Correct.Ok! This one here must be the bov, and the OTHER one is the wastegate.....
So cut 1 coil off of the spring inside this cap?
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Correct.Ok! This one here must be the bov, and the OTHER one is the wastegate.....
So cut 1 coil off of the spring inside this cap?
Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
1500 all boosted.hey sheetmetal how many miles on that sled?
Sheetmetal... Did you ever tackle the BOV spring modification?
What low end problems did you have? I have a 2016, with a low end hesitation. Been fighting for years. It’s not clutching, reeds, or anything like that. It hesitates before the clutching even engages. I contacted Silber last year hoping for an ECU update, he wouldn’t do it. I thought there was a better mapping out the since they kit was installed. It’s almost like it leans out. It’s very prominent right after I sit for a bit then go again. I have to feather the throttle. TPS has been reset as well. Any insight would be great. ThanksJust an FYI.
If you have some odd low rpm issues check your EV guillotines.
View attachment 371190
Side tab broke off and smacked the piston, then tore up the hot side of the turbo on its way out. ?
I had “low rpm” as in fading peak rpm under boost.What low end problems did you have? I have a 2016, with a low end hesitation. Been fighting for years. It’s not clutching, reeds, or anything like that. It hesitates before the clutching even engages. I contacted Silber last year hoping for an ECU update, he wouldn’t do it. I thought there was a better mapping out the since they kit was installed. It’s almost like it leans out. It’s very prominent right after I sit for a bit then go again. I have to feather the throttle. TPS has been reset as well. Any insight would be great. Thanks
I probably sound like an idiot, but has anyone put a post out on how to adjust the TPS?
I had not touched the valves from new.soooo has any one tried cutting the spring .... if so what did ya think . and how often did you clean those valves sheetmetalfa ? i have a little over 2000 (flawless)miles on mine over 1800 boosted have never popped the EVs and am doing the pre-season maintenance now and am wondering if i should bother with it or just keep pretending like polaris is right and those thangs dont need cleaned yours dont look bad at all for 1500.... minus the missing chunk missing
So I cut a coil and a ¼ off. Well a revolution and a quarter as I would consider a coil 1 revolution of the helix and the spring is flat for a while before helix starts...Spray some lube in the part shown in black in the pick. Yours will be white. Same thing though. Pull the part shown in white from the black. It takes a bit of force, but it will go. Cut the spring where i have it marked in blue. Then you will want to heat the spring on the end and get the end as flat as you can so it sits as level as possible in the assembly. Put it all back together. Put a hose on the end and suck with your mouth. If the valve opens with about the force of drinking a thick milkshake with a srraw then you're probably good. If not, you need to cut a bit more off the spring. I used a vac pump and made it open right about 7in hg.
Go test ride. You should only hear a psshhh sound. No flutter/ surge. That's what you want. Ride a bd turbo. This is how they operate which is correct. You will notice silber is the only one that has the surging. I don't know why they don't address this in house. Same reason they don't address the clutching maybe? ?
I did same thing. Ended up cutting a little more, and when I put it back together and sucked on the tube I could hear it pop right open. Here's a pic of my scraps.So I cut a coil and a ¼ off. Well a revolution and a quarter as I would consider a coil 1 revolution of the helix and the spring is flat for a while before helix starts...
Tried your suck on it to open it deal... No luck... Maybe I'll have the girlfriend give it a go??
In all seriousness you mention cutting a coil out in another post and I guess as I explained maybe there's different ways to interpret what 1 coil is.
Thanks