XP Owners - Have Faith!! Long post, but a MUST read!

[Idaho Slim]

Sorry, forgot #7:

Cripes, forgot about the secodary/Oil issue. On the maiden breakin rides, I packed along a roll of paper towels and alcohol. When BRP did the chaincase/breather update and changed out the chaincase cover, many sleds came with the fresh oil spilt under the motor. During the course of first rides, MANY if not most all of the riders didnt wipe this up, BRP mistake yes, but you can cover their azz by cleaning this up during each 5 mile stop, we did, after the 15 mile stop,no more oil. And none on the belt.

lucky 13, since anyone can buy this rocket, I gotta save a few tricks for when I race

Here's one hint. I have knocked 16 lbs off my 154, another 26 lbs is in the works, that makes a total weight loss of 42 lbs, if you believe the original DOO weights, that makes my 154 weigh in dry at 397

 

[Interceptor]

Ive only got one thing to add -
"TOLE YA SO SLIMMIE"
its gonna be a good year....

 

[Idaho Slim]

Ive only got one thing to add -
"TOLE YA SO SLIMMIE"
its gonna be a good year....

GIGGTY GIGGTY!!!!

 

[Revanator]

Great to hear all the good news!! So everybody knows, the computer ever since 2003 800's retarded the timing until 100miles. That way all the stupid ppl that pin the throttle on a new motor, dont end up hurting it. Also, our dealership has been drilling 1/2" holes in the shock tower and holes in the clutch guard(if needed) and have never had any problems. I am running a 04 summit w/ a turbo on the original belt. But.....just like what was posted at the begining, belt break-in is very critical.

 

[AK-Rider]

...
Wite this down ................ The XP is the MOST impressive machine I have ever seen/ridden .....PERIOD! (Turbo/Superchargers excluded but who cares IMHO )

I agree. But I haven't heard of many people whining about the power or riding characteristics of these sleds. So, what's your point?

...
#1. BELT Issues: IMHO the biggest issue is how you break it in and SECONDARY adjustment.

I followed both the owner's manual and my dealer's advice regarding belt and motor break in. Please tell me why I should instead follow the "advice" of random internet forum posts in order to get more than 30 miles out of my belts.

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#2 Along with the break in above, Attention [to] the new secondary is paramount.

I agree that riders should pay attention to maintenance issues like belt deflection, but we shouldn't need to stop and adjust things every five minutes to be able to put more than 30 miles on a belt.

...
We found ...the belt deflection would change as we rode, hence, belt would wear bad, ...

So, do you think that this is a design problem, or just a maintenance issue?

...
#3. Yes you need some type of clutch side venting.

So, you're telling me that the sled isn't designed to operate properly as built? I find that hard to believe. And I'm not going to apologize for not wanting to hack up the side panels of my $10K sled. If it takes a hacksaw to make this sled rideable, maybe they should have put THAT in the owner's manual. Listen, I'm not trying to be facetious here. There are plenty of high-powered sleds on the market with no "extra" factory venting that work just fine. Why would the Summits NEED to have extra venting?

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#6. Once you hit this break-in sweet spot, NOW you can clutch...

I agree. I, for one, don't understand why anybody would complain about their sled's performance if they started modding it before it was broke in. The only thing I did to mine was add a skid plate.

...
If you are not LOVING this sled, then you most likely are one that just pulls the cord and pins a brand new sled on your first ride, out of the box, not setup and in 4 feet of fresh snow and then GEE, you blow a belt at 34 miles ................ and then goes back to your dealer and *****es that its a POS

Well, I do love my new sled. I love it's power and handling. I love how it looks. I love how light it is. I've never complained that it's a POS. In fact am patiently working with my dealer to try to find a solution to the belt problem. I do NOT love how it eats belts.

I also do NOT love how there are still people out there telling me that it is eating belts because of something that I did or am doing wrong. I've cleaned the clutches and belts. I've adjusted the belt deflection. I've babied the belt for break-in.

All this and the machine still blew the cord out of the outside of the belt in 35 miles. In fact, of all the reports of belts blowing, I haven't heard of one that blew out the inside. How can this possibly be a heat/cleaning/break-in problem? How is this not an alignment issue?

Now, don't misunderstand me. I am glad that you aren't having belt issues with your sleds. But please, QUIT BLAMING THE OWNERS FOR BRP's PROBLEMS. It's not our fault.

 

[Perry B]

My buddy's 154 hot grips quite working and his sled runs great. My 163 cuts out at 8450, I was wondering if there was a rev limiter in the ignition, and a simple clicker change would be the fix, never thought of turning off the hot grips. 75 miles on the sled.

 

[Idaho Slim]

Lol

Akrider, Like I said in my post, there are going to be exceptions, in your case, I hope you have an understanding Dealer who will take back your pos and trade you a Skandic for it

 

[snowdrew00]

Here's what my belt looked like at 37 miles and I take all the blame! 3-4' of fresh untouched meadows, I'd do it again. Not patient enough when those conditions present it self. If it ever stops snowing here I will break one in properly!

 

[winter brew]

My buddy's 154 hot grips quite working and his sled runs great. My 163 cuts out at 8450, I was wondering if there was a rev limiter in the ignition, and a simple clicker change would be the fix, never thought of turning off the hot grips. 75 miles on the sled.

Yes, there is a rev limiter. Add weight to run at 8200 rpm on clicker 3-4 on a climb.

 

[Zoomie]

I took it easy on my first belt, proper break-in for first 30-miles, cleaned grease from secondary, stopped and let clutch cool with side panel open every 10-minutes, etc. Belt cord started coming loose at 93-miles, then started to blow at 128-miles. Belt cord came out in chunks, not even like I've experienced on other sleds. First time I also had the a factory belt with only white lettering/numbers on it, all the others I've seen always had white, yellow, and red lettering and numbers? Looks to me the belt was defective?

Replaced the belt with a Carlisle UltraMax belt and rode it around the neigborhood yesterday to break it in, after 10-miles I pinned it a couple of times, and seems to work fine. I had issues last year, My X-RS didn't like the Carlisle belts. Next weekend will be the real test as I try it in some deep stuff.

Clutch came from the factory set on clicker #4, revved too high so I set it to #3 and that was right on climbing in the deep with RPM at around 8100 to 8200 at about 9500-ft., but still over-revving on the trail. Dropped it down to #2 while adjusting the Carlisle belt. Again, we'll see how that does in the deep powder.

Dealer called me back on my left hand grip not working, said BRP is aware of the problem... Poor adhesive and lack of tape wrap under grips when sleds where built, when the grip was grabbed, it wouild break the grid in the heat element causing an open circuit, so no current flow and no heat. Fix is on the way.

Love the sled, only thing I don't like are the board where they get very narrow as they tapper back. Find my self slipping off once in a while, while riding in the deep. Can't wait for more snow so we have a good base for Boondockin, this sled is going to take me places I've only dreamed of before.

 

[ledoo]

that T/A fella suggested you pull the o ring and finish cutting the slots on the black plastic adjusting nut so that you can thread the tightening nut more so that it will not come loose.mine, 163, was as tight as i could get it and i was able to spin it out by hand so i cut it and now it doesn't back out.
70 miles trail break-in, then cut adjuster put 100 miles on in valemount, mountains,no more problem.

 

[LRD]

Here is how I've fixed the adjuster so it won't turn, by cutting two of the slots completely through so the steel pipe thread lock nut can expand it a little more. Also how I modded the adjuster and the tool to make it work better by drilling the holes in the black plastic adjuster for the tool deeper.

"When I drilled the holes 200 thou deeper I used a hacksaw blade to scribe a line on the outside edge of one of the holes to sliding ring for aligning the holes as 200 thou deeper does put them into the sliding ring. Once I had the first one drilled and this line scribed into the two pieces I put one pin of the adjustment tool into this first hole and then drilled the second hole and then third and fourth.

So when you line up those slots you scribed in with the hacksaw blade all four holes are lined up and with the pins on the adjustment tool shortend about 300 thou it goes into the plastic adjuster completely, almost half an inch.

Then if you have modded a socket with an extension on it you can have the adjustment tool engaged and the socket on the steel pipe plug at the same time. This will allow you to check if you have the steel nut tight enough to really lock up the black adjuster so it won't turn. Takes quite a bit to lock it, I also cleaned all oil off the inside of the jcakshaft and the black adjuster so it has more friction."

Good Luck

 

[phatty]

If you are not LOVING this sled, then you most likely are one that just pulls the cord and pins a brand new sled on your first ride, out of the box, not setup and in 4 feet of fresh snow and then GEE, you blow a belt at 34 miles

What has two thumbs and does exactly what slim said? "THIS GUY"

except i made it just over 40 miles... and i think the sled rocks...

 

[IQTurboHound]

ROde today & broke the 100 mile mark. This sled came out to play!!!! Handling is just second to none!! Sled isn't shifting all the way out ( I know OT) At this point, I will put 2gms back in or even swap out the primary spring. I need more weight to have it shift all the way out (missing by ~1/4") still hitting 85-90mph though & my clickers on #3 & tacking at 81-8200...at 95-10K feet. My thumb warmer joined my lt hand grip today at the picket line & don't plan on working until BRP comes up with a fix.

Observation Only: not chit talk!

Handeling second to none? Have you had a chance to ride a dragon yet? I wouldnt make that statement until you have.

Rode XP and Dragon yesterday.

Both good sleds.

Brand loyal XP owner qoute:

"The difference in handeling is night and day, the dragon is effortless and predictable. I got f____ed, im getting a dragon."

 

[WFO or go home]

Handeling second to none? Have you had a chance to ride a dragon yet? I wouldnt make that statement until you have.

It's just his opinion, relax. Feel free to form your own. Your not one of those guys that believes everything Oprah says, are you? J/K LOL

 

[JDKZRT]

"The difference in handeling is night and day, the dragon is effortless and predictable. I got f____ed, im getting a dragon."

I'm a Yamaha guy, so I don't care either way , but, 'night and day' seems a little over the top to me.

 

[phatty]

Observation Only: not chit talk!

Handeling second to none? Have you had a chance to ride a dragon yet? I wouldnt make that statement until you have.

Rode XP and Dragon yesterday.

Both good sleds.

Brand loyal XP owner qoute:

"The difference in handeling is night and day, the dragon is effortless and predictable. I got f____ed, im getting a dragon."

Your trying to make a something out of nothing. The only thing i get from your posts is that your brand loyal polaris who is scared of the XP being the great sled that it is.

I have a 700 dragon and XP and the XP is lighter and easier to ride. I love my polaris and it handles with ease. The polaris takes corners tighter (doesnt seem to have the tail push of the XP) and tips side over easier, but the XP is magnificent in the deep powder. It feels way lighter than the polaris and you can dance it in and out of trees all day much easier than the polaris. Rest assured the dragon will be right there with the XP where ever they go, but the XP just seems lighter and more playful IMO...

 

[akpowrider]

Well put AkRyder! Any idea how much more hp we have at sealevel-3000 ft compared to someone else's 9000-10000ft? Could that be why our clutching issues are more problematic? Sure hope Doo comes out with a fix soon.

 

[AK-Rider]

Akrider, Like I said in my post, there are going to be exceptions, in your case, I hope you have an understanding Dealer who will take back your pos and trade you a Skandic for it

The problem here Slim, is that I don’t think that I’m the exception. There are plenty of people that have tried to properly break-in their belts on the new Summits and they are still blowing out on the outside. If this was just a setup/prep issue the belts would be showing more symmetrical failure. They are not. I appreciate your advice about keeping the clutches clean and properly adjusted. But if this was the cause of the problem, there are enough people out there that just jump on their new sleds every year that this would be happening on every make and model of sled every year. It does not.

Again, I’m glad that you aren’t blowing belts. But, there really is a problem with some of the new XP’s and neither denial nor finger pointing is going to get it resolved. I don’t want a Scandic, (or a Dragon, or an M-series, or a Nytro…) but thanks for the snide comment, it really helped a lot. I want my Everest to operate the way it’s supposed to. Is that too much to ask?

By the way, after 140 miles my handgrips are working just fine. So all those people who are complaining about their grips not working must have all done something to break them... Right?

 

[DaveB]

Um, .............. DAVEB told me how sweetie ........... Really, DAVEB told me!@!!!!! .......................

Yer dirty....I told you that in confidence. hahahaha!