I
Insaneboltrounder/sjohns
Well-known member
And im pretty sure it was pesos when Dave was last in texass.
XP Owners - Have Faith!! Long post, but a MUST read!
- Thread starter Idaho Slim
- Start date
I am right there with ya. My XP runs and drive awesome, except for the grip heaters stopped working. I bought a pair of Tourmaster synergy headed gloves and they work AWESOME. I keep my belt adjusted and ordered some venting for the clutches.
Pulled to 60 like you said and after it started to run better now pulls to 90 no problem.
Great sled and am proud to own it!
Pulled to 60 like you said and after it started to run better now pulls to 90 no problem.
Great sled and am proud to own it!
I will go out on a SOLID limb and make a bold statement: Those XP owners that are complaining about their XP's ............ You started your whining to SOON!
I have been biting my lip for the last month watching all the complaining and issues new owners have been voicing about their 154 Everst XP's. Waiting since we wanted to go thru our Break-in/Set-up/Tuning procedues.
Wite this down ................ The XP is the MOST impressive machine I have ever seen/ridden .....PERIOD! (Turbo/Superchargers excluded but who cares IMHO )
Here's my suggestions, and advice on why our 4 XP's are wicked bad sleds:
#1. BELT Issues: IMHO the biggest issue is how you break it in and SECONDARY adjustment. We have (3) 154's and (1) 146 with a total of about 450 miles, NO blown belts, let me repeat NO blown belts. I feel this is why; Beforethe first ride, took both sets of belts and scrubbed them down in soapy water and dried overnight. First ride BABIED the throttle for the first 5 miles always feathering the rpm NEVER going over 7000 rpm - I believe this to be critical. Then we stopped for 10 minutes, opened the panels and let the clutches kool off. Then we went another 5 miles, and feathered up to 8000 rpm, again NEVER pinning it. Again, stopped after another 5 miles, adjusted secodary if needed, opened panels and waited 10 minutes. Last 5 miles (to 15 now), we would pin it for 3 - 4 seconds and keep feathering the thriottle, stop open panels, adjust and kool off, after that ........ Rode it like a $1000 hooker. On the way out on the first ride, we swapped belts to the new one and repeated the process on the way out. I know 140 miles is not alot to brag about belt wear, but I was full throttle for 1 FULL miles at 90 mph after this break in and the belt looks PERFECT.
#2 Along with the break in above, Attention the new secondary is paramount. Yes it might be a PITA, but there are some things that are a MUST for your belt. Always ensure your belt deflection is set at the top of the cord even with the top of the sheave (top of the notch bottom). If the sled feels like its dragging you down, STOP! and check your primary, you will see a black mark in the center, ADJUST the seconday to as stated above. Another point, the plastic center nut needs attention almost each time you stop for awhile, Again, this is an issue, but you can over come it by just being proactive and checking it and adjusting it. We found we were not tightening the center fitting enuf, (but don't CRANK it down!) and the belt deflection would change as we rode, hence, belt would wear bad, adjusted it, and walla issue gone.
#3. Yes you need some type of clutch side venting. For now, I have removed the shock tower button plug, and cutout the small triangle section of the panel and covered with screen. We also drilled (7) 1/2 inch holes at the foot rest spot in the panels to exit hot air, and of course you must remove that damn clutch cover plastic piece of garbage.
#4. Gearing change will help, but (2) of the 154's are being ridden by 210-240 lb doods WITHOUT a gear swap, and they have no issues either.
#5. Now the fun part, QUIT worrying about the performance until you hit about the 100 mile mark, when It wakes up,OMFG!!
#6. Once you hit this break-in sweet spot, NOW you can clutch, IMO you are going to need to put BACK in the 2 gms of primary pin weight DOO had your dealers take out, I had our dealer leave both Jo's 146 and my 154 primary weights in, and now we are STILL both over reving even at 8000 ' el. I intend to re-clutch
There are a bunch of other tuning tips to be had for this sled, but I cant tell you ALL the good stuff
If you are not LOVING this sled, then you most likely are one that just pulls the cord and pins a brand new sled on your first ride, out of the box, not setup and in 4 feet of fresh snow and then GEE, you blow a belt at 34 miles
Hope this helps, good luck!
.....1000ish bucks more for the dragon, 50ish lbs more for the dragon, and 5ish more h.p.
.......yup, you got srcewed........
Ace
Slim youdaman.....
FUNNY how a tall skinny fellar from 9000' uses his BRAIN and listens to some dolt flatlander
and all is well....
-BJ
I
Insaneboltrounder/sjohns
Well-known member
I remember a time where he didnt listen so good. On the other hand Im still afraid to bum fuel from BJ.
. On the other hand Im still afraid to bum fuel from BJ.
Way to go Slim!
Thanks slim!! I have been easy on mine and broke in both of my belts easily for 30 miles each. As far as the tool kit placement, it can be shoehorned in under the seat where the owners manual goes, but i do not know if it will put extra stress on the seat cover. I purchased a camera bag and attached it with zip ties on the riser for the bars. We found some good powder on saturday (very little) so we could "skin these smoke wagons". I agree that these XP's will be awsome after they break in.
Thanks slim!! I have been easy on mine and broke in both of my belts easily for 30 miles each. As far as the tool kit placement, it can be shoehorned in under the seat where the owners manual goes, but i do not know if it will put extra stress on the seat cover. I purchased a camera bag and attached it with zip ties on the riser for the bars. We found some good powder on saturday (very little) so we could "skin these smoke wagons". I agree that these XP's will be awsome after they break in.
akrider
All in jest about the skandic, i understand your frustration, thats the reason I posted this so the "non-exceptions" might be helped to not experience your frustration.
I had a thought, since there are several "exceptions" that doo the break in and all the adjustments to get good belt use and still have issues, maybe a bad batch of belts????????????/
All in jest about the skandic, i understand your frustration, thats the reason I posted this so the "non-exceptions" might be helped to not experience your frustration.
I had a thought, since there are several "exceptions" that doo the break in and all the adjustments to get good belt use and still have issues, maybe a bad batch of belts????????????/
I remember a time where he didnt listen so good
F'n OUCH
......I suppose I will NEVER live that one down...touche'...LOL-BJ
V
Vertical Edge
Member
Already have one of the nose heavy pigs( I mean Dragon) glad I got f_cked and have an XP not another pig!
I
i'llDooit
Well-known member
idaho slim....,..,.,.,.,.
funny thing.,.,.,.,.,,. while reading your break in period short story, hah hah:
i couldnt help the strange feeling of deja vu... your description of everything was exactly our breakin ride. about 25 miles and 25 beers later,,,,, not a single problem.. unreal pull in the midrange in the first 25 miles.
funny thing.,.,.,.,.,,. while reading your break in period short story, hah hah:
i couldnt help the strange feeling of deja vu... your description of everything was exactly our breakin ride. about 25 miles and 25 beers later,,,,, not a single problem.. unreal pull in the midrange in the first 25 miles.
Here's trackstand tuning tip...when you go to set your belt deflection it's best that the belt is warm. Guy's who also park there sleds out at night or park in there trailers where the belt freezes, warming your belt up slowly for the 1st mile or 2 isn't such a bad idea either.
ot
ot
Hey Slim......... excellent post. Thanks for helping others.
A thought, though........ Your sled and belt worked great when you did a proper break-in. If you put on a new belt and rode it hard, not breaking it in, seems to me that might be a more scientific conclusion to your test.
Just thinking that if it still worked great, maybe the problems people are having isn't due soley to break in.
Your thoughts?
A thought, though........ Your sled and belt worked great when you did a proper break-in. If you put on a new belt and rode it hard, not breaking it in, seems to me that might be a more scientific conclusion to your test.
Just thinking that if it still worked great, maybe the problems people are having isn't due soley to break in.
Your thoughts?
N
newtrout
Well-known member
The problem here Slim, is that I don’t think that I’m the exception. There are plenty of people that have tried to properly break-in their belts on the new Summits and they are still blowing out on the outside. If this was just a setup/prep issue the belts would be showing more symmetrical failure. They are not. I appreciate your advice about keeping the clutches clean and properly adjusted. But if this was the cause of the problem, there are enough people out there that just jump on their new sleds every year that this would be happening on every make and model of sled every year. It does not.
Again, I’m glad that you aren’t blowing belts. But, there really is a problem with some of the new XP’s and neither denial nor finger pointing is going to get it resolved. I don’t want a Scandic, (or a Dragon, or an M-series, or a Nytro…) but thanks for the snide comment, it really helped a lot. I want my Everest to operate the way it’s supposed to. Is that too much to ask?
By the way, after 140 miles my handgrips are working just fine. So all those people who are complaining about their grips not working must have all done something to break them... Right?
Exactly what I was going to say. Except for the handgrips........
I will tell ya Slim's exact thoughts----You buy the belt and send it to him and he will be glad to try your theory!!
Some of us have done that and know that belt break in makes a huge difference in belt life.
H20SKE...
Yup, Sactly!!!
Better yet, call Trev @ Rexburg Motorsports 208-356-9668, give him your CC # to buy a belt, I'll run up there and get it and throw some oil in the secondary, throw out the adjustment of the belt deflection and go up on the bench in this new snow we just got and "Ride it like a $1000 hooker"
p.s. You gotta splain this to mah wifey Jo tho
Better yet, call Trev @ Rexburg Motorsports 208-356-9668, give him your CC # to buy a belt, I'll run up there and get it and throw some oil in the secondary, throw out the adjustment of the belt deflection and go up on the bench in this new snow we just got and "Ride it like a $1000 hooker"
p.s. You gotta splain this to mah wifey Jo tho
Slim don't forget to tell them your secret about running the belt backwards for the 2nd 30 miles....Helps balance out the flexability of the rubber.
ot
ot
So I'm gonna have to actually do something to this sled?
I'm pretty happy with it as is. But I'll have to keep up with the rest of you I guess. I've got 135 miles on it and just put the clickers on 3 and now I'm starting to pin it for more than a few seconds. It's only my second season/sled. Had an '02 RMK 700 and now this. I heard the "chip burn out" is between 150 and 300. Is this BS? what should i expect?
I'm pretty happy with it as is. But I'll have to keep up with the rest of you I guess. I've got 135 miles on it and just put the clickers on 3 and now I'm starting to pin it for more than a few seconds. It's only my second season/sled. Had an '02 RMK 700 and now this. I heard the "chip burn out" is between 150 and 300. Is this BS? what should i expect?
The chip thing is bs from what I have been told by people I trust. What I have heard that may or may not be true is that the timing is retarded until a certain number of miles or hours are met, not sure if this is true or not.
I think seat of the pants once these engines get loosened up they feel like something has burned out or whatever because they do run better. This is just my personal observation.
Similar threads
