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Oregonsledder
Well-known member
TTT
PRO-RMK STRUCTURAL ADHESIVES: WHAT TO USE, WHERE TO GET IT
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
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volcano buster
Well-known member
Follow up question:
If a part is heated up and removed after it had been assembled with the adhesive, what is the clean up process to remove the old adhesive?
I imagine that the bonding area would need to be cleaned up good before re-applying new adhesive.
If a part is heated up and removed after it had been assembled with the adhesive, what is the clean up process to remove the old adhesive?
I imagine that the bonding area would need to be cleaned up good before re-applying new adhesive.
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/t...-Sanding-pronto_shop&infoParam.campaignId=T9R
at about 1/4 to 1/2 trottle on the trigger after removing the big chunks.
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volcano buster
Well-known member
Makes sense, but...
(Let me take a moment and remove any gutters, done!)
On the Pro front structure there is a male/female connection. If you are re-using the female receptacle, how do you clean the inside of this part?
(Let me take a moment and remove any gutters, done!)
On the Pro front structure there is a male/female connection. If you are re-using the female receptacle, how do you clean the inside of this part?
I went to my local bodyshop and bought the proper adhesive. They had a wide array of different adhesives for different applications with different work times. The nozzle was 5 bucks and he sold me a part tube, so all together I spent $25. I borrowed the applicator gun for the night so it worked out to be a cheap repair. Not that this is the same option for everyone, but it doesnt hurt to ask.
What is the right clean up chemical for the Lord glue? I was thinking of dropping the Clecos in a cup of this cleaner right when I take them off to try and salvage them from the glue.
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Bull
Well-known member
not totally on subject, but spending a bit of coin on a good "caulk gun" is worth it....
for use in this case and also for use in hood/panel repair. you can get some auto bumper repair material in the same type of tube. works like a champ fixing busted plastic panels.
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=FUS300R&Category_Code=6PRM
for use in this case and also for use in hood/panel repair. you can get some auto bumper repair material in the same type of tube. works like a champ fixing busted plastic panels.
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=FUS300R&Category_Code=6PRM
ttt
Does anyone have any recommendations where to order the application kit and adhesive? What kind of prices are you guys paying? Thanks in advance, Matt
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whittaker727
Well-known member
This is where I bought mine. I was pretty nervous about application, but no big deal after I got into it.
http://www.ellsworth.com/lord-406-19-modified-acrylic-adhesive-50-ml-cartridge/
You used the lp? I was token the gb was better, but I'm only finding it in the 375 ml option. Hoping to find the gb in a 50 ml setup.
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whittaker727
Well-known member
Well, it that's the wrong stuff, it's too late now. I guess I'll find out soon enough eh? I can tell you that after it was cured, I couldn't pull it back off.
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Oregonsledder
Well-known member
You are fine, you don't need the glass beads. It just insures a more uniform thickness (application), but otherwise it's the same stuff.
I have used both and can't see a difference.
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whittaker727
Well-known member
Thanks. I thought my torque wrench, chaincase bearings and shafts would insure even thickness 
Like I said, once it set up, I couldn't pull it back off so I was going for it. Still have enough left for doing my new running boards too
Like I said, once it set up, I couldn't pull it back off so I was going for it. Still have enough left for doing my new running boards too
Thanks, this is the link I ended up ordering from.
bump
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geo
Well-known member
Anybody try just glue and just a few rivets (to set alignment) with running boards? If the glue is as strong as thought it seems like adding the rivets is just extra weight (reason for glue?).
I am thinking of reglueing my 2013 drive shaft before use (worry wart maybe but changing drivers anyway). There looks to be about a 1/4"ish of overlap in the hexshaft to stub end interface. This is very little surface area and only 6 thrust points with zero fasteners in a very high torque application.
Wouldn't the use of the glue eliminate the need for fasteners except to align things during curetime?
Another question. Does this glue require pressure while curing? Or, do you simply need to apply enough force to stop any movement until fully cured. What is total cure time until max strength.
I am thinking of reglueing my 2013 drive shaft before use (worry wart maybe but changing drivers anyway). There looks to be about a 1/4"ish of overlap in the hexshaft to stub end interface. This is very little surface area and only 6 thrust points with zero fasteners in a very high torque application.
Wouldn't the use of the glue eliminate the need for fasteners except to align things during curetime?
Another question. Does this glue require pressure while curing? Or, do you simply need to apply enough force to stop any movement until fully cured. What is total cure time until max strength.
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