question for those who clutched their D-8's

[ENDO1]

Slp pipes

Thanks AK I will give that a try next weekend. The rivet tool has not come in yet so did not have it this last week, hope to get it today, The forecast is for snow in the Mnt for much of this week so maybe I will have a chance to do some good runs. Will report back with the results.

 

[champyfz450]

Hottest clutching setup Ive ever ran!!!!!!!!!!

To those who would like to know the clutching setup (SLP MTX 68g weights with 1g rivet in the belly/62-42-.46 helix/SLP green-pink primary/stock sec spring) that I ran this past weekend in Revelstoke as per AKSNOWRIDER ABSOLUTELY RIPPED! Pulling 8400 between 7000'-8000' with track speeds that were over 50mph at times! Im running SLP pipe set, SLP intake, firenice headlight intake, and PC3 with dynotech map richened up 5%. I ran my 2010 155 against some extremely stiff competition (I wont say what I ran against as most everyone would probably call me a liar) on some uphill drags and came out on top everytime. Guys run this setup I promise you will not be dissapointed. Thank you very much AKSNOWRIDER I owe you big time, you really made this trip great for me!!! The only problem I have now is trying to keep the front end down when Im climbing lol

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

To those who would like to know the clutching setup (SLP MTX 68g weights with 1g rivet in the belly/62-42-.46 helix/SLP green-pink primary/stock sec spring) that I ran this past weekend in Revelstoke as per AKSNOWRIDER ABSOLUTELY RIPPED! Pulling 8400 between 7000'-8000' with track speeds that were over 50mph at times! Im running SLP pipe set, SLP intake, firenice headlight intake, and PC3 with dynotech map richened up 5%. I ran my 2010 155 against some extremely stiff competition (I wont say what I ran against as most everyone would probably call me a liar) on some uphill drags and came out on top everytime. Guys run this setup I promise you will not be dissapointed. Thank you very much AKSNOWRIDER I owe you big time, you really made this trip great for me!!! The only problem I have now is trying to keep the front end down when Im climbing lol

I am glad you liked it champ...its performed very good for me the last 2 seasons..alot of fun to ride huh?

 

[champyfz450]

I am glad you liked it champ...its performed very good for me the last 2 seasons..alot of fun to ride huh?

Absolutely! I Think I might have made a few guys switch to a polaris lol

 

[ENDO1]

Mtx ?

AK, got a little snow by my house so I changed the rivets, to 2g tip, 1g inner and took it for a ride, I am at about 1500ft temp about 30F, I lost rpm, guess I made to big of a change, I had 3g tip, 2g inner and was wanting to get more rpm, Do you think it sounds right for me to loose rpm? With the 3g-2g I was running 8250 to 8300 down low and from 5000ft and up doing about 7900 to 8000 rpm, any suggestions ?

 

[champyfz450]

AK, got a little snow by my house so I changed the rivets, to 2g tip, 1g inner and took it for a ride, I am at about 1500ft temp about 30F, I lost rpm, guess I made to big of a change, I had 3g tip, 2g inner and was wanting to get more rpm, Do you think it sounds right for me to loose rpm? With the 3g-2g I was running 8250 to 8300 down low and from 5000ft and up doing about 7900 to 8000 rpm, any suggestions ?

3g tip and 1g belly worked really good for me at 1300'

 

[Going Up]

To those who would like to know the clutching setup (SLP MTX 68g weights with 1g rivet in the belly/62-42-.46 helix/SLP green-pink primary/stock sec spring) that I ran this past weekend in Revelstoke as per AKSNOWRIDER ABSOLUTELY RIPPED! Pulling 8400 between 7000'-8000' with track speeds that were over 50mph at times! Im running SLP pipe set, SLP intake, firenice headlight intake, and PC3 with dynotech map richened up 5%. I ran my 2010 155 against some extremely stiff competition (I wont say what I ran against as most everyone would probably call me a liar) on some uphill drags and came out on top everytime. Guys run this setup I promise you will not be dissapointed. Thank you very much AKSNOWRIDER I owe you big time, you really made this trip great for me!!! The only problem I have now is trying to keep the front end down when Im climbing lol

Sounds like a great setup, good to hear the glowing reports.

I have 2 questions:

1. What would you change to this setup for a stock sled (stock pipe and can). Riding 3-7,000 ft.

2. I saw mention somewhere in this thread something about a "team helix/ spring spreadsheet". I was just wondering if this was something that is available somewhere. I would be interested in looking at that.

 

[ENDO1]

helix ?

What will changing the helix from stock to a /62-42-46 do for me? Most my riding is from 2000 to 6500ft

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

3g tip and 1g belly worked really good for me at 1300'

something odd there...it should have gained rpm...how old is the belt and are the sheives clean?....hmm how much did you ride it? long enough at rpm to get the pipe good and hot? if its not up to temp it wont make rpm or power....

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Sounds like a great setup, good to hear the glowing reports.

I have 2 questions:

1. What would you change to this setup for a stock sled (stock pipe and can). Riding 3-7,000 ft.

2. I saw mention somewhere in this thread something about a "team helix/ spring spreadsheet". I was just wondering if this was something that is available somewhere. I would be interested in looking at that.

I rode mine for a couple hundred miles last year with a bone stock motor/pipe..I had to pull a couple grams of rivit weight but it ran good(wont come close to one with a pipe though..)as for the spread sheet...try going to teamindustries..they should have it on there...

 

[MNIQR]

How in the world do you get that (what looks to be huge on SLP's website) tool in the clutch on the hill to add or remove rivets?

 

[briand]

Team Calculator

Here is the team calculator that some of you requested .
Basically I input AKSNOWRIDER setup for the team he was running and came up with a team tied setup. hope this helps you out.

62-42.36 with a 160-240 spring would be very close to a
76-61.36 with a 160-240 spring. tied setup.

You can play around with different angles and springs to see what might match and such.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

How in the world do you get that (what looks to be huge on SLP's website) tool in the clutch on the hill to add or remove rivets?

you just pop the weights out..I have it down to about 15 minutes start to finish..is pretty simple with a little practice...once you get used to the setup normally you dont need to mess with it on the hill unless you find special conditions you need to adjust for....

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

What will changing the helix from stock to a /62-42-46 do for me? Most my riding is from 2000 to 6500ft

endo, I ride mostly from 2-6000 as well although I can go right to sealevel and as high as 8000 ft...this setup should work for you..if your worried about going to far go for a 60/40/.40 helix and then adjust your rpms with the rivits till it pulls hardest....how does your belt/clutches look? and did you find the reason for the low rpm after changing to lighter rivits? I would think it has to do to pipe temps..really hard to get the pipe hot enough unless your in deep snow....which keeps the sled from making both full power and rpms....

 

[ENDO1]

Clutching

endo, I ride mostly from 2-6000 as well although I can go right to sealevel and as high as 8000 ft...this setup should work for you..if your worried about going to far go for a 60/40/.40 helix and then adjust your rpms with the rivits till it pulls hardest....how does your belt/clutches look? and did you find the reason for the low rpm after changing to lighter rivits? I would think it has to do to pipe temps..really hard to get the pipe hot enough unless your in deep snow....which keeps the sled from making both full power and rpms....

Ak, I did not have much snow or time to do much testing, I think you are right, pipe temp and even engine load not their. I got the rivet tool so I can make adjustments on the hill, going to leave it set the same 2g tip 1g belly, blue/pink spring, secondary stock and give it a try on Sat.
Thanks for the help will report back next week.

 

[briand]

I think the chain length will only allow 19/42 won't it? That has worked really good for me.

I want to get some of you thinking a little bit here. Why are we running team secondary springs with such low finish rate? OK, well I'm not.
I was playing around with the team helix/ spring spreadsheet thingy. So I did a lot of variable changes with helix and springs.
Knowing the secondary has the most grip at engagement due to sheave angle and belt contact. It also has the least side pressure at full shift out. This could indicate an increase risk of slippage. Especially with the stock 160/240 spring.
The primary has the least pressure at engagement and the most at full shift out. This is again due to the angle of the sheave faces. We counter this with weights and helix, etc.
So from a belt side pressure stand point these are somewhat opposite each other. When the primary has the most pull, the secondary has the least grip and vise versa.
So, to create a scenario, If you are climbing and the track is getting good traction it is working against the secondary (torque converter) If the primary is still pulling hard it is going to over power what the track is doing and slip the belt. You loose track speed and then get stuck or something.
So, if I take the stock helix of 56/42-.36 it takes a 160/300 spring to equal the same side pressure at full shift as it has at engagement. With an obvious peak when the angles change.

I tried the 160 -300 spring on my edge TheFullMonte (maybe the Dragon could be different) And found the 300 pound finish rate held me back by 2 to 3 MPH track speed. Also noticed a lot more heat build up in the clutches. one or two pass wasn't bad but anymore then that and i had to stop and let it cool down.

I was using a 160/280 spring with the 58/42-.46 last season with really good results. I'm starting to see why.
Play around with the team calculator a little bit and let me know what you are all thinking.

Hi all I don't have the 800 dragon but i have used close to the same setup on an 800 Vertical edge. my setup was as follows.
Team TSS 98
66-44.46 helix ( the 44 angle for me got a little more track speed.)
3 derlin washers ( one on each end of spring and 1 between springcup and sheave.
3 .035 spacers in between the snap ring and roller assembly


Have tried each of these springs

1 140 -240 spring red black (Prefered spring)
1 140 - 260 spring red pink (Good also not as good as red black)
1 160 - 300 red yellow titanium spring. (Need 2 grams more in the tip of 68 MTX weights work good but had trouble with more belt and clutch heat also seemed to hold back track speed by about 2 MPH.

Now i have been out of sledding for 2 years now and just getting back in so due to health reasons so now with the newer springs they have out now i can see some more testing will be needed.
I'm going to try the 160 -240 black white and the 180 -260 Black silver.

According to the team calculator I think The setup below should work well. Has basically the same profile curve as the 62-42.46 helix

this is what i'am going to try
66-44.46 helix with 3 .030 spacers behind the snapring and roller cup.
180-260 Black silver spring.

The theory i have is that the 44 angle will upshift a little faster and maybe get a little more track speed and the heavier rate in the spring will give it better backshift.

Might need to have 2 grams in the mid hole and 1 gram on the outer hole on the MTX weights. from 7000 to 8000 ft.

Oh what fun it is to tinker!!

 

[Norway]

Old button?

Seems like you guys are making things happen with the TEAM, good for ya.

Just out of curiousity, has anyone done the jackshaft change for a splined one to run the old button secondary? Seems aalot of people like it for tunability and consistence of performance. Again, just curious.

http://www.ftxmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=33&osCsid=d2dtjjt88u0nb2ogofpsod2n43

RS

 

[aebsledder]

To those who would like to know the clutching setup (SLP MTX 68g weights with 1g rivet in the belly/62-42-.46 helix/SLP green-pink primary/stock sec spring) that I ran this past weekend in Revelstoke as per AKSNOWRIDER ABSOLUTELY RIPPED! Pulling 8400 between 7000'-8000' with track speeds that were over 50mph at times! Im running SLP pipe set, SLP intake, firenice headlight intake, and PC3 with dynotech map richened up 5%. I ran my 2010 155 against some extremely stiff competition (I wont say what I ran against as most everyone would probably call me a liar) on some uphill drags and came out on top everytime. Guys run this setup I promise you will not be dissapointed. Thank you very much AKSNOWRIDER I owe you big time, you really made this trip great for me!!! The only problem I have now is trying to keep the front end down when Im climbing lol

I am thinking of doing this set-up without the rivets in the weights, as I run mainly between 7 and 10 thousand feet. I am nearing the end of my rope with my dragon and am hoping this will wake it up. I know it ran way better before I got the update done, but I already bought the damn SLP single set-up, so I am kind of commited. Hopefully it will work.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I am thinking of doing this set-up without the rivets in the weights, as I run mainly between 7 and 10 thousand feet. I am nearing the end of my rope with my dragon and am hoping this will wake it up. I know it ran way better before I got the update done, but I already bought the damn SLP single set-up, so I am kind of commited. Hopefully it will work.

sledder, riding up so high(to 10,000 ft) I think you want to pull a little less helix...I would think you would want to try a 60/40/.36 helix with everything else chamfy is running..then use the rivits to dial it in for rpms,/conditions....also ..if your sled isnt running strong..try and fix it first...hard to chase clutching when the motor wont run right(if its just down on rpm then yes clutching is a good start), some guys up really high(10,000 ft plus)have said dropping gearing into the 19/45 or 46 range really helped the sled run .....

 

[aebsledder]

will do

Sled is running OK, no burble, cough, etc. Just doesn't seem to be getting rpms. It idles a little bit low in cold temps, but I think that is pretty normal. Sometimes I wonder if the update affected mine adversely, as I never really had a problem with it before the update. Sounds like the clutching set-up outlined in this thread works well with solid running sleds anyways, so I will give it a shot. My gut is that it is clutching, since I can achieve about 8000 rpms plus or minus 50 on level hardpack snow. I just know that when I can get it to run around 8350 there is a huge difference.