The Brake stop ride, What is the real issue

[TRS]

Did you have to remove the caliper from the sled and drain it to flip the seal?

Yes sir.
The caliper unbolts pretty easy. The rear caliper bolt is accessible from the pto side once you remove your secondary. A long extension and a 13mm works great.
To change pads remove the QD sprockets then remove the secondary, remove the jackshaft bearing flange torx bolts and pull the jackshaft. The brake rotor will fall out. Replace the pads and reverse the operation.

 

[Matte Murder]

Holy buckets that’s a lot of work to change brake pads.

 

[diamonddave]

Ooohhh Chadly you’re soooo f’n cool! Another belittling post from the forum know it all! You got thumbs ups and laughs from 8 whole people on here for keeping it real and being such a cool wise ass! And that’s just this post! Mission accomplished! ?? You need to get over yourself you pretentious douche. If you took the time to actually read what I posted, instead of glossing over it with automatic assumptions, and then blathering on like a f*#kstick, you’d see I didn’t make fun of anyone. I stated that, as far as Polaris is concerned, the brake works perfectly. If the track is moving and you squeeze the brake, it safely stops. That’s all it’s designed to do. Period. And the ONLY reason for the recall was because of riders over working the brake system. Not a faulty part (too long of plunger, grinding the brake lever, new mc, etc) like most people assumed. And that created another service bulletin. And in turn, another reason for sleds to be even further pushed back on delivery. Not because there is a fault with the brake system as they see it. And yea, that’s worth a little bitching. How only a FEW people, that ride these sleds a certain way, is the cause for the new computer control and extended delivery delays. “Finger on the brake” style backcountry riding is directly related. Foolish to think otherwise. Everybody can come up with whatever other reason you think the problem actually is, and you might be right, but Polaris thinks it’s an over use problem. And the fix is to control the sled.

Thanks for the reminder Chadly that there will always be vultures looming on here and you rule them all. Being a part of your fictitious 3% is of no interest to me.

Dude, way too much emotion. It’s only cheap ass snowmobiles and Chilly.

 

[Solarguy]

Looks like Chilly won this round?

 

[Chadly]

You need to get over yourself you pretentious douche.

I've been called worse by better people ??‍

 

[James T Kirk]

Seems like the brake being up high on the jack shaft has something to do with the excessive heat. When a brake rotor is mounted to a driveshaft that is down low and covered in snow it’s gonna stay a lot cooler. Especially in deep conditions when you are on and off the throttle and brake. Between the new master cylinder and no chaincase to act as a heat sink I’d say those are the reasons they are seeing some issues now. Seems like a silly reason for a stop ride but whatever.

I’m gonna put some frog skin vents near the brake on my ‘23 just in case, can’t hurt.

 

[RBalazs]

Ooohhh Chadly you’re soooo f’n cool! Another belittling post from the forum know it all! You got thumbs ups and laughs from 8 whole people on here for keeping it real and being such a cool wise ass! And that’s just this post! Mission accomplished! ?? You need to get over yourself you pretentious douche. If you took the time to actually read what I posted, instead of glossing over it with automatic assumptions, and then blathering on like a f*#kstick, you’d see I didn’t make fun of anyone. I stated that, as far as Polaris is concerned, the brake works perfectly. If the track is moving and you squeeze the brake, it safely stops. That’s all it’s designed to do. Period. And the ONLY reason for the recall was because of riders over working the brake system. Not a faulty part (too long of plunger, grinding the brake lever, new mc, etc) like most people assumed. And that created another service bulletin. And in turn, another reason for sleds to be even further pushed back on delivery. Not because there is a fault with the brake system as they see it. And yea, that’s worth a little bitching. How only a FEW people, that ride these sleds a certain way, is the cause for the new computer control and extended delivery delays. “Finger on the brake” style backcountry riding is directly related. Foolish to think otherwise. Everybody can come up with whatever other reason you think the problem actually is, and you might be right, but Polaris thinks it’s an over use problem. And the fix is to control the sled.

Thanks for the reminder Chadly that there will always be vultures looming on here and you rule them all. Being a part of your fictitious 3% is of no interest to me.

Big difference in “finger on the brake” and “finger covering the brake”. No, not stating that term because it’s what they said in the video, it’s what I’ve and many others including Chilly has done on every bicycle, motorcycle, scooter, snowmobile, go cart and frankly everything I’ve rode with a finger brake my entire life. Never smoked a brake rotor, nor applied brake pressure with my finger covering the brake.

None of this is caused by us “backcountry style riders”, give me a break. If that was the case, Chad and I would have personally seen many sleds burn to the ground.

I don’t need Polaris making my sled tell me to let off the brake and maybe you don’t either. Will I get the reflash, sure will and will see how goes. If the screen starts flashing the second the brake switch is engaged, thats going to be a bummer. That’s not remotely when my brakes begin to engage. Maybe its my aftermarket lever, who knows. Maybe Polaris should’ve tried that…

As far as Chads post, everyone needs to just relax. Can’t you tell he says what he does to get certain folks panties in a wad?. It’s not going to stop and frankly it’s what making these threads so much fun to read?

 

[TRS]

Holy buckets that’s a lot of work to change brake pads.

Easiest way to get it done.

 

[Fosgate]

Few guys here talking abut concern of the brake lever freezing up. Would an adjustable or even a TKI or Skinz Heater brake lever take care of that? or some other non- heated adjustable brake lever? Or hell, even hosing down the pivot point with some white lithium grease?

 

[JH@CM]

Few guys here talking abut concern of the brake lever freezing up. Would an adjustable or even a TKI or Skinz Heater brake lever take care of that? or some other non- heated adjustable brake lever? Or hell, even hosing down the pivot point with some white lithium grease?

If anything, in my experience the heated lever makes this issue worse than stock.

I run the skinz (earliest release) lever, and had to do some modding to remove material to provide enough free play, as has been previously discussed in other threads. Yes, on cold days without much pow it's a nice feature to keep your brake finger warm.

My interest in running a heated lever on the matryx (it's been almost 1k mi now) has been satiated. It's just not for me. If there's any snow hitting your bars, it makes more icing on the glove, and in the small brake indicator button area that doesn't have much area to easily clear snow from. Back to the stock lever on my new sled that's coming soon.

 

[zaasman]

Few guys here talking abut concern of the brake lever freezing up. Would an adjustable or even a TKI or Skinz Heater brake lever take care of that? or some other non- heated adjustable brake lever? Or hell, even hosing down the pivot point with some white lithium grease?

My freezing issues last year were with the skinz heated leaver. The freezing was in the light switch itself, there wasn’t any exposed blocks of ice to chip off. Brake lever itself never froze and the brake continued to work fine, just the light was frozen on (ie. signalling brake applied to ecu).

 

[zaasman]

If anything, in my experience the heated lever makes this issue worse than stock.

I run the skinz (earliest release) lever, and had to do some modding to remove material to provide enough free play, as has been previously discussed in other threads. Yes, on cold days without much pow it's a nice feature to keep your brake finger warm.

My interest in running a heated lever on the matryx (it's been almost 1k mi now) has been satiated. It's just not for me. If there's any snow hitting your bars, it makes more icing on the glove, and in the small brake indicator button area that doesn't have much area to easily clear snow from. Back to the stock lever on my new sled that's coming soon.

I agree the heated lever makes it worse. So I wired it into the sleds thumb heater circuit rather than plugging it into accessory the way it comes. This way I can switch it on/off as needed.

I love my earlier release skinz lever and wouldn’t trade it at all. Feels precise like an mtb lever and I can get it positioned just how I like. Stock lever doesn’t work for me.

 

[TRS]

Just to update. Flipping the square o ring in the caliper fixed my brake drag issue. It free wheels very well now.

 

[Lobster Carl]

Just to update. Flipping the square o ring in the caliper fixed my brake drag issue. It free wheels very well now.

Were your brakes draging from the beginning? Or did it develop into an issue later on?
Mine seem to retract just fine. But I'm still waiting to ride here. More rain coming this weekend.

 

[gopher-it!]

My outside brake pad was also dragging.
Using a prybar and the brake lever I cycled the piston about 15 times.
It is now floating free every time I let off the brakes.

 

[TRS]

Were your brakes draging from the beginning? Or did it develop into an issue later on?
Mine seem to retract just fine. But I'm still waiting to ride here. More rain coming this weekend.

It’s been dragging since new.
It’s 51* this morning and we had drizzle yesterday.

 

[Chadly]

It’s been dragging since new.

As in you could hear it drag while spinning it in the shop or that it was actually getting hot while out riding down a trail? Most dirtbikes I have had you could hear a little drag on the brakes when you spin them on the stand.

 

[Lobster Carl]

As in you could hear it drag while spinning it in the shop or that it was actually getting hot while out riding down a trail? Most dirtbikes I have had you could hear a little drag on the brakes when you spin them on the stand.

He posted a video on page 4. It looks like it's draging pretty good.

 

[BeartoothBaron]

Should be easy to tell if the caliper itself isn't releasing properly: just go for a high speed blast on the trail without touching the brake and see if the rotor gets hot. A non-contact thermometer would help, but it should be pretty obvious (careful around it with bare hands: if it's dragging hard, it'll burn you). If you do have a dragging brake, I'd try flipping the caliper seal over like @TRS describes. It's not terribly difficult to remove the caliper; you'll need some compressed air and a block of wood to get the piston out and keep it from hitting the other end of the caliper. I'd also be tempted to polish the piston while it's out - probably not worth trying until you at least flip the seal though. Then you have to bleed the brake, but that's not terrible either. Of course, not everybody's going to want to dig into it, but if you've ever worked on the hydraulic side of the brakes on a car or truck, it's no different.

 

[sno*jet]

Seems like the brake being up high on the jack shaft has something to do with the excessive heat. When a brake rotor is mounted to a driveshaft that is down low and covered in snow it’s gonna stay a lot cooler. Especially in deep conditions when you are on and off the throttle and brake.

they wont wrap their heads around this until polaris does.
you dont need to make the brake guard the neanderthal shape cat did in 2012...
last time i rode a poo seemed like toes hit a wall before you even got that far up anyways.
stick up for the old design by all means tho, whatever keeps those influencers influencin'