sounds good more testing boss
thanks guys
thanks guys
question for those who clutched their D-8's
- Thread starter AKSNOWRIDER
- Start date
Aksnorider, I am new here (3-4 months) but not new to snowmobiling. Where do you get the delrin washers for the secondary? First I have heard of shimming the secondary, or at least on the team, never played with it too much. Got a part #? I have an 07 600HO with SLP pipe and can. MTX weights (didn't have to shim) and airbox. It pulls so hard you better hang on, takes my brothers 08 700 in all areas. Got a buddy of mine who used to live in AK, now he lives in Seattle (4Z). Thanks for the info, might give the shims a try. Maybe PM me back?
you can get the derlin washers from slp or maybe WPS
SLP also sells the shims check out the web site www.startinglineproducts.com
SLP also sells the shims check out the web site www.startinglineproducts.com
R
Ron
ACCOUNT CLOSED
We ran the Bl/Red with 66-44-.46 on our 03-05 Edge 8's but they were a little weak on back shift. Very good drag race sled though.
Try a helix with a 40 angle and the Bl/Purple spring for your driven, then tune the drive clutch. You should be able to pull 10-64's and the Almond (or equivalent) spring or at least be close.
The initial angle 64, 66 etc. is gone at 12-18 MPH so R's are governed mostly by the fixed angle...40, 42, 44 etc.-the last number is just the length of the first angle in inches, ie .46".
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Have any of you guys tried this primary cover from Hi-Tech Engineering? How about the "Quick Adjust"? I'm giving it a try with my BD Pump Turbo install. EW
I havent eric, looked at doing it but I only run one set of weights now except when I am testing stuff and my last belt went almost 1100 miles before pulling a thread ..so I couldnt justify the cost(the part, rebalancing and the time down)..but I like the idea...
S
Spaarky
Well-known member
I have looked at that cover before, what is it suppose to accomplish again?
I used to run some of their secondard stuff. I could never get their set ups to be consistent. When it was on, it ran like a raped ape, but just seemed all over the board. So I gave up on it...
I used to run some of their secondard stuff. I could never get their set ups to be consistent. When it was on, it ran like a raped ape, but just seemed all over the board. So I gave up on it...
E
EricW
Well-known member
A
akrevrider
Well-known member
TSS-04 secondary shims w/ delrin washers?
AKsnowrider,
I have the same question as Adrenalin on shimming your secondary w/delrins. Is your clutch the newer Team or a TSS-98 version that benefited from the derins creating a smoother shift?
Thanks,
AKRR
AKsnowrider,
I have the same question as Adrenalin on shimming your secondary w/delrins. Is your clutch the newer Team or a TSS-98 version that benefited from the derins creating a smoother shift?
Thanks,
AKRR
AKsnowrider,
I have the same question as Adrenalin on shimming your secondary w/delrins. Is your clutch the newer Team or a TSS-98 version that benefited from the derins creating a smoother shift?
Thanks,
AKRR
mine is a TS-04 but both will benefit from the delrins..2 is normal one on each end of the spring...
Mike/Ron-
Put the 62gram MTX's in this weekend and did some testing. I took out the 10-58's, which had way too much belt-to-sheave clearance. The MTX's are perfect, about .010 now.
Performance wise, better pull and hole shot for sure. I do have one tuning question for you guys though: with both the MTX's and the 10-58's my sled easily spike to 8450-8550 and hold between 8350 and 8450 in deep, bottomless powder. But on a hard pack trail I don't see much more than 8150 when holding it wide open on a long flat stretch. Unless I spin the track (crack it wide open from a dead stop) I never get more than 8150. Does this seem right...I kind of feel like I would like to seem more r's on the trail...?
Also, this is in a 685 struthers @ 10,500 ft. 160/340 primary, Black/White secondary w/ 64.40.36 and three derlins.
How did Ron's testing go this weekend?
Put the 62gram MTX's in this weekend and did some testing. I took out the 10-58's, which had way too much belt-to-sheave clearance. The MTX's are perfect, about .010 now.
Performance wise, better pull and hole shot for sure. I do have one tuning question for you guys though: with both the MTX's and the 10-58's my sled easily spike to 8450-8550 and hold between 8350 and 8450 in deep, bottomless powder. But on a hard pack trail I don't see much more than 8150 when holding it wide open on a long flat stretch. Unless I spin the track (crack it wide open from a dead stop) I never get more than 8150. Does this seem right...I kind of feel like I would like to seem more r's on the trail...?
Also, this is in a 685 struthers @ 10,500 ft. 160/340 primary, Black/White secondary w/ 64.40.36 and three derlins.
How did Ron's testing go this weekend?
RON said testing results were great... as for the hardpack rpm..I dont have any experience with the black/white sec spring ,do you know what the pressures are? does it accelerate hard? even though the rpms are down?
Black/White - 160/260
Black/Purpule - 160/240
Perhaps a little too much pressure on finish rate is holding my r's down on hard pack..? I know that more finish rate will help you hold HIGHER rpm when climbing (better backshift).
I do have a Black/Red 140/240 that I could try. And if I use the helix/spring shim I would re-gain some initial pressure. As far as acceleration goes, yes it accelerates nicely through 3/4 throttle, but seems to have a feeling of continuing to pull from 3/4 - full throttle.
thanks
Black/Purpule - 160/240
Perhaps a little too much pressure on finish rate is holding my r's down on hard pack..? I know that more finish rate will help you hold HIGHER rpm when climbing (better backshift).
I do have a Black/Red 140/240 that I could try. And if I use the helix/spring shim I would re-gain some initial pressure. As far as acceleration goes, yes it accelerates nicely through 3/4 throttle, but seems to have a feeling of continuing to pull from 3/4 - full throttle.
thanks
Do you still have the black/purple? if so I would try both it and the black/red on back to back rides and see which you like better,and I would only use a shim as a 1 ride test(which is what I did on my last test)since it not only slightly increases spring press, it also shortens the length of the initial angle as well as the degree of angle,,,if all you are after is raising spring pressurea by a very small amount add an extra delrin or 2...I am thinking the black/purple spring is going to work ..but try both..(you have the exact opposite problem everyone else has..most run more rpm on hardpack less in powder...)
Crap...I left out a word in my last post, but I think you got the point any way. I meant to say, "but seems to NOT have a feeling of continuing to pull from 3/4 - full throttle."
My guess is that I am runnig too high of finish rates. The combonation of 340 finish rate on the primary and 260 on the secondary is just too much for my sled/wts/combo.
I do not have the Black/Purple spring, might have to break down and get one. Thanks for the suggestions.
My guess is that I am runnig too high of finish rates. The combonation of 340 finish rate on the primary and 260 on the secondary is just too much for my sled/wts/combo.
I do not have the Black/Purple spring, might have to break down and get one. Thanks for the suggestions.
So with the stock gearing(20/41), 1.25"x144 track, and 114 studs, how well would the stock helix and spring work on hard/trail snow? with the MTX 68's with 3g rivets outer and 2g inner (73g total) and slp Blue/Pink 140-340, or the Team srping bright green 150-340 for a bit more engagement? all this at 1300-3000 feet. AK you have been a big help! Just want to get the speed giggles out of this machine...09 shift 800 144
And now for something completely different
Way outside the box, and this is the best working setup of any sled I've had.
I'll start with the basics. Stock sled with a Skinz Ultra Q silencer and ceramic coated pipe.
19/42 gearing
Heelclicker Drag and Fly weights. DF70's
170-360 primary spring from kit.
3.2g in shoulder location
3.2g in center location
6.8g in overdrive location
58/42-.36 helix
160/280 spring
Very smooth engagement with no trenching issues. No low rpm belt slip. Extremely hard up shift and back shift. Great response all around. I do mostly boon docking and this was ideal. Fun factor of 10+
For climbing and more top speed, I would do 1.5g in center and tip locations.
You can tune these to give Ski Doo like low end pull.
Check them out here. http://www.supertorquer.com/drag.html
Way outside the box, and this is the best working setup of any sled I've had.
I'll start with the basics. Stock sled with a Skinz Ultra Q silencer and ceramic coated pipe.
19/42 gearing
Heelclicker Drag and Fly weights. DF70's
170-360 primary spring from kit.
3.2g in shoulder location
3.2g in center location
6.8g in overdrive location
58/42-.36 helix
160/280 spring
Very smooth engagement with no trenching issues. No low rpm belt slip. Extremely hard up shift and back shift. Great response all around. I do mostly boon docking and this was ideal. Fun factor of 10+
For climbing and more top speed, I would do 1.5g in center and tip locations.
You can tune these to give Ski Doo like low end pull.
Check them out here. http://www.supertorquer.com/drag.html
Good post Monte...I used to mess with Heel Clicker wts about 7 years ago. They seemed to be awesome drag wts but we never could get them to be very reliable or consistent. HOWEVER, they have made A TON of improvements since then and I would imagine that their new style set-up is pretty sweet. I know your stuff rocks so that alone would lead me to believe they have fixed any issues they may have had.
Have you tried any other aftermarket wt...MTX, Belly Buster, STM, etc.?
Have you tried any other aftermarket wt...MTX, Belly Buster, STM, etc.?
T
theultrarider
Well-known member
800xtreme, I think Mike (aksnowrider) nailed it for you. Sounds like you have just too much spring in the secondary. I tried the 140/260 in my edge 800 and it would act almost like I hit a brick wall at about 60mph and just fall on its face. I shouldn't say that. The motor would rev, just run out of acceleration. It didn't really back shift any better than a 240 did either. I wound up using the black/purple... good backshift and good upshift. I wuold start there for sure.
As for the heelcricker weights, I have 2 buddies that use them for racing hillclimbs. They love the way they shift so agressively and pull hard, but have given up using them for weekend play rides. They work, but they both keep breaking them. They just don't hold up. They bbreak the pins that they pivot on.
As for the heelcricker weights, I have 2 buddies that use them for racing hillclimbs. They love the way they shift so agressively and pull hard, but have given up using them for weekend play rides. They work, but they both keep breaking them. They just don't hold up. They bbreak the pins that they pivot on.
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