Question for all u twisted turbo owners

[Snowmow]

O No Problem.

Another brain fart here.

How do you tell if you have a crank seal going out? Spray a little starting fluid around the seal, because it is sucking in right? Now on a turbo sled, when under boost this would be an opposite situation. The crank case when under boost is going to be positive pressure. So lets say you run 10psi max boost, so the minimum amount of pressure in the case is going to be 10psi, then it is going to increase as the piston starts down until the piston passes the intake ports. So a wild guess will say maybe 20psi max pressure inside the case, This is what we are relying on to lubricate the water pump/oil pump shaft. But when your at an idle, or at a no boost level, your actually sucking on the line. So after a nice hard pull, you back out of the throttle and you have it sucking the oil/gas back out of the line. Right?

Here is another thought, (stealing from the skidoo race sleds back in the day) they ran a piece of poly tubing from this cavity up and back by the steering post. You filled it with two stroke oil, and put a cap in the line (with a small vent of course) This flooded the cavity and gave you a visual of how much oil is in the area. Once filled it hardly ever needed much attention. But you could see it for sure.

Again good discussion. Really makes you think about the differences between a normally aspirated sled and a boosted sled.

This added boost pressure in the case is probably why a crank seal wouldn't necessarily cause a lean burn down, the boost controller would just open up a bit more to maintain the set pressure. But you would start to see oil/gas blowing out on the back of your clutch or inside the recoil housing. And you might have a high idle because without the boost your sucking air again.

Thunder

Good info here.

The one way valve is supposed to only let the crank case pressure flow one way, towards the center section. Right ?

 

[Snowmow]

Also. Wouldn't the crankcase pressure always be higher on one side compared to the other. Being one is on compression stroke and the other on intake. Therefore creating a differential to move oil and fuel across

 

[Arctic Thunder]

Good info here.

The one way valve is supposed to only let the crank case pressure flow one way, towards the center section. Right ?

I would think so. Sounds right. As long as it is working correctly.

Thunder

 

[Arctic Thunder]

Also. Wouldn't the crankcase pressure always be higher on one side compared to the other. Being one is on compression stroke and the other on intake. Therefore creating a differential to move oil and fuel across

I don't think it matters (pressure one side or the other). The drilling is done on only one side of the case so it is being feed only from one cylinder. The cases are separate in the bottom end. So their shouldn't be any transfer between the two sides.

Thunder

 

[Snowmow]

On HCM's sled.
To have gone 2500 miles before failure. Either it was working and something malfunctioned. Or if he had put the 20cc in on deleting the injection. That oil after 2500miles had dissipated. And there was no new lubrication coming in.
So unless your putting over 2000 miles on a sled in a season. Maybe just pulling the tube off the one way valve and injecting another 20cc a Season would suffice.

 

[Hardass]

I can tell you grease will not stay in that cavity i
even if filled it will be gone in fairly short order i have no drilling no one way valve and greas through a zirk every once in a while noe problems for 2 years i just split the case and theres no real sigh of grease in there tho there were signs of oil.i did find out that you can pump enough grease way before a full tube that it will be very hard to pull over.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

I can tell you grease will not stay in that cavity i
even if filled it will be gone in fairly short order i have no drilling no one way valve and greas through a zirk every once in a while noe problems for 2 years i just split the case and theres no real sigh of grease in there tho there were signs of oil.i did find out that you can pump enough grease way before a full tube that it will be very hard to pull over.

That's kind of why we went with the lithium based grease. Right or wrong it seams that the lithium based stuff has a bit more sticktion to it, and even after mostly washed off it still lubricates pretty darn good. I don't think you could over grease it that's for sure.

Thunder

 

[Arctic Thunder]

On HCM's sled.
To have gone 2500 miles before failure. Either it was working and something malfunctioned. Or if he had put the 20cc in on deleting the injection. That oil after 2500miles had dissipated. And there was no new lubrication coming in.
So unless your putting over 2000 miles on a sled in a season. Maybe just pulling the tube off the one way valve and injecting another 20cc a Season would suffice.

Who knows really. It was just dry when pulled apart, so we assumed lack of lubrication, but could have been time. And the added heat from going bad made it look more like a lubrication problem.

Thunder

 

[rusty rider]

Was that the kit Kevin was selling this over this last summer?

 

[Snowmow]

Yes it is.

 

[rusty rider]

Nice, I was looking into it over the summer but didn't want oil injection. How does it run out? Sorry getting off topic a bit.

 

[Snowmow]

Havnt rode it yet. Called Shaine. He talked me into doing the injection delete. Kit was very nice though.