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~~The Official Phazer Thread~~

So I bought a 2" riser for my wifes Phazer, but I now need some LONG bolts, you guys with a riser block where did you manage to find some?? Stock bolts are 9" long and I need 11" long ones?
 
Anyone know what temp the fan is supposed to kick on at? I'm pretty certain its stock. Its a panasonic fan and its wires all in with the stock wiring harness. started the sled today and let it run till the temp reached 176 but the fan was not spinning yet?:confused:
 
Phazer 151" track & suspension relocate

Got a 2007 Phazer last spring and took it for a nice long spring ride. A fun sled but it trenched pretty bad. Didn't seem to float as well as the D8s and XPs that I was riding with. You could always tell where I had been by the depth of the track that the Phazer left.
Well, I cut down a 151"x16" track to a 14" width and started the project.
I slid the rear suspension back 3.5", and to do so, I had to fabricate a rear hanger plate. So far, it seems to have worked fairly well. I have not ridden it much but I will keep an eye on it to report any malfunctions or additional changes. I installed an extra thick washer on the rear mounting bolt to shim out to the suspension hanger. Since the tunnel has a bit of a curve in that area I had to use some thin washers between the new rear plate and the tunnel. The front bolt in the plate is where the original bolt was for the rear hanger. The new plate is 1/8" steel but some thicker alluminum would work nicely and maybe better. Hopefully the pictures will tell the story. If not, let me know. I am hoping that the improved approach angle and different track will let this little dream float a lot better. Enjoy the pics!
<a href="http://s398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/?action=view&current=PhazerTrackRelocation015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/PhazerTrackRelocation015.jpg" border="0" alt="New front hole location"></a>
<a href="http://s398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/?action=view&current=PhazerTrackRelocation013.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/PhazerTrackRelocation013.jpg" border="0" alt="Rear hanger bracket"></a>
<a href="http://s398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/?action=view&current=PhazerTrackRelocation014.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/PhazerTrackRelocation014.jpg" border="0" alt="inside view"></a>
<a href="http://s398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/?action=view&current=PhazerTrackRelocation012.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/PhazerTrackRelocation012.jpg" border="0" alt="outside view"></a>
<a href="http://s398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/?action=view&current=PhazerTrackRelocation024.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/PhazerTrackRelocation024.jpg" border="0" alt="Rear bracket"></a>
<a href="http://s398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/?action=view&current=PhazerTrackRelocation017.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/PhazerTrackRelocation017.jpg" border="0" alt="Relocation"></a>
<a href="http://s398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/?action=view&current=Phazertrackrelocatecomplete004.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/TreewellDweller/Phazer%20track%20relocate/Phazertrackrelocatecomplete004.jpg" border="0" alt="Project complete"></a>
 
I wonder why yamaha chose steel for the rear bumper assembly? Why not use lightweight aluminum like eveyone else has for 30 years. Hmm. Maybe then they wouldn't rust also? Gee. :rolleyes:
 
Does any one know the CTC length on the center and rear shocks on a phazer skid. I have a set of shocks out of my M series skid, zero pro and the float I want to adapt them in to the phazer skid. I think it would make a cool custom skid.
 
Phazer idling issue

I picked up a phazer for my wife this last spring but haven't had much time to ride it yet. One thing I've noticed though is when you start it up and let it idle, the idle speed seems to vary quite a bit and then once in a while it would die- especially if you gave it a little throttle... when it tried to idle down it would typically die. Thought maybe it just needed to get good and warmed up and clear things out a bit but it seemed to have the same issue during a short 10 mile ride a couple weeks ago. It seems to want to die when you stop to let it idle.

Any thoughts?
 
I picked up a phazer for my wife this last spring but haven't had much time to ride it yet. One thing I've noticed though is when you start it up and let it idle, the idle speed seems to vary quite a bit and then once in a while it would die- especially if you gave it a little throttle... when it tried to idle down it would typically die. Thought maybe it just needed to get good and warmed up and clear things out a bit but it seemed to have the same issue during a short 10 mile ride a couple weeks ago. It seems to want to die when you stop to let it idle.

Any thoughts?

Adjust the throttle linkage slack and idle speed to OEM specs...
 
clogged air intake?

Yesterday I was busting through some big wind drifts, one after another with snow going over your head. Then the engine started to cut out, never died, but lose a little power. Feather the throttle and you could get it up to top rpms. At first I thought maybe some water in the fuel line but after we cleared the snow drifts and headed down the road the machine ran normal, no problems if you hit punch the throttle. I was wondering could snow packed in the air filter create some engine problems?
 
2007 mtx phazer troubles

hi there, im new here,

had buy this phazer last season right at the end of the season, so not much time to apreciate it,

last summer i try to start it up just to let the engine turn a bit and then notice when i turn the key there where no fire, even the pump was not activing, so bring it to the dealer before warenty end, they found out that it was fuel pump fuses thats was blown, so now thats fixxx.


now the warenty over i have new trouble, first of is the code 84, wich by what i found on some forum is it tps, trotle position sensor, now my question is how can i adjust it, is it a step my step guide some where i can find on net?


new trouble is, reverse,
last winter the previous owner tell me to do like i have read here before, just wigle the sled back anf forth and it will work,
the thing is last winter the reverse light was blinking on and off (no steady) so i wigle then it was sliping on and i was good to go, now the light wont even came on, wigle as much you wont, you only look a crazy lil boy lol, so i was wandering if that ever happen to you and it that might be relate with my tps trouble since now engine rev up and down between 1610-1760 (back and forth)

thanks for all good help in advance and nice forum on here :)
 
Try letting the sled run for a while before putting it in reverse if you haven't been doing so already. I have seen that if they have just been started and are idling high they don't like to engage or disengage. if not the actuator for reverse is under your fuel tank. Have fun getting to it if that's what you gotta do :rolleyes:
 
Try letting the sled run for a while before putting it in reverse if you haven't been doing so already. I have seen that if they have just been started and are idling high they don't like to engage or disengage. if not the actuator for reverse is under your fuel tank. Have fun getting to it if that's what you gotta do :rolleyes:


thanks for quick answer,

by what i have see it is thats my acelerator handle was twist,

yesterday i had take a lil ride around the house and adjust it to my hand, so i twist it donw, then a code appear on speedometer, code 84, at that time i did not know it was relate, but investigating around yesterday i learn that it mean accelerator cable too tight, so i untwisted back the handle and now engine rev good, when code was on, engine was turning slowly while idle, even stall a couple time,, then i read reverse only get in between x and y rpm, so now code 84 gone by itself after repositioning the handel, the engine seem more smooth and reverse kick in like its suppose to be so all good so far, tomorow we are going on a ride, so i will be able to tell you if anything goes wrong after ( if i can make it back home at least lol)

thanks again for the help and hope the info i just put in can help some one else in future.

a+
 
phazer tps issue

So I just put a supercharger on my wifes sled and rode it last weekend and it ran great but then got some water in the map sensor plugs and then it had some problems by causeing it to go into fail safe but with the efi box I was able to lean it out and rode the rest of the day. So when i started to inspect the connectors I found a Phazer manual on line and found my codes and also found some info on how to test the system like the throttle position map sensors fuel pump radiator fan and a bunch of other stuff.
Anyways I found the tps counts and it says it should go to 100 at full throttle but mine only goes to 47 so I followed the manual and made some checks to the TPS because when it was stock it seemed really low on power and now i think it was related to the TPS not going to 100% so I also adjusted it how the manual says and still only 47 and now when I start it I have code 84 so now I am woundering if the TPS is bad or not. i will try to adjust the throttle cable but never messed with it so not sure if that is it but I will try any one else have any ideas.
 
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Possible bad starter?

Started having starter problems this winter - when the machine has been sitting for a couple of days I will go and fire it up just to see if the battery has been holding it's charge, I will turn the key on and wait for the fuel pump to prime and then turn the key to start, but nothing happens, not even a clicking from the starter. So I cycle this process 3-4 times, on the last attempt the engine starts. This happens sometimes, not always. And once the engine is running, I can turn it off and back on no problem. But let sit for a few minutes then the problem comes back. Any thoughts? Starter? Ignition Key? Thanks.
 
Started having starter problems this winter - when the machine has been sitting for a couple of days I will go and fire it up just to see if the battery has been holding it's charge, I will turn the key on and wait for the fuel pump to prime and then turn the key to start, but nothing happens, not even a clicking from the starter. So I cycle this process 3-4 times, on the last attempt the engine starts. This happens sometimes, not always. And once the engine is running, I can turn it off and back on no problem. But let sit for a few minutes then the problem comes back. Any thoughts? Starter? Ignition Key? Thanks.


Starter solenoid, I had to replace mine on my Nytro this year also. My wifes phazer started doing this last time we were out, luckily people we were with had jumper wires to run the fuel pump, while we used a screwdriver to jump the contacts to start the engine. They are only 26$ from south seattle sports complex. It seems like not a bad idea to replace every couple of seasons as I had to replace both my Nytro and phazer after 3 seasons.
 
a step closer

Found the selenoid, thanks for pointing out the location. When I turn the key I get a one faint "click."

So to test it, as I understand, take a screw driver and put it in contact with both positive and negative post on the selenoid and then turn the key over. If this starts the engine then the problem is the selenoid.
 
Found the selenoid, thanks for pointing out the location. When I turn the key I get a one faint "click."

So to test it, as I understand, take a screw driver and put it in contact with both positive and negative post on the selenoid and then turn the key over. If this starts the engine then the problem is the selenoid.

Exactly.

Solenoid / relay issues seem to be a pretty popular problem of late... I've got a new one ordered, and for $40 or so it's not a bad idea to have a spare on hand.
 
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