Tahoermk- Our group could pull between 7750-7900 with stock weights at about your same elevation as well. We tried to get the sleds to 8100-8200 (which is where they were pulling last year before the 2010 update) and we had to drop down to 58gr weights. Besides having to hold the thottle open every once in awhile, they felt ok. But hate the fact that the sleds in our group lost hp compared to when they came out. (this is an interpretation based on the fact that we could not pull the same weights at the same elevations....polaris' clutch chart is usually spot on and now we can't even follow it???)
Whos riding the "new" update??
- Thread starter BigTruck
- Start date
M
mngoat
Active member
I want to make sure that admin doesn't consider this a bash post.
My 800 took a freaking crap AGAIN! It was bad enough taking an entire season finding and fixing the issues I had last season. Now it looks like the voltage regulator crapped out for the second time. I haven't checked to see if it is an updated one or not. I had about 6 rides or so at the end of the year and one this year where the sled ran perfectly. So in adition to another v.r. and ECU, it ate another piston. For those of you who lost count, that makes 9 over the last 1,200 miles. There are so many expletives that I want to use, I'd be banned for months.
BTW, still waiting on the update, not that the v.r. is included in the update.
That just SUCKS...just when you thought you had your problems form last year fixed. Thinking about just replacing my V.R. and carrying a spare ECU. When did yours go down....how did it act?....RPM's...? Was there any warning signs? Thanks
I did get the issues fixed, just now parts are failing again.
It a couple things that it has never done before. At WOT, it was cutting out like on, off, on, off, at very regular intervals. It would die when trying to put it in reverse.(It did do this with the lousy compression before) During WOT the A/F ratios were in the 12's but as soon as it went to idle it was 15 or 16's. Which is exactly what it did the last time the V.R. went out.
M
mngoat
Active member
Thanks...let us know if you had the latest V.R. on your sled.
A
aebsledder
Well-known member
Mine not so good
I have rode mine 3 times this year with pretty dismal results. I have only been able to hit 8100 rpms max on the trail under zero load. More often than not I am getting about 7700-7900 on hard pack going up a hill. My sled ran way better before the update. I switched to an SLP pipe and can and ran their recommended clutching. I am going to go through some basic stuff like changing plugs, dropping clutch weight and maybe putting on a new belt. Hopefully that will help. If that doesn't work I might go back to the stock pipe and slp can with stock clutching. Hopefully that won't work, because it means I wasted 600 bucks on an slp setup.
I have rode mine 3 times this year with pretty dismal results. I have only been able to hit 8100 rpms max on the trail under zero load. More often than not I am getting about 7700-7900 on hard pack going up a hill. My sled ran way better before the update. I switched to an SLP pipe and can and ran their recommended clutching. I am going to go through some basic stuff like changing plugs, dropping clutch weight and maybe putting on a new belt. Hopefully that will help. If that doesn't work I might go back to the stock pipe and slp can with stock clutching. Hopefully that won't work, because it means I wasted 600 bucks on an slp setup.
ski, i wonder if you have a short in your wire harness, i know one 08 here had 3 bad spots when his was acting up
F
Flange509
Member
Had mine out for the thrid time this weekend, ran ok on Saturday but low on rpm's,stock pipe slp can.Put a new belt on and got my rpm's back,in good snow just comin over the hood could get 8150 to 8250 and on the trail could get 8350 but on the trail it did have a little stumble around 6 to 6.5k but it wasn't much. Feels like it runs rich at low rpm's in the trees and milage was down from last year but it does feel stronger than before the update. Got about 180 miles on so far. Might go the fuel controller way,does seems like there's more in there but still happy with it so far
Well, I have the "new" voltage regulator. WTF now! The first one lasted a year and the second one lasted a year. This is complete B.S. It is interesting that it just leans out the motor at @6500 rpm and below and by lean, I mean stupid lean. The pistons had good wash from running it at WOT.
S
Super B
Well-known member
Sucks to hear about your sled skibreeze. I sure hope they get this issue figured out soon!!
Took my '09 D8 155 out tonight for the first time since the update. I managed to put on 15 miles on the sled and it ran ok... Seems to have a stumble from 6000 to 6500 rpms. But if I apply more throttle, it clears up... I am hoping a fuel controller will clear this issue up.
Took my '09 D8 155 out tonight for the first time since the update. I managed to put on 15 miles on the sled and it ran ok... Seems to have a stumble from 6000 to 6500 rpms. But if I apply more throttle, it clears up... I am hoping a fuel controller will clear this issue up.
Do not know if it would have anything to do with it but an idea I thought I would throw out there...is there any chance oil could be plugging up the fuel filter a little bit? I would think it would show up more at higher r's but who knows? Just a wild guess..
I just got my 2008 D8 updated after getting one day in. Put about 20 miles on it and it ran a little rough. I premixed the tank with VES Poo oil at 32:1. The sled felt a little doggy in the power, not as crisp and really tight in the motor. I just tried to ride it pretty conservative for about 10 miles, keeping the revs down and letting the cylinder/rings/pistons break in. I did about three good heat cycles. I did some hill climbs and got on it towards the end of the ride....hopefully I didn't push the new motor too much.
I am thinking that the rough running, idling and doggy power is the sled running way too much oil and hopefully after I burn a few more gallons of premix and get straight pump gas in it, she will wake up and the engine will free up a little. Some people are saying their D8 is ripping faster, mine is definetely not after ride #1 (no death bogs though!). Anyone else have similar feelings?
I am thinking that the rough running, idling and doggy power is the sled running way too much oil and hopefully after I burn a few more gallons of premix and get straight pump gas in it, she will wake up and the engine will free up a little. Some people are saying their D8 is ripping faster, mine is definetely not after ride #1 (no death bogs though!). Anyone else have similar feelings?
Well, I know this has been mentioned before, but check the throttle body boots on the motor side. I went to pull my motor and they fell right off. The rubber is supposed to be molded to the metal bracket and that fails. I have all kinds of grime and belt dust in my reed valves. I don't think I have the words for how I feel about this amazing feat of engineering and quality control.
The rubber is supposed to be molded to the metal bracket and that fails. I have all kinds of grime and belt dust in my reed valves. I don't think I have the words for how I feel about this amazing feat of engineering and quality control.
Do not know if it would have anything to do with it but an idea I thought I would throw out there...is there any chance oil could be plugging up the fuel filter a little bit? I would think it would show up more at higher r's but who knows? Just a wild guess..
There is no oil in the gas.
R
Ron
ACCOUNT CLOSED
How about a pic Monte? Are you running Ethanol? The alcohol and rubber don't mix well! They are making progress with rubber products but failures still show up. Doo has had carb boot failures for years.
Wikipedia Quote:
Methanol and ethanol contain soluble and insoluble contaminants [3]. Halide ions, which are soluble contaminants, such as chloride ions, have a large effect on the corrosivity of alcohol fuels. Halide ions increase corrosion in two ways: they chemically attack passivating oxide films on several metals causing pitting corrosion, and they increase the conductivity of the fuel. Increased electrical conductivity promotes electrical, galvanic and ordinary corrosion in the fuel system. Soluble contaminants such as aluminum hydroxide, itself a product of corrosion by halide ions, clogs the fuel system over time. To prevent corrosion the fuel system must be made of suitable materials, electrical wires must be properly insulated and the fuel level sensor must be of pulse and hold type (or similar). In addition, high quality alcohol should have a low concentration of contaminants and have a suitable corrosion inhibitor added.
Methanol and ethanol are also incompatible with some polymers. The alcohol is solved by the polymers causing swelling, and over time the oxygen breaks down the carbon-carbon bonds in the polymer causing a reduction in tensile strength.
Wikipedia Quote:
Methanol and ethanol contain soluble and insoluble contaminants [3]. Halide ions, which are soluble contaminants, such as chloride ions, have a large effect on the corrosivity of alcohol fuels. Halide ions increase corrosion in two ways: they chemically attack passivating oxide films on several metals causing pitting corrosion, and they increase the conductivity of the fuel. Increased electrical conductivity promotes electrical, galvanic and ordinary corrosion in the fuel system. Soluble contaminants such as aluminum hydroxide, itself a product of corrosion by halide ions, clogs the fuel system over time. To prevent corrosion the fuel system must be made of suitable materials, electrical wires must be properly insulated and the fuel level sensor must be of pulse and hold type (or similar). In addition, high quality alcohol should have a low concentration of contaminants and have a suitable corrosion inhibitor added.
Methanol and ethanol are also incompatible with some polymers. The alcohol is solved by the polymers causing swelling, and over time the oxygen breaks down the carbon-carbon bonds in the polymer causing a reduction in tensile strength.
Well, I know this has been mentioned before, but check the throttle body boots on the motor side. I went to pull my motor and they fell right off.
Last edited:
S
suitcase
Well-known member
Took the 08 out on sunday, with update inplace. Put around 40 miles on with no problems what so ever, ran real good even with the 16 onces of oil in the tank. Should be able to go again tomarrow with a new tank of fuel and see where I'm at without the oil in the tank. Then I will pull the Y pipe and see what the pistions look like.
Here are some pics Ron. Do you think this is from Ethanol? It's pretty hard to avoid these days. I have always run 91 pump gas, but hard to say what's all in there. It just looks like it lost adhesion to the metal. It must have been that way for awhile as my reeds are fairly dirty. Sorry, for the fuzzy pic. The lower part was loose to start, but by the time I tried to wiggle it past some cables it just fell right off. Man, if it wasn't for my super picky meticulous nature I'm sure mine would have gone down by now. And to think that if I hadn't dropped my cylinders and broke them I would have reassembled the motor without ever finding this. It would have roached a new motor and probably ruined a trip out west. How upset would I have been then?
Belt dust in your reeds, air box leak
Monte,
On the belt dust in your reeds, you may want to check the seam where the air box halves fit together, especially at the bottom, mine fit like crap, I ran duct tape around the seam, not to pretty, but should fix the "leak"
Well, I know this has been mentioned before, but check the throttle body boots on the motor side. I went to pull my motor and they fell right off.
Monte,
On the belt dust in your reeds, you may want to check the seam where the air box halves fit together, especially at the bottom, mine fit like crap, I ran duct tape around the seam, not to pretty, but should fix the "leak"
R
Ron
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Here are some pics Ron. Do you think this is from Ethanol? It's pretty hard to avoid these days. I have always run 91 pump gas, but hard to say what's all in there. It just looks like it lost adhesion to the metal. It must have been that way for awhile as my reeds are fairly dirty. Sorry, for the fuzzy pic. The lower part was loose to start, but by the time I tried to wiggle it past some cables it just fell right off. Man, if it wasn't for my super picky meticulous nature I'm sure mine would have gone down by now. And to think that if I hadn't dropped my cylinders and broke them I would have reassembled the motor without ever finding this. It would have roached a new motor and probably ruined a trip out west. How upset would I have been then?
When you have aluminum, rubber and Ethanol fuel it's a good possibility that the alcohol caused the problem. Supposedly the newer rubber is OK with alcohol but the automotive guys are still seeing problems with newer cars. In the marine industry it's worse, once again aluminum and rubber fuel systems.
It may be that the alcohol reacted with the bonding of the rubber to the aluminum. Or you might have one that was defective. Have to wonder if this is a unique issue or if others have had this happen?
It's likely that you were getting some extra air creating a lean condition.