updated boondockers race gas m1000

[snwman77]

I will get right to the point this sled sucks in the mid range and its been like this from the 1st time I started the sled. I have gone to Extremes in the boon docker box and it stays the same (sucks). If I work it through the mid range it rips on topend but if I let off the throttle it goes right back to sucking. I can drive the sled around in deep snow or in the trees and it will get around but right when i try to go if falls on its face.
Any ideas on what I should look for? I have tried Boondockers #s, VOHKs #s and a map right from Jared that was in rockys TM1000 at boondockers.
I can put this sled on a Jack stand and make it do the same things. 4,500 RPM to WTF and it wont rev but if I let off and play with the throttle it will rev and boost. its all most like it wont boost in the mid range. It has a new turbo in it too. And one more thing, If i turn the boost any lower then 7lbs this sled has no topend so running this sled between 1 to 6.75 lbs of boost its wont run at all.
Im inberest to ride this sled!!

 

[snwman77]

I like letting things warm up before running them hard. but this time I didnt.
So just now I went out in the garage and the engine was a little warm pipe was cool and the rear cooler was almost cold. I ran the sled to see if the wast gate was doing funny things and it ran the best it ever has!!! Revs like crazy low mid and high. I reset the boost max and was watching boost #s and it was only at 3 or 4 (this thing would have gone through the garage door if it fell off the stand) and it was running good then it just went to hell. after about 1 minute of running. I would have to think the pipe was up to temp after the 3rd or 4th hard rev but coolent was still cool at that point. any ideas? my o2 sensor was down around 11 then went up to 13 were it is most of the time when it runs bad.

 

[snwman77]

I just did it again, pipe was hot but not up to running temp, rear cooler was warm and I started it and it runs!!! I keep reving it over and over again and and it runs just like it should I do this 14 times with the max boost up to 4.3 and max RPM up to 6,480 and it liked it, o2 was a 11 then all of a sudden it goes to hell again. I watch the o2 sensor go up and up to 13 and its the same old bad running sled. The cooler was close to hot at this point and the pipe was hot. am I too lean or is there something wrong with a temp sensor?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

put a new belt on it, if that doesn't do anything try adding

3000---lo +8, mid +5, Hi +3
5000---lo +2, mid +2, Hi +2

 

[Ricks 32]

I'm not sure checking things out on a stand is going to help? I'll stand to be corrected, but I don't think you'll build much boost without resistance. I've been watching temps and a/f on my M1000 and TM8 and I've noticed that I run the hottest temps when when I've got a load on my sled. When I'm going down a trail and the track is hooking up completely, my temps are high 1200's and I can tell the sled is working. When I'm climbing WOT in powder I rarely get the 1200 temps. Just out of curiosity I jacked up my TM8 and it wouldn't build over 5lbs boost at WOT with no resistance. And my TM8 is set at 13 lbs and it runs amazing in the snow.

If I'm way off here then someone please correct me. I'd try to get out in a wide open hill and play with the BD box in the mid range until you find your settings. I took an '09 TD8 with a BD RG kit out two weeks ago and it took about 30 minutes and 20 passes up a small hill to get it dialed.

No bashing intended here. I just don't think a setup on a jack is going to give you a real world scenario.

Good luck.

 

[snwman77]

Ricks you are right, trying to tune a sled on a jack stand is silly. But I have made so many changes in three days on the snow with this sled and today i went crazy trying big #s and -#s in my box and it did nothing to the mid range on the hill so I brought it home tonight and the POS will do the same thing on the stand once it gets warm. If I let the sled sit for 30 minutes it will run good then run like crap after it gets hot on the stand. I just swaped out pipe sensors from my stock m1000 and it did the same thing once it got warm. Once it goes to hell on the stand i can hold it wide open and it wont rev over 5,200 RPMs and when it starts running like crap the o2 sensor starts jumping around 13s,14s but when its running good the o2 sensor is between 11 and 12 and no jumping around. Im not trying to tune the sled on the stand im trying to find a proble that I think I have.

 

[lightening800]

watch and make sure your power valves are opening properly and check the cable adjustment [very important] you never know

 

[WyoBoy1000]

My 09 m1000 will run for a while (until warm) just fine, then it bogs bad on bottom and if I make a pull and let off its over the bars, If I add tons of fuel on bottom it goes away. I am wondering if the heat temp sensor is causing it. Did you check reeds. Whats the F/P doing. It almost has to be going into a limp mode, like a heat soak condition, at least thats what mine acts like. Maybe unplug the temp sensor and see what happens. But I have also had the belt do some weird chit before.

 

[snwman77]

Iv had 3 diff. new belts on it and that didnt do anything. I put those #s in and when it went to hell it did not like that at all
I have a feeling I have a temp sensor problem

put a new belt on it, if that doesn't do anything try adding

3000---lo +8, mid +5, Hi +3
5000---lo +2, mid +2, Hi +2

 

[Ropin_tom]

Had a buddy with a similar problem on his poo, turned out to be one wire that had rubbed a little thin only half the wire was holding on, fixed that and it runs beauty. Good Luck

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Well it eliminates that thought. Let me know if its a temp sensor issue. If it was electrical it would still have to be something to do with heat, like a coil or stator or maybe a bad connection that expands with heat and gets worse. Are the PV moving freely and staying open.

 

[snwman77]

I was running the sled when it was somewhat cool and loading maps into the BD box and I could see a change in the way it ran on the stand with each map but then it will start running bad. I swapped the stock m1000 pipe sensor back into the sled and with that one in it, it will run bad faster.
I feel like im chasing my tail at this point.

 

[lightening800]

also the m1 had issues with the wires rubbing thru under the tank, this happened to mine but mine would cut out but you never know what else it could cause. you could also try unplugging you aux inj andsee if it cleans it up, wont hurt it for a quick rip its a midrange problem anyway.

 

[Ricks 32]

Man this is frustrating. I had a riding buddy in Rexburg who had some similar issues with a BD setup. He also bought a propane Apex and Brad Story did the install on the Apex. My friend was explaining to Brad his troubles on the TM1000 and Brad seemed to know his issue. Brad had my friend wrap his pipe with heat wrap, but a different box on it (pretty sure it was a PL box) and adjust the fuel pressure. I wish I knew the settings but I don't. My friends sled was an '08.

I know that it wasn't anything big that he had to do, but after he added what Brad had suggested to his TM1000, his propane Apex didn't get rode too much. The TM1000 was a freakin animal. But I remember the frustrations he'd go through trying to get that 1000 to work with the BD box.

I kinda like the BD box b/c it gives you so much adjustability on the fly but I also think it can hurt you as well b/c we can tinker with stuff too much. I'm learning that for the TM1000, using a pre-programed Attitude or PL Box really helps with the headache and is pretty quick to fine tune your sled to your liking. I do know 3 guys that have BD kits and after a year or two fighting with them, they are all using a remedy from OVS with great luck.

I'd give Twisted Turbo a call or Travis or Gar at OVS. I know both shops have a nice fix for the BD setup's. I hate to shed a poor light over BD b/c I live in their backyard, but the only 1000's I've seen really work from them are the ones they personally ride. I think you need to be a master at the BD box to get it to work on the 1000. I for one am not that smart. I think the BD kit is good, but I'd use a box that's already pre-programed. Again, give Travis a call at OVS.

Good luck!!

 

[WyoBoy1000]

I would like to know what happens if you unplug the temp sensor, My friend has a EBC kit with updated wiring harness, after update ran great for 5-6rides and today he is ready to burn it to the ground, Makes one good pull and then on its face. BooneDickers needs to step up with this, it is getting ridiculous.

Cant remember, have you looked at your reeds.

 

[MAINJET]

I'm not sure checking things out on a stand is going to help? I'll stand to be corrected, but I don't think you'll build much boost without resistance. I've been watching temps and a/f on my M1000 and TM8 and I've noticed that I run the hottest temps when when I've got a load on my sled. When I'm going down a trail and the track is hooking up completely, my temps are high 1200's and I can tell the sled is working. When I'm climbing WOT in powder I rarely get the 1200 temps. Just out of curiosity I jacked up my TM8 and it wouldn't build over 5lbs boost at WOT with no resistance. And my TM8 is set at 13 lbs and it runs amazing in the snow.

If I'm way off here then someone please correct me. I'd try to get out in a wide open hill and play with the BD box in the mid range until you find your settings. I took an '09 TD8 with a BD RG kit out two weeks ago and it took about 30 minutes and 20 passes up a small hill to get it dialed.

No bashing intended here. I just don't think a setup on a jack is going to give you a real world scenario.

Good luck.

X2

 

[JHG]

Sent you a PM

 

[WyoBoy1000]

On friends sled, found traces of water in electrical connectors and baro tube, not sure if its fixed or not, just letting you know.

 

[snwman77]

What a pain in the a$$ this m1000 has become!!!!! If I could go back in time I would not have bought it. As I wrote before things went down hill right from the start when the wrong parts got sent to me from BD. I feel if they had not fuct things up from the start this sled would have been running a long time ago. Now its just a big waste of money at this point in the snowmobile season. So I took the turbo off the sled and put it back to stock and it runs fine. I started this thread to help anyone that has or was thinking of buying an old m1000 that has a BD race gas kit and wanted to update it.
Dont waste your time and money like I feel I did!

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Are you going to sell the left overs.