SilverLake Manufacturing Sled Bed build and install with pictures.
- Thread starter Scott
- Start date
Scott, I have one of Mike's decks as well. Generally, well built but if I were to doo it over again there would be changes. I will take some more pictures and add to the thread for those who are considering a Silver Lake deck.
The idea of putting the ramp in backwards and upside down was asinine. I laid down some 3/8" plywood on top of the channel (that in itself keeps out a lot of road grime) and bolted it in place. Then I cut 3/4" off the end of ramp hooks. Now the ramp slides in like it should. The next thing, I needed to doo was get a propane torch to thaw the lock on the ramp door. I threw that piece of crap in the garbage and bought a SS spring handle (pictures later). Works like a charm. Also, the locks on the tool boxes freeze. Took them out and added a spring cover with grease in the recess. Work fine now.
On the one picture, you will see at one of the arrows, a piece of 1/4" x 3" aluminum flatbar welded to the folding side. We have a lot of chambered parking areas particularly in the early season and late season chasing the snow line. That little baby has saved my arse many times.
I too had to add foam to the ramp door but that was to be expected. Another thing I didn't like was the fact that he used Caliber glides and they doo not stand up in the cold. SuperGlides are the only way to go but they are a little more expensive.
I had no problem with the camera and the back-up sensors. Worked like a charm all the time. Extra lights (picture later) were added for a little punch. I am a little upset with the polished aluminum as the salt really messes it up. I am looking for a coating of some kind.
All in all, I am pleased. Would I buy a second one from him? If I did, there would be a little more custom work as I have learned on the first one. He was great to deal with and all the problems I have had are from not having enough experience with his builds.
The idea of putting the ramp in backwards and upside down was asinine. I laid down some 3/8" plywood on top of the channel (that in itself keeps out a lot of road grime) and bolted it in place. Then I cut 3/4" off the end of ramp hooks. Now the ramp slides in like it should. The next thing, I needed to doo was get a propane torch to thaw the lock on the ramp door. I threw that piece of crap in the garbage and bought a SS spring handle (pictures later). Works like a charm. Also, the locks on the tool boxes freeze. Took them out and added a spring cover with grease in the recess. Work fine now.
On the one picture, you will see at one of the arrows, a piece of 1/4" x 3" aluminum flatbar welded to the folding side. We have a lot of chambered parking areas particularly in the early season and late season chasing the snow line. That little baby has saved my arse many times.
I too had to add foam to the ramp door but that was to be expected. Another thing I didn't like was the fact that he used Caliber glides and they doo not stand up in the cold. SuperGlides are the only way to go but they are a little more expensive.
I had no problem with the camera and the back-up sensors. Worked like a charm all the time. Extra lights (picture later) were added for a little punch. I am a little upset with the polished aluminum as the salt really messes it up. I am looking for a coating of some kind.
All in all, I am pleased. Would I buy a second one from him? If I did, there would be a little more custom work as I have learned on the first one. He was great to deal with and all the problems I have had are from not having enough experience with his builds.
M
mike_s
Well-known member
Thin nylon or Teflon with countersunk fasteners would be my choice...
Sent From God Knows Where...
I went to load up for hunting camp and got a surprise tonight.
Turns out that I CANNOT fit my two ATVs on the DRW flatbed facing forward without laying down the sides, which is the ONE thing I DID NOT WANT to occur.
I'd rather keep the hinged rails UP when going down the highway.
I don't want these things bouncing around and falling off the sides.
The whole truck will be actually wider with them down (due to the bar that the pin goes in)
Turns out that I CANNOT fit my two ATVs on the DRW flatbed facing forward without laying down the sides, which is the ONE thing I DID NOT WANT to occur.
I'd rather keep the hinged rails UP when going down the highway.
I don't want these things bouncing around and falling off the sides.
The whole truck will be actually wider with them down (due to the bar that the pin goes in)
Last edited:
What about making a small catch piece for the sides to keep them up but tilted out? Or does that make you too wide to be legal?
I think if I move the flaps wider so the hinges are sitting to the inside of the side flaps, it will gain just enough. Right now the hinges are on the outside.
So in other words reweld the hinges so they move the side flaps to the outside of the bed instead of inside the edge.
Look at pics above to study that one.
So in other words reweld the hinges so they move the side flaps to the outside of the bed instead of inside the edge.
Look at pics above to study that one.
If he did a good job with his layout of the hinges, you could likely pull the pins and swap sides. Rather than re-welding the hinges and destroying your powder coat. Worth a measurement at least?
So thinking about this more this morning could you just add a stopper to your sides so that they tilt out and give you the clearance for your atv tires? In the pictures it does not look like you need much room to make it work. I'm not up on my Montana laws but I would think you are allowed 102" wide like most other states and if your bed is 96" could you tip out the sides each approx 3" kind of like the picture where you are holding them up and then just pin them in that position to keep them from hanging down and give you a little bit of a safety rail for the ATV's? Just a thought but that would save all the parts you already have built.
Thought about that...but they'd be facing inside out and the tailgate slots would be facing out to the road and unusable.
Last edited:
I don't want the sides flipped down. They won't keep the bikes on the truck if they are flipped down.
If I was going to be happy with that, I would have bought then SRW width bed.
There is no stopper on them right now. They flip all the way down.
If I was going to be happy with that, I would have bought then SRW width bed.
There is no stopper on them right now. They flip all the way down.
Not saying flip them down, I'm saying tilt them out like you have them in this pic:
It looks like there is already a bar holding them in the vertical position from this pic:
Just build a new bar to hold them at that angle. Would the tires clear then or are the hinges still putting them in to far for this to work? Then you could just use the new bar when hauling ATV's and use the normal one the rest of the time.
