That's my plan with the turbo kit. I am swapping the Trygstads to the yellow sled and putting the stockers on the red one for the turbo. I am pretty sure I will go with the Turbo Performance kit. 10 lbs of boost and STM valves. Any other little things I should look at before the install? Any other parts for making it more reliable? I only have about 450 miles on the crank. Since the front steering post bracket was cracked I just ordered the freeride one so it will be set up just like the freeride. I am also narrowing the front end from a 43-42" to a 40-39" stance and shortening the X1 Exits.
Visi's Mod Shop
- Thread starter Visi
- Start date
S
swrev
Well-known member
I believe TP kit will come w/ boot girdles, if not, make sure you order a set. Other than that remove the stinger on the pipe and weld it. Those are the only real problems I've ever had w/ my setup. I also have the turbo reeds, I know some people prefer stock or doubling. Never tried anything else but never had a reed failure.
If you wanted to save a little coin, the pressure relief valve works very well on the powervalves. I haven't blown a diaphragm yet and do not have mine wired or glued.
Look forward to seeing the end result. That is one sweet looking sled.
If you wanted to save a little coin, the pressure relief valve works very well on the powervalves. I haven't blown a diaphragm yet and do not have mine wired or glued.
Look forward to seeing the end result. That is one sweet looking sled.
I appreciate it. I was planning on removing the stinger on the pipe already. I have an SLP pipe on the sled right now and was thinking about giving it a try but have the stock pipe ready to go. Any thoughts on that? As far as the turbo reeds go, are they a complete new reed or are they just different peddles? The pressure relief valve is the unit that plugs in the lines between the Crankcase and the Solenoids? I have seen that if that's what you are talking about but it has been a while and wasn't sure how they were working.
S
swrev
Well-known member
Reeds are pedals only.
Not sure how the SLP pipe would work. Would seem like a shame to possibly blow it apart if you have the stock one available. If you stick w/ the stock, add an extra plate to the center section that you can tap if you decide to run the fuel pressure regulator off the pipe. Much happier w/ mine there when running over 8 lbs. If you don't plan on that much boost, it doesn't really matter.
I cheated w/ the pressure relief and plugged it between the solenoids and powervalves. I was in a hurry so it was the easiest at the time, no problems so far. I plan on mounting before the solenoids next season to see if it makes any difference in performance-may keep valves closed a little longer??
Not sure how the SLP pipe would work. Would seem like a shame to possibly blow it apart if you have the stock one available. If you stick w/ the stock, add an extra plate to the center section that you can tap if you decide to run the fuel pressure regulator off the pipe. Much happier w/ mine there when running over 8 lbs. If you don't plan on that much boost, it doesn't really matter.
I cheated w/ the pressure relief and plugged it between the solenoids and powervalves. I was in a hurry so it was the easiest at the time, no problems so far. I plan on mounting before the solenoids next season to see if it makes any difference in performance-may keep valves closed a little longer??
Got a little more work done to the sled. Took the rear suspension and track out to check on a few things and make installing everything easier. Got the front suspension in for the most part. Ran out of washers for the right side upper a-arm and shock. Installed them with the brass a-arm bushings and lower module support brakets. I used a RS and I think the Freerides have the upper A-arm braces build into the front module for more strength. While the track was out I was looking over the running board supports and found that both sides were cracked. I found the left side first and got it off and me and my buddy got it welded up. While it was off I started looking at the clutch tower and found it was a little loose. I took it off and installed larger M8 bolts then what were in it originally. I also installed the new front Freeride/Rs Pyrimid since the old one was toast. Ordered a new Freeride/RS post to make it work too.
Where the Running board support broke.
Upper stock Freeride/RS A-arm brace.
Where the Running board support broke.
Upper stock Freeride/RS A-arm brace.
VERY stoked for you.. that thing is going to be stupid on boost levels that are going to make other people sad!!
Thanks guys. I am getting pretty excited. I am going back to work next week after three months of being laid up an the sled is coming along. Thanks swerv for all the help too. It's made things alot easier. I'm leaning towards a timbersled rear right now. I hope with a 4 lbs wastegate spring I won't wheelie everywhere. I ordered all the exhaust individual bends today and hope I can get the engine and exhaust finished up pretty quick. I am going to try and fit a glass pack in so it's not crazy loud.
Last edited:
they are really not that bad straight, i run the my 3" dp out the shock tower and i get a lot more noise due to complete mesh paneling. only gets bad if i midrange trailride forever on harder snow...
i think i ran 310's on my 700 so i would say thats pretty good for a 800. i think we did 340's on my buddies for 6-9k elevation. yours should be solid for your setup.
leave the rest stock. what you will find is that with big turbo/ charge tube system your sled isnt going to need to be thinned out so much on the bottom. i ran my 17.5 pilots and stock needle and was pretty dang happy. little work on the air screws for idle/ very low speed and just spent a little time with my power jets getting my top end just how i wanted it. the carbs run so smooth and are way easy to tune. the only thing im going to do this year is pressurize my slide caps as i did have issues with a little bit of run on even with a BOV.
leave the rest stock. what you will find is that with big turbo/ charge tube system your sled isnt going to need to be thinned out so much on the bottom. i ran my 17.5 pilots and stock needle and was pretty dang happy. little work on the air screws for idle/ very low speed and just spent a little time with my power jets getting my top end just how i wanted it. the carbs run so smooth and are way easy to tune. the only thing im going to do this year is pressurize my slide caps as i did have issues with a little bit of run on even with a BOV.
S
swrev
Well-known member
Should be a plenty safe starting point. 340's currently in mine also. I don't even know what I have for pilots in mine-they won't back out, but the low speed fuel air screw adjustment makes a big difference. Mine are out a little too far currently, I need to go in 1/4 turn. I am 1 turn out. At 1/2 a turn, it sounded like it would lean pop when letting off the throttle.
I'd say I'm around 90%. I don't hurt except when lifting real heavy stuff. Running now isn't too bad either. I'm going back to work on Monday. I'm getting my class a license tomorrow so I'll be driving trucks for a little while. I'm tired of being cooped up inside, waiting on parts, and being out of shape. Thanks for asking and thanks for the help guys.
Well glad to know you are getting there ... get 110% healed cause when you get older all those injuries slowly come back.
Got my radiator line that I needed before I could install the engine. Got some stuff done but had a little slow down with changing the reed peddles. The screws in the reeds are too tight and I stripped a couple out. I have a set at my parents house I will grab to see if they are any easier. I got the engine in and steering post. Hopefully by next weekend I will have the exhaust and turbo mounted and working on the fuel set up.
This is the pressure relief valve. Goes in between the engine and rave valve soliniods.
This is the pressure relief valve. Goes in between the engine and rave valve soliniods.
Last edited:
Similar threads
