or not?
yes it is
So how do these people not have brakes after the drive shaft brakes?
The Revs it was a problem, we rode 30 miles to get a chain to bring a sled off a larg hill last year. I t was one good Idea they had for the XP.
???? WTF??? I'd almost think that you work for BRP with that statement.
Why should the purchaser have to pay more for a different driveshaft becuz the original one is a safety hazard/ticking timebomb? Sorry, don't see the logic in that at all. Same as the belts. Said it before, will say it again - the BRP belts are junk, they should be replacing your belts for free. They are just hoping that people are stupid enuf to keep coming back and buying them when they last 100 miles or less - oh wait......
To the guy that wants to screw it together - Don't! You could put it farther out of balance and increase the likelihood of failure. Not only that, but the holes you drill into it may decrease the strength and provide starting points for cracks, which is just as bad as not doing anything. If it were me, I'd get it welded.
Don't you just love your new hydroformed driveshaft?
I have ridden Doo all my life and still own one, but I would never buy a new one. There was a thread on the old forum about how strong the new XP would be now that they cut so much weight out of it......well, now we know. I refuse to buy parts from Doo and I think that XP owners should as well. Build a sub-standard part, it breaks, no recall and no warranty if you fix it yourself? Nice. While they got you bent over they might as well throw some sand in your behind before they shove in Mr. Winky.
<<???? WTF??? I'd almost think that you work for BRP with that statement.>>
Um....no. Not even close.
We only have 7 mos of winter where I live, and pretty or not it is a known good fix.
If you want to wait, fine. Get in line.
You probably spent more that the cost of that driveshaft on your dayglo dash-bag.
It isn't fair. But..while you're waxing your woody..
I'll be out riding.
MD.
Um....no. Not even close.
We only have 7 mos of winter where I live, and pretty or not it is a known good fix.
If you want to wait, fine. Get in line.
You probably spent more that the cost of that driveshaft on your dayglo dash-bag.
It isn't fair. But..while you're waxing your woody..
I'll be out riding.
MD.
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W
Wyoming T/A
ACCOUNT CLOSED
thought it might be drive shaft BUT after further review..when i installed the 19 gear i must not have gotten the chain tensioner lock nut tight enough...problem selk inflicted but cured
but curedYour brake will still work if you break the shaft on the chain side. The brake is on the opposite side. Each side has a friction weld. The chain case side will most likely break. I inspect mine very carefully before each ride. I think I will just keep riding it because my friction weld actually looks like it might hold. I have 550 of the funnest miles ever on a snowmobile. Best stock bike I have ever rode. ( I do keep alot of rescue equipment in my trailor just incase it blows. Even have a portable welder). Hope I never have to use it though. Xp 163
One of my clients did some work engineering the drive shaft for Polaris and found that the friction fit could not stand up to the tremendous force when landing from a jump. They ended up specifying the shafts had to be welded. They then tried to sell the manufacturing process to the frenchies and were told that they would doo it them selves. So there you go BRP cheaped out and now a lot of XP riders have been shafted.
I think one of the causes of breakage might by the PITA way of having to tighen the drive chain. I think when the chain is loose and you pin it that this puts a huge force on the whole drive system. I usually try and take the slack out by giving it a little gas first to take out the slack and then pinning it.
I think one of the causes of breakage might by the PITA way of having to tighen the drive chain. I think when the chain is loose and you pin it that this puts a huge force on the whole drive system. I usually try and take the slack out by giving it a little gas first to take out the slack and then pinning it.
Maybe you could just pack an extra drive shaft along with all the spare belts for me!
P
priest lake rmk
Well-known member
We have had a few (4) go down in our group. Kinda funny that my dealer is the only one has not heard of the driveshaft issuses.
Haven't had a problem with mine yet. I have about 500 miles on my XP154 and I don't baby it at all.....going riding in Revelstoke in a week and I'm a little worried about the driveshaft. Should I weld it or wait for BRP to recall them? I don't want to weld this shaft and void my warranty, but I don't want to be stranded in the mountains somewhere either and not be able to tow it out.....Is this a fatigue problem?
When you weld a shaft that has torsional forces, and heavy belt load (ex. electric mtr. shaft) applied to it, and it's not pre-heated correctly before hand and machined down correctly with the proper radiuss' where they are needed, the shaft will break again. I think this quick fix will cause the stub shafts to warp causing more stress to the axle, giving them another reason to break. I would wait for a solid axle from ski doo. I can't believe they used stub shafts in a hollow tube for a drive axle. JMO
Another drive shaft failure
My buddy had to tow his xp out today, sounds like the same thing, It took us a little bit to figure out what had happened. When we turned it up on it's side everything would turn normally, but when we held the jackshaft and pulled on the track you could see the driveshaft turning right at the "weld", perfectly clean break all the way around the shaft.
Dealer claimed they had updated driveshafts on the way???
My buddy had to tow his xp out today, sounds like the same thing, It took us a little bit to figure out what had happened. When we turned it up on it's side everything would turn normally, but when we held the jackshaft and pulled on the track you could see the driveshaft turning right at the "weld", perfectly clean break all the way around the shaft.
Dealer claimed they had updated driveshafts on the way???
450 miles on old belt
i have 450 miles on the original belt on my 08 xp 154 . of course i had to gear down to a 19 tooth and throw more weight in the primary but my belt still looks new and have had no other problems . the 450 miles are all steep and deep
i have 450 miles on the original belt on my 08 xp 154 . of course i had to gear down to a 19 tooth and throw more weight in the primary but my belt still looks new and have had no other problems . the 450 miles are all steep and deep
Two most critical parts of a sled are the engine and drive train, without both of those two parts you're sittin' still.... I would think you would want those the most reliable, screw the weight factor especially the drive shaft, looks like they made it out of sheet metal???
Hope a failure does not cause anyone to spend a night out in the wilderness...
Good luck guys!!!
Hope a failure does not cause anyone to spend a night out in the wilderness...
Good luck guys!!!
Welded shaft
We had a XP with a welded shaft breaak it wide open sunday on the hill---was not aa pretty site. I am thinking the drill and weld idea is a bad thing--this is the second shaft that was welded(by different places) that has exploded!!
As I stated earlier this year--a hollow shaft is a CRAP idea!! Driveshafts made from tubes are not designed to take side loads or impacts which our sleds get on the driveshaft.
Skidoo has had like 0 problems in the past with their driveshafts because they were always big and solid!! What were they thinking to save 3lbs??
I say they were not thinking on this idea!!
Another--in Theory it will work--but in real life---It sank!!
H20SKE...
Time to start ragging on Doo on this item!!
We had a XP with a welded shaft breaak it wide open sunday on the hill---was not aa pretty site. I am thinking the drill and weld idea is a bad thing--this is the second shaft that was welded(by different places) that has exploded!!
As I stated earlier this year--a hollow shaft is a CRAP idea!! Driveshafts made from tubes are not designed to take side loads or impacts which our sleds get on the driveshaft.
Skidoo has had like 0 problems in the past with their driveshafts because they were always big and solid!! What were they thinking to save 3lbs??
I say they were not thinking on this idea!!
Another--in Theory it will work--but in real life---It sank!!
H20SKE...
Time to start ragging on Doo on this item!!
anybody want to experiment..lol!
how bout drilling a 1/8..or 1/4" hole right through the shaft and hub(centered),,then tap a hardened spring pin through...and weld the ends! just a theory!
maybe even wrap around that area with a 1/16" sleeve (for strength)...then do the above procedure??
any thoughts?
how bout drilling a 1/8..or 1/4" hole right through the shaft and hub(centered),,then tap a hardened spring pin through...and weld the ends! just a theory!
maybe even wrap around that area with a 1/16" sleeve (for strength)...then do the above procedure??
any thoughts?
F
fassteddie
Well-known member
herd of a welded shaft breaking at gold creek sunday that had only two welds placed on it. owner/dealer said the weld did not penatate completly. [we shouldn't have to weld at all.] i did six still intact.
