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Sorry Polaris riders, Snowest "experts",say you're on the wrong sled

Rasmussen also changes rear suspension so it’s no longer a wheely monster

Anyone ever put a poo skid/track on a Xm or g4? Curious how that would go.
 
Rasmussen changes the steering and the tmotion.

Well let's see here:
Ease of steering - DOO
Peak horsepower - Poo
Extreme sidehill capability - Poo
Predictability on edge - Poo
Floatation in deep - Poo
Weight - Poo
Narrow Chassis - Poo
Ease to work on/access - Poo

Apparently the ease of steering thing is kind of important.
Rasmussen moves the post forward and changes shocks and springs.
Boooorant changes absolutely...........everything.
 
He still use 100% stock geometry and that says a lot. Lightening is a different matter
 
Rasmussen changes the steering and the tmotion.

Well let's see here:
Ease of steering - DOO
Peak horsepower - Poo
Extreme sidehill capability - Poo
Predictability on edge - Poo
Floatation in deep - Poo
Weight - Poo
Narrow Chassis - Poo
Ease to work on/access - Poo

Apparently the ease of steering thing is kind of important.

So the article talked a lot of "ease of steering".

WTF??? Do we really have full grown "men" running around talking about the handlebars being hard to turn on a Polaris? The thought has just never even crossed my mind while being out riding.

"Peak Horsepower - Poo" I still haven't ridden a Polaris 850 to compare it with the Doo 850. Was this really true? Obviously now with the turbo, Doo certainly has the crown on peak HP. But even before the turbo, I thought the consensus was the Doo making more power. No?
 
Can't remember the exact numbers, but didn't the 840 hit over 170 on the dyno, while the 850 was in the upper 160s? Given that it's a subjective, I'd bet it comes more down to gearing: the Poo would need a lot more torque to overcome its gearing disadvantage, but on a longer run that'll disappear.
 
Can't remember the exact numbers, but didn't the 840 hit over 170 on the dyno, while the 850 was in the upper 160s? Given that it's a subjective, I'd bet it comes more down to gearing: the Poo would need a lot more torque to overcome its gearing disadvantage, but on a longer run that'll disappear.

Gearing disadvantage? You do realize that the AXYS comes factory in a belt drive or a chaindrive version? The chaindrive is geared down. As far as seat of the pants HP and torque. The Doo feels much more torquy down low while the Polaris feels to have much more HP up top. You would be surprised how the T850 feels so much closer to the Polaris torque curve than the N/A 850 Doo. This could be a lot to do with clutching too.
 
Maybe I'm missing something, but it says the Polaris 850 had a 163x2.6, which would mean the standard quickdrive setup: 22/43 gearing. The Summit has 21/53 gearing, albeit with a bigger driver. Taking that into account, I'm still coming up with a 18% lower gear for the Doo. The chaincase sleds are also at a gearing disadvantage: same driver diameter as the Doo, but 19/44 gearing comes out to 2.31:1 ratio, compared to 2.52:1. Would love to ride the Doo turbo and a '21 Khaos with QD2 back to back, but I'll be doing well just to get in another ride or two at this point!
 
Maybe I'm missing something, but it says the Polaris 850 had a 163x2.6, which would mean the standard quickdrive setup: 22/43 gearing. The Summit has 21/53 gearing, albeit with a bigger driver. Taking that into account, I'm still coming up with a 18% lower gear for the Doo. The chaincase sleds are also at a gearing disadvantage: same driver diameter as the Doo, but 19/44 gearing comes out to 2.31:1 ratio, compared to 2.52:1. Would love to ride the Doo turbo and a '21 Khaos with QD2 back to back, but I'll be doing well just to get in another ride or two at this point!

The resulting gearing of the chain case AXYS is 2.52:1 compared to the standard ProRide 8 tooth 2.86 pitch. The Doo is geared too low in my opinion at an equivalent of 2.74:1 compared to an 8 tooth 2.86 pitch design. Now why so low? This was Doo's answer to belt burning. Does it hurt performance? It makes it really hard hitting on the bottom but the G4 with factory clutching feels like it hits a speed wall at half the expected speed. I do however think there is much more performance capable with good clutching.

I tried lower gearing on my AXYS (58/24 TKI gears) and lost some performance over taller gearing. I ended up with a 25 tooth top gear after also trying a 26.
 
Mostly agree, except to note that Polaris chaincase sleds have 3"x7t drivers, while the Doos have 3.5"x6t, so no real need to make any corrections comparing those two (2.31:1 vs 2.52:1), and same story with QD2. You're probably right that Doo changed gearing more for belt life than performance, but I haven't heard of anyone gearing back up, while a few people here have taken their Polaris chaincase sleds even lower, with positive reports. It probably depends a lot on the general conditions the rider sees, and elevation too; gearing is definitely not a one-size-fits-all proposition. QD2 is a step in the right direction and probably the ideal ratio for many riders, but still too high for others.
 
Doo also keeps their gearing down to lower warranty costs on the flexi-track. Speed destroys single ply 3" tracks, even without the flex. Easier to clutch, and belt, primary, track issues are less. Rental outfits love it. Should add, gotta believe some 850t's are gonna be geared up out west, track life will be revealed, good or bad.
 
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Doo also keeps their gearing down to lower warranty costs on the flexi-track. Speed destroys single ply 3" tracks, even without the flex. Easier to clutch, and belt, primary, track issues are less. Rental outfits love it. Should add, gotta believe some 850t's are gonna be geared up out west, track life will be revealed, good or bad.


Good point on the track although when you say "easier to clutch" I am not sure how? What I find is if a sled is geared too low it is less likely to shift out as the secondary is load sensing and with such low gearing these sleds need perfect clutching because there is often not enough load to pull that secondary open all the way. As you can imagine trail riding and there is much less load compared to climbing so on the trail the sled will resist shift out (when you really want it) and when climbing it will shift sooner (but not same shift point as trail riding). Of course they will shift just not when ideal rpm.
 
Good point on the track although when you say "easier to clutch" I am not sure how? What I find is if a sled is geared too low it is less likely to shift out as the secondary is load sensing and with such low gearing these sleds need perfect clutching because there is often not enough load to pull that secondary open all the way. As you can imagine trail riding and there is much less load compared to climbing so on the trail the sled will resist shift out (when you really want it) and when climbing it will shift sooner (but not same shift point as trail riding). Of course they will shift just not when ideal rpm.
I think ur backwards.
Shifting up always = higher track speed.
Trails are low load and shifts up fast and all the way into overdrive. Unless u have massive power or geared insanely low, u will never shift into overdrive in a climb.

Sent it
 
I think ur backwards.
Shifting up always = higher track speed.
Trails are low load and shifts up fast and all the way into overdrive. Unless u have massive power or geared insanely low, u will never shift into overdrive in a climb.

Sent it


That is not what I am saying. My point is that with low gearing and improper clutching the engine can be rev too high prior to shift out on the trail when it may be fine on a climb or opposite. (secondary more in control) Or it can be clutched to shift out fine on the trail but drop engine rpm too much on the climb. (Primary more in control)
 
You guys must not have worked on a Doo ever. You have to have multiple special tools to disassemble it .

Wait till you do a track change. OMG what a cluster. The rotor is pressed onto the driver and the caliper mount has to be floating while you push/pull the rotor.

Polaris 1/2 deal for track change . 5 minutes secondary tune. Need a 9/16, 1/2" and a T-27 plus a Snap Ring plier. Track needs 15mm and 10mm .. might have forgot another wrench.

I did laugh at the Feels Lighter .. so does there girlfriends I guess.
 
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