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Supertorquer 'Central Roller Mass' Swing Arms

So the "steam roller" arms are in! Having a firmware issue with my computer getting the pics to transfer. I will try different other options to get them uploaded. So back to the install, they were a breeze to put in without too many issues. Now I am putting them in a 07 XRS 151 hoping to resolve the issues. Unable to give a snow test report due to a major lack of snow in the Sierras, but the engagement is right at 4200 and it heads up to 8000 and seems to hold. Now that is without a load and while running on a stand. Now the other point that the guy who makes these pointed out was quicker shift points and from what I can tell on the stand is the it is very quick to respond to throttle changes. Let off the throttle and hammer it down and it has no lag. Cannot wait for snow.

The only issue that I noticed during install was the mount point roller was a bit snug fitting into the new arm and did require some time with some 200 grit sandpaper. After that the arms moved free and without any binding.
 
:D


I know your not talking about "those arms" my point being is that the product and the result & effect has been available and on the market for a long time. Don't get me wrong i use a very similar product and give any type of adjustable roller a 100% rating.

Personal if you look closely at those other brands they offer more tunability. I would like to know what just the supertorquer arm weighs alone ???? My guess by the looks of it is approx 28 grams empty.

In fact the supertorquer design looks very similar to a design that the Talbot Bros. from Idaho have designed several years ago. The Talbots also work close with Randy from supertorquer who have together developed many unique internal parts to assist in TRA performance. Back in 2001 myself and DaveB spent alot of time tinkering with supertorquers and had good results in the deep mountain snow and learning how to tune the setup.


Its all about the weight .:D



Christ OT, I don't know why I even bother. Re-read the openeing post and subesquent posts re: the 'NEW' arms made by Supertorquer. When you do, by all means, join the conversation.
 
CHRIST, can't help control your ruffled feathers. If you can't understand the effect of changing the position of the weight on the TRA arm than 2 bad. The position of the roller is not the performance gain it's the postion of the weight that make the performance gain. The same position of the weight that can be found on similar products that enhance TRA performance

OT
 
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CHRIST, can't help control your ruffled feathers. If you can't understand the effect of changing the position of the weight on the TRA arm than 2 bad. The position of the roller is not the performance gain it's the postion of the weight that make the performance gain. The same position of the weight that can be found on similar products that enhance TRA performance

OT


Its not the position of the weight alone, it's the position of the roller vs. the weight. It's called leverage. less weight to do the same job but more efficient which makes the hole clutch more efficient. Read the article. I phoned my order in and they explained it better than I. I've been looking for something like this since the tra came out. The roller even engages the ramp better than the original. the doo roller has to push the cup off first before engaging the rollers, this kit engages the ramps better and with a better controlled force. With the longer ramps and its force it will shift all the way out more efficiently.
 
Its not the position of the weight alone, it's the position of the roller vs. the weight. It's called leverage. less weight to do the same job but more efficient which makes the hole clutch more efficient. Read the article. I phoned my order in and they explained it better than I. I've been looking for something like this since the tra came out. The roller even engages the ramp better than the original. the doo roller has to push the cup off first before engaging the rollers, this kit engages the ramps better and with a better controlled force. With the longer ramps and its force it will shift all the way out more efficiently.

I don't disagree it leverage, its been proven years ago that when moving the arm' s weight away from the tip you increase the leverage and the ability for the arm to shift on the ramp as well as maintain rpm. Alot of guys myself included run the tip empty using just the coventional roller in the brand i've been using. As far as the engagement & upshift goes i agree the upshift is "slightly smoother & faster" as well athough not as critical as the ability to control the arm as it shifts into higher rpm.

OT
 
You sound lost at the end. the clutch should maintain its rpm as it upshifts. This set up should be way more efficient while it does that.
 
I don't disagree it leverage, its been proven years ago that when moving the arm' s weight away from the tip you increase the leverage and the ability for the arm to shift on the ramp as well as maintain rpm. Alot of guys myself included run the tip empty using just the coventional roller in the brand i've been using. As far as the engagement & upshift goes i agree the upshift is "slightly smoother & faster" as well athough not as critical as the ability to control the arm as it shifts into higher rpm.

OT


OT, you are so full of $h!t. All you do on these forums is try and make yourself look smart.... get over yourself.

"its been proven years ago that when moving the arm' s weight away from the tip you increase the leverage"

Explain to me how pulling on a shorter lever - the effect you get by moving weight away from the tip - increases leverage????

Actually, don't answer that. You made a mistake - it happens... a lot. For those who don't know already, be sure to take everything OT types on here with a grain of salt. He quite often is just talking in circles.
 
Dude all you do is run your lips to make yourself look stupid ? Have you ever run and Supertorquer products or Thundershifter or Team products or are just another "wannbee lately" to hit the forum ? Guys like you talk alot BS without ever using the product....You have little knowledge or clue except what you have read in a magazine.

ot
 
Ok well it appears there is a BS session going on about this topic that I am going to skip out on. By no means am I an expert clutch tuner. So to answer Original Teton's question, no the start setting is at 3 then if you need to go past that then you can add weight to the upper portion of the arm. Which so far in zero snow conditions and running on a stand, it is rock solid. I need snow!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There was another question from SKIDOO XTC about where to get them, I bought them from supertourqer(heel clicker) out of MN.

I will not be able to give a good report or tuning changes or challenges until we get some snow here in the Eastern Sierra's. So if anyone has any further updates to pass on please let me know. My run today occurred at my home on a stand at 5000 feet and 50 degree temps and of course zero load on the sled.
 
another informative clutching thread, slayed in under 2 pages by you 2 gents.... oh well, i still learn a lot from them....

as far as weight placement... the farther out the weight is, it seems the better of it is. light arms with lots of weight in the end seems to work much better. the DOO 1000 came with arms that are WAY heavier than the 800 ones, so run 800 arms and more pin weigh, viola' it workes much better, im gonna make some pictures and some physics info to help explain how this works better for those of us without vast knowledge.
 
Ok well it appears there is a BS session going on about this topic that I am going to skip out on. By no means am I an expert clutch tuner. So to answer Original Teton's question, no the start setting is at 3 then if you need to go past that then you can add weight to the upper portion of the arm. Which so far in zero snow conditions and running on a stand, it is rock solid. I need snow!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There was another question from SKIDOO XTC about where to get them, I bought them from supertourqer(heel clicker) out of MN.

I will not be able to give a good report or tuning changes or challenges until we get some snow here in the Eastern Sierra's. So if anyone has any further updates to pass on please let me know. My run today occurred at my home on a stand at 5000 feet and 50 degree temps and of course zero load on the sled.


did super torquers say to adjust your secondary? he said to the 09 set up is back shifting fast. I' going to try mine with 42 helix first. Snowing right now, this week end maybe.
 
another informative clutching thread, slayed in under 2 pages by you 2 gents.... oh well, i still learn a lot from them....

as far as weight placement... the farther out the weight is, it seems the better of it is. light arms with lots of weight in the end seems to work much better. the DOO 1000 came with arms that are WAY heavier than the 800 ones, so run 800 arms and more pin weigh, viola' it workes much better, im gonna make some pictures and some physics info to help explain how this works better for those of us without vast knowledge.


I thought that the same guy makes both arms I'm talking about and says that these new designs work extremely well.
 
did super torquers say to adjust your secondary? he said to the 09 set up is back shifting fast. I' going to try mine with 42 helix first. Snowing right now, this week end maybe.

No he did not suggest that at all. The feeling was that the secondary set up from the factory was good. Now I did have to re-set my click adjusment on my secondary after install. I think one of my issues right now is that my primary has a new surface that I did on it as well. So it is a bit grabby at this point.
 
OT is right but just not explaining himself to you. If you take the arm from the center of the pivot point and draw a straight line through to the center of the roller the weight is centralized.So you have X amount of force at full shift. If you add weight to the UNDER SIDE of the arm it will increase X buy a larger amount than if you were to add the same weight to the tip, plus it will backshift better.This is what heavy hitter arms accomplish.The further away from the center line of the arm on the under side the greater the force even more, thats why the heel clicker arms would fix the full shiftout force because the arm is still being pushed up.If you look at were the roller is on these new arms you'll see all the weight of the arm IS on the under side forcing it to shiftout more than anything on the market.Those arms are a drag racers dream, I just hope it will backshift well,that is just as important in my opion.Hard to explain in such a small paragraph.
Hope this helps
 
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