Skid shocks
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Jeffy Mac
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Be careful how far you go. There is a min and max on preload for the spring range. The spring in the pics is way over spring and out of its range. You know why the shocks were replaced ? max is 6.25” of preload and min is 6.5” I’m same weight as you guys and I run 6.25” with the high speed at 5 clicks out from fully seated from the right and 10 clicks on low speed. If u want it to transfer and wheelie more turn both high speed and low speed to the right closed but make sure there not closed all the way maybe back a click and make the rear track shock all the way soft. My 165 goes over backwards when I do that
I think before I do anymore turning on the preload, I’ll bump up the clickers like you mention and get a feel for that. I don’t think I have adjusted the clickers since day 1 when I just centered both. Then maybe a little turn if needed. I do not want wheelies everywhere and I don’t want to trench to the dirt. The sled is incredibly easy to ride, I’m just very picky about suspension response.
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Jeffy Mac
Active member
Yes I agree. These specs are out of the Manuel. Brett Turcotte has a cpl good videos on YouTube called 3 minute Thursday’s suspension set up he does the front shocks rear skid shocks then one on where he ended up with his final settings.
I agree with you. My 165 khaos with 2.75 feels great will little adjusts to clickers and spring preload
I just looked in my manual and it shows different specs for minimum installed height on the FTS
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Preload controls how much of the travel gets used while the LSC and HSC control how quickly it gets used.
The rubber stoppers can be a good way to understand how much travel you're using. Push them all the way up, ride how you typically ride and adjust pre-load based on what they tell you. You want to use all your travel so be sure you are bottoming out on ~10% of the hits. Polaris baselines are a great starting point.
I have definitely noticed a difference in the LSC changes to the rear skid. Ultimately it will always be a sliding scale between ski lift/trench and track lift/playfulness unless you have IQS
The rubber stoppers can be a good way to understand how much travel you're using. Push them all the way up, ride how you typically ride and adjust pre-load based on what they tell you. You want to use all your travel so be sure you are bottoming out on ~10% of the hits. Polaris baselines are a great starting point.
I have definitely noticed a difference in the LSC changes to the rear skid. Ultimately it will always be a sliding scale between ski lift/trench and track lift/playfulness unless you have IQS
Preload also adjusts the way the sled transfers weight front to rear. Reguardless of how much travel is used
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I changed the clickers 5-10times each ride, every ride, for the first few hundred miles.
One extreme to the other and everything in between.
I had a pretty extensive log of every setting and the results.
The worst part about the rear shock is mobbing the huge moguls in springtime. It soaks up 3-5 and then kicks u out sideways.
I like the simple 3 clicks on the fox shocks.
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One extreme to the other and everything in between.
I had a pretty extensive log of every setting and the results.
The worst part about the rear shock is mobbing the huge moguls in springtime. It soaks up 3-5 and then kicks u out sideways.
I like the simple 3 clicks on the fox shocks.
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Jeffy Mac
Active member
Ya aftermarket suspension is definetly better but just for ****s and giggles what settings worked best for u in the mountains
I think this is where i left off.
(F=factory)
It sucks trying to keep track of where all these knobs are, no quick way to check,gotta turn each one all the way in and count, even if u haven't touched them, trees can turn ur ski shock knobs too!
Max out clockwise, count clicks counterclockwise.
Black- Low
Red- High
Skis, 8threads (F-H4,L6)H3, L2/L4
FTS, 10threads (F-H4,L6)H3, L2
RTS, 8threads (F-H4,L6)H4, L4
Try H6, L10 for wheelies.
I know i have put more than ideal preload on FTS, still couldn't get the steering and handling i was looking for. I had to buy both rear shocks as a kit, i would have been fine just replacing the RTS.
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(F=factory)
It sucks trying to keep track of where all these knobs are, no quick way to check,gotta turn each one all the way in and count, even if u haven't touched them, trees can turn ur ski shock knobs too!
Max out clockwise, count clicks counterclockwise.
Black- Low
Red- High
Skis, 8threads (F-H4,L6)H3, L2/L4
FTS, 10threads (F-H4,L6)H3, L2
RTS, 8threads (F-H4,L6)H4, L4
Try H6, L10 for wheelies.
I know i have put more than ideal preload on FTS, still couldn't get the steering and handling i was looking for. I had to buy both rear shocks as a kit, i would have been fine just replacing the RTS.
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Jeffy Mac
Active member
That was on a 165 Khaos.? It must have trenched a lot
155.
No trenching.
It wheelies better now with fox shock.
We'll see how it handles the moguls this spring.
That #3 sure tames the hill when u need it!
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Jeffy Mac
Active member
Ya I had an Alpha for the last cpl years with QS3’s and when I needed to go up the rear went into lockout #3 and the fts went into #1
Any updates? Did you find some decent settings?
I gave the front track shock 1 more turn and bumped the clickers up 2 and backed the clickers (on the rear track shock) off 3.
Seems better I’m not 100% sold on it yet.
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