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Christopher said money was no object... 
SnoWest Project Trailer 2015: Building a "MORE" perfect trailer.
- Thread starter christopher
- Start date
I used the link you provided on the manufacturer's website.
It said NONE FOUND.
interior lights
Looks like the best option for interior lighting would be LED. I am looking at a 10 diode recessed light. But was wondering if a strip of LED lights would work better. What is everyone's .02? Any pics?
Looks like the best option for interior lighting would be LED. I am looking at a 10 diode recessed light. But was wondering if a strip of LED lights would work better. What is everyone's .02? Any pics?
This is what Trails West is using now and I put these in mine, they put out great light!
http://www.easternmarine.com/opti-brite-led-interior-light-ill08cob
That would be sweet!
M
Don't know if it has been said or not, but IF you plan on using the trailer in the summer for camping I would add a LP gas detector just to be safe.
There were some questions about air circulation last year inside of enclosed trailers....
This would work well... especially if done on a new trailer... and it would be SUPER efficient and move some serious air in the trailer... Low profile too... Have Mirage make it out of Aluminum.
This would work well... especially if done on a new trailer... and it would be SUPER efficient and move some serious air in the trailer... Low profile too... Have Mirage make it out of Aluminum.
What about a low profile SPAL brand automotive radiator fan mounted in a fabbed low profile box on the floor... heck, you can even make it a variable speed... They are affordable, waterproof and ULTRA durable.
Make a box from plywood.. say 3" tall, 13" x 13" and put in a 12" fan, no bottom ... with some feet on it... put a quick connect plug on it and a long cord and you can put it anywhere in the trailer.
OR...
Permanently mount one in a simple, similar box mounted to the ceiling... painted to match the interior of your trailer with holes on all 4 sides... run on a low speed and you will easily circulate air around your trailer.... and not be intrusive.
Speed controller http://www.ebay.com/itm/221021510531
If you wanted to get really fancy, fab it out of aluminum and have it pow coated.
http://www.amazon.com/Spal-30101516-Straight-Blade-Profile/dp/B003PB46JM
.
M
Those fans are nice, but what I found out is that they draw a lot of power to run them.
This fan would also work very well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fan-Tastic-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3393834646&vxp=mtr
Better air movement would be a HUGE advantage when running the heater in the middle of winter. Because of the length of the trailer the rear end never felt as warm as the front end.
6. E-Track Mounting
The E-Track did NOT work out as I had expected.
#1.
Was VERY hard to find SHORT e-track attachment straps.
Everything out there is set up for commercial use.
Finding 12-24 inch straps was a challenge.
State Trailer sales. They have a lot of very short straps and clips with rings.
http://www.statetrailer.com/products.php?item=E-TRACK+RING+2"+6000#&item_no=16087950&detail=true
Still laying it out with Mirage.
The first thing you will likely see is a drawing of the new trailer.
T
5. Ice Melter
In the first trailer Mirage installed a "prototype" ice melter between the end of the trailer and the begining of the rear fold down ramp. The idea was that it would catch the snow coming off of the sled preventing buildup that turns to compressed ICE everytime the rear door is closed. In concept its a great idea. In practice it just couldn't develop enough heat running on DC power to get the job done.
However, if this was converted over to AC, then I think we might have a real WINNER here..
Message sent to Mirage.
The rear ice melter did absolutely nothing as far as we could tell.
It was a great idea, but it just filled up with ice and stayed full for the entire trip each time.
Needs to be AC powered.
So is it just some 12 vdc heat trace cable at the bottom of the door or did they do the whole perimeter of the door?
I did not tear into it, so I am uncertain.
Whats important is simply to know that 12vdc can't handle the job.
tongue length
Christopher, how mich did you extend the tongue on the last trailer. What was the length from the nose?
Was it long enough to have the option of pulling with a sled deck?
Guys....what's your .02 on this?
Thanks
Christopher, how mich did you extend the tongue on the last trailer. What was the length from the nose?
Was it long enough to have the option of pulling with a sled deck?
Guys....what's your .02 on this?
Thanks
This is my experience only...
With my SilverLake sled deck in my long bed F350, I could pull our 1996 Haulmark v-nosed enclosed trailer.
NOT the shortbed on my F250.. That brings the trailer 18" closer to the deck...and it was about 4" or 6" too close. NO CAN DO!!!
I'll put a tape on the tongue so people have a reference point.
Soooo, In short... long beds yes...probably ALWAYS. Unless you have a 174" or something.
Short beds...most likely NEVER. Unless your deck doesn't hang out past the bumper and you have short track sleds.
Only had the trailer tongue extended 6 inches.
Supposed to get the technical drawings on Monday.
Hopefully we will kick this project into gear for real next week!!!
Hopefully we will kick this project into gear for real next week!!!
N
The snow is almost here!
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