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PRO RMK SCHEDULED ON DYNOTECH RUNS NEXT WEEK

Does the elevation really matter? Shouldn't the dyno adjust for elevation?

I know when Xtreme was dyno testing 140 hp sleds were in the 99-103 range (I can't remember the exact number), but it was good to compare all the other sleds he tested as well. It was also interesting to see what he was getting at elevation. I'm not sure if that dyno was in Dacono or if he was mobile (and up on RE's).
 
Does the elevation really matter? Shouldn't the dyno adjust for elevation?

You can get corrected hp, but that doesn't compensate for how the motor actually runs at higher elevation and lower air density with a different fuel/air mix due to EFI, pipe air flow, and airbox design. Comparisons are only real when it's the same dyno, same day, same air density, same fuel. For whatever comparisons are worth.
 
I'd like to see dyno runs with lower octane fuel. My sled runs better when I run less race fuel. Not sure why testing is even done with 93, if compression is the same as 2010 it should run awesome on 87
 
this thread is hilarious.
what are you talking about ElectroTech? Every one knows a stock sled runs better on race gas. :rolleyes: :lol:
 
Yeah, say to he'll with it and run full C-16 on the dyno, might get it down to 120HP that way, 11.6:1 is radical compression not like the engines held together at the 13.8 they started at in 08, back then we had to put lead weights in the tank because 120 octane wasn't enough and had to get it higher. If deto stays away higher numbers come from lower octane.
 
I agree electrotech, I ran 87 octane last year in my 09 d-8 with no deto. I rode 3000'- 7000', I stated several times last year in different threads that people were wasting money and giving up horspower running higher octane fuel. We will see with the new pro, but if cr is the same and cumbustion chamber design is similar I will be running 87 octane again.:beer;
 
I agree electrotech, I ran 87 octane last year in my 09 d-8 with no deto. I rode 3000'- 7000', I stated several times last year in different threads that people were wasting money and giving up horspower running higher octane fuel. We will see with the new pro, but if cr is the same and cumbustion chamber design is similar I will be running 87 octane again.:beer;

CR is not the same.
 
After reading the owners manual as long as the ethanol plug is in the sled is run on 87 octane fuel. I know thats whats going in mine. I think a good oil is a better way to spend money than on 93 octane fuel. I am running Royal Purple and for $50 a gallon that stuff better be good.
 
After reading the owners manual as long as the ethanol plug is in the sled is run on 87 octane fuel. I know thats whats going in mine. I think a good oil is a better way to spend money than on 93 octane fuel. I am running Royal Purple and for $50 a gallon that stuff better be good.


More expensive does not equal better. Royal purple makes quality oil but I think you can get a good oil for less than $50 a gallon.
 
Yeah, say to he'll with it and run full C-16 on the dyno, might get it down to 120HP that way, 11.6:1 is radical compression not like the engines held together at the 13.8 they started at in 08, back then we had to put lead weights in the tank because 120 octane wasn't enough and had to get it higher. If deto stays away higher numbers come from lower octane.


Exactly true,

Years ago SoCal Race Fuel published a full page "test" in "National Dragster" N.H.R.A.'s paper.

They started at the Dragstrip with a bone stock 305 c.i. Chevy Malibu 8:1 smog motor, and raced in down the 1/4 mile at something in the 17 second elapsed time.

Then they changed out the fuel, each time installing a higher grade of their 5 grades of race gas they offered. With each step of higher octane, the Malibu got even slower elapsed time down the 1/4 mile.

Lesson to learn, MATCH the fuel to the C/R ! More octane is not necessarily faster/better
 
More expensive does not equal better. Royal purple makes quality oil but I think you can get a good oil for less than $50 a gallon.
I agree 100% with you on that one. I have had very good luck with thier products so I figured I'd give it a try. It is sold about 5 minutes down the street from me so I also ad in the convience factor. I've tried alot of different Royal Purple products for all kids of different machines and I have to say the stuff works VERY good and burn clean in 2 strokes and lubricates great in 4 strokes. I am sold on the stuff
 
Looks like the first dyno runs at DT showed 143.6 with the ethanol resistor and 9% ethanol in the tank. With the non-ethanol resistor it showed 147.4. Jim is going to post some information later today on the site.
 
did you notice the:rolleyes: in my post? I was just joking. Sounds like their are a few guys here that know.
In my street bikes I run 87 octane fuel on stock compresion engines. then I get clowns that try to say I am a idiot for not runing 91 octane because it is a performance bike and the sticker on the bike and the owners manual says to run 91 octane minimum. Then I get guys that say their stock engine bike runs better on 110 octane. I just smile and nod my head. I don't mention that my bike with the same a/f ratio runs almost 3mph slower in the 1/4 on 110 then it does on 87 pump. I also run up to 40hp nitrous on stock engine bikes on premium pump with stock heat range plugs. Some guys say you have to run strait c16 and one step colder plugs for this. I tried that 7 years ago and ran quite a bit slower then premium pump. no damage with premium pump and 40hp shot of nitrous on stock engine. I run c16 in my turbo bike drag racing. Ran up to 14lbs on premium pump with low compresion and water injection on the street. U4.4 in my stock engine busa and 75hp shot or so of nitrous. runs alot better then it did on 110 sunoco on nitrous and about the same as it did on 87 octane pump NA.
Just like I laugh at all the guys that say you have to run strait 110+ with a turbo sled and run redline or "insert $50 a gallon oil here".
Sorry to go off topic on this post. Can't wait to here the results from dynotech. :face-icon-small-coo

BTW... if the dyno is good with good correction factor software and sensors the corrected hp will be close enough. If someone screws with the correction factors to "adjust the numbers" the numbers will be off. I don't think Jim is into that sort of thing. unbiased. thank you
 
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i was watching the dyno runs...

138 HP.. was With No time on the CDI box.. FRESH Box!!

143 HP was Broken in CDI box...

148 HP Was with Broken in CDI Box.. and with 93 oct.. and the Plug change from 10% water gas! lol


it was i heard
 
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