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TRA settups...attn clutch guru's

My heat gun doesnt fit in my back pack, can I just take my track Dyno up in the mountains to tune ? LOL

Im working on a collapsable trackstand to put in my backpack so i can tune at 10K. I already have the portable DeWalt handy so i can grind the correct profile on the ramps for riding at 10K.....You ever see the ice fisherman towing his portable gear behind his sled ???? How about the "DynoTrek" ....take it anywhere.

OT
 
OOPS! You weren't keeping up there Tollen. The Polar transfers all the engine power all the time. It is amazing. I ride pretty much the same areas all the time, at the same times of year, in the same snow conditions, on the same sled and have ran the TRA, C109 and Polar clutches on the same sled. From those tests I found the Polar consistantly pulled better all the time. And I never blew a belt on the Polar.

I also ride with guys on Turbo Yamaha, Polaris 800/800, Arctic Cat 1000 and 06 and 08 REV800, so I also get to compare sled to sled as well. I have also test rode Dynamo Joe clutching on an 06 800. It was pretty good on the trail, sucked in the mountains as the elevation changes are just too large.

The big dog sled are interesting to ride with, but the Polar consistantly delivered better power to the track than the Polaris and REV sleds. Then on days when I had to run the TRA as I had busted the Polar, I would just be running as badly as everyone else, which seemed to make people happy for some reason. On days when I have the Polar bolted on they think I'm cheating and they get touchy. Bunch of grumps.

I am sure there must be times when the TRA is just as good, but the conditions and clutch settings have to be just perfect, and that situtation doesn't last more than a couple minites in the mountains we ride. The only thing I like to go under the hood for is the Hot Pot cooker or to put away the empty beverage cans.

The Polar is just one of those things that works great in practice, but how do you explain it in theory? Oh, and I only run the same stock Doo 07 secondary all the time.

I also had to look at that Swedish electric clutch and it is not a mountain clutch, it would react way too slow. Good enough for touring or pulling logs like in the video. It is needs time to think and activate some clutch control device, and that's too slow, the party is over before it started. By the time it catches up conditions have changed again. Just one of those things that has it's place, but not when it's time to Rock and Roll!



OK YDPC, I'm not going to argue with you regarding power transfer of the polar... you've made up your mind. We'll just have to agree to disagree.

As for the electric clutch, no doubt the thing doesn't perform yet. The options that I mentioned aren't even on the clutch yet.... it's in development. What I mean, is the possibility exists for this clutch, after A LOT of development, to be the holy grail of clutching. If they can get everything figured out, it will be awesome. But that's at minimum a few years, and more likely a decade away.

Oh, and for those that still don't believe that the TRA creates more force on the belt when you lower the ramp, check this out.


Some very clear pics to show exactly how the TRA works.


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OK YDPC, I'm not going to argue with you regarding power transfer of the polar... you've made up your mind. We'll just have to agree to disagree.

As for the electric clutch, no doubt the thing doesn't perform yet. The options that I mentioned aren't even on the clutch yet.... it's in development. What I mean, is the possibility exists for this clutch, after A LOT of development, to be the holy grail of clutching. If they can get everything figured out, it will be awesome. But that's at minimum a few years, and more likely a decade away.

Oh, and for those that still don't believe that the TRA creates more force on the belt when you lower the ramp, check this out.


Some very clear pics to show exactly how the TRA works.


.

Oh, I love it when guys just agree to disagree! If we all agreed then what would be the fun in that? If we all ran the same 350 Chevy small block that would be no fun either.

I think it is great to have a some die-hard TRA fans in the hills, as it is important to be able to compare stuff. How would you know which clutch is better if every one had a Polar clutch on their Rotax power?

Besides someone has to keep BRP honest. If we all ran that TRA crap, BRP could just sit back and collect the money. Nobody would be any the wiser or able to know for sure that BRP is dooing you wrong. Aw it's obvious BRP doesn't care, just look at the number one top topic regarding the BRP sled in the mountains. The TRA! People cutting holes in their nice sleds, no stable rpms and blowing belts. That is just miserable.

OK, maybe I'm just making it worse because the TRA boys are always buying more crap to "tune" the Bouncing Betty. TRA parts sales means more money for BRP... Hmmm... It would sure make a lot of people mad if BRP tossed in the towel on the TRA, all that money and wasted time down the drain. Hmmm... All those after market shops, lots of vested interest in keeping that TRA around. Tough call.


But back to the TRA -

The TRA creating more force out of nothing is physically impossible. If you used a 5 ton press to squish the drive belt between the sheaves while it was rotating, what would happen? The belt would squirt out and move to the outside of the sheaves. Right?

But you could keep the belt between the primary sheaves by putting enough tension on the belt, until the belt busted. So the force is limited by what the secondary can contain in tension. Right?

What make the force that pushes the sheaves together? The weights, and only the weights, force the sheaves together. IF you make the work of the weights more difficult by using tight binding bushings, big coil springs, adding dirt and rust to the ramps, steeper ramps and so on, what happens? The force of the weights gets used up, and you need more weight. You add too much weight and the secondary gives up or the belt busts.

The TRA can't put anymore tension on the belt than any other clutch, so to say the TRA creates more force is physically impossible. It's just that the TRA is a bastard to run because the design of the clutch is to suck up lots of the good force produced by balancing the weights against the parasitic architecture of the TRA. The big main TRA spring that needs to be over come, and balanced against, is at the core of the problem. The ramps need a good curve to combat the springs compression curve, and that curve needs a constant power input and a set sled weight as a base line. It's becomes a real mess in the mountain environment when those things change all the time.

Anyway good luck, and keep trying to get that TRA to run. Don't let it drive you nuts. I'm counting on you!

CIMG1892 (Small).JPG
 
Oh, I love it when guys just agree to disagree! If we all agreed then what would be the fun in that? If we all ran the same 350 Chevy small block that would be no fun either.

I think it is great to have a some die-hard TRA fans in the hills, as it is important to be able to compare stuff. How would you know which clutch is better if every one had a Polar clutch on their Rotax power?

Besides someone has to keep BRP honest. If we all ran that TRA crap, BRP could just sit back and collect the money. Nobody would be any the wiser or able to know for sure that BRP is dooing you wrong. Aw it's obvious BRP doesn't care, just look at the number one top topic regarding the BRP sled in the mountains. The TRA! People cutting holes in their nice sleds, no stable rpms and blowing belts. That is just miserable.

OK, maybe I'm just making it worse because the TRA boys are always buying more crap to "tune" the Bouncing Betty. TRA parts sales means more money for BRP... Hmmm... It would sure make a lot of people mad if BRP tossed in the towel on the TRA, all that money and wasted time down the drain. Hmmm... All those after market shops, lots of vested interest in keeping that TRA around. Tough call.


But back to the TRA -

The TRA creating more force out of nothing is physically impossible. If you used a 5 ton press to squish the drive belt between the sheaves while it was rotating, what would happen? The belt would squirt out and move to the outside of the sheaves. Right?

But you could keep the belt between the primary sheaves by putting enough tension on the belt, until the belt busted. So the force is limited by what the secondary can contain in tension. Right?

What make the force that pushes the sheaves together? The weights, and only the weights, force the sheaves together. IF you make the work of the weights more difficult by using tight binding bushings, big coil springs, adding dirt and rust to the ramps, steeper ramps and so on, what happens? The force of the weights gets used up, and you need more weight. You add too much weight and the secondary gives up or the belt busts.

The TRA can't put anymore tension on the belt than any other clutch, so to say the TRA creates more force is physically impossible. It's just that the TRA is a bastard to run because the design of the clutch is to suck up lots of the good force produced by balancing the weights against the parasitic architecture of the TRA. The big main TRA spring that needs to be over come, and balanced against, is at the core of the problem. The ramps need a good curve to combat the springs compression curve, and that curve needs a constant power input and a set sled weight as a base line. It's becomes a real mess in the mountain environment when those things change all the time.

Anyway good luck, and keep trying to get that TRA to run. Don't let it drive you nuts. I'm counting on you!


"What make the force that pushes the sheaves together? The weights, and only the weights, force the sheaves together."

The weight of the arm are a part of the equation, yes, but they are only a part of the equation. Force = mass x acceleration right? Weight (or more correctly, mass) is only half the equation. The other half is accleration.

For constant circular motion: acceleration = velocity^2 / radius

Velocity can be found using the formula: v = 2pi * radius * frequency

1) frequency = 8,200 RPM * 1 min/60 seconds * 2pi = 858.27 radians/second

2) radius = the measurement (in metres) from the centerline to the point the roller touches the ramp.

Radius and ramp angle are the keys here. The greater the radius, the greater the force. (Think of a water skier behind a boat. When the boat makes a turn, the longer the rope, the faster and the greater the force the skier travels with.

The thinner the ramp the further the arm can swing out and therefore the greater the force it has to push.

(There is more to this as well, though I think it`s been argued to death in prior posts. Suffice it to say, not all of the centri***al force of the arm gets transmitted to pushing the sheave closed. Some of the force tries to pull the arm away from the centerline and tear the arm away from the clutch, though this is the same for anything that spins, including the Polar. The basics are, the flatter the ramp, the more of this force is transmitted to closing the moveable sheave.)


"The TRA creating more force out of nothing is physically impossible."

I'm not implying the TRA creates force out of nothing, I'm saying that IF (big IF) the TRA is tuned correctly, it wastes less energy than any other clutch simply because it has so many ways to adjust for different conditions.

YDPC, when your sled gains altitude and begins to make less power, how do you decrease the amount the Polar squeezes the belt? Or when your sled comes down from altitude and begins to make more power, how do you increase the clamping forces the clutch provides on the belt? If you can't adjust either of these things then you are losing power due to friction from too much or too little belt pinch, right?

You can argue that the TRA is tempermental, that it's difficult to tune properly, that it is rarely tuned correctly or that it is just too complicated. Argue that and I'll agree with you completely. I'll even agree with you that your Polar clutch is less fussy and easier to tune... no argument here. My contention is that any clutch design that doesn't have the same degree (or even greater) of adjustability as the TRA does leaves power (because of excess friction) on the table. A non-adjustable clutch either pinches the belt too hard when the engine is making less power (causing friction) or doesn't pinch the belt hard enough when the engine is making more power (again, causing friction through slippage).


"IF you make the work of the weights more difficult by using tight binding bushings, big coil springs, adding dirt and rust to the ramps, steeper ramps and so on, what happens? The force of the weights gets used up, and you need more weight. You add too much weight and the secondary gives up or the belt busts."

Clean the clutch!


"The big main TRA spring that needs to be over come, and balanced against, is at the core of the problem. The ramps need a good curve to combat the springs compression curve, and that curve needs a constant power input and a set sled weight as a base line. It's becomes a real mess in the mountain environment when those things change all the time."

I think we've established that most clutches use similar springs with similar spring forces. I'll leave that alone.

But more importantly I like the part of your quote that I've underlined. Conditions on the mountian change all the time. You need to be able to adjust your clutching to compensate for each and every change you find. The QRS is a great clutch design but IMO needs to have an adjustable ramp helix to take advantage of all it's capable of. The TRA has this adjustability and it's that adjustability that I that makes it best clutch on the hill.

I will say this, if Polar makes a clutch in the future that has this adjustability built in to it, I will be the first in line to check it out and see if it was an improvement. I have no loyalty to the TRA. Find me a better, more adjustable, clutch and I'm there.





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....The TRA can't put anymore tension on the belt than any other clutch, so to say the TRA creates more force is physically impossible....

uuuhhhh, I guess the thousands of drag racers that use them because they can exert more "squeeze" on the belt (yes, physically) than most other clutches might want to disagree with that statement. :)

Got holeshot?

Stop arguing about 11th grade physics and stop the pee-pee measuring. All you guys are doing is going round in circles with the same arguments. 12 pages about what squeezes the belt.......

As I have already said, find a setup that works good and ride. You will not be able to clutch for all riding styles, in all conditions for every hill. Even if you can, who the ***g cares??? "My belt is 100 degrees cooler than yours". Big deal. Why you were measuring that temp with the heat gun and setting up the ***gin dealership parts dept on the hill, I put on 40 kms. Spend all day on the hill grinding ramps with a dremel, disassembling the clutch after every run to change springs, on a STOCK sled. Someone mentioned Ferrari? None of these sleds are Ferrari's and therefore none are worth that much time and effort.

If clutching is your hobby.....time to get a new hobby.

:D
 
Ramps are motionless parts - They are not active, they do not move.
Ramps do not apply force to anything. They are still, they exhibit the most excellent example of inertia - they stay still.
Ramps allow a change of distance between the TRA lever roller position and crankshaft centerline.

The levers are moving parts - They are active upon rpm. The lever moves with a swing motion, swinging away from the crankshaft centerline.
Lever apply force, pushing on the sliding sheave.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Clicker (ramp angles) determines 2 elements of rpms.

1. Steady shift rpms under full throttle - ramp angle determines rpms as shift increases

Lower clicker value = Lower ramp angle the rpms will be lower
Higher clicker value = Higher ramp angle, the rpms will be higher = the higher angle "stalls the push" of the lever = The engine will have to produce more rpms to overcome the angle of the ramp to continue to shift/push.

Lower ramp angle the rpms may drift from one rpm to a lower rpm.
Higher ramp angle the rpms may drift from one rpm to a higher rpm.
- Calibrate with a clicker number that will allow straight shift / rpms.


2. Rpm acceleration under full throttle. - Ramp angle determines how quick the engine rpm accelerates from one rpm to a higher rpm.
Lower angle the engine will respond slower (time in seconds)
Higher angle the engine will respond quicker (time in seconds) = the higher angle "stalls the push" of the lever = The engine will have to produce more rpms to overcome the angle of the ramp to continue to shift/push.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
When clicker number is lowered, the ramp angle is lowered. The Lever is allowed to push harder - the roller on the lever will be at a farther away position from the crankshaft centerline.

Quotes 09 handbook - Pg 119.
In calibrating clutches, the objective will be to maintain as horizontal line as possible between low ratio and high ratio. This shift speed must be as close as possible to the engine peak hp rpm. aka - Calibrate with a clicker number that will allow straight shift / rpms.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

I make my own ramps for tuners. I make my own ramps for myself. I am making a ramp for the xp sled in fact.
All I know is what I mentioned in 1. and 2. and memorize that.
I look at ramps and compare them and this is the major detail that matters to me - the ramp angle is lowered. The Lever is allowed to push harder - the roller on the lever will be at a farther away position from the crankshaft centerline.
When I compare ramps, I think of roller position away from the crankshaft due to ramp angle.

...it's not smoke and mirrors, with that thought it is easy to compare ramps accurately and have a good vision of their different performance.
 
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uuuhhhh, I guess the thousands of drag racers that use them because they can exert more "squeeze" on the belt (yes, physically) than most other clutches might want to disagree with that statement. :)

Got holeshot?

Stop arguing about 11th grade physics and stop the pee-pee measuring. All you guys are doing is going round in circles with the same arguments. 12 pages about what squeezes the belt.......

As I have already said, find a setup that works good and ride. You will not be able to clutch for all riding styles, in all conditions for every hill. Even if you can, who the ***g cares??? "My belt is 100 degrees cooler than yours". Big deal. Why you were measuring that temp with the heat gun and setting up the ***gin dealership parts dept on the hill, I put on 40 kms. Spend all day on the hill grinding ramps with a dremel, disassembling the clutch after every run to change springs, on a STOCK sled. Someone mentioned Ferrari? None of these sleds are Ferrari's and therefore none are worth that much time and effort.

If clutching is your hobby.....time to get a new hobby.

:D



Too each their own I guess.... though if you're so turned off by the subject of our conversation I have no idea why. I'm sure no one forced you to read the entirety of the thread only to conclude that 12 pages wasn't worth it.

Don't like the topic? Go somewhere else!


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I have no issues with eating belts, performance, track speed etc...But there is still one thing about the TRA that I would like to improve upon and want input from anyone that has found a cure (or a way to minimize) the RPM variation in different snow conditions and terrain. I have a 800R 159 that runs VERY good, but they are a peaky engine....run under 8100 and you missing out, over 8400 and you are too high. I find with just about any settup that I have to run 2 clicker setings lower on the flats (or firmer snow) than I do when climbing or in the deep. I am VERY picky on my clutching and always want peak performance so I find myself playing with clickers 2-3 times/ride as I go from road to the play areas.
Has anyone found a good mountain settup that shows consistant RPM in a variety of conditions?
And yes, my TRA`7 is in good shape...it's not the clutch itself, just the classis TRA behavior.....is there a cure besides a P-85 or quick clickers??:beer;

Here ya go tollen77....here's the original topic that you have massacred. Do you have a set-up to share with Winter Brew? No? Go somewhere else.
 
Here ya go tollen77....here's the original topic that you have massacred. Do you have a set-up to share with Winter Brew? No? Go somewhere else.


Why does a discussion about something as benign as clutching have to get personal. That ought to really move the conversation forward.

"I am VERY picky on my clutching and always want peak performance so I find myself playing with clickers 2-3 times/ride as I go from road to the play areas.
Has anyone found a good mountain settup that shows consistant RPM in a variety of conditions?"


I'm not too sure how more talk of clutching is massacring the subject Dave.... care to explain?

Either way, talking clutching with you is like explaining the merits of evolution to a creationist. No matter what you hear, you're going to cover your ears, suck on your thumb and run to your mommy to set up your sled.



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Ahh...the internet. So fun. You think you know me. Yes....I am a young boy and have had Mom set up my last 7 or 8 sleds....but I'm ready to reach out on my own and attempt some clutching. Maybe with your fancy university math you can actually figure something out for yourself....but not likely. When I was in university in 1985 I never got all that stuff figured out. Thank gawd you're here.

You know what Winter Brew has learned? (which I'm sure he knew before anyways) Nobody posts set-ups that work. Period. Dynamo Joe is a great educator....I've learned lots from him. But seriously....want a set-up? Get out your wallet, Mr. University. hahahaha.

You've got your own little thread about ramps....Teton and YDPC can hassle you there just as easy as here. But don't go telling Nosecondchances to "go somewhere else" when YOU are the main poacher in this thread.

69 posts on SW and all but 12 in this thread and your ramp thread. Spread your wings....meet some people. Notice Teton never did tell you what Renton Ti springs to use? Hahaha.
 
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WOW, just wadded throught that whole thing, and after looking back at physics stuff, and spinning in circles and thinking, i get how the TRA functions now, or at least the primary, and the whole weight/ ramp thing, but thats only one small part of the puzzle, thanks for all the info gents, i get the TRA a lot better now, time to go mess with mine!!
 
ermm...Dave, thanks for the props on mentioning I like to educate there but umm, I dunno if I deserve that kind of status. I just try and review theory over with people's problems/questions. :face-icon-small-blu
Sometimes I should keep my mouth shut, but today a gentleman messaged me asking me what was important to me on ramps and ask if I reply in this topic. I just said what was on my mind that is important to me.
Joey

------------------------------------------

After going through engineering in school back in early 90's I used to be fascinated with trying to do the force calculations and then I thought to myself "yeah this can be done but what does it tell me?" It told me calculations can be done but after so much testing I look back and think that in the end the sled told me what to do and you don't have to be a math type - believe me I am not. Nowadays I would have a hard enough time doing long division...its been too long.

I re-read Aaen's book, cutler's blatant copy of aaen's book, then brp books, Acat race handbooks and in the end what Al Shimpa (Acat Race sled development) told me to do was "Look at the tach and what do you see?" What he said was the common denominator of all the theory books said - In the end the sled tell's it's tale through the tach and proves the theory and no very exorbitant calculations needed.
Let the sled tell you what is happening. Make a decision based on theory you know. Make another run, Let the sled tell you what is happening.

I have had the fortune to work and/or correspond with the most winningest tuners in their field and I don't even mean racing, I include guys who just drive their sled and tune it the best it can be - they can recall the theory they read and apply it to their own situation.

My opinion if a tuner can recall theory to a problem they hear from another tuner, they should help out by sharing their own experiences. There are too many curious tuners who share good experiences, don't pass up an opportunity to share "theory"...........Not Setups!


hmm....here I go rambling again.

blah :face-icon-small-sho
 
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YDPC, when your sled gains altitude and begins to make less power, how do you decrease the amount the Polar squeezes the belt? Or when your sled comes down from altitude and begins to make more power, how do you increase the clamping forces the clutch provides on the belt? If you can't adjust either of these things then you are losing power due to friction from too much or too little belt pinch, right?

.


WOuldnt that be more of the secondary's job tho, really. More power 'Availible' from engine, secondary should open up...Ohh wait, Secondary only senses load on the track. and Primary only senses RPM. Nothing tells the clutch what power the engine is making at a certian RPM....
So, Engine makes more power, but track load has not changed. So, extra power is changed into more RPM. WHICH, we all know, over reving and you LOOSE power fast.


I think I just had an apiffany (SP)

So engine makes more power, what do you do to keep rev's down....

CLICKERS. Lower the ramp angle, allowing more radius on the weights, and closing the secondary more. making belt ride higher, effectively, taller gear, more load on engine. Trackspeed may, or may NOT increase, depends on how much belt slip there is.


Ohh I need a Shrink, my heads gona explode....

I gotta get to some snow. I have about 200 hrs of testing to do LOL
 
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WOuldnt that be more of the secondary's job tho, really. More power 'Availible' from engine, secondary should open up...Ohh wait, Secondary only senses load on the track. and Primary only senses RPM. Nothing tells the clutch what power the engine is making at a certian RPM....
So, Engine makes more power, but track load has not changed. So, extra power is changed into more RPM. WHICH, we all know, over reving and you LOOSE power fast.


I think I just had an apiffany (SP)

So engine makes more power, what do you do to keep rev's down....

CLICKERS. Lower the ramp angle, allowing more radius on the weights, and closing the secondary more. making belt ride higher, effectively, taller gear, more load on engine. Trackspeed may, or may NOT increase, depends on how much belt slip there is.


Ohh I need a Shrink, my heads gona explode....

I gotta get to some snow. I have about 200 hrs of testing to do LOL



That's exactly how I understand it Bandit. IMO when your sled is making more power and is under the same snow load you increase the belt squeeze and decrease RPM by clicking down along with increasing the helix angle very slightly (if you have one of them new fangled shockwave helix's). increasing the helix angle should transfer a little more load from the track to the engine (transfer it a little faster anyway) which will take advantage of your new-found horsepower.

I should mention, I haven't been able to put any miles on my new shockwave yet but in theory, that's what you do. We'll see how good it works in a couple weeks... week long trip to Valemount to do nothing but ride.... gonna be sweet!!!


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I wish they'd make a shockwave for the old Formula secondarys. I cant afford a REV or XP now. To buisy dumping what would be sled payments into my TRA LOL

$100/helix have I think 6
$35ea ramps got 5 sets
$40 springs Ohh atleast a dozen kicking around here


It sure doesnt take long to go broke when you dont know what your doing.


Im glad Im getting a handle on this. Will be putting the freshtly Powdercoated front end back together tomorrow, maybe sneak a ride in before dark, if not Thurs I gotta do some tests. This Bench Dyno sux for results
 
I wish they'd make a shockwave for the old Formula secondarys. I cant afford a REV or XP now. To buisy dumping what would be sled payments into my TRA LOL

$100/helix have I think 6
$35ea ramps got 5 sets
$40 springs Ohh atleast a dozen kicking around here


It sure doesnt take long to go broke when you dont know what your doing.


Im glad Im getting a handle on this. Will be putting the freshtly Powdercoated front end back together tomorrow, maybe sneak a ride in before dark, if not Thurs I gotta do some tests. This Bench Dyno sux for results

I like that DJ guy. If anyone is going to get the best out of the TRA it has got to be him. Like I say I've had the pleasure of riding one of his set ups on the trail and I was impressed. Once we moved up the mountain a couple thousand feet I never had a chance to ride with the the guy again. I looked back once and saw them playing on the far side of the valley and he didn't seem to be doing so well and I didn't want to go back.

I'll bow to DJ on this one, but I'm going to take a guess that the belt pinch (pressure on the belt) is the same on the Polar and the TRA or any clutch (assuming the same secondary), once the belt is forced out of the bottom of the primary and the belt starts to move up. In order for the belt to move up the primary it has to force the secondary apart, and that determines the pressure on the belt, because the belt can't stretch. There is no such thing as "more" belt pinch once the secondary squeeze is overcome and the secondary starts to move apart. The more you try to squeeze the more the belt is going to move.

Sorry don't know about holeshot. It has no application in the mountains that I can think of. But I hear the Polar ATAC dominates in the tramac race tracks through out the USA and Canada. So maybe the Polar is as good or better, who knows? Don't know why they don't use the TRA if it is better. You will have to ask the people that do that summer stuff. I'm told that 1/10 of second is a big deal in those races, so holeshot must be part of the pie.
 
Too each their own I guess.... though if you're so turned off by the subject of our conversation I have no idea why. I'm sure no one forced you to read the entirety of the thread only to conclude that 12 pages wasn't worth it.

Don't like the topic? Go somewhere else!


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Never said I was turned off by the topic, re-read my post. Its a great topic, don't get me wrong, my apologies if you got that from my post. I'm turned off at the arguing back and forth about what generates squeeze force, what part(s) generate that force and what that force then does and where it is transmitted. You don't have to read the whole 14 pages, everything between page 2 and 12 is the same. But I digress....like I said, find a good setup and go from there. If your thing is clutching, OK, but it seems apparent from this thread that if people are still working with the TRA clutching and arguing about which parts complete which function, they haven't figured out the TRA and how to make it work. Some of us have however, without Mom's help :), but I guess we all just came across it by sheer dumb luck and weren't able to figure it out on our own.

Anyway, I wish you all the best on your clutching endeavours. I'll keep my mouth shut from here on out.:beer;:)
 
Never said I was turned off by the topic, re-read my post. Its a great topic, don't get me wrong, my apologies if you got that from my post. I'm turned off at the arguing back and forth about what generates squeeze force, what part(s) generate that force and what that force then does and where it is transmitted. You don't have to read the whole 14 pages, everything between page 2 and 12 is the same. But I digress....like I said, find a good setup and go from there. If your thing is clutching, OK, but it seems apparent from this thread that if people are still working with the TRA clutching and arguing about which parts complete which function, they haven't figured out the TRA and how to make it work. Some of us have however, without Mom's help :), but I guess we all just came across it by sheer dumb luck and weren't able to figure it out on our own.

Anyway, I wish you all the best on your clutching endeavours. I'll keep my mouth shut from here on out.:beer;:)

If you have it all figured out, why dont you work for DJ, or better yet, start your own Clutch company. Would make Millions I bet.
 
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