slp single set up question

[blackcloud2k]

Im going to be running mine at 9-12k feet with tsled intake and slp pipe kit with mbrp can. Im just going to watch my egts and wash but all the research I have done points to at those elevations I can get away with no box. But if my numbers and wash dont match up then a box will go on it asap. $400 is cheaper than a siezed motor.

 

[ouellette]

This thread has been really helpful, but I'm still confused as heck on what to do. I already got the pipe and bdx intake ordered (stupid on my part but really didnt think I'd need it since I ride around 6000ft). But I just can't seem to justify the money for a box if I don't need it. Plus when it comes to tuning sleds I'm green as green comes. I usually just put a few easy mods on without any tuning and off I go. Anyways my questions are....

Everyone keeps saying watch the EGT's, what exactly is it and what do I need to get to monitor it? What should the 09 M8 run at as well?

Without pulling the top end off is there any quick way to figure out how lean the motor is running?

How effective are the fuel regulator's? Should I just fork over the other 200 dollars and get a box?

If I do end up getting a box, what one should I get? Would like one that is easy to use and one that I don't have to screw around with 90% of the day.
Thanks guys.

 

[TheBreeze]

setup

Either buy a fuel controller, or sell the BDX box. This has been gone over many many times. If you want the SLP pipe and an intake and no fuel box, get the SLP intake. No, it wont save you 8 lbs, but your motor will still run.

 

[blackcloud2k]

EGT's are exhaust gas temp. You will need a guage to monitor these temps. Every sled is different but alum melts up around 1150-12 I believe. As for a way to check how lean the sled is, make a few good hard runs with your sled and then stop and pull the spark plugs and check to see what the color of them are. YOu dont want white, you dont want black, you want a nice even med godl brown. As for the best EFI box I would look into the powercommander. It is pretty much a set it and forget it box. Very little tuning will be needed on the box as compared to the bd box or others.

 

[CuzzinOlaf]

maybe i should just pay the 495 to rk tek and get his 15+ hp power upgrade. want reliable, safe, and EASY power gain. dont want to be dickin with a fuel box all day every

Talk to me about this. Is it proven?

 

[Stack]

Talk to me about this. Is it proven?

Here is the writeup from Kelsey:

http://www.2strokeheads.com/arcticcat_M8_Drop_In_20HP_Performance_Kit.htm

I would send Kelsey an email, he is really easy to get a hold of and will gover this mod in detail with you based on where you ride. Kelsey@2strokeheads.com


FYI: I got your snowblower completed, we just have to figure out when we can drop it off.

 

[CuzzinOlaf]

Here is the writeup from Kelsey:

http://www.2strokeheads.com/arcticcat_M8_Drop_In_20HP_Performance_Kit.htm

I would send Kelsey an email, he is really easy to get a hold of and will gover this mod in detail with you based on where you ride. Kelsey@2strokeheads.com


FYI: I got your snowblower completed, we just have to figure out when we can drop it off.

Email sent LOL. Thanks, John.

I was just thinking about the snow blower. Any thoughts on when and how? I'm supposed to be down that way on the 8th but it isn't set in stone.

 

[YooperScott]

as far as why it works at higher elevations is simple fuel curve physics. you need less fuel at higher altitudes. so if the m8's are fatter on the parameters accross the board, the higher you go with the sled, the less fuel you need, the more cushion you have. as you drop lower to the 0-3000 elevations you are making more power, and even though the parameter might be fatter, you still might not have enough cushion to run safely without a controler from what slp states.

i still dont have enough info to talk myself into running this without a box. but as yooper has said, the cost for what you get is slowing the purchase. i am really leaning (no pun intended) toward just running it stock, +14 hp and -8 pounds or not. 550 for the pipe, then the air intake, then the fuel box or regulator your getting close to the 1000 mark, and i still wont know if it makes power or is safe at 0-3000.

maybe i should just pay the 495 to rk tek and get his 15+ hp power upgrade. want reliable, safe, and EASY power gain. dont want to be dickin with a fuel box all day every day to get the thing to run.

please for everyones sake, lets keep this about the m8's only. please start another thread for the 1000 then, we all know what each other is talking about. ski

Couple points, first I don't really buy the explaination of simple fuel curve physics. Perhaps I am just arguing wording with you though and we're thinking the same thing...... I'm assuming the computer is compensating for elevation so it's same same. If the computer is properly compensating for elevation then the A/F ratio is constant and the less dense air is simply getting less fuel but on the same proportion. I guess you could argue that at 10,000' if you're down on 30% power then running closer to the edge isn't as big of a deal. In airplanes (4 stroke and not as picky but still gas engines) that logic is used in some regard as you really don't lean out the motor for better fuel burn until under 75% power which happens by around 8000' if running WOT. Anyways I guess I will buy that.

Next the RK heads. If you can get away with 15 hp there without a box then they are pretty much saying you can get away with 15 hp without a box which then further points to believing SLP that the pipe is safe down low. Whether you are gaining 15 hp from a pipe or 15 hp from a head the same motor still needs the same amount of fuel for the same air fuel ratio. I'm sure you could argue that the head may require some ever so slightly different amount of fuel than the pipe even if the hp gain is the same, but that would be VERY slight.

In the end I am still planning to just run the pipe with nothing and if needed probably the first change would be increasing the fuel pressure some if I really had to. Then again maybe by next year i'll be wanting to port the thing and just need a box anyways. Will do some WOT blasts across the lake and immediately pull a plug to take a peak. Problem with that is my experience with 2 strokes is WOT isn't so much of a problem as peak torque. In an airplane I used to fly with a rotax 582 2 stroke we had to rejet all the time based on temperature. Obviously you are going to run safe in an airplane or it could turn into a VERY bad day quickly. Anyways I found that if the EGT's were a little high in cruise I could just add some power to lower them. If I was a trail rider I wouldn't really worry because worst thing is you tow it to a road. Where I boondock in the UP just towing to a road may not be such an easy feat sometimes but of course I cannot help myself in thinking I NEED the power and weight loss.

 

[wiley75]

Talk to me about this. Is it proven?

I notice he's got different base gaskets in the kit. I suspect he's raising the port timing via a thicker base gasket configuration then using his cylinder head to get the compression ratio back to where he wants it.

To the original poster: I think if I was you I'd run it without a control box and take some plug readings. Note that the power valves open around 6500 rpm so it'll always appear lean there. It's better to take the plug readings below and above 6500 rpm, but not at 6500 rpm. Hot chocolate color means all is good. This isn't rocket science. Sure, a control box would be nice and is the safe route, but why buy one if you don't need it?

 

[KrUsTyX]

how about clutching, 0-3000' with this setup (y, pipe, can) and maybe intake... do we need to change anything?

 

[Headrush]

Either buy a fuel controller, or sell the BDX box. This has been gone over many many times. If you want the SLP pipe and an intake and no fuel box, get the SLP intake. No, it wont save you 8 lbs, but your motor will still run.

Amen

 

[blackcloud2k]

x2 ^^^