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Plugged Exhaust Valves?

PLUGGING THE EXHAUST, the NEAT way!!!

I don't think a gasket would work. I think the pressure would tear it open at some point.

For the folks desiring a clean look:

1) Remove both exhaust valve assemblies and get them onto the workbench. Remove/drill out the hose barb fittings that are pressed into the exhaust valve housing.

2) Tap to 1/8" pipe thread, insert some 1/8" pipe flush recessed allen plugs (perhaps blue anodized Earl's fittings:cool:) with a bit of teflon onto the threads.

3) If the sled ever needed to be returned to "emmission compliant' status, the plugs could be removed and 1/8" pipe to 1/4" slip on brass barb fittings could be installed.;)

Hope this helps.




Mandic,
1) No worries on the 600 exhaust valve springs, not a slam, just trying to get all the facts out there so the folks can make their own decision on which combo best suits them. :face-icon-small-hap
2) Agree with you on the "stock appearance' in case you had to run your sled in for warranty out on the trail, and the dealer is "inflexible"
3) Agree with you on minimizing volume,(re:hose length) probably doesn't matter much but it certainly can't help either.
 
What do you think the actual exhaust pressure really is? It doesnt feel likemuch while the sled is running. I am wondering if the little caps I got at autozone will hold up. I am also going to try making a gasket that does not have the holes. One benifet for me is to keep all the oil out of the PV assembly
 
Plug & clamp so it will last

What do you think the actual exhaust pressure really is? It doesnt feel likemuch while the sled is running. I am wondering if the little caps I got at autozone will hold up. I am also going to try making a gasket that does not have the holes. One benifet for me is to keep all the oil out of the PV assembly


Personally, I wouldn't trust the caps as I fear the combination of heat and pressure will eventually cause them to come off, and as fate usually has it, it'll happen late @ night, lost out on the trail, minus 15 for temps, and the batteries in your flashlight are dead.:mad:

Either plug 'em at the "T" further away from the heat and a larger clamping area, I previously recommended a 2" long 5/16" stud into a 1/4" hose for that interference fit, and at least 1" of clamping area, or do the drill, tap, pipe plug method a couple of posts above.:face-icon-small-hap

Just my humble opinion:cool:
 
Polaris has quite a few options, but since I can't unlock the file to post it I will just give you the popular ones. Springs are measured by Load/lbs @ 1" and Load/lbs @ .630". All the part #'s begin with 7041704-
-1 Blue 4 6
-2 Orange 5.5 8.3
-3 Pink 4.7 7.1
-4 Purple 3.1 4.7
-5 Yellow 2.4 3.6
-6 White 1.6 2.8

My memory is starting to come back to me with all this discussion. :p The older 800 Pink spring worked good from 3-6000ft I believe and the yellow was for above that. However, keep in mind these are not the same motors. Let's keep each other posted on the results. I will be starting with the Pink spring in mine.
Thanks much for the spring info.
Based on your spring load/lbs info I will install "pink" springs. As it appears that the stock "purple" springs would allow the exhaust valves to open too soon with out solenoid control.

I will reply back after a few rides, most likely mid Dec?
Thanks again; Rich
 
Doing some more thinking on this. :eek: yeah yeah it hurts me too :D I remember the yellow spring in the older BB was for guys running extreme high altitude. I believe the pressure was not sufficient to completely open the valves.

What if that was what was causing some of the issues with the new 800? Quite a few people were having issues getting these things to turn enough rpm even with different gearing and clutching. I don't see how the solenoid would prevent this from happening. The orange spring is stiffer than the old pink! If the solenoid only controls when the valves open, then the final spring rate controls at what point they can open all the way. They are still in the same boat, if the exhaust pressure can't over come the spring pressure the valve can't open all the way.

Just a thought, what do you think?
 
Wasn't able to try this on my D8, as we were going to take a ride before doing the mod, then do it, and go out again to test head to head again, bu my motor went on me before I was able to test it with the VES blocke off, and pink springs, so we installed my springs in a buddies 09 D8, plugged his hoses at the the T, and went back out for a bit. Seemed snappier to me, you could feel the valves open a LOT sooner. No boging issues and RPM's seemed the same. This was at about 1450'
 
Fullmonte that was exactly my thinking, I will hopefully be trying some lighter springs tomorrow. I could not pull rpms all last year and so far this year it's the same story. I ride 5000-7000', so not really high up. I have to get it figured out, so I will be trying a bunch of different stuff, one thing at a time of course.
 
Anyone trying to get motor warranty work done or dealing with the new update I would recommend putting this back to stock so that way the dealer will have no out. It shouldn't change anything but don't give them ammo.
 
Anyone trying to get motor warranty work done or dealing with the new update I would recommend putting this back to stock so that way the dealer will have no out. It shouldn't change anything but don't give them ammo.

no kidding..alot of dealers wouldnt have a clue what it was plugged for........
 
Plugging for the stealth look

I would really love to see some pics of all your handy work in plugging these lines. thanks

For those desiring the "STEALTH" look for warranty purposes.;)

Remove the "T", and pack it with silicone/RTV, and let dry overnight.:face-icon-small-hap

Reassemble the next day.

Looks just like stock!:cool:
 
So, this is interesting. I went and pulled my springs today and unless I'm going color blind my orange springs were very pink. So, my 08 D8 came with pink springs already. Of course I have another set of pink ones coming since the Polaris microfiche isn't quite right. Bummer. :rolleyes:
Future designs should include a way for the oil to get out of the diaphragm area. Mine was a mess in there, but I would think this also changes the internal volume. I never had any leaking out of my solenoid hose so I was really surprised to find a bunch in the valve diaphragm.
 
So, this is interesting. I went and pulled my springs today and unless I'm going color blind my orange springs were very pink. So, my 08 D8 came with pink springs already. Of course I have another set of pink ones coming since the Polaris microfiche isn't quite right. Bummer. :rolleyes:
Future designs should include a way for the oil to get out of the diaphragm area. Mine was a mess in there, but I would think this also changes the internal volume. I never had any leaking out of my solenoid hose so I was really surprised to find a bunch in the valve diaphragm.

monte, if I remember right they changed the orange springs for pink when they did the 09 updates....
 
Adjustable Exhaust Valves

I'm looking into adapting the adjustable exhaust valves as used on the 2001 XC 600 onto the current exhaust valves.

Does anyone remember those adjustable exhaust valves with the blue centers, could be rotated with a quarter or a regular screwdriver, owner's manual stated turn them in for more bottom end, turn out (loosen) for increased top end.;)

Has anyont tried this, taking the complete exhaust valve assemblies from the 2001's and tried them on a newer sled????

Just a thought, would be helpful for "fine tuning":cool:
 
monte, if I remember right they changed the orange springs for pink when they did the 09 updates....

I found that out from a dealer five hours away from me over the weekend. He said they should have already changed my springs to pink. But mine were still orange. Never heard a word about this from my own dealer. O and he said having the holes blocked is not a warranty issue at all. Not for him anyway.
 
monte, if I remember right they changed the orange springs for pink when they did the 09 updates....

I've never had mine updated though. :confused: Other than initial setup I'm the only one to ever turn a wrench on that sled. OK, Skinz has turned a few too. :p
Oh well, I just wanted to fyi everyone. It is what I wanted to put in anyway so I'll just plug and go. :D
Now my mind is turning with some kind of check valve to get the oil out of there. Man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Is it time to ride yet?
 
So with all the posts on spring colors, if I understand right I should be running pink on my 08 and 09 Dragon 8 if running at elevation.
 
monte, if I remember right they changed the orange springs for pink when they did the 09 updates....
The kits I have been getting have had orange springs,most sleds that I have updated have orange springs already but they still get the new ones, 1 09 800 rmk had pink so it might be a altitude thing from poo, We are 4000-8000
 
I haven't read the whole thread but will chime in anyway. Here's my understanding of how the EV's work in the Cleanfire's:

A. There are only two options for the EV's- 1. Closed with lower exhaust port timing for more bottom end. 2. Open with higher exhaust port timing for more top end.
B. The exhaust springs control the transition from closed to open. You can test that opening RPM on the trail by easing R's up gradually...you will feel a surge when the EV's open.
C. The solenoid opens to let the EV's return to open sooner. Without the solenoid & with the lines plugged you have EV's that function like they did on the Edge 6, 7 & 8's, etc. The advantage of the sloenoid is that the engine gains bottom end quicker when you let off the throttle since the solenoid releases pressure and the valves open instantly. Without the solenoid the valves stay open longer because of latent engine pressure. When does all this matter? example-climbing a hill, go over a log, let off the trigger, back on the trigger. The valves will open in this scenario to get more bottom end power, wouldn't open with the solenoid removed because it takes longer than that to bleed off cylinder pressure.
D. The solenoid drain line lets some excess oil drain, with the solenoid removed you will get more goo build up. Not a big deal, it's there to some extent and the EV's should be cleaned at least every 400-500 miles IMO.
Edit: I fail to see how plugging the valves will open the valves sooner, the solenoid is closed unless R's and TPS dictates that the solenoid should open letting the valves close. There seems to be some misinformation floating around.
 
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EV solenoid

So that damn thing is there for a reason! Thanks for explaining the purpose of the solenoid tied to our EV's. If plugging it is going to effect performance I'm sure not gonna plug it but,
lets hear some more input on this topic. Still not enough snow over here to test plugged or not.
Beef
 
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