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PalousePoo
Well-known member
Ron, I'm still waiting for you to send me the purchase agreement where I buy your 09 D8, slightly used, in excellent cond, in October 09 for $8000.00. (with all goodies)
Polaris P85 Drive Clutch Service/Setup/BluePrinting
- Thread starter Ron
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SNOWBOUNDRMK
New member
Ron, I was looking for a copy of this sent to my e-mail also. kmarthaler@boyertrucks.com. thanks.
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Ron
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Clutch Offset
Here is a copy of an article from the Dec. issue of SnowTech magazine on clutch alignment. Interesting concept but leaves too much to judgement. One would really just add or subtract washers behind the driven-poorly written article. Read on for some additional thoughts. Offset is simply the jog in a straight line between drive and driven clutch.
Here is a picture of my driven with my alignment tool, calipers and a picture of some of the washers. There are 3 washers available to space behind the driven. Might be metric but they are PN 7556509; 75555864; & 7555917 about 1/8", 1/16" & 1/32" thick. On the IQ you can buy an alignment tool or use an alternative method outlined below to check clutch offset. Because of the tight space and non removable belt guard most older methods won't work. My alignment tool is on the lower clutch, a black piece of aluminum that is perfectly straight-a piece of u shaped material once used for a shelf bracket.
1. Place the rod along the back of the driven clutch on the flat part above the helix (like in pic above) and press the driven toward the sled to remove the play.
2. Adjust the driven clutch width with the tool used for belt removal until the rod is flush with the outside rear sheave of the drive clutch-at the center point of the drive clutch.
3. Measure the width of the sheaves on the driven after completing 2 above = A and then measure the width again with the adjutment tool removed = B. The A less the B measurement gives the offset amount when you add that number to the width of the rod. On my 2009 Dragon 8....my tool is .620 wide or just under 5/8". My driven movement was a net of .070 added to the .620 gives me a clutch offset of .690". The driven floats out about .030 so my clutch offset will vary between .690" and .720". These measurements could easily be off a few thousandths, that much accuracy isn't necessary. Shim washers don't allow perfection, either.
We used to use 5/8" or .625 on the Edge with 1080 belts and half the belt width (old rule of thumb) would be .730.
I can't put my hands on the offset # recommended by Polaris or Team Industries. If someone has that # please add it or I'll post it later.
Note you may have to loosen the driven to get a rod behind it and don't use a rod over 5/8" wide-rod must be less than offset if you are to use the adjustment screw to get the rest of the measurement by moving the driven sheave.
Here is a copy of an article from the Dec. issue of SnowTech magazine on clutch alignment. Interesting concept but leaves too much to judgement. One would really just add or subtract washers behind the driven-poorly written article. Read on for some additional thoughts. Offset is simply the jog in a straight line between drive and driven clutch.
Here is a picture of my driven with my alignment tool, calipers and a picture of some of the washers. There are 3 washers available to space behind the driven. Might be metric but they are PN 7556509; 75555864; & 7555917 about 1/8", 1/16" & 1/32" thick. On the IQ you can buy an alignment tool or use an alternative method outlined below to check clutch offset. Because of the tight space and non removable belt guard most older methods won't work. My alignment tool is on the lower clutch, a black piece of aluminum that is perfectly straight-a piece of u shaped material once used for a shelf bracket.
1. Place the rod along the back of the driven clutch on the flat part above the helix (like in pic above) and press the driven toward the sled to remove the play.
2. Adjust the driven clutch width with the tool used for belt removal until the rod is flush with the outside rear sheave of the drive clutch-at the center point of the drive clutch.
3. Measure the width of the sheaves on the driven after completing 2 above = A and then measure the width again with the adjutment tool removed = B. The A less the B measurement gives the offset amount when you add that number to the width of the rod. On my 2009 Dragon 8....my tool is .620 wide or just under 5/8". My driven movement was a net of .070 added to the .620 gives me a clutch offset of .690". The driven floats out about .030 so my clutch offset will vary between .690" and .720". These measurements could easily be off a few thousandths, that much accuracy isn't necessary. Shim washers don't allow perfection, either.
We used to use 5/8" or .625 on the Edge with 1080 belts and half the belt width (old rule of thumb) would be .730.
I can't put my hands on the offset # recommended by Polaris or Team Industries. If someone has that # please add it or I'll post it later.
Note you may have to loosen the driven to get a rod behind it and don't use a rod over 5/8" wide-rod must be less than offset if you are to use the adjustment screw to get the rest of the measurement by moving the driven sheave.
RON..
great info, thank you for taking the time to do that..much appreciated..
as i just mentioned in my other post, i asked my dealer to balance my wifes 06 700 clutch since i am replacing the spring and he told me there is NO reason to balance the clutch since it was done already by the factory when it was build...????????
i have ALWAYS trusted the main mechanic there at polaris, he is a great guy and knows his stuff, but then he said this and blew my mind..then he also said FNI intakes are garbage..yeh whatever..HA!!
great info, thank you for taking the time to do that..much appreciated..
as i just mentioned in my other post, i asked my dealer to balance my wifes 06 700 clutch since i am replacing the spring and he told me there is NO reason to balance the clutch since it was done already by the factory when it was build...????????
i have ALWAYS trusted the main mechanic there at polaris, he is a great guy and knows his stuff, but then he said this and blew my mind..then he also said FNI intakes are garbage..yeh whatever..HA!!
R
Ron
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Well he's sorta correct on the balance statement. Polaris uses a dual plane so just taking it apart to change springs won't make a lot of dif. But Polaris may not get them perfect and changing weights that have a + or - 1 gram tolerance changes balance again. On a 600 I wouldn't be as concerned as on a 900 that has a history of crank issues. The 06 700 is just a smaller bore of the 900 engine.
Awesome stuff Ron!! Carls is doing my clutch as we speak. Question, did your 09 come with the TSS-04 and are you floating your secondary?
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Ron
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I believe the TSS04 came along about 2006 replacing the TSS098. I think they come floating from the factory-or else Carl's did it during setup. Mine floats .030.
Might add that because the secondary floats it requires periodic grease-very light coat of lithium after cleaning clutch splines and shaft. Too much grease will end up on the clutch or belt.
Might add that because the secondary floats it requires periodic grease-very light coat of lithium after cleaning clutch splines and shaft. Too much grease will end up on the clutch or belt.
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PalousePoo
Well-known member
Ron, In reassembling my secondary, There is NO wide spline on the shaft that the roller unit slides onto. In fact, I can slide it on in any position. The roller unit has the wide spline. What do you make of this? A mistake in production? I'll get back to you later on that "sales agreement" on your 09. It looks like my lawyer will be in touch 
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Ron
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Ron, In reassembling my secondary, There is NO wide spline on the shaft that the roller unit slides onto. In fact, I can slide it on in any position. The roller unit has the wide spline. What do you make of this? A mistake in production? I'll get back to you later on that "sales agreement" on your 09. It looks like my lawyer will be in touch
John,
Actually all the splines are the same width, but two are joined together at the top & the roller assembly has a matching double wide space. The driven is balanced so I assume that's the main reason for the notch. Might be someone filed the spline to open up the two that were joined?
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PalousePoo
Well-known member
That's what baffles me, there are no signs of the splines on the driven shaft being filed on. I am worried about balance. I didn't notice this during dissassembly. John
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Ron
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Clutch Offset
Snow all melted so spent some more time with my clutch offset. I found an easier way to check offset with my straight aluminum rod. (It is 5/8" X 1/2") The method mentioned previously I measured outside rear driven to outside of alignment bar so I had to add the thickness of the bar. Flipping it to the 1/2" side I was able to measure it flush so that the adjustment to the driven width was the offset amount. The second measurement was within .001 of the first one, has to be a miracle the process isn't that accurate.
First step I used a clamp to pull the engine against the torque stop. The engine is cocked forward a little and seems to be straight when the engine is against the torque stop. Clearance on my engine to torque stop was set at .010.
Second step I kept adjusting the rear of the driven (using the tool for belt removal) until the rod was flush with the rear of the drivenand the drive clutch. This was farily simple although tight. Pushing the driven toward the machine, I slid the rod up and down until it was flush, then removed the driven.
Third I measured the width of the driven sheaves after step 2 above and again after removing the tool in the driven. The difference is the offset. The offset on mine was .689, probably too much offset, but I still haven't come up with the correct figure. I'm guessing that offset should still be .625 with float of .030 to .050.
I measured float by sliding the driven in and using a feeler gauge to check the slack between the clutch and the washer.
Snow all melted so spent some more time with my clutch offset. I found an easier way to check offset with my straight aluminum rod. (It is 5/8" X 1/2") The method mentioned previously I measured outside rear driven to outside of alignment bar so I had to add the thickness of the bar. Flipping it to the 1/2" side I was able to measure it flush so that the adjustment to the driven width was the offset amount. The second measurement was within .001 of the first one, has to be a miracle the process isn't that accurate.
First step I used a clamp to pull the engine against the torque stop. The engine is cocked forward a little and seems to be straight when the engine is against the torque stop. Clearance on my engine to torque stop was set at .010.
Second step I kept adjusting the rear of the driven (using the tool for belt removal) until the rod was flush with the rear of the drivenand the drive clutch. This was farily simple although tight. Pushing the driven toward the machine, I slid the rod up and down until it was flush, then removed the driven.
Third I measured the width of the driven sheaves after step 2 above and again after removing the tool in the driven. The difference is the offset. The offset on mine was .689, probably too much offset, but I still haven't come up with the correct figure. I'm guessing that offset should still be .625 with float of .030 to .050.
I measured float by sliding the driven in and using a feeler gauge to check the slack between the clutch and the washer.
Great info, Ron.
How do you recommend adjusting the motor twist? On my D7 it measures about 1/4" difference from the front of the secondary to the back. I posted a question on this a while back and was told to slot the motor mounts since there is no adjustment with the factory setup. Any particular way to go about this? I'm scared of screwing things up.
Thanks!
How do you recommend adjusting the motor twist? On my D7 it measures about 1/4" difference from the front of the secondary to the back. I posted a question on this a while back and was told to slot the motor mounts since there is no adjustment with the factory setup. Any particular way to go about this? I'm scared
of screwing things up.Thanks!
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Ron
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Great info, Ron.
How do you recommend adjusting the motor twist? On my D7 it measures about 1/4" difference from the front of the secondary to the back. I posted a question on this a while back and was told to slot the motor mounts since there is no adjustment with the factory setup. Any particular way to go about this? I'm scared
Thanks!
Please explain! Moving the motor won't affect the secondary.
Or are you saying you have 11 3/4" clutch center distance instead of 11.5"? It's easy to be off a little getting that measurement but if you are certain I would take it to the dealer and let them fix it under warranty. Slotting the motor mounts means pulling the engine-to do that there are some technical things involved.
Clutch Alignment
Great info and thanks a ton for sharing!!!!!
I have had some tell me that you can leave the secondary room to move back and forth on the jackshaft. so you have an 1/8 to a 1/4" movement back and forth then it can align itself to the primary - good, bad or just plain stupid?
Second question - anyone know someone near Ogden, UT that will balance drive clutches?
Thanks,
d
Great info and thanks a ton for sharing!!!!!
I have had some tell me that you can leave the secondary room to move back and forth on the jackshaft. so you have an 1/8 to a 1/4" movement back and forth then it can align itself to the primary - good, bad or just plain stupid?
Second question - anyone know someone near Ogden, UT that will balance drive clutches?
Thanks,
d
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Ron
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Thanks Mike,
If that's the case, I would check my torque stop (spec is .010 to .020) and then use a clamp to pull the engine against the torque stop before checking offset. My engine was cocked foreward about 1/8" leaving clutch center distance at about 11 5/8". Under load that becomes aboout 11.5". Before messing with the motor mounts make sure you have checked the center distance-that's the key.
I don't know how much that distorts at the driven but it could easily be an 1/8" to a 1/4". What is everyone else seeing? I have checked 7 or 8 and they have all been about the same.
mine is only out about a 1/16th... havent pulled it up on the stop yet under a load..(will check this week) .my stop is about .010-.011..thats using the factory alignment tool.....
Yeah, that's what I meant. Sorry for not being clear. I've got the SLP alignment tool, and the instructions don't say anything about sucking the engine back against the torque stop. (???) According to SLP-- http://www.startinglineproducts.com/instsheets/20-191.pdf , the distance from the bar to the outboard edge of the secondary should be 0.40" greater at the rear of the secondary than it is at the front. Mine is around 0.250" difference, way too much. I don't know, maybe I should just forget about it and ride, but I would really like to have it right.
yes tim I would want it right to or you will eat belts like crazy..I think ron is applying torque to put the motor on the stop to verify it is true and straight under load(which is where you want it when you are riding). I am sure you can use slp's specs to set it up ,but I would pull the motor onto the stop when you have it all done and verify the clutches are true and centered...
