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Turbo R clutching - hitting the rev limiter

Blk88GT

Westbound and down
Lifetime Membership
Premium Member
Ski-Doo Klim 509 BCA
Now that my sled has been through break in and had a flash from the dealer, I seem to be hitting the rev limiter when riding aggressively in the trees. This usually happens when on/off the throttle repeatedly. I'm able to see ~8200 regularly with 8300 the odd time. Every once in a while I'll get a huge backfire and the sled will have no boost until I shut it down and restart it twice. Muskoka Freerider had the same issue in one of his videos.

I was on clicker 3 and went to 1 (also snapped the tip off the stock POS tool during the process) but the sled has RPM fade on long pulls now (7600-7700) but still sees ~8100-8200 when I initially mash the flipper. I was riding 6500-9500ft.

Can this be solved by changing to a heavier pin and dropping the clicker back to 3? The sled was a lot snappier there.... I'd prefer not to replace the entire clutch setup if I don't have to as I may not keep the sled depending what comes out in a few weeks.

I've never had the need to mess with one of these P drive clutches so go easy on me :)
 
Now that my sled has been through break in and had a flash from the dealer, I seem to be hitting the rev limiter when riding aggressively in the trees. This usually happens when on/off the throttle repeatedly. I'm able to see ~8200 regularly with 8300 the odd time. Every once in a while I'll get a huge backfire and the sled will have no boost until I shut it down and restart it twice. Muskoka Freerider had the same issue in one of his videos.

I was on clicker 3 and went to 1 (also snapped the tip off the stock POS tool during the process) but the sled has RPM fade on long pulls now (7600-7700) but still sees ~8100-8200 when I initially mash the flipper. I was riding 6500-9500ft.

Can this be solved by changing to a heavier pin and dropping the clicker back to 3? The sled was a lot snappier there.... I'd prefer not to replace the entire clutch setup if I don't have to as I may not keep the sled depending what comes out in a few weeks.

I've never had the need to mess with one of these P drive clutches so go easy on me :)

This is something I noticed as well, on lower clickers Your clutching is stock? Load up the pivot weight and try clicker three again. Hows your belt tension?


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Mine also has the backfire when on and off the the flipper. I put a shr kit in Mine before I rode it. Stays at 8100 no mater what. 250 miles and 0 belt dust. I also had 4 different time it wouldn't build boost and go over 7200. I also shut it off a couple times and then it was fine. But I also have a problem with my tank venting
 
Mine also has the backfire when on and off the the flipper. I put a shr kit in Mine before I rode it. Stays at 8100 no mater what. 250 miles and 0 belt dust. I also had 4 different time it wouldn't build boost and go over 7200. I also shut it off a couple times and then it was fine. But I also have a problem with my tank venting
You're still getting the backfire even with the SHR deal installed? Interesting.
 
You're still getting the backfire even with the SHR deal installed? Interesting.
Yep and it's broke in. Mine was not hitting the rev limiter when it's backfiring and popping. It's staying at a steady 8100
 
Yep and it's broke in. Mine was not hitting the rev limiter when it's backfiring and popping. It's staying at a steady 8100

I bet your missing the rpm flash on the gauge, is your skis in the air when it backfires?

To solve this, click down and see if it still does it.


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Are the two different washers on your adjustment bolt?

Just asking


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Now that my sled has been through break in and had a flash from the dealer, I seem to be hitting the rev limiter when riding aggressively in the trees. This usually happens when on/off the throttle repeatedly. I'm able to see ~8200 regularly with 8300 the odd time. Every once in a while I'll get a huge backfire and the sled will have no boost until I shut it down and restart it twice. Muskoka Freerider had the same issue in one of his videos.

I was on clicker 3 and went to 1 (also snapped the tip off the stock POS tool during the process) but the sled has RPM fade on long pulls now (7600-7700) but still sees ~8100-8200 when I initially mash the flipper. I was riding 6500-9500ft.

Can this be solved by changing to a heavier pin and dropping the clicker back to 3? The sled was a lot snappier there.... I'd prefer not to replace the entire clutch setup if I don't have to as I may not keep the sled depending what comes out in a few weeks.

I've never had the need to mess with one of these P drive clutches so go easy on me :)


There is no rev limiter. Engine backfires because it goes lean when overreving. On modern sleds it isnt unsual to see some backfiring time to time as they run very lean because of emission regulations, even if you are on correct operating rpm. Mapping cant be spot-on on every riding situation.

Easiest way to fix this is either change your primary spring or use longer/heavier pivot bolts, targeting for cliker position #3.

Do you know what is your current primary spring and what pivot bolts/weights do you have (26/33/38mm?)
 
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I bet your missing the rpm flash on the gauge, is your skis in the air when it backfires?

To solve this, click down and see if it still does it.


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Yes they are in the air every place I went with this sled. Things fricking awesome
 
Now that my sled has been through break in and had a flash from the dealer, I seem to be hitting the rev limiter when riding aggressively in the trees. This usually happens when on/off the throttle repeatedly. I'm able to see ~8200 regularly with 8300 the odd time. Every once in a while I'll get a huge backfire and the sled will have no boost until I shut it down and restart it twice. Muskoka Freerider had the same issue in one of his videos.

I was on clicker 3 and went to 1 (also snapped the tip off the stock POS tool during the process) but the sled has RPM fade on long pulls now (7600-7700) but still sees ~8100-8200 when I initially mash the flipper. I was riding 6500-9500ft.

Can this be solved by changing to a heavier pin and dropping the clicker back to 3? The sled was a lot snappier there.... I'd prefer not to replace the entire clutch setup if I don't have to as I may not keep the sled depending what comes out in a few weeks.

I've never had the need to mess with one of these P drive clutches so go easy on me :)

Well I tried to look from epc.brp.com and seems to be that you have Black primary spring 150-300 (417127039) and 33mm pivots.

You have two ways to go here.

First and easier way: Change your pivots to 38mm. Keep cliker on #3 and see what happens.

Second way:

You could swap to 150-250 Black/Yellow (417224015). Keep the cliker on #3. You should be now hitting 7900-8100.

If you run under 7900, change to shorter (26mm) pivot bolts and see what happens.

If you want to drop your engagment at the same time, swap to 100-250 red/yellow spring.
 
Yes they are in the air every place I went with this sled. Things fricking awesome

Try adding weight or clicking down, adding pivot weight is the best tho and the easiest. Clicking down would be for troubleshooting only and will show rpm fade on load changes.
 
Well I tried to look from epc.brp.com and seems to be that you have Black primary spring 150-300 (417127039) and 33mm pivots.

You have two ways to go here.

First and easier way: Change your pivots to 38mm. Keep cliker on #3 and see what happens.

Second way:

You could swap to 150-250 Black/Yellow (417224015). Keep the cliker on #3. You should be now hitting 7900-8100.

If you run under 7900, change to shorter (26mm) pivot bolts and see what happens.

If you want to drop your engagment at the same time, swap to 100-250 red/yellow spring.

The North American summits have a 170/350


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38mm pivots are on order. Will report back.
 
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