Reeds are good just put new petals on when i did the turbo install. Still up in the air about a grease zerk lol
Question for all u twisted turbo owners
- Thread starter blackt
- Start date
Reeds are good just put new petals on when i did the turbo install. Still up in the air about a grease zerk lol
Run good oil and forget about it.
Until your bottom end goes to SH!t. Lol.
I did everything the way Shaine advised, I dont think he would run the risk of seizing the water pump shaft on his own sleds. So I went with what he said.
Your popping thing has me a little concerned though. Backfiring can take out reeds in a hurry.
Until your bottom end goes to SH!t. Lol.
I did everything the way Shaine advised, I dont think he would run the risk of seizing the water pump shaft on his own sleds. So I went with what he said.
Your popping thing has me a little concerned though. Backfiring can take out reeds in a hurry.
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Arctic Thunder
Well-known member
Your probably right. But I think one other thing to consider is if you do it the way it was instructed, it's one less thing you need to think about every ride. Well except for wondering if it's getting enough lube.
Pin it!
Thunder
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Arctic Thunder
Well-known member
You know that is one thing that I really miss is the oil injection. Ill be 100% honest, I HATE mixing for every ride. But it is a weight savings and you lose a bunch of extra junk when you use the stock oil pump to feed the turbo. Catch 22 I suppose.
Thunder
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Arctic Thunder
Well-known member
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Arctic Thunder
Well-known member
Looks pretty clean. I bet having all the oil injection stuff on their clutters it up.
But would be nice.
Thunder
But would be nice.
Thunder
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Arctic Thunder
Well-known member
NOPE!!! I am hoping at 10-11lbs of boost it won't be a problem. I sucked one of the stock (cage) type filters in through the turbo early last year. Shain did a total rebuild for me and sent me a new cage. I ran it the rest of the season. Then when doing my end of season checks I noticed this cage was also coming apart. So I said to heck with it and am going to try a filter and the dry prefilter sock from K&N. I know a lot of big HP turbo diesels run them and they don't have an issue. My thought is I could see increased charge temps and maybe a bit more lag. Will see. If it doesn't work I am going to get a silicone adapter from the turbo inlet to a screen/cage again. I think the screen/cage was failing because of the turbo vibration. I need a rubber isolater between the housing and the cage.
Thunder
Reeds are good just put new petals on when i did the turbo install. Still up in the air about a grease zerk lol
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Arctic Thunder
Well-known member
Didn't you say that in Post #21?
IMO grease zirk. But you make the call.
Lots of help aren't we.
Thunder
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HCM
Well-known member
was out all weekend so the one I had had the crossed drilled case had about 2500 miles on it was riding down the road and it locked up and quit tore it apart and there was not a stitch of oil in the cavity should have been but was not hard to say if the line plugged up or what all I new is it was not happening again so I put the zirk was it a pain no is it more things to do before going ya piece of mind id priceless I say a couple pumps before you go and no worries ran the sled 3 more years with no problems at all pulled it down put new pistons in no sign of grease in the motor at all so it is going some ware the compartment took a full tube when I put the new bottom end in to fill so the grease goes some ware, I do like the not to have to mess with it mode but come on it is a Turbo sled not messing with it is a pipe dream but the fun is in the flipper on the bars.
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Hillclimbpro
Well-known member
So your saying you put a whole tube of grease inside your motor at once!! That's crazy !! Never heard of such a thing. Most guys just do a couple pumps. For your line "maybe" being plugged, when you took it apart did you inspect the line to see if it WAS or WASN'T plugged? Or are you just making assumptions. As snowmow stated above I don't think Shane would steer people down the road of bottom end failure after just spending 6k with him.
I know when you grease heavy equipment you pump grease till you see it start to squeeze out but I didn't know that's how you grease the bottom end of your sled. So when you stopped pumping that whole tube in was it coming out the exhaust or the intake first?
I know when you grease heavy equipment you pump grease till you see it start to squeeze out but I didn't know that's how you grease the bottom end of your sled. So when you stopped pumping that whole tube in was it coming out the exhaust or the intake first?
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Arctic Thunder
Well-known member
The cavity in and around the drive gear is pretty darn big. Big enough you could pack it with a pretty good amount of grease. So I think on a rebuild it isn't much different to pack it with grease when you assemble, then give it a few shots prior to each ride.
And I don't think anyone wants to dispute that Shain has done a ton of these installs and most without any issues. But I have to ask, how well can you blow 5 psi through a 1/8" piece of poly tubing and two banjo fittings into a SEALED compartment? Not going to get much here. Don't' care how you slice it or dice it.
Again do what you want. I am 100% positive that's what HCM and others have been doing. Doing what they feel is best for their application.
Thunder
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Hillclimbpro
Well-known member
I wasn't knocking him was just asking a question on what he found when he took it apart and then added a little sarcasm at the end. All fun a games
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Arctic Thunder
Well-known member
O No Problem.
Another brain fart here.
How do you tell if you have a crank seal going out? Spray a little starting fluid around the seal, because it is sucking in right? Now on a turbo sled, when under boost this would be an opposite situation. The crank case when under boost is going to be positive pressure. So lets say you run 10psi max boost, so the minimum amount of pressure in the case is going to be 10psi, then it is going to increase as the piston starts down until the piston passes the intake ports. So a wild guess will say maybe 20psi max pressure inside the case, This is what we are relying on to lubricate the water pump/oil pump shaft. But when your at an idle, or at a no boost level, your actually sucking on the line. So after a nice hard pull, you back out of the throttle and you have it sucking the oil/gas back out of the line. Right?
Here is another thought, (stealing from the skidoo race sleds back in the day) they ran a piece of poly tubing from this cavity up and back by the steering post. You filled it with two stroke oil, and put a cap in the line (with a small vent of course) This flooded the cavity and gave you a visual of how much oil is in the area. Once filled it hardly ever needed much attention. But you could see it for sure.
Again good discussion. Really makes you think about the differences between a normally aspirated sled and a boosted sled.
This added boost pressure in the case is probably why a crank seal wouldn't necessarily cause a lean burn down, the boost controller would just open up a bit more to maintain the set pressure. But you would start to see oil/gas blowing out on the back of your clutch or inside the recoil housing. And you might have a high idle because without the boost your sucking air again.
Thunder
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