I will second that...clutching sure makes a difference. Rons weights sure made a difference with the combination too
poo is your setup about the same as stews ?hows it working?
question for those who clutched their D-8's
- Thread starter AKSNOWRIDER
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poo is your setup about the same as stews ?hows it working?
I'm only hitting 7900-8100, and 8250 underload, but when it hits 8250 it really pulls hard topend. These weights completely woke up this sled. Ron's tweaking my weights just a bit to run with the silver team and our ele. (3-7K). Very pleased with the progress, makes me want to stay on this dragon much longer
I am using last years Carls helix, 64/42/.46 I believe, with a stock spring in the secondary and was using Belly busters with the stock spring in the primary. Lots of venting and 19/42 gears. Started with Rons weights about a month ago and they really woke it up. Going to try the Team bright green spring this week to see what that does for it. The torque difference is really noticable. i also happen to change tracks at that time as my stock one tore leaving me no choice...went with the 2.5 Challanger extreme. Track certainly does not spin now on the firmer snow like it did before. Seems to be just as good in the powder too. Real happy with the set up.
A
akrevrider
Well-known member
Change to the 2.5 CE track?
800poodragon,
What did you change on the skids; drivers etc to change out the track? Is the track ported or with full clips?
I have a set of Ron's weghts on my sled and have the bright green Team spring on order. Plan to ride it this week to test it out.
akrevrider
800poodragon,
What did you change on the skids; drivers etc to change out the track? Is the track ported or with full clips?
I have a set of Ron's weghts on my sled and have the bright green Team spring on order. Plan to ride it this week to test it out.
akrevrider
Last edited:
Did not do anything but changed the track. I think I am going to change the drivers so I can loosen up the track some more tho. Wished I had them when I had the track out actually...much easier. Track is fully clipped and I did port it. Put 4 one inch holes across each row centered in each area. Can post a pic when I get home if you like.
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Is anyone still workin' on there set-ups? Just a couple ? For those who are gearing down to 19/45, when you state your track speeds are you accounting for the speedos being off from the gearing change? How much $ are Rons weights, and how do I get them? I run between 5000 and 7000 ft and turn between 8150 and 8350, 163 Challenger extreme. Sled is kickin but I think I could get more with some clutch work. What would a 54-40-46 w/ delrin washers do compared to a 56-42-36 stock set-up? I know most are using a steeper initial angle but I am lacking $ and I have the 54. I am running the pink/blue with stock weights and 19/42 w/ slp single and can. Any input is appreciated.
Is anyone still workin' on there set-ups? Just a couple ? For those who are gearing down to 19/45, when you state your track speeds are you accounting for the speedos being off from the gearing change? How much $ are Rons weights, and how do I get them? I run between 5000 and 7000 ft and turn between 8150 and 8350, 163 Challenger extreme. Sled is kickin but I think I could get more with some clutch work. What would a 54-40-46 w/ delrin washers do compared to a 56-42-36 stock set-up? I know most are using a steeper initial angle but I am lacking $ and I have the 54. I am running the pink/blue with stock weights and 19/42 w/ slp single and can. Any input is appreciated.
chum, the reason for more initial angle is 2 fold..it helps stop the trenching on take off and it loads the motor and acelerates harder...with not having funds for helix and such you might try a heel heavy weight to help it up shift harder thru the midrange while still allowing it to reach peak rpms...Ron custom builds weights..just pm him on here(look in members list as Ron)..I feel that polaris left alot on the table as far as the clutching(both in terms of performance and heat/belt wear..the best helix angles I have used so far are a 60/40/.36...with my clutching it just seems to really work in alot of conditions and heat and wear are very good...
Gang...here is a performance example of changes in clutching.
Day one we had a 58/40/36 helix pulling 66 grams of stock 10 style weights in the 860. Max RPM we could net with this setup at 9000-10,000ft was 8100 sled felt fine appeared strong and ran heads up with a skidoo 860. What bothered me was that it also ran heads up with a really strong running Carls 800 so I knew there was a ton more in there.
We came back again but with a set of belly buster 64's and a helix set at 64/44/36 and now we are 10-15 sled lengths faster (THAT IS INCREDIBLE IN SLED TERMS) then before but still only able to pull 8150 max. It was consistant and hugely fast but there was still top end on the table. Even just 10 lengths is so unbelievable but you could keep on going. Sled felt exactly the same but the results were awesome. Simple weight and helix change over the same set of springs....makes you want to look at your setup even when you think you are all right watching R's. Proof as well that the Carl's Cycle theory of a bit more helix compensated with springs is a more effective faster setup in a like vehicle then others that are doing less helix and standard 10 weights. Found the exact same results on our 800 as well so it appears to be across the board when you find the combo.
Day one we had a 58/40/36 helix pulling 66 grams of stock 10 style weights in the 860. Max RPM we could net with this setup at 9000-10,000ft was 8100 sled felt fine appeared strong and ran heads up with a skidoo 860. What bothered me was that it also ran heads up with a really strong running Carls 800 so I knew there was a ton more in there.
We came back again but with a set of belly buster 64's and a helix set at 64/44/36 and now we are 10-15 sled lengths faster (THAT IS INCREDIBLE IN SLED TERMS) then before but still only able to pull 8150 max. It was consistant and hugely fast but there was still top end on the table. Even just 10 lengths is so unbelievable but you could keep on going. Sled felt exactly the same but the results were awesome. Simple weight and helix change over the same set of springs....makes you want to look at your setup even when you think you are all right watching R's. Proof as well that the Carl's Cycle theory of a bit more helix compensated with springs is a more effective faster setup in a like vehicle then others that are doing less helix and standard 10 weights. Found the exact same results on our 800 as well so it appears to be across the board when you find the combo.
Well I just sat down and read the entire thread. Great info!! It seems like everyone who is clutching their sleds and getting the most gains are the ones who have done some mods (pipes, cans, cold air intakes, reeds and etc).
Those weights you guys are talking about intrigue me, wondering if anyone has tried them on a bone stock sled.
Mine is an 09 155 and in deep snow it pulls about 8300 in deep snow pretty consistent (3000-7000 feet). I really love this sled and it seems to be pulling hard but my deep snow track speeds are only about 39-41 mph, I saw some were getting 50+ ?? that seems huge.
So i guess the questoin im throwing out there is this: has anyone tried these set ups on a bone stock sled? if so what happened?
Thanks in advance.
Those weights you guys are talking about intrigue me, wondering if anyone has tried them on a bone stock sled.
Mine is an 09 155 and in deep snow it pulls about 8300 in deep snow pretty consistent (3000-7000 feet). I really love this sled and it seems to be pulling hard but my deep snow track speeds are only about 39-41 mph, I saw some were getting 50+ ?? that seems huge.
So i guess the questoin im throwing out there is this: has anyone tried these set ups on a bone stock sled? if so what happened?
Thanks in advance.
I have seen a slp's performance pakage on a dragon 800 163 , what ever they run it works.
It ran in 3-4' of powder very impressive ,there was two 860 163 xp's , and I
got to say that dragon was beating them,moving the high mark higher and higher untill the xp's couldn't even poach any more .I will go with that set up on mine.Very impressive for a 800...
I would think a dragon 860 would have no problem against a 860 xp.
They were not much better than my single piped dragon.
I also own a 09 154 xp .
Well every sled is different as are conditions where they stand out so it's impossible to make random statements across the board on what beats what or what is superior to what brand wise.
My statements are on variable clutch and ecu programs on the same vehicle ran against a standard setting vehicle. We found significant performance gains with the Carls package on our 800. The 800 benchmark sled get's ridden regularly from 4-6200 ft in one area....5200-8200 in another...then we also ran it for 8 day rides at 9000-11000. Across the board it was faster when we ran a steeper helix and the bellybuster weights with a Carl's ECU. The variabl was that it called for 2 grams less at the highest riding zone to maintain RPM and hit it's max track speed that we had seen at lower elevations. I also tested a totally different helix and 10 series combo (multiple weights to nail RPM) with another ECU program for this pipe setup from the manufacturer and our experience was that the sled was slower getting from point A to point B. No belt heat issues or belt failures on any of the setups and the only sigficant performance issue was the original 10 weight with a steeper helix over rev'd and layed down on top speed.
My statements are on variable clutch and ecu programs on the same vehicle ran against a standard setting vehicle. We found significant performance gains with the Carls package on our 800. The 800 benchmark sled get's ridden regularly from 4-6200 ft in one area....5200-8200 in another...then we also ran it for 8 day rides at 9000-11000. Across the board it was faster when we ran a steeper helix and the bellybuster weights with a Carl's ECU. The variabl was that it called for 2 grams less at the highest riding zone to maintain RPM and hit it's max track speed that we had seen at lower elevations. I also tested a totally different helix and 10 series combo (multiple weights to nail RPM) with another ECU program for this pipe setup from the manufacturer and our experience was that the sled was slower getting from point A to point B. No belt heat issues or belt failures on any of the setups and the only sigficant performance issue was the original 10 weight with a steeper helix over rev'd and layed down on top speed.
You are right , I'll keep the real results to my self, I just happen to own both.
I bought the xp thinking and from what everyone told me it was the sled to have in the deep powder .
I found out it does well but not as good as my pipped 163 dragon.
I bought the xp thinking and from what everyone told me it was the sled to have in the deep powder .
I found out it does well but not as good as my pipped 163 dragon.
right now my sled has all stock motor /pipe on it..it dropped from running a max of 8450(with the single pipe on it) down to 8150-8200 with the stock pipe..in good champayne powder it went from 57 mph (piped) to 54mph(stock)..setup still works very good but I sure miss the pipe..lol
hillking.. I don't understand this comment with relation to my post.
"You are right , I'll keep the real results to my self, I just happen to own both."
aksnowrider...have you tried any aftermarket can with the stock pipe...and then have you also tried to get back some of the RPM's with clutching on the stock exhaust?
I wonder if the TS variance is RPM related and the system calls for higher RPM at top end which is in direct conflict with HP/TQ data from dyno runs which show significant fall off at the RPM's which we see in the field that result in faster TS and further distance covered in time duration vehicle.
What they want for RPM seems to be a critical issue but it hasn't been nailed yet or reported. One other slightly frustrating situation is that we saw some RPM variances between the stock Polaris gauge and a datalogger gauge on the same vehicle. That was bothersome!
"You are right , I'll keep the real results to my self, I just happen to own both."
aksnowrider...have you tried any aftermarket can with the stock pipe...and then have you also tried to get back some of the RPM's with clutching on the stock exhaust?
I wonder if the TS variance is RPM related and the system calls for higher RPM at top end which is in direct conflict with HP/TQ data from dyno runs which show significant fall off at the RPM's which we see in the field that result in faster TS and further distance covered in time duration vehicle.
What they want for RPM seems to be a critical issue but it hasn't been nailed yet or reported. One other slightly frustrating situation is that we saw some RPM variances between the stock Polaris gauge and a datalogger gauge on the same vehicle. That was bothersome!
Sorry if im beating a dead horse here but does this sound like the right set up for a stock d8 155? (my sled still has the stock clutching but this is where i am thinking of going)
3000-6000 feet
MTX 68 gram weights (as i understand it this is the weight without any added rivits?)
60-38ER.36 / 60-40ER.36 helix. (start with the 60-40 and it its too much go to the other side)
and Possible a stiffer primary spring.
Would anyone recomend this is a good place to start or is there something better? I dont get a lot of time to go ride and test so when i go i just like to run, so a good starting point is the most important, not to mention its expensive...lol
3000-6000 feet
MTX 68 gram weights (as i understand it this is the weight without any added rivits?)
60-38ER.36 / 60-40ER.36 helix. (start with the 60-40 and it its too much go to the other side)
and Possible a stiffer primary spring.
Would anyone recomend this is a good place to start or is there something better? I dont get a lot of time to go ride and test so when i go i just like to run, so a good starting point is the most important, not to mention its expensive...lol
hey rob, On my sled I have tried alot of stuff out on the hill as far as clutching goes..where it climbs the best with the slp single is at 8350-8450,any thing over that and you can feel it loose power and track speed..under it and it wont climb(with it turning 7900 it would climb 3/4 way up the hill..36-37 mph track speed,at 8200 it would get right up to the round over of the hill(barely and if you sidehilled you could get over it, track speed at 41-42 mph) at 8450 it goes over the top ski's 2 ft off the snow and pulling 46 -47 mph track speed(this on the same hill ,same day..about a foot of fresh on a good base)and the ground speed still respectable....doesnt matter what else I change as long as I can keep the r's over 8350 it climbs much better then when under 8250..(this is off the factory memory..unknown how acurite it is..)as for a can on the stock pipe..no(normally my slp single setup is on it but dealer made me promise to leave it stock till polaris comes out with a cure...mike
Great post here!!!
I have a '08 D8 163 and run at 7,000 feet and higher.
I bought a SLP pipe/can from TriCityPerformance and the dude behind the counter gave me the components for clutching to go along with the SLP kit. 58-38.46 helix, MTX weights (Added 2g tip 1g inside), Blue w/ pink and black w/ white springs. He said it would be perfect.
I set everything up and can only pull 7800 RPMs. The sled felt fine but didn't have the extra power. It basically went to sleep since the stock setup ran "much" better than the new setup.
I went on a family trip for Easter to Boise and HAD to stop at Carl's Cycle to see what the hype was all about. I explained my situation to a "clutching expert" and he recommended I do the following.....
Install a 62-42.40 helix, use the stock primary/secondary springs, add 2 delrin washers and use 60g BellyBuster weights. I bought all the stuff and have it ready for installation. This is COMPLETELY different than what was given to me at TriCityPerformance.
WHAT DO I DO?
I have a '08 D8 163 and run at 7,000 feet and higher.
I bought a SLP pipe/can from TriCityPerformance and the dude behind the counter gave me the components for clutching to go along with the SLP kit. 58-38.46 helix, MTX weights (Added 2g tip 1g inside), Blue w/ pink and black w/ white springs. He said it would be perfect.
I set everything up and can only pull 7800 RPMs. The sled felt fine but didn't have the extra power. It basically went to sleep since the stock setup ran "much" better than the new setup.
I went on a family trip for Easter to Boise and HAD to stop at Carl's Cycle to see what the hype was all about. I explained my situation to a "clutching expert" and he recommended I do the following.....
Install a 62-42.40 helix, use the stock primary/secondary springs, add 2 delrin washers and use 60g BellyBuster weights. I bought all the stuff and have it ready for installation. This is COMPLETELY different than what was given to me at TriCityPerformance.
WHAT DO I DO?
well..I started out with carls setup..62/42/.46 helix, stock springs and 2 delrins with belly buster weights for my elevations..still felt it was leaving some on the table so I went with slp's recommended setup for their pipe...still felt lacking so i did a mix and is what has performed best for me and my feel of what I want the sled to do..I run slp green/pink primary spring, 68 gram mtx weights with 2 grams in the tip 1 gram in the belly, (with .20 belt clearence in frnt clutch), secondary has 62/42/.46 helix, stock spring and 3 delrin washers..I clutch for 8300-8450 peak rpms with slp pipe(where I have found best performance on the hill)belt temps are low belts last and sled works very good in deep powder and really good on setup snow...you will have to experiment with what feels best for you..the single pipe seems to like more rpm then most run it at but the on hill performance is noticable with more rpms up to 8500...
Clutching
Question for you guys: I have had problems with rpms & track speed like a lot of guys. Pulling a hill in a foot of powder i can't get any more than 36mph and 7700-8000rpm. I ride an 09' rmk 800 155" which is bone stock other than an aftermarket can. I have purchased 3-delron washers, a green/pink primary spring, mtx 68 gram weights, a dual sided helix (58/40/.36 or 62/42/.46), but can't decide on my sprockets? I have heard of people using a 19/46 and having good results. You said you use a 19/42, but i've been told that might not be a big enough increase from the stock 19/41? I couldn't find a 60/40/.36 helix so i went with the dual sided. I might have all of these helix numbers a little screwy so bare with me, but i think that's what i've been told. And i've been told a 19/45 or 19/43 sprocket setup is great, but then i've had a local mechanic say that polaris doesn't recommend those cuz it'll cause problems unless you use a 20 top with a 43 or 45 bottom? So i'm frikin' confused. I'd really appreciate your advice. Once again, my sled is stock, so i'm sure your slp single & reeds make a difference with your setup. Let me know though. Thanks alot.
Question for you guys: I have had problems with rpms & track speed like a lot of guys. Pulling a hill in a foot of powder i can't get any more than 36mph and 7700-8000rpm. I ride an 09' rmk 800 155" which is bone stock other than an aftermarket can. I have purchased 3-delron washers, a green/pink primary spring, mtx 68 gram weights, a dual sided helix (58/40/.36 or 62/42/.46), but can't decide on my sprockets? I have heard of people using a 19/46 and having good results. You said you use a 19/42, but i've been told that might not be a big enough increase from the stock 19/41? I couldn't find a 60/40/.36 helix so i went with the dual sided. I might have all of these helix numbers a little screwy so bare with me, but i think that's what i've been told. And i've been told a 19/45 or 19/43 sprocket setup is great, but then i've had a local mechanic say that polaris doesn't recommend those cuz it'll cause problems unless you use a 20 top with a 43 or 45 bottom? So i'm frikin' confused. I'd really appreciate your advice. Once again, my sled is stock, so i'm sure your slp single & reeds make a difference with your setup. Let me know though. Thanks alot.
brown bear, I run 19/42 and it was a noticable improvement..would like to try 19/45 just to see what it does but from what others have said it works very good...
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