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Problem with Silber turbo kit thread number 2.

Sunvang

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Problem with Silber turbo kit thread number 2. NOW WITH VIDEO

Free member and hit the reading limit the last thread so continuind in this one, from this thread: http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2933137&posted=1#post2933137




Driving normal at cruising A/F ratio at 13.5 to 15 and then give it WOT, runs good at WOT with an A/F ratio at around 12 for 1-2sec but suddenly boggs out and started to only go on one cylinder. Checked the plugs and they were too bright in my opinion and both dry. Changed plug on PTO side after I found out that was dead. Started it, tried to ride and it ran great. Later in the night, same thing happens but now i only had to stop it, then start it again and were good to go. Hasnt happened since. Any toughts on what happend?




Another issue that's usually only happens when riding on long lakes, riding at around 5-6000rpms with a A/F ratio at 14-15, then trying to give it WOT it detonates and dET comes on almost right after i get boost.


Last issue, sometimes engine light comes on and its a battery blinking in to left lower corner of the display. Anybody know what that is?
 
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Just came in from a little ride, sled works great besides hitting dET about 3-4times when on around 4-5psi and about 2-3times on around 6psi before i lowered it down. But don't think the boost has really to much to say on this one since im always hitting dET when going from cruising and slowly towards WOT, I belive it happens at around 6-7000rpms.

Also happened a couple times, going from WOT to cruising and back to WOT it would bog alittle so i had to release the throttle and pin it again before it came again.


Still running straight pump gas and clutching is at 76.7 or something, but their to heavy so ill only get like 7800rpms at WOT. Is there a big hp gain from 7800 to 8200?? Think it runs good now but tought it would run better.
 
Have grinded of enough on the frame where the bolt holding the throttle bpody can rub, checked the spot where the power valve and pipe can hit before going out today, had some vibration marks so i bent the shield alittle.

Where else could it be hitting?? :(
 
Maybe you should just try running some race gas in the mix. It's easy to try and at least you can eliminate octane as the problem. If octane is the problem you could be chasing your tail here.
 
There, premium member and a one year subscription to SnoWest and Sledheads ;) And yes, im am greatfull of all the help ive been reciveing on this forum ;)


I have ordered 25liters of race fuel, costs $29 a gallon here in Norway so it's expencive to ride with :face-icon-small-dis
 
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I just wonder if there is a wire or something else grounding out. I know it can be frustrating but just doesn't make sense if the AF numbers are good for it to DET. Have you re-calibrated the AF gauge just to make sure its working good?

And the solenoid is hooked up with single port to controller and the side with 2 ports to tb boots? I'll see what else I can think of. Also you make sure that the brown wire coming out of the controller is NOT hooked up to the AF gauge? Just trying to eliminate any easy stuff.
 
I just wonder if there is a wire or something else grounding out. I know it can be frustrating but just doesn't make sense if the AF numbers are good for it to DET. Have you re-calibrated the AF gauge just to make sure its working good?

And the solenoid is hooked up with single port to controller and the side with 2 ports to tb boots? I'll see what else I can think of. Also you make sure that the brown wire coming out of the controller is NOT hooked up to the AF gauge? Just trying to eliminate any easy stuff.

Thanks for the effort on helping me :)

AF numbers are very good, when jumping around ill get max 15. AF gauge dont need calibrating, its an AEM with is calibration free.

Solenoid is hooked up correct, just like you explained.

Nothing on the controller is connected to the AF gauge.


Just want to add that this is the 2011 kit, if anybody wonders :)
 
hm turbos anyone

Thumbs down......... Don't be a troll. I would glady run my Silber against your HM any day of the week:face-icon-small-win

If you notice a trend most of the problems are not with the kits but with the installs. There may a few issues here and there but that is the same for every kit. Its how you handle them that separates the men from the boys.
 
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Is there any small airports in your area? U should search them out and find urself a place to buy 100ll. It's in my opinion better then race gas, it has anti knock additive and is just a really good clean fuel. It does suck carrying tanks around everywhere. U should beable to run more boost as well.
 
Post
Elevation
Fuel Mixture
Fuel Settings (each one)
Has it always done this or is this something new?
Rpm WOT?
Do the RPM's spike early then come down if you pin it from a dead stop?
If they do how high do they show?
Have you contacted Silber or are we on our own?
If you have what has he had you check?
 
Pump gas and turbos just don't mix. It's just a matter of time before the motor comes apart. Good choice ordering some race fuel, that will help you troubleshoot your problem. Empty your tank and try running it straight to see if your troubles dissappear. If they do then add some pump to it.
 
There, premium member and a one year subscription to SnoWest and Sledheads ;) And yes, im am greatfull of all the help ive been reciveing on this forum ;)


I have ordered 25liters of race fuel, costs $29 a gallon here in Norway so it's expencive to ride with :face-icon-small-dis

Can you purchase aviation fuel there? In the states it cost $1.00-$1.50 more than pump gas. I run 50/50 pump and avgas and have never hit my det sensor. I have 4500-5000 miles on two stroke turbo's and avgas with zero issues. Just an idea.
 
Is there any small airports in your area? U should search them out and find urself a place to buy 100ll. It's in my opinion better then race gas, it has anti knock additive and is just a really good clean fuel. It does suck carrying tanks around everywhere. U should beable to run more boost as well.

Have contacted most of them around me, but youll need a small plane to be able to buy. Very strickt rules here in Norway about that :( But I havent given up on it yet.
 
Can you purchase aviation fuel there? In the states it cost $1.00-$1.50 more than pump gas. I run 50/50 pump and avgas and have never hit my det sensor. I have 4500-5000 miles on two stroke turbo's and avgas with zero issues. Just an idea.

See post over me. And for the record it would be best to get ahold of some 100LL, it cost just the same as pump gas.
 
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