I don't post here much but I'm starting to get frustrated with this thing. Cant get my sled to hit 8200rpm more like 7600. New motor at the beginning of the season. Dropped my pin weights way down played with my clickers but my rpm never seems to change. I pulled the belt off today and the motor will rev to 8200 and hold it no problem. What am I missing. Don't really know how to spot warn tra arms or something eles. I bought this sled this year and the motor basically did the skidoo thing right away.
Skidoo rev 800xrs won't rev out
- Thread starter Tnerb
- Start date
So i pulled the clutch apart again tonight did a bit more digging. When I got the motor rebuilt i asked the guy to pull the clutches apart a clean/check them over. Well I don't know wtf be did cause the cap that holds the primary spring has never been off it was partially seized on and the Allen head bolts even had corrosion on the heads. And then i found this.
Anybody got spec on what length my primary spring should be. Wounded if its done to? Maybe I'll pull the primary apart next. Gotta make myself the spring compressor tool to get this back together lol
Anybody got spec on what length my primary spring should be. Wounded if its done to? Maybe I'll pull the primary apart next. Gotta make myself the spring compressor tool to get this back together lol
Make sure everything in both clutches is in good condition. Bushings, arm pivots, rollers, buttons and orings etc...a TRA maintenance kit is much less $$ than buying parts separately.
How are the secondary rollers?
Be sure the white plastic spring sleeve is around the spring.
That black puck should be replaced but you can run without it.
How are the secondary rollers?
Be sure the white plastic spring sleeve is around the spring.
That black puck should be replaced but you can run without it.
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Everything looks alright in there. I'll take some more pics tomorrow and get your guys opinion on it.
Couple pics of the primary.
Movable sheave bushing?
What are sheaves? Lol I'm a little new to this skidoo clutch stuff. The arms fall over and the rollers all roll super easily.
B
broncoformudv
Member
The sheaves are the two halves that clamp the belt. The one that is fixed and against your motor is the fixed sheave and the outer one is the moveable sheave.
Wiggle your arms and see how much play they have in the pivot bushings. A little is normal and they all need to have the same amount.
Check the edges of your ramps for sharp burs, that will be a sure sign that your ramps are wearing out.
Well the 3missing y pipe bolts probably wasn't helping the whole sittuation. Changed a few thing s and replaced a few thing. I'll know more after this weekend.
Say......what are the numbers on the side of the ramps?...the 3 digit numbers. Them there look like 415's in the start but kind of low compared to 415's.
I would say that by the shape of the start of the ramp, it looks like there is a wavy notch. If that is the case on all 3 ramps then you might have excessive clearance between the...
1) torque buttons on the governor cup vs the...
2) button galley on the sliding sheave.
What happens as the engine is idling, the primary clutch sliding sheave displaces back and forth (on the “fore thrust” and “aft thrust” of the gov cup) with each piston pulse, twice per engine revolution. As the torque buttons wear, the clearance grows between the torque buttons and button galley. As the engine idles this is where slop and play in the clutch start to reveal the start of damage. The lever rollers slide back and forth, kind of walking across the ramp, vibrating - dwelling in an arc curve across the ramp surface - thus the roller creating a notch or wave-looking-dip at that position of where the clutch is at prior to engagement rpms.
If the clutch eventually observes this clearance growing to a certain amount, what will happen is the thrust side of the ramp will start to be galled where it looks and feels like the ramp is starting to grow a knife edge. The roller will actually be pulling the metal of the ramp over every time you are at full throttle in a good pull because of the lack of parallel between the sliding sheave and the governor cup.
The maintenance kit below gives the latest/greatest wear parts. Once installed they take about a ½ tank of petrol of driving to “break in” and start to perform with consistency.
Maintenance kit for drive pulley (buy from local skidoo dealer)
1 spring cover assy, 3 rollers, 1 bushing, 6 slider shoes and o-rings, 1 circlip, 3 cotter pins & lever axles
2008~10, 800PT & Etec
BRP#415129627
@ $139.00
I only recommend the original BRP primary clutch rollers because they are 1) the original diameter and 2) they weigh 9 grams. The fact of the original smallest diameter is a benefit with a great degree towards the promotion of quick backshift and strong bottom end acceleration using the most of the meat of the engine's torque curve.
One must do better than just look at the wear parts, even worn parts "look good", the tuner has to measure the diameters.
Primary clutch
http://www.ibackshift.com/article/-162.asp
...now I been hearing from a few places all around N.Am that the 415129627 maintenance kit is completely sold out and on backorder.
N.P....
800R Carburetor engine (TRA-7) 2007~2013, these parts will work.
417222759 Spring Cover ***'y. (Qty-1)
417223086 Bushing (Qty-1)
293370071 Circlip (Qty-1)
417223271 Slider Shoe (Qty-3)
732401030 O-Ring (Qty-6)
417222947 Roller (Qty-3)
If you dont want to replace the ramps at this point in time, then my suggestion is to buff out the sharp spots on the beginning of the ramps, but no worries on hurting anything as that point on the ramp is only at engagement.
Once you are past engagement and starting to reveal track speed, the governor cup is thrusting on the forward 3 buttons and the lever starts to move down the ramp with more time at full throttle, track speed increasing.
I would say that by the shape of the start of the ramp, it looks like there is a wavy notch. If that is the case on all 3 ramps then you might have excessive clearance between the...
1) torque buttons on the governor cup vs the...
2) button galley on the sliding sheave.
What happens as the engine is idling, the primary clutch sliding sheave displaces back and forth (on the “fore thrust” and “aft thrust” of the gov cup) with each piston pulse, twice per engine revolution. As the torque buttons wear, the clearance grows between the torque buttons and button galley. As the engine idles this is where slop and play in the clutch start to reveal the start of damage. The lever rollers slide back and forth, kind of walking across the ramp, vibrating - dwelling in an arc curve across the ramp surface - thus the roller creating a notch or wave-looking-dip at that position of where the clutch is at prior to engagement rpms.
If the clutch eventually observes this clearance growing to a certain amount, what will happen is the thrust side of the ramp will start to be galled where it looks and feels like the ramp is starting to grow a knife edge. The roller will actually be pulling the metal of the ramp over every time you are at full throttle in a good pull because of the lack of parallel between the sliding sheave and the governor cup.
The maintenance kit below gives the latest/greatest wear parts. Once installed they take about a ½ tank of petrol of driving to “break in” and start to perform with consistency.
Maintenance kit for drive pulley (buy from local skidoo dealer)
1 spring cover assy, 3 rollers, 1 bushing, 6 slider shoes and o-rings, 1 circlip, 3 cotter pins & lever axles
2008~10, 800PT & Etec
BRP#415129627
@ $139.00
I only recommend the original BRP primary clutch rollers because they are 1) the original diameter and 2) they weigh 9 grams. The fact of the original smallest diameter is a benefit with a great degree towards the promotion of quick backshift and strong bottom end acceleration using the most of the meat of the engine's torque curve.
One must do better than just look at the wear parts, even worn parts "look good", the tuner has to measure the diameters.
Primary clutch
http://www.ibackshift.com/article/-162.asp
...now I been hearing from a few places all around N.Am that the 415129627 maintenance kit is completely sold out and on backorder.
N.P....
800R Carburetor engine (TRA-7) 2007~2013, these parts will work.
417222759 Spring Cover ***'y. (Qty-1)
417223086 Bushing (Qty-1)
293370071 Circlip (Qty-1)
417223271 Slider Shoe (Qty-3)
732401030 O-Ring (Qty-6)
417222947 Roller (Qty-3)
If you dont want to replace the ramps at this point in time, then my suggestion is to buff out the sharp spots on the beginning of the ramps, but no worries on hurting anything as that point on the ramp is only at engagement.
Once you are past engagement and starting to reveal track speed, the governor cup is thrusting on the forward 3 buttons and the lever starts to move down the ramp with more time at full throttle, track speed increasing.
Wow that was a lot to take in joe. Thanks a ton for the info. Ur sight/videos have already helped me out a ton. My seasons almost over so at this point I'm not to keen to spend much more money on it. Next season I think it might get one of your clutch kits.
