tired of getting beat
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powderpounder
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I think I know that sled and it was climbing well the ride before you got it. Climbing not draging. It was reving to high though. 83g weights will help and possible a new belt. If you can afford a y-pipe I can give you a deal on that pm me. That rmk should not stand a chance climbing do not know about draging though.
how tired are you?....$$$$$......if it were mine, speedwerx y-pipe, lightweight can (jaws, hps)......speedwerx big air kit, along with some drilled out holes (1/2 inch) in the air box, covered with a breathable mesh, not frogskinz....if you leave your clutching stock, make sure you have enough weight in the front clutch to pull close to 7200 rpm....are you getting good weight transfer?, do the skiis come off ground at least a little when you launch from a dead stop?....if you want to change clutching, a 40 degree helix will help give a strong launch, and still work in the powder in the hills....so methodically start doing these things, they will work....so if you want to beat him.....this will do it...
in most cases there is not much difference between a good running edge and a not so good m1000. First you need to run a real race. Out of a 09 dragon 800 a 05 rt 1000 and a 03 rmk 800 the 03 rmk was the closest to my stock 09 m1000. A y-pipe and can works good on a m1000 but with the proper amount of fuel and clutching it will rip, just throwing some mods on and saying "cool" doesnt cut it. although some respond better than others. Some even say the stock pipe builds better power.(False) My friend has a y and can on the same sled and mine has the full slp, he weighs 60lbs lighter than me and can't go where I can. the 060 belt slips less than the 046 which can only mean that if the 060 doesn't work 046 does your clutching is off and your fixing it with slippage from an inferior clutch setup. Bad thing is, the stock motor mount suck so bad that the slippage helps with backshift. Go run in the hills and see how it compares, and don't let off the throttle the PC will keep going.
when I had my 07 with full slp pipe any sled beat me off the line usually by 3-3 lengths, and about (2-250ft) 7-8 sled lengths later I would fly by a good 10-15mph faster and keep pulling.
when I had my 07 with full slp pipe any sled beat me off the line usually by 3-3 lengths, and about (2-250ft) 7-8 sled lengths later I would fly by a good 10-15mph faster and keep pulling.
ok, we ran the sleds in the mountains up a fairly decent incline in a foot of fresh and for several hundred meters and same thing....dead even. so i need to work on the clutching obviously. going to try a straight 40 helix, and play with the weights to get desired rpm and see what happens...my main concern is to b good in the deep stuff. i could care less about going 100mph to win a drag
I just added a d&d shift assist and hi torque rollers to my m8 and i am very happy with the results it made a real noticable difference in how my machine engages and backshifts and i would also get your clutching checked and i don't think a straight 40 will be the right answer it may even be worse, just a thought for ya.
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Don't do to many things at once. I don't think with a stock piped sled you want to run a 40 helix, ( don't jump on the band wagon until you know where it is) Get your rpm down first, One of the best things for powder riding is the 09 tunnel. the older tunnels drag a lot and the PC can't work its magic.
exactly what wyoboy said, 1 thing at a time & get your rpm's where they need to be. I've heard of the guages being off, but they are generally the benchmark that we go by, so just use it. Like others said, 7500 is WAY high.7100-7250 is what we shoot for.
fyi, at 10-13k feet we were running 80gm weights in our 08 with Y & intake.
also see that you're running a snopro intake, that intake & a Y like each other a lot & with the 07 map you should be fine with both. (obviously check plugs or get egt to be sure)
fyi, at 10-13k feet we were running 80gm weights in our 08 with Y & intake.
also see that you're running a snopro intake, that intake & a Y like each other a lot & with the 07 map you should be fine with both. (obviously check plugs or get egt to be sure)
ok thanx guys. great info, but i have another question now, and i think i started a post for it. what is ther best way to drop a few hundred rpm? more weight? stiffer secondary spring? different helixs? i also noticed that i was running around 7300 rpm at 7000ft...should i b losing rpm with altitude?
sry for all the questions...i dont know jack about clutching
sry for all the questions...i dont know jack about clutching
Yes you will lose rpm with altitude. The higher you are the less air there is. Less air= less power= lower rpm. This is why there is different clutch set ups for higher elevations.
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