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very disappointed in you arctic cat guys

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I don't think you can argue that the PC needs better skis, the seat pokes out past the tapered tunnel, the snow flap is a joke, the steering post is sloppy, or that the sled weighs a bit much.

If just those 6 things were equal too or better than the Pro, I really feel you could argue that the PC ROCKS! Those few things add up to a sled that is competitive. Polaris is making it, and ppl are liking it.
 
Blessed with the small genes boys my buddies that are 200 pounds dont even try an play the high mark game hahaha!!!

Anyone on a proclimb losing to a pro doesn't surprise me because the clutching is **** stock. I let my clutches cool down and i would be 6 lengths ahead, when i was hot, he would beat me....

Keep them clutches cool, set the suspension up and the proclimb will win strait up the hill every-time.

We had an 11 pro rmk and another 12 hcr that was left stock riding with me all last season, i tested mine against both as i modded all year, i have posted helmet cam footage of some of the testing :) right now my sled with mds weights, and a team secondary i beat the pro rmk and the stock hcr by several lengths a lot of that is out the hole bite/go

When we put the orange spring in the stock secondary it really woke it up out the gate

But was 15 degrees hotter

I set the rear shock just to the point it gets proper ride height, then adjust the front track shock in till the front end lift is controllable under a launch. This gives your sled a "jumps out of
The hole" feeling when setup properly.

I think the single best shock to upgrade is the rear track shock, i think its a lot of the reason the pro rmk skid works so good.

Having a smooth gas shock for your sled to transfer the weight to the ground with is huge. As you pin it the sled rocks back on that shock, if its not getting all its travel because you have the air pressure so high ( if you weigh 200 pounds) the shock is going to have stiffer bottoming out characteristics. Making the skid trench.
Just setting up the rear suspension properly will get you 2-3 sled lengths in a 1/4 mile if not more!

Both sleds setup right i give it to the proclimb, now if cat would just come set up out the box we would be doing just fine. It was the first year though...

Polaris is hitting a home run out the gate, but they also have a few years on there chassis!

Just remember first year sled


Wyo if im wrong anywhere feel free to enlighten me as im bring up the discussion to learn more!

-Aksnopro
 
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Burn Down

Dropping weight for several reasons.

I'm a big guy and need to even things out a bit.
I'm a geek and love doing this.
I want to improve ride and suspension compliance for better traction.
Easier to drag around and dig out
A bad knee and couple of back surgeries has my right leg especially not doing what I want it to so lighter helps to move the sled more.
Oh, and lastly, some of this stuff just looks cool! Lol

Hey, apologies for any mud dragging I put in this thread. Looks like its getting more useful again. Gotta love the passion on this forum!:face-icon-small-win
 
your issue is you think its best for you its best for everyone, i stand with half my foot off the standing rail to make my 130 pound *** have the leverage to move the sled, so yes i do have my concerns with skinning them up for a gain i might only see at 55 degree slopes going down hill..

You run your handlebars low and skinny up your sled, i run my bars half way up and try an get my feet as wide as possible, im seriously not sure if making my sled skinnier would be beneficial to ME...

Your sled works best for what you do, your problem i see is you think everyones should be just like yours.

I would love to jump on your sled and test to see if it effected my leverage or not.

Cause im not doubting it helps increase the paneling out...

Im not going to argue with you about about the gain you found, but i rarely see the paneling out issue and will it effect my weights leverage on off camber landings and everywhere else i ride is it worth it. You weigh over 200 pounds thats a ton of leverage difference and floatation difference.

Our riding styles differ, weight, terrain, horsepower??!

Dont think people dont respect your ambition to make it what YOU like just make sure its for everyone before you try an sell it to everyone....

The steering is a no brainer, as are several other mods.

Thanks for your ambition and input im not hating on you wyo i really try an stay outside the box and think about ME when modding not you or brett rass....

-Aksnopro

Now for the 100 time, I'm not forcing my opinion on you. It is more than obvious for your style you don't need a pure mountain sled. But I can say I am 100% sure when you open the running boards up and they work the way the should even skinnier is better than they where before. Before my feet slipped from snow build up, now they dont. But thats your preference, fine so be it. I run low bars for extreme sidehilling, if you did that you would know what I'm talking about and since the PC can't hardly do that anyway how would you know but I can guaranty you if we road together I could very specifically show you in a way that would 100% sense. Just like you have your way for the way you ride, it makes some sense and I understand. But I know the difference because I made the mods to know the difference. You don't but want to tell me I'm wrong.
Some of us want a mtn sled, you obviously don't need one but who is to say if we had the mods you wouldn't prefer it. This is where No One else knows the difference. These are the facts ppl, sorry that everyone takes it so personal that I spent hrs and hrs of my own time and money so that I would know. So you can take my word for it or whatever but your word means nothing because you have nothing to back it up, all you can do is speculate.
Another thing is everyone is getting pi$$ed and attacking me saying I think I'm the best thing ever, yet I have never said that. Or I'm cocky, why, because I challenged someone that doesn't really know, i e called a bluff or maybe not. Its all BS, what is not BS is I don't attack ppl, I may give them sarcasm or call them out but I have been attacked time and time again and never really got all pi$$ed. If I was any of those thing ppl say I am I would have lost my temper to the point of loosing it. Add it up, it doesn't equal a cocky god like mentality.
Oh and when its all said and done, I'm laughing my arse off, why not.
But I prob wont buy another cat until they make a mtn chassis again.
 
Blessed with the small genes boys my buddies that are 200 pounds dont even try an play the high mark game hahaha!!!

Anyone on a proclimb losing to a pro doesn't surprise me because the clutching is **** stock. I let my clutches cool down and i would be 6 lengths ahead, when i was hot, he would beat me....

Keep them clutches cool, set the suspension up and the proclimb will win strait up the hill every-time.

We had an 11 pro rmk and another 12 hcr that was left stock riding with me all last season, i tested mine against both as i modded all year, i have posted helmet cam footage of some of the testing :) right now my sled with mds weights, and a team secondary i beat the pro rmk and the stock hcr by several lengths a lot of that is out the hole bite/go

When we put the orange spring in the stock secondary it really woke it up out the gate

But was 15 degrees hotter

I set the rear shock just to the point it gets proper ride height, then adjust the front track shock in till the front end lift is controllable under a launch. This gives your sled a "jumps out of
The hole" feeling when setup properly.

I think the single best shock to upgrade is the rear track shock, i think its a lot of the reason the pro rmk skid works so good.

Having a smooth gas shock for your sled to transfer the weight to the ground with is huge. As you pin it the sled rocks back on that shock, if its not getting all its travel because you have the air pressure so high ( if you weigh 200 pounds) the shock is going to have stiffer bottoming out characteristics. Making the skid trench.
Just setting up the rear suspension properly will get you 2-3 sled lengths in a 1/4 mile if not more!

Both sleds setup right i give it to the proclimb, now if cat would just come set up out the box we would be doing just fine. It was the first year though...

Polaris is hitting a home run out the gate, but they also have a few years on there chassis!

Just remember first year sled


Wyo if im wrong anywhere feel free to enlighten me as im bring up the discussion to learn more!

-Aksnopro

I can't say your wrong in your findings, your the only one that knows, But the mentality that I should stop and cool my belt is completely f cked up though. I don't see the pro guys doing that even with turbo's

IMO and what I have found and makes the most sense.
If you want clutching, you prob need a 911 cover, the right weights and spring, most likely a helix (RKT says he has one but no one knows what it is) and a white rad tcl mount. then if your alignment is right and you don't have an out of spec china clutch, oh and its balanced right you should be good. But really not a single person has anything close to what I would call a solid fix yet. several of us tried different thing and I am getting amazing track speed but can't make it more than 150 miles a belt.
 
I have ridden snowmobiles from the 60's, 70's, 80's, 90's, 2000's and the sleds we know today. And without exception, I will take the modern snowmobile any time, any brand. The modern snowmobile has made the rider we know today; the modern rider is making the snowmobile we will know tommorow and even after 48 years of riding, I cannot wait. Gees we need some snow.
550iq
 
I can't say your wrong in your findings, your the only one that knows, But the mentality that I should stop and cool my belt is completely f cked up though. I don't see the pro guys doing that even with turbo's

IMO and what I have found and makes the most sense.
If you want clutching, you prob need a 911 cover, the right weights and spring, most likely a helix (RKT says he has one but no one knows what it is) and a white rad tcl mount. then if your alignment is right and you don't have an out of spec china clutch, oh and its balanced right you should be good. But really not a single person has anything close to what I would call a solid fix yet. several of us tried different thing and I am getting amazing track speed but can't make it more than 150 miles a belt.
Dang wyo, 150 miles per belt? thats got to get spendy..cat wont warranty belts? sounds like the early xp's, guys would show up with 4-6 belts strapped on the tunnel for a day ride.........
 
Dang wyo, 150 miles per belt? thats got to get spendy..cat wont warranty belts? sounds like the early xp's, guys would show up with 4-6 belts strapped on the tunnel for a day ride.........

I've got buddies not even getting that. And they sit a couple minutes after each decent pull to cool off. It's like hanging with guys who have motor problems & are always opening the hood... except they're just opening the panels to cool off. The belt issue is no joke for the people who have it, I just wish we had a "this WILL FIX IT" thing that we knew would do the trick.
So many issues we know what is needed to fix them, but the belt thing seems like there's a ton of speculation, and no real solid answers. I'll likely just get white rad's fix this year if I've got issues with the 12 (last year my wife was pregnant & wasn't pushing too hard) and hope it works.
 
So people, will a 2013 proclimb with powder pros skis and skinz Rasmussen narrow airframes be a okey snowmobile? :)
 
So people, will a 2013 proclimb with powder pros skis and skinz Rasmussen narrow airframes be a okey snowmobile? :)

The a frames are better but they don't really pull the panels in, I'm going to look at putting '13 pro boards on, should be really simple, and clean.

For a better finish it would be nice to change out the lower plastic rather than just shoving it in and riveting it down, Does anyone know who could build something like that
 
I've got buddies not even getting that. And they sit a couple minutes after each decent pull to cool off. It's like hanging with guys who have motor problems & are always opening the hood... except they're just opening the panels to cool off. The belt issue is no joke for the people who have it, I just wish we had a "this WILL FIX IT" thing that we knew would do the trick.
So many issues we know what is needed to fix them, but the belt thing seems like there's a ton of speculation, and no real solid answers. I'll likely just get white rad's fix this year if I've got issues with the 12 (last year my wife was pregnant & wasn't pushing too hard) and hope it works.
can you eliminate the floating jackshaft and go back to what the M ran? seems to me that if the motor moves the shaft has to and in the process its messing up alignment...
 
So people, will a 2013 proclimb with powder pros skis and skinz Rasmussen narrow airframes be a okey snowmobile? :)

Honestly, for 60% of people(approximate out of butt number used for this situation), the 2012 was a great sled. Add running boards, good skis, and the updates done to the 2013, and I'd say it's going to be a great sled for 90% of people... leaving a few people wishing they had a lighter, more nimble sled... but still with a pretty darn solid machine.

Keep in mind that the complaining we do is about the fringes (ok, aside from the belt issues) of riding, and that's where the pushing happens, and unfortunately, the chassis itself is the issue, and it's not very easy to fix that.
 
Wyo we will never see eye to eye

as your impression on a mountin is my impression on 0-2k elevation boondocking sled where trees actually grow

boondockers here prefer a few spots, but most common is petersville its got hills and trees for the boondockers to play in.

as a joke we call people that ride there a lot "petersville hardcore"

due to the nature of turnagain hardcore being more "mountain machines"

so for you to classify a mountain sled based off where trees grow is laughable to me....

i know you have seen pics of my riding before so i know you know what im talking about but let me show you the mountains that showed me how much better the proclimb was then the 10M and where the suzuki power high marks the pro rmk.


the pic with the rocks/mountain/slope with the dot 3/4 the way up it (thats a proclimb) was the sole reason i speak of how much the proclimb spanked my 10 M on the mountain, it literally walked past where the 10M was struggling. it was pretty heartbreaking as i loved my 10 M!!!! but fact was it got spanked on the hill.

with that said i will now do what it takes to make the proclimb work for me. exit shocks, skis, clutching, ect ect $$$$ but you cant argue with results on the mountain in the deep n steep.

again first year, im stoked to see what upgrades i get each year as cat develops the sled further.

my opinion, you need to change your wording, a mountain sled, to boondockers, or backcountry sled.

just coming from a guy who has mountains that are so steep and deep that the trees dont grow on them!

in the last pic thats a proclimb on the hill, the 10M wouldnt make it half way out, i dropped into the bowl with him and had to track poach all the way to get out.

for a first year sled in my mind cat is closer to the top out the box then you think, it wasnt till 10, that the suki 800 really outshined the competition and showed everyone the M chassis's capabilitys. lets give cat a couple years and see what they can do with it.

-Aksnopro

IMG_0149.jpg IMG_0411.jpg IMG_0148.jpg IMG_1309.jpg IMG_0249.jpg IMG_1502.jpg IMG_0244.jpg
 
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